OS* 


&** 


REESE   LIBRARY 


UNIVERSITY^  OF   CALIFORNIA. 

Received 
Accessions  No./(/</ty0        'Shelf  No. 


•3O 


AMERICAN 


GRAPE    GROWING 


AND 


WINE   MAKING. 


BY 

GEOKGE    HUSMANN, 

OF  TALCOA  VINEYABDS,  1TAPA,  CAI*. 

NEW  AND  ENLARGED   EDITION. 

WITH  SEVERAL  ADDED  CHAPTERS  ON  THE  GRAPE 
INDUSTRIES  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

ILLUSTRATED. 


NEW    YORK: 

OKANGE    JUDD    COMPANY, 

751   BKO  AD  WA  Y. 
1883. 


IV  PREFACE. 

unknown,  the  rainless  summers,  when  no  showers  are 
expected  from  May  until  September,  allow  nearly  all  of 
the  crop  to  ripen  every  year.  Even  in  the  unusually  cool 
summer  of  1882,  with  early  and  abundant  rains  in  Sep- 
tember, the  crops  ripened  sufficiently  to  make  a  fair  wine, 
perhaps  only  the  more  agreeable  because  not  too  heavy. 
These  favorable  climatic  conditions  simplify  the  culture 
and  training  of  the  vine,  the  gathering  of  the  fruit,  and 
the  operations  in  wine  making.  Gallizing  and  Petioliz- 
ing  became  superfluous,  and  would  not  even  pay,  as 
grape  juice  is  cheaper  than  sugar  and  water  would  be. 
In  this  climate  it  becomes  possible  that  one  man  can  own 
and  superintend  hundreds  of  acres  of  vineyard,  and  that 
a  fair  wholesale  price  for  the  wine,  when  three  months 
old,  is  from  twenty  to  thirty  cents  per  gallon.  At  this 
rate  it  pays  the  producer  well,  as  it  costs  him  on  the 
average  about  twenty  dollars  per  annum  per  acre  to  cul- 
tivate the  grapes  and  make  the  wine  ;  and  five  hundred 
gallons  per  acre  is  considered  an  average  yield.  That, 
under  all  these  favorable  circumstances,  California  must 
become  the  first  grape-growing  State  in  the  Union,  seems 
to  be  but  natural,  especially  when  we  consider  also  the 
raisin  industry,  perhaps  still  more  profitable,  and  the 
extended  shipments  of  table  grapes  to  the  Eastern  States, 
and  other  sources  of  profit. 

But,  easy  as  are  grape  culture  and  wine  making  here, 
there  is  a  vast  field  for  improvement ;  and  nowhere  else 
perhaps  are  rational  knowledge  and  proper  skill  more 
needed.  The  very  ease  of  the  pursuit,  which  allowed 
any  one,  even  with  the  simplest  culture  and  the  most 
common  treatment,  to  raise  a  fair  crop  and  make  a  drink- 
able wine,  has  led  many,  in  fact  a  large  majority,  to  em- 
bark in  grape  growing  who  knew  but  little  about  it,  and 
did  not  try  to  learn  more.  They  followed  the  pursuit 
negligently  and  mechanically,  without  proper  study  and 
observation.  The  results  were,  the  culture  of  varieties 


PREFACE.  V 

which  produced  the  most,  without  regard  to  quality, 
and  a  great  amount  of  inferior  wines  were  made  from 
them.  These  poor  wines,  of  course,  obscured  the  merits 
of  the  really  fine  wines,  and  brought  them  into  bad 
repute.  For  a  number  of  years  California  wines  were  al- 
most unsalable,  even  at  twelve  or  fifteen  cents  per  gallon. 
But  this  state  of  affairs  has  changed  for  the  better,  and 
the  improvement  still  continues.  The  old  Mission  grape, 
which  was  almost  the  only  variety  cultivated  at  first,  and 
which  gives  a  very  heady  and  heavy  wine,  but  of  little 
fineness  and  delicacy,  is  generally  cast  aside  for  better 
varieties,  of  which  nearly  all  the  new  plantings  have,  been 
made.  Wines  are  now  beginning  to  be  appreciated  ac- 
cording to  their  merits,  the  habits  of  the  choicer  varieties 
of  the  grape  are  studied  more,  and  their  pruning  and  treat- 
ment changed  accordingly.  Dealers  begin  to  discriminate 
in  their  purchases  between  cellars  filled  with  ordinary 
wines  and  those  of  superior  grades;  they  pay  higher  prices 
for  the  latter,  and  are  reluctant  to  purchase  the  former 
at  any  price.  That  this  change  is  as  inevitable  as  it  is 
desirable,  must  become  clear  to  every  one  whose  judgment 
is  unbiased.  It  is  the  "old,  old  story,"  which  repeats 
itself  in  every  branch  of  industry,  that  only  those  whose 
motto  is,  "Excelsior,"  who  work  with  brain  as  well  as 
hand  to  achieve  the  best,  will  eventually  win  the  day. 
California  has  wines  already,  which  can  take  their  place 
with  the  choicest  productions  of  the  Rhine,  France,  and 
Burgundy,  and  we  may  safely  claim  for  our  wines,  that 
a  better  article  can  be  bought  in  San  Francisco  to-day, 
from  some  of  our  leading  firms,  at  from  six  to  nine  dollars 
per  case,  than  can  be  purchased  in  St.  Louis  or  New  York, 
of  foreign  importation,  at  from  fifteen  to  twenty-four 
dollars  per  case.  That  these  wines  are  often  shipped  to 
the  East  in  bulk,  and  then  sold  under  French  and  German 
labels,  detracts  nothing  from  their  merits ;  that  this  is 
even  done  in  San  Francisco,  is  indeed  to  be  deplored.  But 


TI  PREFACE. 

this  will  change;  I  hope  to  yet  see  the  day  in  which  Cali- 
fornia may  proudly  claim  a  place  in  the  front  rank  in  the 
production  of  fine  wines,  and  when  they  will  boldly  sail 
under  their  true  colors. 

To  accomplish  this  change,  we  need  a  closer  study  of 
the  best  varieties  for  each  location,  and  rational  treatment 
according  to  their  habits  ;  we  need  more  skill  in  the  mak- 
ing and  handling  of  wines  ;  more  especially  do  we  require 
a  free  and  unshakled  expression  and  interchange  of  ex- 
perience and  opinions  among  grape  growers.  The  State 
Viticultural  Commission,  created  by  act  of  Legislature 
approved  in  April,  1880,  with  an  annual  appropriation  of 
ten  thousand  dollars,  have  done  a  great  deal  to  spread 
information,  and  to  gather  it.  The  first  Convention  of 
grape  growers,  held  in  Dashaway  Hall,  San  Francisco, 
in  September,  1883,  brought  together  perhaps  the  largest 
and  finest  exhibition  of  grapes  and  wines  ever  held  in  the 
State,  and  elicited  much  valuable  information.  But  un- 
fortunately it  was  also  characterized  by  a  dictatorial  and 
arbitrary  spirit,  which  did  not  allow  as  free  and  liberal 
an  interchange  of  experience  as  could  be  wished,  and  a 
great  deal  of  time  was  consumed  in  learned  essays  and 
impracticable  theories,  which  could  have  been  more  profit- 
ably devoted  to  experience  from  practical  men,  who  were 
in  a  measure  shut  out  from  the  discussions,  if  their  views 
did  not  happen  to  coincide  with  those  of  the  ruling  spirits. 
Let  us  hope  that  a  more  liberal  spirit  may  prevail  in  the 
future,  and  that  the  next  convention  will  give  us  a  full 
and  free  expression  of  the  views  of  all  practical  men. 

We  need  close  attention  to  insect  pests,  and  especially 
to  the  Phylloxera,  which  has  already  made  serious  inroads 
in  many  sections  of  the  State,  and  may  become  as  de- 
structive to  our  vineyards  in  the  near  future,  as  it  has 
already  been  in  France.  We  want  to  prevent  its  ravages, 
not  by  costly  insecticides,  or  by  quarantine,  but  by  the 
only  rational  method,  the  planting  of  vines  able  to  resist 


PREFACE.  VII 

it;  this  will  establish  our  vineyards  on  a  permanent  basis. 

To  do  my  share  in  this  great  work,  to  contribute  my 
mite  to  the  fund  of  general  knowledge,  has  been  the  aim 
of  the  additional  pages,  devoted  mainly  to  grape  culture 
and  wine  making  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  It  is  true  that  my 
experience  here  is  but  limited,  but  I  have  observed  closely, 
and  have  quoted  the  experience  of  others  wherever  I  could 
obtain  it.  I  do  not  claim  to  be  an  authority,  nor  do  I 
acknowledge  any.  We  are  all  workers  in  a  common  cause, 
liable  to  err,  but  also  gathering  experience  as  we  labor, 
which  may  be  of  service  to  others,  if  imparted.  Let  me 
hope,  that  my  brother  vintners  will  receive  this  new  edi- 
tion as  kindly  as  the  former  one. 

In  this,  as  in  the  first  edition,  it  has  been  my  object  to 
be  a  guide  to  the  beginner,  the  small  producer  and  wine 
maker,  rather  than  to  those  who  already  own  establish- 
ments large  enough  to  employ  skilled  labor,  and  who,  with 
large  capital,  are  able  to  bear  reverses  and  mistakes  with 
equanimity.  But  the  beginner  who  works  from  hand  to 
mouth,  who  must  struggle  on  for  several  years  before  he 
can  realize  enough  to  make  a  comfortable  living,  can  not 
afford  to  make  serious  mistakes,  either  in  the  varieties  he 
plants,  or  in  the  wines  he  makes  from  them.  If  such  find 
anything  in  the  pages  of  this  little  book  which  is  useful 
to  them,  which  will  cheer  their  labors  and  further  them, 
making  them  more  easy  and  profitable,  I  shall  have  at- 
tained my  object  in  revising  it.  What  we  all  need,  is 
practical  and  useful  information,  more  than  elaborate, 
impractical  theories.  This  I  have  tried  to  give,  based 
upon  my  own  experience,  and  that  of  other  practical 
vintners  from  whom  I  have  been  anxious  to  learn,  fully 
realizing  that  I  was  entering  upon  a  new  field,  where  I 
had  to  learn  from  those  who  preceded  me. 

GEORGE 
Talcoa  Vineyards,  Napa,  Gal;  Nov.  9,  1883. 


CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 
INTRODUCTION' v 

CHAPTER     I.— The  Classification  of  Grapes 11 

"  II.— Propagation  of  the  Vine— By  Seeds  16 

"  III.— Propagation  by  Cuttings  in  the  Open  Air 19 

"  IV.-  Propagating  the  Vine  by  Layers 21 

"  V.— Graf  ting  the  Vine 22 

"  VI.— The  Vineyard  -Locati on,  Aspect,  and  Soil 28 

"  VH.— Preparing  the  Soil 30 

"  VIII.— What  Grapes  to  Plant— Choice  of  Varieties 31 

"  IX.— Labrusca  Class,  With  their  Hybrids 35 

"  X.— The  ^Estivalis  Class— For  General  Cultivation 54 

"  XL— The  ^Estivalis  Class— Varieties  Promising  Well 61 

"  XII.— Cordifolia  Class  (or  riparia  according  to  Engelmann) . .  65 

"  XIIL— The  Cordifolia  Class— Varieties  Promising  Well 70 

"  XIV.— Varieties  Difficult  to  Classify,  etc 77 

"  XV.-  Varieties  for  Different  Localities 79 

"  XVI.— Planting  the  Vine 81 

"  XVII.— Treatment  of  the  Vine  the  First  Summer 84 

"  XVIII.— Treatment  of  the  Vine  the  Second  Summer 87 

"  XIX.  -  Treatment  of  the  Vine  the  Third  Summer 91 

"  XX.— Treatment  of  the  Vine  the  Fourth  Summer 96 

"  XXL— Training  the  Vine  on  Arbors  and  Walls 98 

"  XXIL— Other  Methods  of  Training 99 

"          XXIIL— Diseases  of  the  Vine 102 

"  XXIV.— Insects  Injurious  to  the  Grape 105 

"  XXV.    Frosts-Winter  Protection  115 

"  XXVL— Girdling,  Thinning,  and  Miscellaneous  Matters 117 

"          XXVIL— Gathering  and  Marketing  the  Fruit 121 

"        XXVIII. — Grape  Growing  in  Southern  Ohio 127 

XXIX.— Grape  Culture  and  Wine  Making  in  Ohio 135 

"  XXX.— Grape  Culture  at  Keiley's  Island,  Ohio 138 

"  XXXI. —Grape  Growing,  etc.,  on  Lake  Kenka,  N.  Y 142 

"         XXXIL— Grape  Growing  in  Southern  Texas  145 

"        XXXIII. — The  Grapes  of  Southern  Texas 151 

"        XXXIV.— The  Vineyard  in  Texas     154 

"          XXXV.--Grape-Growing  in  Western  Texas 159 

XXXVI.— The  Culture  of  the  Grape  in  California 162 

"      XXXVII.— Viticulture  in  Sonoma  Valley,  California 166 

"     XXXVIII. —Viticulture  in  Napu  Co.,  California 169 

"        XXXIX.— Grape  Culture  in  Maryland— Cashin's  Trellises 174 

"  XL.— Grape  Culture  in  Missouri 180 

"  XLI.  -Grape  Culture  Near  Chattanooga,  Tennessee 182 

XLIL— White  Elk  Vineyards.  Iowa 184 

"  XLIIL— The  Phylloxera  Problem 186 

"  XLIV.— Egg  Harbor  Wines.— Early  Winter  Grape.— Cost  of  a 

Vineyard 190 

"      ^^-XLV.-Wine  Making 195 

XLVI.— Dr.  Gall's  and  Petioles  Methods  of  Wine  Making 213 

"          XL VII. -Wine  Making  Rendered  Easy— Conclusion 236 

—Grapes  and  Wine  in  California 240 

VIII 


PART   I. 


THE    CULTURE   OF   AMERICAN   GRAPES 
AND   VARIETIES. 


(9) 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  CLASSIFICATION  OF  GRAPES. 

It  is  only  within  comparatively  few  years  that  much 
attention  has  been  given  to  the  parentage  of  our  culti- 
vated varieties  of  native  grapes,  as  it  was  formerly  thought 
to  be  of  little  or  no  importance  whether  a  variety  was 
derived  from  one  or  another  of  the  few  native  species. 
More  recent  experience  has  shown  that  the  varieties  of  a 
species,  however  widely  they  may  differ  from  one  another 
in  some  respects,  agree  in  other  points,  and  however  far 
the  varieties  may  be  removed  from  the  native  type,  they 
retain  certain  characters  which  indicate  a  common  par- 
entage. On  the  other  hand,  if  we  know  from  which 
species  a  variety  is  derived,  we  can,  with  a  fair  degree  of 
certainty,  predict  its  general  behavior  in  cultivation,  and 
in  a  great  degree  its  value.  This  is  so  generally  true  that 
the  experienced  viticulturists  of  the  present  day  regard 
the  origin  or  parentage  of  the  cultivated  varieties  as  a 
matter  of  the  first  importance".  It  is  not  in  the  character 
of  the  fruit  alone  that  our  varieties  differ,  as  they  are 
derived  from  one  or  another  of  the  native  species,  but  the 
foliage,  the  wood,  the  tendrils,  the  roots,  and  other  parts 
of  the  vine  retain  their  peculiarities  ;  and  hardiness  not 
only  as  regards  the  ability  to  endure  cold  uninjured,  but 
the  ability  to  resist  the  attacks  of  both  parasitic  plants 
and  insects,  or  whatever  else  affects  the  health  of  the  plant 
is  now  known  to  be  transmitted  with  as  much  certainty, 
if  not,  indeed,  more  surely,  than  are  the  form  and  quality 
of  the  fruit. 

In  classifying  the  numerous  varieties  now  on  the  lists, 
they  are  grouped  according  to  the  species  of  Vitis  (the 
11 


12  AMERICAN"   GRAPE   GROWING 

botanical  name  of  the  grape  genus),  from  which  they  are 
known  to  be,  or  supposed  to  be,  derived,  and  the  name 
of  the  species  is  given  to  the  class.  Thus,  when  a  variety 
is  spoken  of  as  "belonging  to  the  cestivalis  class,"  it  is 
to  be  understood  that  it  descended  from,  or  is  derived 
from,  the  native  species  of  grape  called  by  botanists,  Vitis 
cestivalis.  So,  when  in  speaking  of  a  variety  we,  for  the 
sake  of  brevity,  say  "it  is  an  cestivalis"  it  is  equivalent 
to  saying  that  it  belongs  to  the  class  of  varieties  derived 
from  the  species  of  that  name. 

All  of  the  European  grapes  are  regarded  as  having  their 
origin  in  Vitis  vinifera  of  the  old  world,  a  species  which, 
though  it  has  been  cultivated  from  the  earliest  recorded 
time,  is  nowhere  known  in  the  wild  state.  The  varieties 
of  this,  while  generally  unsuccessful  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  succeed  admirably  in  the  climate  of  the  Pacific 
Coast,  and,  until  very  recently,  have  been  cultivated  there 
to  the  exclusion  of  all  others.  It  is  of  interest  to  our 
grape-growers  principally  on  account  of  the  hybrids 
which  have  been  produced  between  it  and  our  own  na- 
tive grapes.  The  varieties  of  the  European  grape  differ 
from  ours  in  their  leaves,  which  are  "  smoothish,"  and, 
when  young,  shining ;  they  are  more  or  less  deeply 
5  to  7-lobed,  the  lobes  pointed  and  sharply  toothed  ;  the 
flesh  of  the  berry  adheres  to  the  skin,  while  the  seeds 
have  a  narrow  and  usually  proportionately  longer  beak 
than  in  any  of  the  native  varieties. 

There  are  throughout  North  America,  eight  or  nine 
species  admitted  by  botanists  as  distinct,  four  only  of 
which  have  yielded  varieties  of  cultivation  ;  these  are  : 

1.  Vitis  Labrusca,  The  Northern  Eox  Grape. 

2.  Vitis  cestivalis,  The  Summer  Grape. 

3.  Vitis  cordifolia,  or )  The  Winter  or  Frost  Grape,  or 

V.  riparia,          f      The  Riverside  Grape. 

4.  Vitis  vulpina,  The  Southern  Fox  Grape. 


AKD   WINE   HAIIIKG.  13 

Without  attempting  elaborate  botanical  descriptions, 
we  give  here  a  few  brief  popular  notes  oil  each  species  ; 
the  varieties  derived  from  them  will  be  found  grouped 
together  in  their  proper  places.  It  may  be  remarked 
here  that  the  species  vary  to  a  great  extent  in  their  wild 
condition,  and  it  is  often  the  case  that  those  most  famil- 
iar with  grapes  find  it  very  difficult  to  decide  to  which 
species  to  refer  a  given  specimen.  That  most  thorough 
botanist  and  keen  observer,  Doct.  George  Engelmann, 
of  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  found  that  the  seeds  give,  in  most 
cases,  more  constant  marks  by  which  to  distinguish  the 
species,  than  could  be  found  elsewhere.  Those  who  are 
interested  in  the  botanical  aspects  of  grape  culture  are 
referred  to  an  illustrated  article  prepared  by  him  for  the 
"  Bushberg  Catalogue,"  published  by  Bush  &  Son  & 
Meissner,  Bushberg,  Mo. 

1.  VITIS   LABRUSCA,  Linn. — The  specific  name,  La- 
brusca,  is  the  ancient  Latin  one  for  a  wild  vine.     This 
species,  the   well  known  Wild,  or  Fox  Grape,  extends 
from  Canada  to  the  Gulf,  but  is  rarely  found  in  the 
Valley  of  the  Mississippi.     It  is  common  in  moist  woods 
or  thickets,  and  sometimes  reaches  the  tops  of  the  high- 
est trees.     The  leaves  are  large  and  thick,  often  entire, 
and  coated  on  the  underside  with  a  thick,  whitish,  or 
rusty  wool ;  berries  large,  dark-purple,  or  amber-colored, 
with  a  tough  pulp  and  a  strong,  "foxy,"  or  musky  odor; 
the  most  common  grape  of  the  Northern  woods,  and  pre- 
sents a  great  variety  in  the  wild  state  ;  has  given  rise  to 
an  important  series  of  table  grapes,  of  which  the  best 
known  are  the  Concord,  and  several  useful  hybrids. 

2.  VITIS   2ESTIVALIS,  Michaux.— The   term   Summer 
Grape  is  the  equivalent  of    the   specific    name.     This 
has  large   leaves,   which  are  clothed  on  the  underside 
with  loose  cottony  or  woolly  down,  which  is  bright  red  or 
rusty,  "  smoothish"  when  old  ;  the  clusters  slender,  com- 


14  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

pact,  dark-blue  or  black,  with  a  bloom.  It  is  the  latest 
flowering  of  all  the  Northern  species  ;  its  range  is  more 
Southern  and  Western  than  the  preceding,  and  it  reaches 
great  perfection  in  Missouri,  Kansas,  Arkansas,  and  In- 
dian Territory.  Norton's  Virginia  and  Herbemont  are 
prominent  among  the  varieties,  as  will  be  seen  at  the 
proper  place,  in  the  "  cestivalis  class." 

3.  VITIS  CORDIFOLIA,  Michaux ;  and  VITIS  RIPARIA, 
Michaux. — Michaux  described  two  species  of  the  Winter 
or  Frost  Grape,  one  as  V.  cordifolia  (the  heart-shaped 
leaved),  and  the  other  as  V.  riparia  (of  the  river  banks). 
The  two  were  kept  distinct  by  Torrey  &  Gray  in  the 
"  Flora  of  North  America"  (1838).  In  the  "*Flora  of 
the  State  of  New  York"  (1843),  Doct.  Torrey  gives  both 
species,  and  says  of  V.  riparia:  "This  species  is  most 
readily  distinguished  from  the  preceding  (  V.  cordifolia)) 
with  which  it  is  often  confounded,  by  its  incisely  serrate 
leaves."  Doct.  Gray  in  his  "Manual  of  the  Botany  of 
the  Northern  States "  (1856),  unites  the  two  under  V. 
cordifolia,  Michaux,  and  says  :  (t  Var.  riparia  has  the 
leaves  broader  and  cut-lobed."  (V.  riparia,  Michx). 
Doct.  Chapman  in  his  "Flora  of  the  Southern  U.  S." 
(1860),  follows  the  same  arrangement  as  Gray.  Later, 
Doct.  Engelmann  in  Riley's  "  Report  on  the  Insects  of 
Missouri"  (1874),  and  in  the  "Bushberg  Catalogue," 
again  restores  Michaux's  arrangement,  and  gives  both 
Vitis  cordifolia  and  V.  riparia.  Those  who  are  aware 
of  the  acuteness  he  brings  to  the  investigation  of  obscure 
subjects,  and  the  high  esteem  in  which  he  is  held  in  the 
botanical  world,  will  attach  great  importance  to  Doct. 
Engelmann's  views. 

According  to  him,  besides  the  difference  in  the  leaves, 
the  fruit  of  V.  cordifolia  is  black,  without  a  bloom,  ripens 
late,  and  has  a  "  strong  and  very  fetid  aromatic  taste, 
which  unfits  it  for  making  into  preserves,  or  for  pressing 
wine."  In  V.  riparia  lie  says  that  the  berries  are  usually 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  15 

larger  than  in  the  last,  mostly  with  a  bloom,  ripens  much 
earlier,  and  is  much  pleasanter.  While  no  cultivated 
varieties  of  V.  cordifolia  are  known,  V.  riparia  gives 
several,  the  best  known  of  which  is  Clinton.  In  a  strict 
botanical  classification  it  might  be  necessary  to  keep 
these  two  species  distinct,  but  in  a  viticultural  arrange- 
ment, where  the  cordifolia  class  has  become  established 
by  usage,  it  seems  hardly  worth  while  to  insist  upon  call- 
ing it  the  "riparia  class."  As  the  V.  cordifolia,  as  un- 
derstood by  Engelmann,  affords  no  cultivated  varieties, 
no  confusion  is  likely  to  result  from  the  use  of  the  term 
cordifolia,  to  designate  that  class  of  grapes  of  which  the 
Clinton  and  Taylor  are  best  known,  and  which  the  Elvira 
promises  to  bring  into  greater  prominence  than  it  has 
heretofore  enjoyed.  The  remaining  species  : 

4.  VITIS  VULPINA,  Linnaeus  ("the  foxy"),  has  been 
called  F.  rotundifolia  (the  "round-leaved")  by  some 
later  authors.  It  is  not  found  north  of  Maryland,  and 
extends  into  Florida.  It  rambles  to  a  great  distance,  has 
a  close,  smooth  bark  like  a  beech  tree,  heart-shaped 
leaves,  shining  on  both  surfaces  ;  the  berries,  one-half  to 
three-fourths  inch  in  diameter,  are  very  few  in  a  cluster, 
dropping  as  soon  as  ripe,  bluish-black  (with  light-col- 
ored varieties),  with  a  very  thick  and  leathery  skin  and 
a  strong  and  peculiar  flavor.  This  is  the  parent  of  the 
much  talked  of  Scuppernong,  Mish,  and  others.  It  is 
called  Bullace,  and  also  Muscadine. 

The  important  hybrids  are  mentioned  under  the  class 
to  which  the  native  parent  belongs.  The  term  hybrid  is 
properly  used  only  where  the  variety  results  from  the 
union  of  two  other  varieties  from  distinct  species ;  the* 
Catawba  and  Clinton,  or  the  Concord  and  Black  Prince, 
by  their  union,  would  in  each  case  produce  a  hybrid  ;  an 
Ives  fertilized  by  the  pollen  of  Martha,  would  produce, 
not  a  true  hybrid,  but  merely  a  cross,  as  both  varieties 
belong  to  the  same  species,  the  Labrusca. 


16  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

CHAPTER    II. 

PROPAGATION  OF  THE  VINES.— BY  SEEDS. 

While  the  raising  of  grape  vines  from  the  seed  is  more 
a  labor  of  love,  than  of  actual  profit,  yet  its  influence  on 
grape  culture  generally  has  been  so  great,  and  we  are 
already  indebted  so  largely  to  its  zealous  followers,  that 
it  cannot  be  entirely  omitted  in  a  work  like  this.  We 
can  not  gain  further  perfection  in  varieties  without  this, 
and  the  success  which  has  already  attended  the  labors 
of  Rogers,  Wylie,  Campbell,  Ricketts,  Muench,  Miller, 
Weydemeier,  Langendoerfer,  and  especially  Mr.  Jacob 
Rommel,  in  giving  to  us  the  Elvira,  and  other  varieties 
still  more  promising,  affords  hopes  of  even  more  impor- 
tant results. 

To  begin  then  at  the  beginning  :  choose  your  seed  from 
a  good  stock.  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  only  the 
CBstii)alis  and  cordifolia  (or  riparia,  as  Engelmann  has 
it)  species  will  give  us  the  true  wine  grapes  of  the  country, 
and  if  we  can  increase  their  size  somewhat,  they  will  also 
be  the  best  table  grapes.  We  have  them  already  as  large 
as  the  Catawba,  and  they  are  more  juicy,  of  finer  flavor, 
and  less  pulpy  than  the  varieties  from  the  Labrusca 
species,  while  they  are  much  more  healthy  and  hardy. 
Remember  that  we  have  already  too  many  varieties,  and 
that  every  new  one  we  add  should  have  some  decided 
merit  over  any  of  the  old  varieties,  or  else  be  discarded  at 
once. 

Choose  the  best  berries  and  the  most  perfect  bunches, 
from  which  to  take  the  seed,  and  either  sow  in  autumn, 
and  cover,  or  keep  them  over  winter,  mixing  the  seeds 
with  moist  sand,  when  separated  from  the  pulp,  to  insure 
ready  germination.  Sow  early  in  spring,  in  well  pulver- 
ized clay  soil,  in  drills  one  foot  apart,  and  drop  the  seeds 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  17 

about  an  inch  apart  in  the  rows,  covering  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  deep,  with  finely  pulverized  soil. 
When  the  young  plants  appear,  keep  them  clean  and  well 
cultivated  through  the  summer;  in  the  fall  take  them  up 
carefully,  and  put  in  well  drained  fine  soil,  so  as  to  preserve 
their  roots  in  the  most  perfect  condition.  It  will  be  well, 
during  the  summer,  to  look  over  them  frequently,  and  if 
any  of  them  show  disease  in  the  leaf,  pull  them  up  at 
once,  as  it  is  useless  to  save  such  as  are  feeble  and  un- 
healthy. It  may  also  be  well  to  shade  the  young  vines 
for  the  first  month  or  so,  to  prevent  the  sun  from  scald- 
ing them  while  yet  young  and  tender,  and  if  any  of  them 
grow  remarkably  strong,  give  them  small  sticks  for  sup- 
port. In  the  following  spring  they  may  be  transplanted 
to  their  permanent  location  in  the  vineyard  or  garden. 
The  ground  for  their  reception  should  be  moderately 
light  and  rich,  and  loosened  to  the  depth  of  at  least 
18  inches. 

Make  a  hole  about  8  inches  deep,  then  throw  in  soil 
so  as  to  raise  a  small  mound  in  the  center  of  the  hole, 
about  2  inches  high ;  shorten  the  top  of  the  young  vine 
to  about  6  inches,  and  then  place  it  on  the  mound, 
spreading  its  roots  well  in  all  directions;  fill  up  with  well 
pulverized  soil,  until  the  upper  eye  is  even  with  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground.  Then  press  the  soil  lightly,  place  a 
good  stake  about  4  feet  high  with  each  vine,  and  when  the 
buds  start,  allow  but  one  sprout  to  grow,  which  is  to  be. 
tied  neatly  to  the  stake.  The  vines  may  be  planted  in 
rows  6  feet  apart,  and  3  feet  apart  in  the  rows,  as 
many  of  them  will  prove  worthless,  and  have  to  be  dis- 
carded. Allow  all  the  laterals  to  grow  on  the  young  cane, 
as  this  will  make  it  stocky  and  short- jointed.  Cultivate 
well  and  frequently,  keeping  the  soil  loose  and  mellow. 

The  second  season  the  seedlings  will  generally  make 
from  3  to  4  feet  of  short- jointed  growth ;  in  the  fall 
of  that  year  they  should  be  cut  back  to  about  three 


18  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

buds,  and  have  the  ground  drawn  up  around  them  for 
protection  in  winter.  Should  any  of  them  look  very 
promising,  fruit  may  be  obtained  a  year  sooner  by  graft- 
ing the  wood  of  the  seedlings  upon  strong  vines.  Young 
vines  thus  grafted  will  generally  bear  the  next  season  (see 
"  Grafting/'  on  another  page).  Next  spring,  which  will 
be  their  third,  remove  the  covering,  and  when  the  young 
shoots  appear,  allow  only  tiuo  to  grow.  After  these  have 
grown  about  18  inches,  pinch  off  the  top  of  the  weakest 
of  the  two  shoots,  so  as  to  throw  the  growth  into  the 
strongest  shoot,  which  is  to  be  kept  neatly  tied  to  the 
stake  or  trellis,  treating  it  as  the  summer  before,  and 
allowing  all  the  laterals  to  grow.  At  the  end  of  this 
season's  growth  they  should  be  strong  enough  to  bear  the 
next  summer.  If  they  have  made  from  eight  to  ten  feet 
of  stocky  growth,  the  leading  cane  may  be  cut  back  to 
ten  or  twelve  eyes,  or  buds,  and  the  smaller  one  to  a 
spur  of  two  eyes.  If  the  vines  will  fruit  at  all,  they  will 
show  it  the  next  summer,  when  only  the  most  promising 
ones  should  be  kept,  and  the  barren  and  worthless  ones 
discarded.  Seedlings  have  this  peculiarity  :  both  the 
berry  and  bunch  will  increase  in  size  every  year  for  the 
first  three  or  four  years  ;  therefore,  if  the  quality  of  the 
fruit  is  only  good,  the  size  may  come  in  time.  The  fruit 
of  the  Elvira  (of  which  more  hereafter),  which  is  now 
about  as  large  in  bunch  and  berry  as  Catawba,  was  at  first 
not  more  than  half  its  present  size,  it  having  increased  in 
dimensions  every  year  for  the  last  eight  years. 


AND   WINE   MAKING, 


CHAPTER  III. 

PROPAGATION  BY  CUTTINGS  IN  THE  OPEN  AIR. 

The  easiest  and  most  simple  mode  of  propagating  the 
vine  is  by  cuttings  planted  in  the  open  ground;  it 
can  ^e  successfully  followed  with 
the  majority  of  the  Labrusca  and 
cordifolia  varieties,  and  a  few  of 
those  from  the  CBstivalis,  although 
the  latter  will  not  take  root 
readily,  and  had  better  be  propa- 
gated by  layering  and  grafting. 
The  most  general  method  is  the 
following  :  In  fall,  when  pruning 
the  vines,  choose  the  best  ripened 
wood  of  medium  size,  which  is 
better  than  either  the  very  large 
or  very  small,  and  cut  it  into 
lengths  of  from  9  to  12  inches, 
cutting  close  below  the  lower 
bud,  and  about  an  inch  above  the 
upper,  as  in  figure  1. 

Figure  2  shows  a  cutting  with 
part  of  the  old  wood  attached ; 
cuttings  of  this  kind  will  generally 
root  more  readily  than  the  other. 
These  cuttings  will  mostly  average 
three  to  four  buds  each  ;  tie  them 
in  convenient  bundles  of  100  to 
250  each,  taking  care  to  make 
their  lower  ends  even,  and  keep 
them  either  in  a  cool,  moist  cellar, 
or  bury  them  out-doors  in  well 
drained  ground,  with  the  upper  ends  downwards,  cover- 
ing up  well  with  finely  pulverized  soil.  The  making  of 


Fig.  1.  Fig.  2. 

CUTTINGS— ALL  NEW  AND 
PART  OLD  WOOD. 


20  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

cuttings  may  be  continued  during  winter,  although  they 
will  root  more  readily  if  cut  early,  and  there  is  also  no 
danger  of  frost  injuring  the  buds. 

In  spring,  so  soon  as  the  ground  is  dry  enough,  the 
cutting  bed  should  be  prepared.  Choose  for  this  a  light, 
rich  soil,  pulverized  at  least  a  foot  deep  ;  if  not  light  and 
rich  enough,  it  can  be  made  so  by  well-decomposed  leaf 
mould.  Make  a  cut  along  the  whole  length  of  the  bed 
with  the  spade,  deep  enough  to  receive  the  whole  length 
of  the  cuttings,  and  press  these  well  down  into  it,  so  that 
the  upper  buds  are  even  with  the  surface  of  the  earth  ; 
fill  up  with  loose  soil,  and  press  it  down  firmly  with  the 
foot  along  the  line,  so  as  to  pack  it  well  around  the  cut- 
tings. The  cuttings  may  be  put  close  in  the  row,  say  1  to 
2  inches  apart,  and  the  rows  2  to  3  feet  apart,  so  as  to 
allow  of  cultivation  either  by  hand,  plow,  or  cultivator. 
After  the  bed  is  finished,  mulch  with  spent  tan,  sawdust, 
or  leaf  mould,  so  as  to  protect  the  young  shoots  from  the 
sun;  maintain  a  moist  and  even  temperature  during  sum- 
mer, and  keep  the  soil  open  and  porous. 

Keep  the  soil  of  the  cutting  bed  clean  during  the  sum- 
mer. The  young  vines  will  generally  make  a  hard,  firm 
growth  1  to  4  feet  in  length  the  first  summer ;  they 
will  make  their  roots  just  where  they  ought  to  be,  and 
will  be  by  far  the  best  plants  for  general  use,  being  pre- 
ferable to  vines  raised  either  from  single  eyes  or  by 
layers.  In  the  fall  they  should  be  carefully  taken  up,  and 
heeled-in  in  well  pulverized  soil,  deep  enough  to  cover 
the  crowns,  first  assorting,  so  as  to  make  them  as  even 
in  size  as  possible  for  planting.  They  are  then  ready  for 
setting  in  the  vineyard,  and  a  good  strong  one-year-old 
vine  is,  beyond  a  doubt,  the  best  for  that  purpose. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  21 

CHAPTER    IV. 

PROPAGATING  THE  VINE  BY  LAYEKS. 

All  varieties  of  the  grape  may  be  readily  increased  by 
layering,  but  it  is  especially  valuable  for  those  hard- 
wooded  varieties  of  the  mtivalis  species,  which  will  not 
grow  readily  from  cuttings,  and  vines  thus  propagated 
will,  if  handled  rightly,  make  very  good  plants.  To  layer 
a  vine,  shorten  in  the  canes  of  the  last  season's  growth  to 
about  one-half  their  length,  then,  early  in  the  spring,  pre- 
pare the  ground  by  the  use  of  the  spade  or  fork,  to 
thoroughly  pulverize  it.  Make  a  small  furrow  about  an 
inch  deep,  bend  down  the  cane  and  fasten  it  firmly  in  the 
bottom  of  the  furrow,  with  wooden  hooks  or  pegs.  The 
canes  may  be  left  thus  until  the  young  shoots  have  grown 
from  6  to  12  inches,  then  fill  up  around  them  with  fine 
soil  or  leaf  mould.  Canes  so  layered  will  generally  strike 
root  at  every  joint.  The  shoots  may  be  tied  to  small 
sticks,  and  when  they  have  grown  a  foot,  their  tops  should 
be  pinched  to  make  them  more  stocky.  In  the  fall  take 
them  up  'carefully,  commencing  to  dig  at  the  end 
furthest  from  the  vine,  and  separate  the  plants,  by  cutting 
between  the  joints,  so  that  each  shoot  has  a  system  of 
roots  by  itself.  They  are  then  either  planted  immedi- 
ately, or  heeled  in,  as  described  for  vines  from  cuttings, 
to  be  planted  in  the  spring, 


22  AMERICA^   GRAPE   GBOWI^G 

CHAPTER    V. 

GKAFTING   THE   VINE. 

The  advantages  of  grafting  are  :  1.  The  facility  by 
which  new  and  rare  varieties  may  be  rapidly  increased  by 
grafting  on  strong,  healthy  old  vines  ;  thus  treated  they 
often  grow  from  10  to  20  feet  the  first  season,  producing 
an  abundance  of  wood  to  propagate  from.  A  striking 
illustration  of  this  may  be  seen  in  the  vineyards  of  Messrs. 
Poeschel  &  Scherer,  at  Hermann,  Mo.,  who  commenced 
five  years  ago  with  five  eyes  of  the  Elvira,  and  now  have 
2,500  bearing  vines  of  that  variety,  all  grafted  on  strong 
Concord  stocks.  2.  The  short  time  in  which  fruit  can 
be  obtained  of  new  and  untried  varieties,  as  the  grafts 
will  generally  bear  the. second  season.  3.  The  facility  by 
which  vines  of  varieties,  the  fruit  of  which  may  be  worth- 
less, can  be  changed  into  valuable  bearing  vines.  4.  The 
advantage  it  offers  to  us  in  avoiding  that  invidious  enemy, 
the  Phylloxera,  as  we  can  graft  varieties,  the  roots  of 
which  are  subject  to  its  ravages  on  those  kinds  which  are 
Phylloxera  proof,  and  can  facilitate  the  growth  of  natur- 
ally weak  varieties,  and  make  them  more  vigorous,  by 
grafting  on  strong  growing  stocks.  5.  Varieties  which 
will  not  grow  readily  from  cuttings  can  generally  be 
grafted  easily  ;  hence  this  method  is  especially  valuable 
to  increase  the  varieties  of  cestivalis. 

The  vine,  however,  does  not  graft  with  the  same  ease 
as  the  apple  and  pear,  and  it  is,  therefore,  a  more  uncer- 
tain operation.  Moreover,  to  insure  success,  it  should  be 
grafted  below  the  ground,  which  makes  it  a  disagreeable 
operation,  and  one  quite  difficult  to  perform,  hence  it 
will  hardly  become  a  general  practice.  But  for  the  pur- 
poses above  mentioned,  the  operation  is  sufficiently  im- 
portant to  make  it  desirable  that  every  vineyardist  should 
be  able  to  perform  it. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  23 

Here,  the  best  success  generally  is  attained  when  we 
graft  in  March,  although  it  may  be  done  as  late  as  May. 
Dig  away  the  ground  around  the  vine,  until  a  smooth 
place  upon  the  stem  is  found,  then  cut  it  off  smoothly, 
and  insert  one  or  two  scions,  as  in  common  cleft 
grafting,  taking  care  to  cut  the  lower  part  of 
the  scion  to  a  very  thin  wedge,,  as  shown  in 
figure  3,  leaving  two  eyes  on  the  scion  to  insure 
better  success.  Care  should  be  taken  to  insert 
the  scion  properly,  as  the  inner  bark  or  liber  of 
the  vine  is  very  thin,  and  the  success  of  the 
operation  depends  upon  a  perfect  junction  of 
the  stock  and  scion.  If  the  vine  is  strong 
enough  to  hold  the  scion  firmly,  no  bandage  is 
necessary ;  if  not,  the  scion  should  be  tied  with 
a  ligature  of  bast,  or  Bass-wood  bark,  applied 
evenly  and  firmly.  Finish  the  operation  by 
pressing  the  earth  firmly  around  the  cut,  and 
fill  up  with  fine  soil  to  the  top  of  the  scion,  or 
cover  it  up  with  sawdust.  Examine  the  stock 
often,  and  remove  all  suckers  that  appear  from 
time  to  time,  as  they  will  rob  the  graft  of  its 
nourishment.  Do  not  be  discouraged  if  the 
scion  does  not  start  at  once.  Scions  will  often 
remain  dormant  for  a  month,  and  then  start 
and  grow  with  astonishing  vigor ;  such  are  gen- 
erally more  sure  to  grow  than  those  which  start 
prematurely,  before  a  firm  junction  is  effected 
between  the  stock  and  graft.  This  is  an  old 
method  of  propagating  which  has  been  very 
successful  with  me.  Another,  and  a  very  good 
one,  is  the  following:  "Make  a  slanting  cut  GRAFTING. 
in  the  stock,  from  the  side,  downwards  towards  the 
middle,  then  cut  your  scion  to  a  simple  wedge,  and 
push  it  down  on  one  side,  so  as  to  join  the  bark  of  the 
stock.  This  has  the  advantage  that  the  stock  need  not 


24  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

be  cut  off,  in  case  the  scion  should  not  unite  with  it, 
and  as  the  fibres  of  both  scion  and  stock  are  cut  trans- 
versely, the  pores  join  better.  As  soon  as  the  scion  starts, 
cut  off  the  stock  above  it,  taking  care,  however,  not  to 
move  the  scion  in  the  operation." 

The  following  is  copied  from  the  Seventh  Annual  Re- 
port of  the  State  Entomologist  of  Missouri  (1875);  the 
methods  described  are  mostly  to  counteract  the  Phyllox= 
era,  by  establishing  the  graft  upon  Phylloxera  proof 
roots,  and  preventing  it  from  making  roots  of  its  own  : 

"  There  are  several  methods  of  grafting  above  ground, 
which  I  have  every  reason  to  believe  may  be  made  more 
successful  than  grape-growers  have  hitherto  supposed ; 
the  first  is,  by  making  a  false  surface  and  grafting  in  the 
manner  just  described,  but  instead  of  digging  away  the 
earth  and  inserting  the  scion  several  inches  below  ground, 
it  should  be  inserted  above  ground,  and  the  earth  thrown 
up  around  it,  to  be  removed  after  the  graft  is -thoroughly 
and  permanently  joined.  There  will  be  no  danger  of  the 
graft  forming  its  own  roots,  and  it  is  certainly  as  easy  to 
throw  the  earth  around  the  vine  as  to  dig  it  away,  while 
the  work  can  be  more  easily  performed  above  than  below 
the  surface.  No  doubt  this  method  of  grafting  needs 
greater  care,  especially  in  dry  seasons,  as  the  mound  is 
more  apt  to  dry  out  than  the  level  ground.  Yet  there  is 
evidence  that  this  method  will  work  well  in  our  soil  and 
climate.  Mr.  Jno.  Vallet,  of  New  Haven,  Mo. ,  a  grape- 
grower  of  much  experience,  has  had  good  success  in  this 
grafting  above  ground,  using  flax  twine  and  pawpaw  bark 
for  bandages.  He  considers  that  the  vine  grows  more 
vigorously  (which  I  am  inclined  to  doubt),  and  that  there 
is  less  danger  of  separating  the  graft  when  the  union  is 
once  formed,  as  it  is  not  necessary  to  go  below  ground 
to  destroy  the  suckers,  by  which  the  grafts  are  sometimes 
disturbed." 

"  The  second  method  is  by  inarching.     This  system  of 


AND    WINE   MAKING.  25 

grafting  does  not  seem  to  have  been  practised  much  in 
this  country  ;  yet,  while  it  requires  great  care,  and  may 
not  be  as  generally  successful  as  the  former  methods,  I 
hope  more  attention  will,  in  future,  be  given  to  it.  The 
operation  is  simple  :  A  slice  of  2  or  3  inches  long 
is  cut  from  one  side  of  the  vine  to  be  grafted  with,  and  a 
similar  slice  from  the  one  which  is  to  serve  as  stock,  as 
near  to  the  base  as  possible  (of  course,  graft  and  stock 
must  be  close  together).  The  two  cut  portions  are  then 
brought  face  to  face,  so  as  to  fit  neatly,  and  are  bound 
together  with  Bass-wood  bark,  or  other  grafting  bandage, 
and  wrapped  in  moss,  which  should  be  kept  moist.  In 
the  course  of  a  fortnight,  partial  union  takes  place,  when 
the  bandage  should  be  slightly  loosened,  to  allow  of  ex- 
pansion. In  six  or  eight  weeks,  if  successful,  the  stock 
and  scion  are  firmly  united,  when  the  bandage  may  be 
removed.  The  graft  immediately  below  the  union, 
and  the  stock  immediately  above  it,  should  then  be 
cut  in  a  week  or  two."  This  method  has  been  success- 
fully followed  by  Mr.  Eugene  Cambre,  of  Nauvoo,  111. 

Mr.  Cambre,  in  giving  his  experience,  writes  :  "  I 
have  positively  abandoned  cleft  grafting  ;  it  is  too  much 
trouble  and  too  uncertain,  and  the  graft  often  makes  its 
own  roots.  I  assure  you  that  from  a  long  experience  in 
inarching,  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  not  alone  the  Dela- 
ware, but  most  of  our  cultivated  varieties,  will  do  better 
on  native  wild  roots  than  on  their  own.  I  have  14  acres  of 
vines  mostly  grafted  in  this  manner  on  wild  stocks,  and 
I  have  not  lost  one  of  such  grafts.  It  is  preferable  to 
graft  at  from  10  to  15  inches  from  the  ground. " 

Another  mode  of  grafting  above  ground  is  thus  given 
in  "  The  Cultivation  of  the  Grape,"  by  W.  C.  Strong  : 

"In  'The  Gardeners'  Monthly/ Vol.  II.,  p.  347,  is  a 
description  of  a  mode  practised  with  success  by  Mr.  Cor- 
nelius, which  we  copy,  not  merely  as  it  is  interesting  in 
2 


AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 


itself,  but  also  because  it  illustrates  many  other  modifica- 
tions in  grafting  : 

'  After  the  first  four  or  five  leaves  are  formed,  and  the 
sap  is  flowing,  you  choose  the  place  on  the  vine  where  you 
intend  to  graft.  At  that  point  wrap  tightly  a  twine  sev- 
eral times  around  the  vine.  This  will,  in  a  measure,  pre- 
vent the  return  sap. 

'  Below  the  ligature,  make  a  sloping  cut  down,  as  shown 
at  figure  4,  a  ;  also,  a  similar  reversed 
one  above  the  ligature,  as  at  I,  about 
one  inch  in  length.  In  selecting  a 
scion  prefer  one  that  has  naturally  a 
bend.  Cut  it  so  that  it  shall  be  wedge 
shaped  at  both  ends,  and  a  little  longer 
than  the  distance  between  the  cuts  in 
the  vine  at  a  and  b.  Insert  the  scion, 
taking  care  to  have  the  barks  in  direct 
contact,  securing  it  with  a  string,  c, 
bound  round  both  scion  and  vine  suf- 
ficiently tight  to  force  the  scion  ends 
into  their  places.  If  the  work  is  done 
well,  no  tie  will  be  required  at  a  and  5, 
but  the  joints. should  be  covered  with 
grafting  wax.  In  a  short  time,  the 
bud  at  d  will  commence  its  growth, 
after  which  you  can  by  degrees  remove 
all  the  growing  shoots  not  belonging 
to  the  scion,  and  in  course  of  the  sum- 
mer you  may  cut  off  the  wood  above  b, 
and  in  the  fall  remove  all  above  a  on 
the  stock,  and  above  c  on  the  scion." 
"  Still  another  mode  of  grafting 
remains  to  be  mentioned,  which  has,  I  believe,  seldom, 
if  ever,  been  attempted  in  this  part  of  the  country,  but 
which  has  been  employed  with  much  satisfaction  the  past 
year  by  a  few  vine  growers  in  France,  and  especially  by 


Fig.  4.— GRAFTING 
ABOVE  GROUND. 


AND   WINE   MAKING. 


M.  H.  Bouschet,  of  Montpelier.  It  is  the  winter  graft- 
ing of  a  cutting  of  such  variety  as  is  desired  to  grow  upon 
another  which  is  to  be  used  as  stock, 
the  combined  cuttings  being  planted 
in  the  usual  manner  in  spring,  leav- 
ing only  the  buds  on  the  graft 
proper  out  of  the  ground.  This  is 
very  similar  to  our  ordinary  mode 
of  making  apple  grafts  ;  and  while 
we  have  little  or  no  experience  in 
this  country  on  which  to  base  antic- 
ipations, the  method  is  worthy  of 
trial,  and  is  illustrated  at  figure  5." 

"But  not  to  weary  with  details, 
I  here  reaffirm  my  belief,  strength- 
ened by  each  further  observation, 
and  by  every  additional  experience 
of  the  past  year,  that  just  as  the 
working  of  the  Root-louse  is  the 
primal  cause  of  failure  of  some  of 
our  choicest  varieties  of  the  grape- 
vine, so  in  judicious  grafting  we 
have  the  most  available  means  of 
counteracting  its  work,  and  of  thus 
growing  successfully  many  of  those 
kinds  which  cannot  be  grown  in 
this  latitude  with  any  profit  or 
success  on  their  own  roots." 

I  have  omitted  propagation  by  single  eyes,  as  this 
method  is  now  only  followed  by  nurserymen,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  increasing  new  and  valuable  varieties.  As  it  in- 
volves the  expense  of  a  propagating  house,  it  can  be  of 
little  value  to  the  vineyardist,  and  those  who  intend  to 
follow  it  professionally,  are  generally  proficient  already. 


Fig.  5. 


GRAFTED   CUTTINGS— PART 
OLD   AND    ALL   NEW  WOOD. 


J 


28  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

CHAPTER    VI. 

THE  VINEYARD.— LOCATION,  ASPECT,  AND  SOIL. 

As  the  selection  of  a  proper  location  for  the  vineyard 
is  of  first  importance,  and  one  of  the  main  conditions  of 
success,  great  care  and  judgment  should  be  exercised  in 
the  choice.  Nearly  any  soil  will  grow  grapes,  at  least  for 
the  table,  and  some  varieties  are  so  hardy  and  thrifty, 
that  they  can  be  grown  almost  anywhere,  but  with 
grapes  on  a  large  scale,  either  for  market  or  wine,  or 
both,  good  and  paying  results  will  only  be  reached  in  the 
best  locations. 

When  writing  nj^  first  little  book  I  was  under  the  im- 
pression that  the  hillsides  along  our  larger  streams  were 
best  adapted  to  the  growth  and  health  of  the  vine. 
After  six  years'  experience  in  Southwest  Missouri,  on  the 
prairies  and  high  uplands  removed  from  all  larger 
streams,  I  have  changed  my  opinion  entirely,  and  now 
believe  that  the  dry  atmosphere  and  cool  breezes  of  these 
uplands  are  much  more  conducive  to  the  health  of  the 
vine.  We  know  but  little  of  rot  or  mildew  here,  even  in 
the  last  five  exceedingly  wet  summers,  when  the  grape 
crop  along  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi  rivers,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  such  ironclads  as  Norton's  Virginia, 
Cynthiana,  Ives,  and  Elvira,  was  almost  a  failure. 
Those  localities  may  generally  be  considered  safe  for  the 
grape,  in  which  there  are  no  miasmatic  influences. 
Where  malaria  and  fevers  prevail,  there  is  no  safety  for 
the  crop,  as  the  vine  seems  to  be  as  susceptible  to  such 
influences  as  human  beings. 

Keeping  this  fact  in  view,  we  may  consider  our  high 
table  lands  and  hillsides,  where  the  vines  are  fully  ex- 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  29 

posed  to  the  prevailing  winds  in  summer,  our  best  loca- 
tions. These  are  also  generally  free  from  frost  late  in 
spring  and  early  in  fall,  which  is  another  important  con- 
sideration for  the  vineyardist.  The  soil  should  be  natur- 
ally well  drained,  as  the  vine  does  not  like  to  have  "  wet 
feet;"  therefore,  tenacious  sub-soils,  so-called  "hard- 
pans,"  should  be  avoided.  I  have  seen  equally  good 
results  in  limestone  as  in  sandstone  soils,  though  it  will 
generally  hold  good  that  a  sandy,  and  at  the  same  time 
moderately  rich  soil,  is  better  adapted  to  most  of  our 
varieties  than  heavy  clay.  We  have  thousands  of  such 
locations,  and  no  where  have  I  seen  more  beautiful  grapes 
than  on  the  sandstone  hills  around  Warrensburg,  in  this 
State,  (a  neighborhood  noted  at  the  same  time  for  its 
famous  sandstone  quarries,)  although  the  hillsides,  at  first 
sight,  appear  rather  poor.  The  professional  grape-grower, 
therefore,  can  find  abundant  scope,  and  should  certainly 
look  after  such  locations.  The  amateur,  however,  who 
only  wishes  to  grow  grapes  on  a  small  scale,  and  for  home 
use,  can  easily  make  his  soil  light  by  an  addition  of  sand, 
and  occasionally  lime.  Let  him  choose  the  spot  on  his 
grounds  which  seems  best  adapted  to  his  purpose,  and 
although  he  may  not  grow  as  rich  grapes,  yet  he  will 
grow  them  good  enough,  and  abundant  enough,  if  he 
chooses  the  proper  varieties. 


30  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

CHAPTER     VII. 

PREPARING  THE  SOIL. 

For  the  preparation  of  the  soil,  the  foundation  of  his 
work,  the  grape  grower  must  be  guided  in  his  operations 
by  the  condition  in  which  he  finds  his  ground.  If  it  is 
an  old  field,  free  from  stumps  and  stones,  or  a  piece  of 
prairie  soil,  it  will  be  easily  prepared.  Break  up  the  soil 
with  a  good  large  turning  plow  and  strong  team  to  pull 
it,  and  follow  in  the  same  furrow  with  a  subsoil  stirring 
plow,  which  merely  loosens  the  ground ;  and  do  this  as 
deep  as  possible,  if  20  inches,  all  the  better,  though  16 
inches  in  all  will  do  if  you  cannot  go  deeper. 

If,  however,  the  land  is  a  new  piece  of  forest  soil,  the 
task  will  be  much  more  difficult.  This  must  be  care- 
fully grubbed  of  stumps  and  roots,  and  although  the  same 
implements  will,  in  a  measure,  suffice,  yet  the  turning 
plow  should  have  a  sharp  coulter  in  front,  and  the  sub- 
soil plow  should  also  have  a  strong  and  sharp  coulter, 
with  merely  a  wedge-shaped,  strong  share  to  stir  the 
soil.  Besides,  much  more  power  will  be  necessary.  In 
stony  soil,  the  pick  and  shovel  must  take  the  place  of  the 
plow,  as  it  would  be  impossible  to  work  it  thoroughly 
with  the  latter  ;  but  I  think  there  is  no  advantage  in  the 
old  method  of  trenching  or  inverting  the  soil.  If  we  ex- 
amine the  wild  vines  of  our  forests,  we  will  generally  find 
their  roots  running  along  in  the  surface  soil.  It  is  un- 
natural to  suppose  that  the  vine,  the  most  sun-loving  of 
all  plants,  should  have  its  roots  buried  several  feet  below 
the  surface,  where  neither  sun  nor  air  can  reach  them. 
Work  the  soil  well  and  thoroughly,  and  as  deep  as  you 
can,  it  will  be  labor  well  invested  ;  will  be  the  best  pre- 
ventive against  drouth,  and  the  best  drainage  in  wet 
weather,  but  leave  it  in  its  natural  position,  and  do  not 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  31 

plant  too  deep.  Rest  assured  if  the  roots  find  anything 
congenial  below,  they  will  hunt  it  up.  Should  the  soil 
be  very  poor,  it  may  be  enriched  by  ashes,  bone  dust, 
manure,  etc.,  but  it  will  seldom  be  necessary,  as  most  of 
our  soil  is  naturally  rich  enough,  and  it  is  not  advisable 
to  stimulate  the  growth  too  much,  as  it  will  become  rank 
and  unhealthy,  and  impair  the  quality  of  the  fruit. 

Wet  spots  may  be  drained  by  gutters  filled  with  loose 
stones  or  tiles,  and  then  covered  with  earth.  Surface 
draining  can  be  done  by  running  a  small  ditch  or  furrow, 
every  sixth  or  eighth  row,  parallel  with  the  hillside,  and 
leading  into  a  main  ditch  at  the  middle  or  end  of  the 
vineyard.  Steep  hillsides  should  be  terraced  or  benched, 
but  as  this  is  laborious  and  expensive,  they  should  be 
avoided. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

WHAT  GKAPES  TO  PLANT.— CHOICE  O¥  VARIETIES. 

This  is,  indeed,  a  difficult  matter  to  decide  in  a  vast 
country  like  ours,  where  soil  and  climate  differ  so  much, 
and  I  think  it  a  great  mistake  into  which  some  of  our 
most  prominent  grape-growers  have  fallen,  to  recommend 
any  grape  for  general  cultivation,  simply  because  it  has 
succeeded  with  them.  Grape  growing  is,  perhaps,  more 
than  any  other  branch  of  horticulture,  dependent  upon 
soil  and  climate,  and  it  will  not  do  to  dictate  to  the  in- 
habitants of  a  country  where  the  extremes  meet,  that 
they  should  all  plant  the  same  varieties.  Yet  this  has 
been  done  by  some  who  pretend  to  be  authorities,  recom- 
mending the  same  grape  for  planting  North  and  South, 
East  and  West,  which  certainly  shows  that  they  have 
more  arrogance  tnan  knowledge.  I  have  seen  such  widely 


32  AMERICAN  GRAPE   GROWING 

different  results,  in  vineyards  closely  adjoining,  that  I 
have  become  reluctant  to  recommend,  even  to  my  nearest 
neighbor,  what  he  should  plant. 

In  the  East  and  North  the  demand  is  still  for  some- 
thing earlier  than  we  yet  have,  while  here  in  the  West  we 
do  not  desire  the  early  grapes  so  much,  at  least,  not  for 
wine  making  purposes.  The  earliest,  so  far,  seem  to 
come  from  the  Labrusca ;  those  who  desire  still  earlier 
grapes,  will  have  to  look  to  these  mostly,  and  it  seems  as 
if  the  Early  Champion  is  a  step  in  that  direction,  being 
better,  and,  as  its  friends  claim,  ten  days  earlier  than  the 
Hartford  Prolific.  From  Southern  Texas  my  friend  and 
correspondent,  G.  Onderdonk,  of  Victoria,  writes  to  me, 
that  it  is  useless  to  cultivate  the  Labrusca  there,  as  it 
will  not  succeed,  and  their  grapes  are  emphatically  the 
Warren  (or  Herbemont),  and  the  Black  Spanish  (so-called, 
but  the  true  Lenoir),  both  belonging  to  cestivalis  of  the 
Southern  class.  The  varieties  of  Labrusca  cannot  stand 
their  summers,  and  this  fact,  with  their  failure  in  France, 
where  also  they  can  not  stand  their  hot  and  arid  sum- 
mers, lead  me  to  the  supposition  that  their  tendency  to 
root  near  the  surface  is  the  cause  of  it.  The  varieties 
of  cBstivalis  and  cordifolia  all  root  deeper,  and  are,  there- 
fore, better  calculated  to  withstand  the  severe  drouths. 

We,  here  in  Missouri,  are  centrally  located,  and  while 
it  will  be  well  to  cultivate  some  of  the  early  varieties  of 
the  Labrusca  for  market  and  early  table,  our  reliance  for 
the  main  crop  will,  in  future,  be  the  cestivalis  and  cordi- 
folia,  all  the  more  so,  as  they  are  exempt  from  the  rav- 
ages of  that  insidious  little  enemy,  the  Phylloxera,  to 
which  the  greater  part  of  the  Labrusca  varieties  are  sub- 
ject, and  which  may  be,  in  a  great  measure,  the  cause  of 
their  frequent  failure.  With  these  few  general  remarks, 
which  may  serve  somewhat  to  guide  the  planter  in  a 
selection,  I  will  now  describe  a  few  of  the  most  promi- 
nent and  reliable  of  each  class  of  the  older  varieties, 


Fig.  7.—  GKETHE  (UOGEBS'  HYBRID  NO.   1).  (33) 


//  O  <V  A 

{'•>'-#». 


HA. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  35 

together  with  some  of  the  most  promising,  giving  at  the 
end  a  list  of  varieties  which  promise  to  be  generally  suc- 
cessful for  the  East  and  North,  one  for  the  central  sec- 
tion of  our  country,  and  one  for  the  extreme  South. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

LABKUSCA    CLASS,    WITH    THEIR    HYBRIDS. 

CONCORD. — This  is  too  well  known  to  need  any  particu- 
lar description.  It  was  considered,  until  lately,  one  of 
the  most  reliable  and  productive,  but  for  the  last  few 
years  has  rotted  so  badly,  that  it  is  now  considered  unre- 
liable by  a  great  many.  The  fruit  is  of  fair  quality, 
very  handsome,  too  soft  to  carry  well  to  market,  and 
will  not  keep.  "Will,  with  skillful  handling  and  a  little 
artificial  heat,  make  a  wine  of  fair  quality,  of  a  very  en- 
livening and  invigorating  character,  which  is  'emphati- 
cally the  "  poor  man's  "  drink,  as  it  can  be  produced  cheap, 
and  is  just  the  beverage  he  needs,  instead  of  the  poison- 
ous compounds  called  whiskey  and  brandy.  A  rampant 
and  hardy  grower,  not  subject  to  Phylloxera,  and  will, 
perhaps,  bear  more  overcropping  and  neglect  than  any 
other.  Has  been  very  valuable,  but  I  think  will  be 
superseded  by  better  sorts  so  soon  as  they  become  better 
known.  Specific  gravity  of  must  76°. 

CATAWBA. — Also  too  well  known  to  need  description. 
Although  very  unreliable,  it  yet  holds  its  place  among 
wine  grapes,  especially  on  the  Lakes,  and  although  I 
would  not  recommend  it  generally,  it  does  succeed  in 
some  sections,  and  is  a  good  grape  where  it  can  be  grown, 
making  a  high-flavored  and  sprightly  wine.  It  is  very 
much  subject  to  the  attacks  of  Phylloxera,  and  this  alone 


36  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

is  enough  to  make  any  one  hesitate  to  plant  it,  when 
varieties  so  much  better  can  be  had.  Specific  gravity  of 
must  80°.  On  a  recent  trip  I  have  seen  the  Catawba  in 
such  perfection  on  the  Lakes  in  Western  New  York,  that 
it  would  seem  to  me  it  is  still  the  grape  for  them. 
When  they  can  grow  from  fifteen  to  twenty  pounds  to 
the  vine,  as  I  have  seen  on  Crooked  Lake,  without  a 
rotten  berry,  or  blemish,  and  the  must  going  up  to  96°, 
they  ought  to  plant  Catawba  still,  although  I  do  not 
consider  it  a  perfect  grape  even  there. 

ESSEX. — (Rogers9  Hybrid  No.  41).  This  is  a  beautiful 
and  good  grape,  and-  with  me,  has  generally  given  satis- 
faction. Bunch  medium,  shouldered  ;  berry  very  large, 
double  the  size  of  Concord,  round,  black,  with  blue 
bloom  ;  skin  thin,  pulp  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  and  vinous, 
with  hardly  any  native  aroma.  Vine  a  good  grower, 
abundant  bearer,  and  little  subject  to  disease.  Ripens 
with  Concord. 

GCETHE.— (Rogers'  Hybrid  No.  1).  For  us  in  the  West 
this  is  one  of  the  most  reliable  and  best  of  all  the  La- 
brusca  class,  and  has  no  foxiness,  but  some  of  the  flavor 
of  its  vinifera  parent.  I  have  seen  it  succeed  equally 
well  near  Baltimore  and  Washington  City.  Many  have 
failed  to  succeed  with  this,  and  also  others  of  the  Rogers' 
Hybrids,  for  the  simple  reason  that  the  vines  are 
luxuriant  growers  and  very  abundant  bearers,  and  the 
vines  were  taxed  beyond  their  strength  when  young;  did 
not  ripen  their  fruit  or  wood  well,  and  were  enfeebled  for 
years  to  come.  But  with  rather  short  pruning,  severe 
thinning  of  the  fruit  when  young,  and  allowing  the  vine 
only  from  10  to  15  Ibs.  of  fruit  per  year,  good  results  can 
be  gained  nearly  every  year.  This  will  apply  to  all  the 
Rogers'  Hybrids.  Bunch  medium  to  large,  rather  loose, 
shouldered  ;  berry  very  large,  oblong,  very  good  when  yet 
white,  when  it  resembles  the  Malaga,  pale  red  when  fully 


Fig.  8. — MARTHA., 


(38) 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  39 

ripe;  skin  thin,  pulp  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  and  luscious,  with 
fine  Frontignan  flavor.  Fine  for  table  and  market,  and 
makes  a  very  delicate  white  wine,  superior  to  Catawba. 
Specific  gravity  of  must  80°.  Vine  a  strong,  rampant 
grower,  with  peculiar  mottled  foliage,  ;  generally  healthy 
and  hardy,  though  occasionally  subject  to  rot.  Ripens 
with  Catawba.  Fine  on  the  Lakes,  though  it  develops  a 
stronger  feline  flavor  there. 

IVES. — Whoever  is  satisfied  with  a  grape  which  is 
healthy  and  hardy,  and  an  abundant  bearer,  but  of  very 
poor  quality,  may  plant  the  Ives.  I  confess  that  I  would 
rather  not  have  any  grapes  if  I  could  not  have  better 
than  the  Ives.  It  is  well  enough  known  to  need  no  de- 
scription, and,  in  fact,  deserves  none,,  but  it  will  yield  an 
abundance  of  fruit,  which  will  color  early,  generally 
spoils  the  market  for  good  grapes ;  hangs  well  to  the 
bunch,  and  will  do  for  stewing  and  preserving,  also 
makes  a  tolerable  Claret  wine,  if  allowed  to  hang  very 
long,  and  fortified  with  sugar.  Specific  gravity  of 
must  72°. 

LINDLEY. — (Rogers'  Hybrid  No.  7).  Bunch  large  and 
long,  moderately  compact,  shouldered;  berry  medium, 
about  the  size  of  Catawba,  round,  pale  red,  with  beautiful 
violet  bloom,  sweet,  juicy,  and  high  flavored ;  skin  not 
thick,  but  tough,  which  makes  it  keep  excellently. 
Ripens  about  the  same  time  as  Catawba ;  an  abundant 
bearer,  a  strong,  long-jointed  grower,  and  a  valuable  table 
and  market  grape,  especially  on  account  of  its  keeping 
qualities,  though  too  high  flavored  for  wine. 

MARTHA. — Originated  with  Samuel  Miller,  at  Calmdale, 
Pa.,  and  has  long  held  its  place  as  "  the  best  white  grape 
for  everybody,"  on  account  of  its  health,  productiveness, 
and  fair  quality  for  table  and  wine.  It  is  a  seedling  of 
the  Concord,  and  a  decided  improvement  on  it.  Bunch 
medium,  moderately  compact,  shouldered  ;  berry  medium, 


40  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

smaller  than  Concord,  round,  greenish-yellow,  with  white 
bloom  ;  skin  thin,  pulp  softer  than  in  Concord,  juicy  and 
sweet;  good  when  just  colored;  when  dead  ripe  it  be- 
comes somewhat  insipid  and  foxy.  Vine  a  strong, 
healthy  grower,  succeeding  on  almost  any  soil ;  fruit  less 
liable  to  rot  than  Concord,  and  containing  more  sugar ; 
also  retains  but  little  of  its  foxy  character  in  its  wine, 
which  resembles  good  Catawba.  Specific  gravity  of  must 
85°.  This  is  certainly  a  valuable  grape,  as  it  is  also  even 
hardier  than  the  Concord,  but  will  now,  it  is  very  likely, 
be  superseded  by  the  Elvira. 

MASSASOIT. — A  very  early  grape  of  excellent  quality. 
Bunch  medium,  compact,  shouldered  ;  berry  above 
medium,  pale  red,  with  lilac  bloom,  slightly  oblong,  very 
juicy,  sweet  and  fine  flavored ;  the  best  early  grape  I 
know,  ripens  about  as  early  as  Hartford  Prolific,  and 
when  merely  soft,  is  better  than  Hartford  at  its  prime. 
Is  full  as  early  as  Delaware,  to  my  taste  better,  and  will 
succeed  more  generally  than  that.  A  beautiful  and  good 
market  and  table  grape,  and  also  makes  a  very  fine  wine. 
Vine  a  good  grower  and  bearer.  Specific  gravity  of  must 
85°. 

PERKINS. — Those  who  do  not  object  to  a  good  deal  of 
foxy  aroma,  will  be  pleased  with  this,  as  it  is  very  early, 
hardy,  and  productive.  Bunch  medium,  rather  loose, 
shouldered  ;  berry  oblong,  pale  red,  with  fine  lilac  bloom, 
sweet,  but  foxy;  apt  to  drop  from  the  bunch  when  very 
ripe.  Ripens  as  early  as  Hartford  Prolific,  healthy, 
hardy,  and  very  productive  ;  generally  sells  well  in  mar- 
ket ;  a  strong  grower,  with  thick,  leathery  leaves. 

SALEM. — Bunch  full  medium,  compact,  shouldered  ; 
berry  large,  round,  of  a  peculiar  brownish  color,  with 
lilac  bloom ;  juicy  and  sweet,  with  a  peculiar  pleasant 
aroma ;  considered  by  Mr.  Rogers  to  be  the  best  of  his 
Hybrids,  but  it  is  not  so  generally  successful  here  as  Goethe, 


Fig.  9.— WILDER  (ROGERS'  HYBRID  NO.  4). 


(42) 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  43 

Lindley,  Massasoit,  and  Wilder.  It  is  very  apt  to  over- 
bear, and  should  be  thinned  severely.  Eipens  about  same 
time  as  Catawba. 

TELEGRAPH,  OR  CHRISTINE. — An  early  grape  of  very 
fair  quality.  Bunch  medium,  very  compact,  shouldered  ; 
berry  medium,  black,  with  blue  bloom,  juicy,  sweet,  and 
good  for  so  early  a  grape,  as  it  ripens  with  Hartford  Pro- 
lific. A  strong  and  healthy  grower,  dark  brown  wood, 
and  very  productive,  though  sometimes  rotting  severely. 

WILDER. — (Rogers'  No.  4).  A  beautiful  and  very 
good  grape.  Bunch  large  and  heavy,  shouldered,  moder- 
ately compact ;  berry  large,  round,  black,  with  blue 
bloom,  tender  pulp,  sweet,  juicy,  and  refreshing,  without 
foxiness,  ripens  earlier  than  Concord,  and  is  nearly  as 
large  and  as  good  as  Black  Hamburg.  Vine  a  good 
grower,  and  generally  healthy,  but  very  apt  to  overbear, 
and  the  fruit  should  be  thinned  severely.  Fine  for  table 
and  market,  and  makes  an  agreeable  light,  red  wine. 
Specific  gravity  of  must  78°. 

These  are  the  most  prominent  and  best  tried  of  the 
Labrusca  class.  The  following  are  of  good  quality,  but 
have  not  been  so  generally  tried ;  they  may  be  classed  as 
*'  Promising  well  "  : 

AMINIA. — (Rogers'  39).  Bunch  medium,  moderately 
compact,  shouldered ;  berry  full  medium,  round,  black, 
sweet,  vinous,  very  good.  Eipens  earlier  than  Hartford,  and 
is  much  better  in  quality  ;  may,  therefore,  be  valuable  for 
early  market.  Somewhat  subject  to  rot.  Vine  a  good 
and  clean  grower,  'very  productive. 

BARRY. — (Rogers'  43).  Bunch  full  medium,  moder- 
ately compact,  shouldered  ;  berry  large,  round,  black, 
with  blue  bloom,  in  quality  much  like  Wilder,  though  a 
little  more  astringent ;  vine  a  good  grower  and  bearer  ; 
ripens  with  Concord.  A  handsome  market  and  table 
grape.  Very  successful  on  the  Lakes,  and  at  Rochester. 


44  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

BEAUTY. — One  of  the  seedlings  of  Mr.  Jacob  Rommel, 
a  cross  between  Delaware  and  Maxatawney ;  has  been 
vigorous  and  healthy  so  far  ;  a  strong  grower,  and  very 
productive.  It  has  fruited  seven  years  in  succession. 
Bunch  full  medium,  compact,  shouldered ;  berry  about 
the  size  and  color  of  Catawba,  oblong,  covered  with  lilac 
bloom.  Ripens  here  the  last  week  in  August.  Sweet,  ex- 
quisite flavor  ;  thin,  but  rather  tough  skin,  tender  pulp. 
This  promises  to  keep  well,  and  as  the  bunches  are  very 
even  and  attractive  in  appearance,  it  may  be  a  very  valu- 
able market  grape,  as  it  is  superior  in  quality  to  Dela- 
ware; and  as  it  excels  the  Catawba  in  fine  and  delicate 
flavor,  and  is  without  its  harshness  and  austerity  in  pulp, 
it  will  very  likely  make  a  very  fine,  high  flavored  wine. 
I  consider  this  the  most  promising  of  all  our  varieties 
of  the  Labrusca. 

BLACK  EAGLE. — Originated  with  Mr.  Stephen  Under- 
bill, at  Croton  Point,  N.  Y.  A  hybrid  of  Labrusca  and 
vinifera.  A  new  early  table  grape  of  very  fine  quality. 
Bunch  large,  moderately  compact,  shouldered  ;  berry 
large,  oval,  black,  with  blue  bloom,  flesh  rich  and  melt- 
ing, with  little  pulp.  The  vine  is  a  straight,  handsome 
grower,  the  leaf  deeply  lobed,  dark  green  and  heavy ; 
shape  of  the  foreign.  Very  promising  so  far. 

BLACK  DEFIANCE. — Same  origin  as  the  preceding.  A 
hybrid  between  St.  Peters  and  Concord.  Bunch  large  ; 
berry  large,  above  Concord,  black,  with  a  fine  bloom, 
sweet,  vinous,  and  juicy  ;  ripens  several  weeks  later  than 
Concord,  and  should  it  prove  healthy  and  hardy,  is  about 
the  best  late  black  table  grape  we  have. 

EARLY  CHAMPION. — Brought  out  by  J.  S.  Stone, 
Charlotte,  New  York.  Said  to  be  ten  days  earlier  than 
Hartford  Prolific,  of  better  quality,  very  hardy  and  pro- 
ductive, and  if  this  is  so,  it  certainly  deserves  trial  as  an 
early  market  grape. 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  45 

EVA. — A  sister  of  the  Martha,  raised  by  my  friend 
Miller,  at  the  same  time,  but  has  been  sadly  neglected. 
Our  friend  Campbell  claims  that  it  is  better  than  Martha. 
To  me  it  seems  to  be  nearly  the  same. 

LADY.- — Mr.  George  W.  Campbell  claims  for  this  that 
it  is  the  best  and  earliest  white  grape  now  grown, 
and  it  is  certainly  a  good  and  beautiful  fruit,  when  just 
colored.  I  had  occasion  to  taste  it  a  number  of  times, 
and  found  it  best  when  just  soft ;  the  riper  it  gets,  the 
more  insipid  and  foxy  it  becomes.  So  far  it  has  not 
given  satisfaction  as  a  grower  and  bearer  here,  and  has 
also  rotted  badly  ;  but  friend  Campbell  generally  knows 
whereof  he  affirms,  and  it  must  be  good  in  Northern 
Ohio,  from  all  I  can  learn.  Bunch  medium,  compact ; 
berry  full  medium,  pale  yellow,  with  white  bloom,  pulp 
tender,  sweet,  juicy.  Said  to  be  ten  days  earlier  than 
Concord. 

TRIUMPH. — A  hybrid  between  Chasselas  Musque  and 
Concord,  grown  by  Geo.  W.  Campbell,  Delaware,  Ohio, 
and  considered  by  him  too  late  for  that  section,  and 
wanting  in  character.  Here  in  Missouri  it  ripens  to  per- 
fection, and  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  attractive  white 
grapes  for  the  table  I  have  yet  seen.  Friend  Miller,  of 
Bluffton,  has  it  in  propagation,  and  has  fruited  it  sev- 
eral years.  Bunch  large  and  heavy,  shouldered,  moder- 
ately compact ;  berry  very  large,  golden-yellow,  transpar- 
ent, with  delicate  bloom  ;  skin  thin,  pulp  tender,  sweet, 
juicy,  and  excellent.  Eipens  about  with  Catawba.  It 
seems  to  be  hardy  and  tolerably  healthy,  as  it  has  rotted 
less  than  Concord,  and  it,  therefore,  certainly  deserves  a 
trial,  as  such  grapes  as  it  produces  are  a  feast  to  any  one, 
and  would  readily  sell  at  25  cents  per  pound.  Succeeded 
finely  here  last  summer. 

On  a  recent  Eastern,  round  among  the  vineyards  of 
Western  New  York,  I  examined  the  following,  which  I 


46  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

think  may  safely  be  added  to  the  list  of  "  Promising 
well."  The  Prentiss  and  Mr.  Ricketts'  seedlings  I  saw 
on  the  grounds  of  the  originators,  at  Crooked  Lake  and 
at  Newburgh,  and  under  circumstances  which  I  thought 
not  at  all  favorable  to  their  highest  development.  I 
think  it  my  duty  to  state  this,  as  I  had  been  led  to  be- 
lieve that  Mr.  Ricketts'  seedlings  had  been  petted,  pam- 
pered, and  protected,  all  of  which  I  found  just  the  re- 
verse, and  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  treatment  they 
received  was  not  at  all  calculated  to  develop  their  best 
points. 

BRIGHTON. — Seen  on  the  grounds  of  Mr.  E.  Hooker, 
Rochester.  Vine  very  productive,  foliage  moderately 
healthy,  though  perhaps  not  so  healthy  as  Concord. 
Bunch  large,  shouldered ;  berry  medium,  about  size  of 
Catawba,  round,  brownish-red,  very  handsome,  sweet, 
without  being  insipid  ;  to  my  taste  better  than  Dela- 
ware, because  more  vinous ;  pulp  tender,  very  juicy. 
Very  promising. 

EARLY  DAWN. — Good  in  quality,  said  to  be  very  early, 
hardy,  and  productive.  Bunch  medium  ;  berry  full  me- 
dium, black,  sweet,  and  good. 

MOORE'S  EARLY. — Seen  at  the  exhibition  at  Rochester. 
Although  not  very  good  in  quality,  it  is  a  very  handsome 
bunch  and  berry,  and  seems  to  be  especially  valuable  at 
the  North,  on  account  of  its  extreme  earliness.  Bunch 
very  large  and  shouldered,  compact ;  berry  large,  resem- 
bling Wilder  in  size  and  form,  black,  fair  in  quality,  but 
not  high  flavored  or  tender  in  pulp.  Its  chief  value  seems 
to  be  its  early  ripening,  vigor,  and  hardiness. 

NIAGARA. — Seeds  planted  in  18G8,  first  fruited  by 
Hoag  &  Clark,  of  Lockport,  N.  Y.,  in  1872.  Cross  be- 
tween Concord  and  Cassady ;  bunch  very  large  and 
heavy,  compact ;  berry  large,  slightly  oblong,  semi-trans- 
parent, greenish-white,  bronzed  in  sun,  adheres  well 


WINE   MAKING.  47 

to  the  bunch,  flesh  tender,  sweet  and  melting,  good 
flavor,  skin  tough,  and -bears  handling  well  ;  said  to  be 
as  early  as  Hartford  in  ripening,  but  keeps  well  on  the 
vine ;  foliage  thick  and  healthy,  vine  strong  grower  and 
hardy,  bears  very  abundantly.  This  is  the  description 
of  the  originators.  They  say  that  a  vine  four  years 
planted,  is  bearing  40  Ibs.  of  superior  fruit.  I  saw  the 
grape  at  Kochester,  and  was  pleased  with  size  of  bunch, 
quality,  and  general  appearance.  A  promising  market 
grape. 

POCKLINGTON. — This  is,  certainly,  a  "  big  thing  "  ; 
though  not  of  the  best,  or  even  very  good  quality,  will  sell. 
A  seedling  from  Concord,  grown  by  John  Pocklington, 
of  Sandy  Hill,  Washington  Co.,  N.  Y.  Vine  a  strong 
grower,  with  immense  leaves,  very  heavy  in  texture,  and 
is  said  to  never  mildew.  Bunch  very  large  and  heavy, 
shouldered  ;  berry  nearly  an  inch  in  diameter,  pale  yellow, 
covered  with  bloom,  round,  quality  about  like  Concord. 
It  was  not  fully  ripe  when  I  saw  it.  Mr.  John  Chorlton, 
who  offers  it  for  sale,  claims  that  it  becomes  very  juicy 
and  sweet  to  the  center.  Very  promising  as  a  market 
grape. 

DUCHESS.  —  Originated  with  Mr.  N.  J.  Caywood, 
Ulster  Co.,  N.  Y.,  who  also  originated  the  Walter,  and  I 
will  only  hope  that  this  will  be  more  generally  successful. 
Bunch  medium  to  large,  often  8  inches  long,  shoulder- 
ed, compact ;  berry  medium,  round,  greenish- white  ; 
skin  thin,  flesh  tender,  without  pulp,  sprightly,  rich  and 
vinous.  Its  originator  claims  for  it  that  it  has  been 
grown  in  different  localities,  North  and  South,  for  the 
last  ten  years,  and  has  never  failed  ;  that  it  has  but  one 
small  seed,  that  it  will  hang  on  the  vines  until  frost,  bear 
transportation  better  than  any  other  variety,  and  that  it 
excels  in  growth  the  Concord,  Clinton,  and  Taylor. 
When  we  remember  how  Mr.  Caywood  also  claimed  su- 


48  AMERICAN  GRAPE  GROWING 

perior  excellence  and  hardiness  for  the  Walter,  which  has 
so  utterly  failed  in  most  sections  that  it  is  now  rarely 
seen,  we  would  accept  his  testimony  with  a  good  deal  of 
caution,  and  make  allowance  for  his  enthusiasm,  but  the 
quality  and  appearance  of  the  fruit,  as  we  saw  it,  certainly 
warrants  trial. 

PRENTISS. — This  is  now  in  the  hands  of  that  enter- 
prising grape-grower,  T.  S.  Hubbard,  of  Fredonia,  N.  Y., 
and  not  yet  offered  for  sale.  He  sent  me  a  bunch  in 
1878,  which  impressed  ms  very  favorably.  The  show  at 
Eochester  was  grand,  and  I  determined  to  see  it  on  the 
grounds  of  its  originator,  and  copy  from  the  notes  taken 
there.  Mr.  Prentiss  is  an  enthusiastic  grape-grower,  but 
very  cautious  in  recommending  anything  new,  which, 
perhaps,  has  kept  his  seedling  in  the  dark  so  long,  as  he 
has  fruited  it  for  nearly  twenty  years.  The  original  vine 
stands  in  rather  a  poor  location,  on  the  side  of  a  ravine, 
and  had  an  immense  load  of  fruit,  but  made  a  good 
growth  of  wood  nevertheless.  I  think  its  present  crop 
would  come  to  25  Ibs.  at  least.  The  bunches  were  all 
perfect,  though  backward  in  ripening.  It  is  a  seedling  of 
Isabella ;  bunch  medium,  very  compact,  occasionally 
shouldered ;  berry  medium,  slightly  oblong,  resembling 
Eebecca  very  closely,  and  about  the  same  quality,  green- 
ish-white ;  skin  tough  and  firm,  enabling  it  to  carry  to 
market  in  good  condition  ;  sweet  and  good,  though  not  of 
high  character.  Mr.  Prentiss  has  quite  a  number  of 
vines  of  it  in  bearing,  in  different  parts  of  the  vineyard, 
all  heavily  loaded.  Foliage  also  resembles  Rebecca,  but  is 
larger,  not  so  deeply  lobed,  thicker,  and  more  leathery. 
He  ships  to  New  York  markets,  and  readily  obtains  16 
cents  per  pound  for  all  he  can  send  of  the  Prentiss.  The 
particular  location  near  the  lake  may  have  something 
to  do  with  this  eminent  success,  but  the  grape  certainly 
deserves  trial  as  a  market  grape  in  other  sections.  I 
think  it  lacks  the  sprightliness  of  a  good  wine  grape. 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  51 

Mr.  Pentiss  has  also  two  other  seedlings,  which  I  think 
highly  promising,  not  yet  named,  of  which  I  made  the 
following  notes  : 

No.  1. — Bunch  very  compact,  seldom  shouldered,  me- 
dium ;  berry  medium,  round,  black,  with  blue  bloom, 
very  sweet,  pulp  tender,  buttery,  taste  pure,  without 
foxiness,  with  considerable  coloring  matter  in  its  skin. 
Eipens  fully  as  early  as  Concord ;  promising  for  red  wine ; 
vine  a  good  grower,  healthy,  and  productive ;  fruited 
about  5  years;  never  rotted. 

No.  2. — Bunch  long,  loose,  not  shouldered  ;  berr}, 
round,  a  trifle  larger  than  Catawba,  dark  red,  pulp 
tender,  vinous,  fine  flavor,  better  than  Catawba,  with  u, 
very  pleasant  mingling  of  acid  and  sweet ;  seems  to  V>e 
healthy  and  productive  ;  fruited  for  the  first  time. 

Mr.  Kicketts'  seedlings  : 

Foremost  among  these,  in  our  estimation,  is  the 

LADY  WASHINGTON,  which  is  a  magnificent  grape,  &nd 
its  robust  growth  and  large,  leathery  leaves,  give  promise 
of  health  elsewhere  as  well  as  in  its  native  locality.  The 
original  vine  has  now  fruited  five  seasons.  It  is  a  seed- 
ling of  Concord,  crossed  with  Allen's  Hybrid.  Bunch 
very  large  and  long,  rather  loose,  shouldered,  often 
weighing  a  pound  and  a  half  ;  berry  full  medium,  round, 
white,  with  a  rosy  tint  when  exposed  to  the  sun,  trans- 
parent, juicy,  sweet,  and  good. 

JEFFERSON. — This  is  now  in  the  hands  of  Mr.  J.  GL 
Burrows,  of  Fishkill.  Cross  between  Concord  and  lona. 
Vine  vigorous  and  productive,  leaves  large,  thick,  downy, 
wood  short-jointed  ;  bunch  very  large,  often  with  double 
shoulder,  very  compact  ;  berry  large,  roundish  oval, 
light  red,  with  thin  lilac  bloom,  flesh  meaty,  or  solid, 
tender,  juicy,  sweet,  but  sprightly. 

HIGHLAND. — Good  healthy  leaf;  large,  fine  bunch; 


52  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

berry  black,   large,   round,  very  showy,   and  good  in 
quality. 

EICKETTS'  No.  1. — A  hybrid  of  Israella  and  Muscat 
Hamburg,  fruited  for  10  years.  Vine  very  vigorous  and 
productive,  wood  short-jointed,  leaves  medium  sized, 
lobed,  thick,  and  overlap ;  bunch  very  large,  long,  com- 
pact, shouldered  ;  berry  large,  oval,  purplish-black,  with 
thick  gray  bloom,  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  rather  rich, 
very  good.  A  promising  market  grape. 

No.  11. — Hartford  and  Muscat.  Strong  grower,  leaf 
hardy  and  healthy  ;  bunch  medium,  shouldered  ;  berry 
above  medium,  round,  pale  yellow,  sweet,  pulp  soft, 
good. 

PLANET. — Concord  and  Black  Muscat  of  Alexandria. 
Healthy  and  productive ;  bunch  large,  loose,  shouldered  ; 
berry  large,  intermixed  with  some  smaller  ones,  which 
have  no  seed,  oblong,  very  tender  pulp,  juicy,  sweet,  fine 
flavor,  slight  taste  of  the  Muscat. 

No.  502. — Hartford  and  Tona.  Leaf  healthy ;  bunch 
compact,  heavy  ;  berry  medium,  black,  with  blue  bloom, 
leathery,  resembling  Creveling  in  taste. 

No.  250. — Ives  and  Catawba.  Strong  grower,  healthy 
leaf ;  bunch  heavy,  shouldered,  compact ;  berry  above 
medium,  round,  black,  blue  bloom  ;  skin  tough,  fair 
quality,  very  handsome,  would  be  a  splendid  shipping 
grape. 

No.  331. — Concord  and  Herbemont.  Foliage  resem- 
bling Concord,  healthy,  and  hardy  ;  bunch  medium,  com- 
pact, shouldered ;  berry  below  medium,  round,  juicy, 
rather  pulpy,  makes  a  fine,  red  wine,  with  a  slight  almond 
taste. 

These  are  the  most  promising  of  the  numerous  seed- 
lings of  the  Labrusca  and  its  hybrids  which  Mr.  Eicketts 
has  originated.  He  has  also  a  number  of  cordifolia  seed- 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  £3 

lings,  which  are  highly  promising,  and  to  which  I  will 
refer  when  I  describe  that  class. 

Mr.  Jacob  Madinger,  of  St.  Joseph,  Mo.,  has  several 
Concord  seedlings,  which  may  be  valuable  as  showy  and 
handsome  market  grapes  of  good  quality.  I  have  only 
seen  some  dilapidated  bunches,  too  ripe,  and  roughly 
handled  ;  the  berries  are  much  larger  than  Concord,  and 
seem  to  be  of  very  fair  quality. 

STORM  KING. — Originated  by  Mr.  E.  P.  Roe,  Corn- 
wall-on-the-Hudson,  N.  Y.  Seems  to  be  an  accidental 
sport  of  a  Concord  vine,  which,  as  he  says,  has  borne 
the  same  mammoth  fruit  for  twelve  years.  Bunch  large 
and  heavy,  shouldered ;  berry  resembling  Concord,  but 
nearly  twice  as  large,  black,  round,  with  very  little  foxi- 
ness;  juicy,  and  good. 

COTTAGE. — By  Mr.  Bull,  the  originator  of  the  Concord. 
This  is  very  promising,  seems  to  be  a  strong  grower, 
earlier  than  its  parent,  and  of  much  better  quality.  I 
hope  to  see  more  of  it  next  season. 

The  following  are  said  to  be  of  good  quality,  but  are 
not  sufficiently  known  to  me  to  venture  an  opinion  upon 
their  merits  :  Cambridge,  Challenge,  Clover  Street  Red 
and  Black,  Columbia,  Concord  Chasselas,  Concord  Mus- 
cat, Conqueror,  Dana,  Detroit,  Eureka,  Flora,  Gaertner, 
Herbert,  Irving,  Ithaca,  Pollock,  Rogers'  5,  Senasqua. 

The  following  I  consider  worthless,  and  think  they 
should  be  discarded,  as  we  can  certainly  grow  better,  or 
more  healthy  sorts.  Some  are  of  good  quality,  but 
tender  or  unproductive  and  unhealthy  :  Adirondack, 
Alexander,  Agawam,  Albino,  Allen's  Hybrid,  Amanda, 
Anna,  Arrott,  August  Pioneer,  Berks,  Bland,  Blood's 
Bkck,  Blue  Imperial,  Burton's  Early,  Camden,  Canby's 
August,  Cassady,  Charter  Oak,  Clara,  Macedonia,  Cow- 
an, Croton,  Diana,  Diana  Hamburg,  Dracut  Amber, 
Early  Hudson,  Elizabeth,  Framingham,  Graham,  Hart- 


54  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

ford,  Hettie,  Howell,  lona,  Isabella,  Israella,  King- 
sessing,  Labe,  Logan,  Lydia,  Lyman,  Creyeling,  Maguire, 
Mary,  Maxatawney,  Merrimac,  Miles,  Venango,  Mount 
Lebanon,  Mottled,  Neff,  North  America,  Northern  Mus- 
cadine, North  Carolina,  Rebecca,  Seneca,  St.  Catherine, 
Walter. 


CHAPTER    X. 

THE    JSSTIVALIS    CLASS.-FOR    GENERAL    CULTIVATION. 

CYNTHIANA. — Synonym,  Red  River.  This  most  valu- 
able grape  was  obtained  by  me  from  Wm.  R.  Prince,  who 
had  it  from  Arkansas,  and  introduced  it  into  Missouri 
about  1858.  It  resembled  the  Norton  so  much  in  growth 
and  foliage,  that  I  supposed  it  to  be  identical  with  it,  un- 
til it  bore  fruit,  and  more  especially  when  I  made  wine 
from  it,  when  the  difference  became  very  apparent.  Tins 
seeming  identity  has  prevented  its  dissemination,  as  many 
still  believe  it  to  be  the  same,  but  the  bunch  is  generally 
heavier,  with  broader  shoulders,  the  berry  somewhat 
larger,  sweeter,  and  less  astringent,  and  the  wine  is  not 
quite  as  dark,  less  rough  and  astringent,  without  that 
coffee-like  taste  of  the  Norton,  and  much  more  spicy  and 
delicate,  resembling  the  best  Burgundy.  Those  who 
have  tasted  good  Cynthiana  wine  once,  will  not  easily 
forget  it ;  and  the  fact  that,  besides  the  innumerable 
premiums  awarded  in  this  country,  it  was  awarded  the 
first  premium  as  "  best  red  wine  of  all  nations,"  at  the 
Vienna  Exposition,  should  speak  volumes  in  its  praise, 
and  warrant  the  belief,  so  often  expressed  by  me,  that  it 
will  become  one  of  the  staples  of  the  country,  and  can  not 
be  excelled  anywhere.  Bunch  medium,  compact,  shoul- 
dered ;  berry  below  medium,  black,  with  blue  bloom, 


Fig.  11.— OTNTHIANA. 


A:ND  WINE  MAKING.  57 

sweet,  and  vinous,  with  dark-red  juice,  moderately  juicy, 
very  rich.  Specific  gravity  of  must  118°.  Vine  a  good 
grower,  healthy,  and  hardy,  hut  does  not  grow  readily 
from  cuttings,  and  will  not  bear  much  before  the  third 
year,  when  it  becomes  very  productive  ;  not  liable  to  any 
disease,  and  one  of  the  surest  we  have  ;  will  bear  best  on 
spurs  on  old  wood,  like  the  Norton's. 

NOETON'S  VIBGINIA. — Synonyms,  Norton's  Seedling, 
Virginia  Seedling.  Introduced  by  Dr.  Norton,  of  Vir- 
ginia, who  found  it  on  an  island  in  the  Potomac.  Intro- 
duced into  Missouri  in  1850.  It  caused  a  revolution  in 
grape  culture  here,  as  its  merits  as  a  uniformly  reliable 
grape  for  red  wine  became  fully  known.  There  is,  per- 
haps, no  other  grape  which  has  given  such  uniform  satis- 
faction as  this,  and  although  I  have  warmly  praised  and 
recommended  it  from  the  first,  I  have  seen  no  reason  to 
retract  a  single  word  which  I  have  said  in  its  favor.  It 
seems  to  succeed  everywhere,  though  its  products,  of 
course,  differ,  and  I  had  occasion  to  admire  a  splendid 
exhibition  of  it  at  the  Centennial,  from  Egg  Harbor  City, 
New  Jersey,  where  I  first  saw  it,  and  had  occasion  to  try 
its  wine.  As  made  there,  it  has  not  the  heavy  character 
of  our  Missouri  Norton's,  but  is  a  very  good  Claret. 
Bunch  and  berry  smaller  than  Cynthiana,  and  not  so 
heavily  shouldered  ;  berry  small,  black,  with  blue  bloom, 
with  a  very  dark-colored,  astringent  juice,  though  sweet 
and  very  spicy  when  fully  ripe.  Specific  gravity  of  must 
110°.  Makes,  perhaps,  the  best  medicinal  wine  in  the 
country;  it  has  already  saved  thousands  of  lives,  especially 
of  children  suffering  with  summer  complaint,  and  ac- 
quired a  world- wide  reputation.  Even  as  a  table  grape, 
many  prefer  it  on  account  of  its  spicy  character,  and  its 
plump  bunches  will  keep  like  winter  apples.  Perfectly 
free  from  Phylloxera  and  other  diseases ;  a  strong  and 
healthy  grower;  bears  best  on  spurs  on  old  arms.  As 
it  starts  late  in  spring,  it  is  also  not  liable  to  spring  frosts. 


58  AMEBICAK   GBAPE   GEOWING 

HEEBEMONT. — Synonyms,  Warren,  Warrenton,  Herbe- 
mont's  Maderia.  A  specifically  Southern  grape,  for  which, 
we  in  Missouri  are  too  far  north,  but  where  it  is  in  its 
proper  latitude,  one  of  the  very  best.  Bunch  large  and 
heavy,  compact,  shouldered;  berry  below  medium,  black, 
with  blue  bloom ;  skin  thin,  no  pulp,  but  its  berries  are 
filled  with  the  most  spicy  and  refreshing  juice,  which  that 
nice  discriminator  of  fruits,  the  late  A.  J.  Downing, 
called  "bags  of  wine."  Fine  for  the  table,  and  when 
pressed  immediately,  makes  an  exquisite  white  wine  ;  if 
allowed  to  ferment  on  the  husks,  a  pale  red  wine,  some- 
what resembling  Madeira.  Should  be  planted  on  south- 
ern locations,  in  rather  poor  soil,  which  is  naturally  well 
drained  ;  it  is  useless  to  plant  it  on  rich  soils,  or  those 
retentive  of  moisture,  as  it  will  grow  too  rampant,  and 
not  ripen  its  wood.  My  friend,  Onderdonk,  of  Victoria, 
Texas,  writes  to  me,  that  it  is  the  best  and  most  success- 
ful grape  they  cultivate,  and  it  has  for  several  years  been 
largely  imported  into  France,  as  its  roots  are  Phylloxera 
proof,  and  it  succeeds  splendidly  there.  Ripens  rather 
late,  and  is  somewhat  tender  even  here.  It  promises  to 
make  the  foundation  of  a  race  of  true  wine  grapes,  and  if 
we  can  obtain  seedlings  of  it,  with  all  the  good  qualities 
of  the  parent,  but  somewhat  earlier  and  more  hardy,  they 
will  be  all  that  can  be  desired.  Mr.  Onderdonk  already 
reports  one  seedling,  the  Harvard,  in  all  respects  similar 
to  the  Herbemont,  but  double  the  size,  and  may  become 
exceedingly  valuable.  The  Herbemont  is  a  strong  and  very 
beautiful  grower,  very  productive,  but  somewhat  subject 
to  a  peculiar  kind  of  dry  rot.  Leaves  large  and  thin, 
light  green,  deeply  lobed.  Specific  gravity  of  must  85°. 


Fig.  12. — HERBEMONT 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  61 

CHAPTER    XL 

THE    ^ESTIVALIS    CLASS.— VARIETIES    PROMISING    WELL. 

CUNNINGHAM. — Synonym,  Long.  Much  like  the  fore- 
going in  bunch  and  berry,  belonging  to  the  southern 
branch  of  the  cestivalis  class.  Bunch  very  compact, 
heavy-shouldered ;  berry  smaller  than  Herbemont,  brown- 
ish red,  with  blue  bloom ;  skin  tougher  and  thicker, 
ripening  about  the  same  time.  Not  so  good  for  the 
table,  but  will  make  a  very  heavy  wine  of  a  Sherry  char- 
acter, while  the  Herbemout  is  more  like  Ehenish  wine. 
The  must  is  very  rich  in  sugar,  but  also  in  acid,  and  the 
grape  very  high  flavored.  A  very  strong,  short- jointed, 
late  grower,  ripening  not  even  as  well  as  the  Herbemont, 
and  should,  therefore,  be  cultivated  only  in  the  South. 
It  succeeds  splendidly  in  France,  and  is  very  highly 
esteemed  there  for  its  fruit,  as  well  as  its  total  resistance 
to  Phylloxera.  It  has  heart-shaped  leaves,  not  lobed. 
Specific  gravity  of  must  110°. 

LENOIK. —  Synonyms,  Devereaux,  Black  Spanish, 
Jacques,  Jack  Grape.  There  has  been  a  great  deal  of 
confusion  about  this  grape,  and  it  has  even  been  con- 
founded with  the  Ohio,  or  Cigar  Box,  but  I  think  the 
above  is  its  true  name.  It  is  the  same  which  the 
French  have  cultivated  as  Black  Spanish,  or  Jacques,  and 
value  so  highly,  owing  to  its  success  in  France  ;  its  entire 
freedom  from  Phylloxera,  and  the  excellent  red  wine  it 
makes.  I  have  been  thoroughly  sifting  the  question  of 
its  identity,  and  Mr.  Onderdonk,  who  says  it  is  the 
best  grape  they  grow  in  Texas,  next  to  the  Herbemont, 
has  been  indefatigable  in  his  exertions  to  help  me  clear 
up  this  matter.  It  is  even  more  southern  in  its  character 
than  the  two  foregoing.  Bunch  very  long,  loose,  shoul- 


62  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

dered  ;  berry  small,  black,  with  blue  bloom  ;  skin  as  thin 
as  Herbemont,  no  pulp,  juice  very  dark  red,  sweet,  and 
rich,  making  a  splendid  deep  red  wine  of  exquisite  flavor. 
Specific  gravity  of  must  110°.  I  have  cultivated  the  vine 
for  a  number  of  years,  but  had  to  abandon  it,  as  it  evi- 
dently is  too  far  north  here  ;  in  the  South  it  must  be 
very  desirable.  Vine  a  strong,  rather  long-jointed 
grower,  wood  brown,  leaves  very  thin,  bright  green, 
deeply  lobed. 

HERMANN. — A  seedling  of  the  Norton,  grown  by  Mr. 
Francis  Langendoerfer,  Hermann,  Mo.  Bunch  long, 
shouldered,  moderately  compact  ;  berry  smaller  than 
Norton's,  black,  with  blue  bloom,  not  very  juicy,  but 
very  high  flavored,  juice  not  so  dark,  and  will  make  a 
fine  golden  Sherry  wine,  if  properly  handled.  It  ripens 
later  than  Norton's,  and  as  it  is  a  strong  grower  and  very 
productive,  is  certainly  worthy  of  extensive  trial  here  and 
further  south.  Specific  gravity  of  must  110°.  Mr. 
Langendoerfer  has  grown  a  white  seedling  of  it,  resem- 
bling the  parent  in  berry  and  bunch,  but  of  a  transparent, 
golden  color,  of  which  I  have  tried  the  wine,  and  must 
pronounce  it  the  most  exquisite  wine  I  ever  tasted,  of  a  pale 
yellow  color,  with  the  Hermann  flavor  trebly  refined.  He 
also  has  a  white  Norton's  Seedling,  which  also  makes 
fine  wine,  and  as  these  two  are  the  first  white  cestivalis 
yet  produced,  they  promise  a  new  departure  in  another 
direction  from  this  valuable  class.  Very  productive, 
healthy,  and  hardy  at  Sedalia  last  season. 

RULANDER. — This  is  not  the  German  grape  of  this 
name,  but  also  one  of  the  southern  mstivalis  class.  It 
also  makes  a  very  fine  wine,  of  a  Sherry  character,  but 
has,  of  late,  become  rather  unproductive.  Bunch  small, 
compact,  shouldered ;  berry  small,  brownish  black,  with 
blue  bloom,  very  sweet,  and  high  flavored.  Specific 
gravity  of  must  112°.  It  is  a  stocky,  short-jointed 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  63 

grower,  with  grayish  wood,  heart-shaped,  shining  leaves, 
and  sometimes  very  productive,  but  rather  fickle  and 
variable.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  Louisiana,  which 
so  closely  resembles  it  that  it  has  been  confounded  with 
it,  but  the  wine  of  the  Louisiana  resembles  a  very  fine 
Hock,  while  the  Rulander  has  a  Sherry  character. 

ALVEY,  OR  HAGAR. — An  exquisite  little  grape,  the 
earliest  of  that  class  ;  so  good  that  the  birds  will  gener- 
ally take  it  all.  Bunch  medium,  shouldered,  loose  ;  berry 
small,  shining  black ;  skin  thin,  very  juicy,  sweet  and 
luscious,  one  of  the  best  in  quality  I  know,  and  makes  a 
fine  red  wine.  Specific  gravity  of  must  90°.  A  stocky, 
short-jointed  grower,  with  heart-shaped  leaves,  and  about 
the  only  one  of  its  class  which  propagates  readily  from 
cuttings. 

LINCOLN. — This  I  suppose  to  be  identical  with  Black 
July.  Mr.  Phifer,  of  Concord,  North  Carolina,  where  it 
is  considerably  cultivated,  gives  it  very  high  praise,  as 
being  productive  and  healthy,  and  making  a  fine,  high- 
flavored,  light-red  wine.  I  have  grafts  of  it  grow- 
ing ;  it  has  heart-shaped  leaves,  and  seems  to  be  a  good 
healthy  grower. 

BALDWIN  LENOIR. — Mr.  Saunders,  Supt.  of  Public 
Grounds,  at  Washington,  thinks  very  highly  of  this, 
and  as  it  has  fruited  for  me  last  year,  I  can  also  testify 
to  its  good  quality.  The  vine  resembles  the  Norton, 
in  wood  and  leaf.  Bunch  small,  very  compact,  shoul- 
dered ;  berry  small,  round,  black,  with  blue  bloom,  also 
resembling  Norton,  but  to  my  taste  sweeter,  more  juicy, 
and  high  flavored.  I  have  no  doubt  it  will  make  a  first 
class  red  wine,  and  should  it  prove  as  productive  as  the 
Norton  and  Cynthiana,  will  be  very  valuable. 

NEOSHO. — This  is  a  wild  grape  from  the  woods,  culti- 
vated by  Mr.  Hermann  Jaeger,  of  Neosho,  Mo.  That 
veteran  in  grape  culture,  Fr.  Muench,  of  Warren  Co. , 


64  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

Mo. ,  thinks  this  one  of  the  best  grapes  he  cultivates.  It 
is  a  strong,  rampant  grower,  very  productive,  but  like 
all  of  its  class,  very  difficult  to  propagate.  Bunch  heavy, 
compact,  shouldered  ;  berry  below  medium,  purplish- 
black,  with  blue  bloom,  not  very  juicy  ;  the  juice  is  of  a 
much  lighter  red  than  that  of  the  Norton,  and  has  a  diff- 
erent flavor,  more  resembling  Sherry.  There  has  been 
some  confusion  between  this  and  the  Kacine,  of  same 
origin,  but  I  think  the  Neosho  much  more  valuable  than 
Racine. 

FAR  WEST.  —  Mr.  Muench  also  speaks  very  highly 
of  this  variety,  which  comes  from  the  same  neighborhood, 
and  I  place  great  confidence  in  his  judgment. 

Mr.  Jaeger  recently  sent  me  a  box  of  eight  varieties  of 
grapes,  and  although  I  tested  them  nearly  three  weeks 
after  they  had  been  sent,  I  was  surprised  to  find,  even 
after  so  long  a  time,  such  evidences  of  decided  merit. 
I  give  descriptions  of  them  as  they  appeared  to  me  then, 
and  have  no  doubt  that,  under  the  circumstances,  it  falls 
far  short  of  what  they  are  when  fresh  from  the  vine.  As 
they  all  come  from  the  same  stock,  the  wild  cestivaUs, 
they  show  perhaps  as  much  improvement  as  those  of  any 
other  class. 

JAEGER'S  No.  9.  — Bunch  compact,  shouldered  ;  berry 
below  medium,  round,  black,  with  blue  bloom,  fine  flavor, 
sweet,  and  good.  Promising  for  wine. 

JAEGER'S  No.  13. — Bunch  large  and  heavy,  compact, 
shouldered ;  berry  medium,  black,  pulpy,  dark  juice, 
good  flavor.  Promising  for  red  wine. 

JAEGER'S  No.  22. — Bunch  very  heavy,  large,  and  long, 
compact  ;  berry  about  size  of  Catawba,  round,  deep 
purple,  sweet,  and  good.  Not  as  dark  a  juice  as  9  and  13. 

JAEGER'S  No.  32. — Very  similar  to  Norton's,  but  ex- 
ceedingly sweet ;  must  make  a  very  heavy,  dark  colored 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  65 

RACINE. — The  least  valuable,  yery  sweet,  but  small 
berry,  very  pulpy,  and  full  of  seeds. 

NEOSHO. — Larger  bunch  and  berry  than  Racine,  more 
juicy,  fine  flavor,  bunch  and  berry  larger  than  Norton's, 
lighter  colored  juice. 

WHITE  NORTON. — Originated  with  F.  Langendoerfer, 
near  Hermann,  Mo.  Bunch  and  berry  resembling  Nor- 
ton in  size,  but  white  ;  sweet,  fine  flavor,  and  very  juicy. 

BALSIGER'S  WHITE  NORTON. — Berry  larger  than  the 
preceding,  more  juicy,  fine  flavor,  resembling  Elvira 
somewhat,  very  good. 

Discarded  Varieties. — Baxter,  Ohio,  Pauline,  Raabe. 
These  are  either  too  unhealthy,  or  of  too  poor  quality  to 
be  worthy  of  cultivation. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

CORDIFOLIA    CLASS   (or  BIPABIA,  according  to  Engelmann). 

This  class,  so  far  only  represented  by  varieties  of  either 
indifferent  quality,  such  as  Clinton,  Anghwick,  Blue 
Dyer,  Burroughs,  Franklin,  Huntingdon,  Kitchen,  Newr 
ark,  Marion,  Oporto,  or  such  as  are  rather  unproductive 
or  subject  to  disease,  as  the  Autuchon,  Brant,  Canada, 
Cornucopia,  Golden  Clinton,  and  Taylor,  also  has  taken 
a  new  departure,  with  the  seedlings  from  Taylor,  raised 
by  Mr.  Jacob  Rommel,  and  now  promises  to  furnish  us 
the  leading  white  wine  grapes  of  the  country,  and  like- 
wise valuable  market  grapes.  Had  their  originator  pro- 
duced nothing  but  the  Elvira,  he  would  be  remembered  by 
generations  to  come,  but  he  is  confident  that  he  can  still 


66  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

surpass  it  in  quality,  if  not  in  productiveness  and  hardi- 
ness, for  tho  latter  would  be  impossible.  Guided  by  the 
idea  that  the  Taylor  need  only  bo  improved  in  size  and 
productiveness,  as  its  wine  was  good  enough,  he  sowed 
the  seed  of  the  best  Taylor  grapes  he  could  find,  and 
now,  after  nine  years  of  trial  with  the  Elvira,  in  which  it 
has  never  missed  an  abundant  crop,  and  after  careful 
tests  of  the  wine,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  call  it  the  most 
useful,  and  in  that  sense,  the  best  white  grape  we  have, 
and  were  I  restricted  to  one  variety  only,  would  unhesi- 
tatingly choose  this.  As  it  is  not  near  as  well  known  as 
it  deserves  to  be,  I  will  give  a  full  description  of  it,  and  I 
think  I  can  do  the  grape-growers  of  our  country  no  greater 
service,  than  in  prevailing  upon  them  all  to  try  it. 

ELVIRA.  —  Originated  with  3Tr.  Jacob  Rommel,  of 
Morrison,  Mo. ,  from  seed  of  the  Taylor,  and  fruited  first 
in  1869,  but  has  since  improved  every  year  in  size  of 
bunch  and  berry,  until,  from  a  very  small  berry,  with 
small  but  compact  bunch,  it  has  now  become  as  large  as 
Catawba  in  berry,  and  almost  as  large  in  bunch.  Every 
one  should  plant  it  for  the  following  seven  reasons  : 

1.  Its  extreme  hardiness.     It  has  withstood  the  ex- 
tremely cold  winters  of  1872-'73  and  1874-'75,  without 
the  slightest  injury  ;    when  even  the  Concord  suffered 
more  or  less  everywhere  throughout  the  State,  the  Elvira 
produced  a  full  crop. 

2.  Its  freedom  from  disease.     It  has  proved  singularly 
healthy  and  produced  full  crops  for  ten  years  in  succes- 
sion ;  when  nearly  all  varieties  rotted  badly  (except  Ives, 
Norton's,  Cynthiana,  and  some  other  seedlings  of  Mr. 
Eommel,  of  whom  I  shall  speak  hereafter),  the  Elvira 
produced  a  full  crop,  averaging,  in  Mr.  Rommel's  vine- 
yard, from  20  to  25  Ibs.  to  the  vine. 

3.  Its  immense  productiveness.     All  the  fruit-bearing 
branches  produce  from  four  to  six  bunches,  and  a  piece 


:.  13.— ELVIRA. 


(67) 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  69 

of  a  bearing  cane  with  clusters  about  a  foot  long,  weighed 
eight  pounds. 

4.  Its  handsome  and  vigorous  growth.     It  is  a  stocky, 
short-jointed  grower,  not  rambling,  like  the  Taylor  and 
Clinton,  but  a  perfect  picture  of  a  vine,  having  thick, 
light  green  and  abundant  foliage,  with  pale  gray,  short- 
jointed  wood,  and  is,  therefore,  well  adapted  to  vineyard 
and  arbor  culture. 

5.  Its  handsome  bunch  and  berry.     This  has  improved 
very  much  since  it  first  fruited,  and  may  still  improve. 
Bunch  medium,  shouldered,  very  compact ;  berry  about 
the  size  of  the  Catawba,  round,  light  green  in  the  shade, 
pale  yellow  where  more  exposed,  transparent;  skin,  thin, 
pulp  tender,  very  juicy  and  sweet;  flavor  fine,  pure,  with- 
out foxiness,  ripening  a  few  days  later  than  Concord. 

6.  Its  fine  quality  for  wine.     The  must  of  the  Elvira  is 
about  as  heavy  as  good  Catawba,  if  well  ripened.    Specific 
gravity  85°.      Makes  a  beautiful  greenish-yellow  wine, 
without  foxiness,  and  a  delicate  and  full  aroma,  resemb- 
ling Riesling.      In  this  respect  it  will  satisfy  even  the 
most  fastidious  fancier  of  Ehenish  wines,  and  as  it  can  be 
produced  cheaply,  we  shall  have  in  it  what  we  have  been 
seeking  so  long,  a  true  wine  grape  within  the  reach  of  all. 

7.  Easy  propagation.     It  grows  readily  from  cuttings, 
and  being  a  Taylor  seedling,  is  likely  to  be  Phylloxera 
proof,  and  remain  healthy. 

We  are,  however,  in  justice,  compelled  to  say,  that  it 
has  one  fault,  which  has  proved  a  serious  drawback  to  it 
in  the  East  during  the  season  of  1879.  The  bunch  is  so 
compact,  that  the  berries  crowd  each  other,  and  being 
very  thin  skinned,  they  are  liable  to  crack  after  a  drouth, 
succeeded  by  a  shower  of  rain.  Otherwise,  it  has  proved 
a  complete  success,  even  at  the  East. 


70  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

THE    CORDIFOLIA    CLASS.— VARIETIES    PROMISING    WELL. 

The  following  are  sisters  of  the  Elvira,  and  may  sur- 
pass it  in  quality,  but  have  not  been  so  long  and  gener- 
ally tried ;  moreover  Mr.  Rommel  does  not  intend  to 
send  them  out  immediately,  if  at  all,  for  he  says  :  "  They 
shall  prove  best  in  every  respect,  or  not  go  out  at  all, 
as  the  public  have  already  varieties  enough,  even  too 
many,  unless  we  can  add  to  the  number  something  much 
better  than  we  already  have.  There  shall  be  no  humbug 
in  my  grapes."  They  have  fruited  six  years  now,  and  I 
also  have  them  fruiting  this  summer,  in  an  entirely  differ- 
ent locality  ;  two  seasons  of  further  trial  will  fully  show 
what  they  are.  No  one  need  apply,  either  to  him  or  me, 
for  any  vines  or  wood  until  some  months  yet. 

No.  5.  TRANSPARENT. — (Taylor  seedling).  Bunch 
medium,  somewhat  larger  than  the  largest  Taylor,  and 
has  increased  in  size  already,  compact,  and  shouldered  ; 
berry  about  same  size  as  Taylor,  round,  pale  yellow,  trans- 
parent, so  that  the  seeds  can  be  seen,  with  gray  dots,  no 
pulp,  skin  thin,  very  juicy,  sweet,  and  of  fine  flavor. 
This  has  always  set  its  fruit  perfectly,  and  as  its  must 
contains  a  large  amount  of  saccharine  matter,  will  make  a 
wine  which  has  hardly  had  its  equal  yet.  Vine  a  strong 
and  rather  long-jointed  grower,  resembling  its  parent  in 
leaf  and  growth. 

No.  8.  AMBER. — (Taylor  seedling).  Bunch  large, 
shouldered,  moderately  compact ;  berry  medium,  oblong, 
pale  amber  when  fully  ripe,  sweet,  juicy  ;  pulp  very  ten- 
der ;  skin  thin,  very  fine  flavor.  Ripens  about  the  same 
time  as  Oatawba,  very  productive  so  far,  and  entirely 
hardy  and  healthy.  An  exquisite  table  grape,  combining 
fine  quality  with  attractive  appearance,  though  its  skin 


Fig.   14. — AMBEI 


(71) 


AHD   WItfE   MAKIKG.  73 

may  be  too  tender  to  ship  to  distant  markets.  It  will, 
no  doubt,  also  make  a  very  fine  white  wine.  A  strong 
grower,  dark  brown  wood,  large  and  healthy  leaves. 

No.  10.  PEAKL. — (Taylor  seedling).  Bunch  heavy, 
larger  than  Elvira,  compact,  shouldered ;  berry  full  me- 
dium, round,  pale  yellow,  covered  with  a  delicate  bloom; 
skin  thin  and  transparent;  pulp  soft  and  melting,  juicy, 
sweet,  and  high  flavored;  of  great  promise  both  as  a  table 
and  wine  grape ;  very  productive  and  healthy  so  far. 
Eipens  a  few  days  later  than  Concord.  Vine  a  strong 
healthy  grower,  large,  bright  green  leaves,  and  grayish 
wood. 

Mr.  R.  has  a  great  number  of  other  seedlings.  One,  a 
Delaware  seedling,  black,  which  ripens  four  or  five  days 
before  the  Hartford,  and  may  become  valuable  as  an  early 
market  grape,  as  it  is  of  good  quality.  No.  12,  much  re- 
sembling Elvira,  may  also  be  valuable. 

No.  20. — A  black  Taylor  seedling,  with  a  peculiar  plum- 
like  consistency  and  flavor,  very  agreeable.  Another  ac- 
cidental seedling  which  Mrs.  Rommell  found  and  saved, 
is  the  most  delicate  berry  I  ever  saw,  with  a  skin  as  thin 
and  transparent  as  cobwebs,  pale  green,  no  pulp,  and 
very  sweet ;  flavor,  pure.  So  far  the  bunch  is  very  loose, 
though  it  sets  an  immense  number  of  them.  Mr.  Rom- 
mel made  some  wine  of  it  this  fall,  which  he  thinks  the 
finest  he  has  yet  tasted.  Should  the  bunch  improve,  it 
may  become  one  of  our  most  valuable  wine  grapes. 

No.  14.  —A  black  Taylor  seedling,  which  promises  very 
highly  for  red  wine.  A  seedling  of  the  Elvira,  which  he 
thinks  far  superior  to  its  parent,  has  fruited  but  once, 
and  shows  evidences  of  great  merit. 

UHLAND. — This  is  another  Taylor   seedling,   highly 

promising  for  white  wine,  grown  by  Mr.  Wm.  "Weyde- 

meyer,  at   Hermann.     It  makes  a  heavier   and   higher 

flavored  wine  than  Elvira,  but  the  leaf  is  hardly  so  heavy 

4 


74  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

and  healthy,  suffering  more  from  sun  scald.  Bunch  me- 
dium, compact,  shouldered ;  berry  medium,  pale  yellow 
in  the  shade,  pale  amber  in  the  sun,  slightly  oblong  ;  skin 
thin,  transparent;  juicy,  and  high  flavored.  Very  pro- 
ductive and  hardy,  and  generally  healthy.  Vine  a  strong, 
somewhat  long-jointed  grower,  wood  grayish,  leaf  re- 
sembling Taylor.  Specific  gravity  of  must  95°.  Has 
fruited  for  four  or  five  years,  and  the  wine  is  highly 
praised  by  connoisseurs,  as  resembling  heavy  Rhenish 
wine. 

MISSOURI  RIESLING.  —  This  was  originated  by  Mr. 
Nicolas  G  rein,  of  Gasconade  Co. ,  Mo.  It  is  evidently  a  Tay- 
lor seedling,  and  has  proved  very  hardy,  healthy,  and  pro- 
ductive wherever  tried.  Vine  vigorous  and  very  healthy  ; 
leaves  thick  and  healthy ;  a  short-jointed  grower,  very 
productive.  Bunch  medium,  moderately  compact,  shoul- 
dered ;  berry  rather  below  medium,  round,  greenish- 
white,  juicy,  and  free  from  pulp ;  fine  quality ;  said  to 
make  an  exquisite  white  wine. 

NOAH. — Originated  by  Edward  Wasserzieher,  Nauvoo, 
111.,  from  seed  of  the  Taylor.  Bunch  medium,  shoul- 
dered, moderately  compact ;  berry  medium,  round,  pale 
yellow,  with  white  bloom  ;  very  sweet,  but  rather  hard 
pulp,  good  flavor  ;  said  to  be  very  productive  and  hardy. 

The  following  are  Clinton  seedlings,  grown  by  Mr. 
James  H.  Ricketts,  of  Newburgh,  N.  Y. : 

PIZARRO. — Seedling  of  Clinton  and  a  foreign  grape, 
foliage  resembling  Clinton,  productive;  bunch  long,  rather 
loose  ;  berry  medium,  oblong,  black,  very  juicy  and  spicy ; 
promising  for  wine.  A  sample  of  wine  made  from  it  was 
of  light  red  color,  with  very  fine  aroma. 

BACCHUS. — Very  healthy,  and  enormously  productive, 
as  the  original  vine  bore  about  1,000  bunches  this  season, 
all  perfect.  In  1877,  the  same  vine  yielded  nine  gallons 
and  a  quart  of  juice  ;  a  seedling  of  Clinton,  which  it  re- 


AKD   WIKE   MAKING.  75 

sembles  in  leaf,  bunch,  and  berry,  but  is  much  better. 
Bunch  medium,  compact,  shouldered  ;  berry  below  me- 
dium, black,  with  blue  bloom;  juicy,  and  sprightly.  The 
must  weighs  from  95°  to  110°.  Some  wine  from  it  which 
I  tasted,  was  brownish-red,  sprightly,  very  heavy,  and  of 
fine  flavor. 

ARIADNE. — Clinton  seedling  ;  promising  for  wine,  but 
so  overloaded  that  it  could  hardly  be  called  a  fair  test ; 
bunch  compact,  resembling  Clinton,  but  very  much  bet- 
ter, very  juicy  and  sweet ;  juice  dark.  Some  wine  I 
tasted  was  light-red,  very  heavy,  with  fine  flavor. 

NAOMI. — Vine  vigorous,  very  productive,  a  hybrid  of 
Clinton  and  one  of  the  Muscats,  fruited  ten  years,  leaves 
very  large,  coarsely  serrated.  Bunch  very  large,  shoul- 
dered ;  berry  medium,  roundish  oval,  pale  green,  often 
with  a  tinge  of  red  in  the  sun,  covered  with  white  bloom; 
flesh  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  and  sprightly ;  ripens  with 
the  Concord. 

No.  234. — A  white  grape,  with  foliage  like  Clinton ; 
makes  a  very  fine,  deep  yellow  wine  with  a  slight  Sherry 
flavor. 

No.  231. — Clinton  hybridized  with  foreign.  Vine  pro- 
ductive ;  makes  a  straw-colored  wine,  somewhat  sweet ; 
must  104°,  fine  flavor. 

No.  413. — A  seedling  of  Bacchus.  Vine  vigorous  and 
healthy.  Bunch  medium,  compact,  seldom  shouldered  ; 
berry  medium,  black,  with  blue  bloom,  spicy,  and  very 
sweet ;  promising  for  light-red  wine,  and  as  a  good  table 
grape. 

These  are  the  most  promising  of  Mr.  Eicketts'  grapes 
that  I  saw.  He  has  a  multitude  of  others,  all  fine,  but 
either  not  healthy  enough,  or  not  good  enough  in  quality, 
to  compare  with  these.  How  they  will  do  in  other  sec- 
tions and  on  other  soil  remains  to  be  proved,  but  at  his 
place  tkey  certainly  are  very  fine. 


70  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

The  success  of  Mr.  Ricketts  in  producing  quality,  at 
least,  from  the  Clinton,  has  been  as  marked  as  that  of 
Mr.  Rommel,  and  should  some  of  his  seedlings  prove 
generally  successful,  the  Clinton  may  become  the  pro- 
genitor of  as  valuable  a  class  of  red,  as  the  Taylor  of  white 
wines.  Some  of  the  samples  I  tested  with  him,  were  very 
fine  indeed,  and  entirely  distinct  from  anything  tasted  by 
me  before,  while  all  show  extraordinary  keeping  qualities. 
Taking  into  consideration  the  small  quantities  in  which 
these  wines  were  made,  and  all  the  disadvantages  under 
which  he  labored  in  producing  them,  they  were  some- 
thing remarkable  indeed.  I  have  already  referred  to  the 
varieties  which  I  think  ought  to  be  discarded,  now  that 
we  have  so  many  better  ones,  but  we  ought  to  hold  the 
Taylor  and  Clinton  in  grateful  remembrance,  for  the  off- 
spring they  have  given  us,  and  as  nearly  all  of  them  seem 
to  have  Phylloxera-proof  roots,  we  may  look  to  the 
CBstivalis  and  cordifolia  as  likely  to  become  the  founda- 
tion of  the  new  era  of  viticulture  for  the  whole  civilized 
world.  California,  which  seems  to  be  the  home  par  ex- 
cellence of  the  vinifera,  is  now  importing  our  cordifolia 
and  CBstivalis  varieties.  Her  vineyards  are  threatened  by 
as  wide-spread  a  devastation  as  those  of  France,  and  as 
the  cordifolia  has  the  advantage  of  easy  propagation  and 
rank  growth  over  the  cestivalis,  which  is  difficult  to  prop- 
agate, we  may  naturally  suppose  that  this  class  will  take 
the  lead.  Verily,  this  country  has  seen  great  changes 
within  the  last  ten  years,  and  in  none  of  the  fruits  have 
these  been  more  marked  than  in  the  grape. 


AND   WIKE   MAKING.  7? 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

VARIETIES    DIFFICULT    TO    CLASSIFY,    ETC. 

I  think  that  the  following  may  be  crosses  between  the 
cestivalis  and  vinifera,  as  they  are  distinct  from  all  others, 
possessing  some  of  the  characteristics  of  both  these  classes, 
and  are  very  subject  to  the  attacks  of  Phylloxera. 

CREVELING. — Synonyms,  Catawissa  Bloom,  Columbia 
County,  Bloomsburg,  Laura  Beverly.  Vine  hardy,  a  mod- 
erate grower  and  bearer,  with  thin,  deeply-lobed  leaves: 
Bunch  medium,  shouldered,  loose  ;  berry  medium,  round, 
black,  with  blue  bloom,  nearly  as  early  as  Hartford,  sweet, 
and  good,  carries  well  to  market,  but  is  apt  to  set  imper- 
fectly. Supposed  to  have  originated  in  Pennsylvania ; 
not  desirable  in  most  sections. 

DELAWARE. — Synonyms,  Heath,  Italian  Wine,  German 
Grape,  Traminer  (erroneously).  Downing  says  :  "  It  was 
found  many  years  ago  in  the  garden  of  Paul  H.  Prevost, 
French  town,  Hunterdon  Co.,  N.  J."  It  may  be  a  hy- 
brid of  vinifera  and  mstivalis,  but  is  certainly  not  the 
Traminer  of  Germany,  as  was  claimed  by  some.  It  was 
introduced  by  Mr.  Thompson,  of  Delaware,  Ohio,  and 
extensively  propagated  and  unduly  praised  by  Dr.  Grant, 
of  lona  Island,  New  York,  who  urged  it  for  general  cul- 
tivation through  the  country.  The  sequel  has  shown 
how  little  it  was  adapted  to  general  culture.  It  seems 
to  do  very  well  in  certain  localities  East  and  North,  and 
where  it  does,  it  is  certainly  a  nice  little  grape,  sweet 
and  luscious  for  the  table,  and  makes  a  fine  wine.  In 
the  West  and  Soutlj  it  has  not  generally  given  much 
satisfaction,  as  its  leaf  seems  too  tender  to  withstand  our 
hot  suns  and  sudden  changes.  It  is  also  very  subject  to 
Phylloxera,  almost  as  much  so  as  a  vim f era,  but  could, 
perhaps,  be  improved  by  grafting  on  healthy  and  hardy 


78  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

stocks.  It  needs  a  rich,  sandy  soil,  and  close  pruning,  as 
it  is  exceedingly  productive,  apt  to  overbear  and  then  drop 
its  leaves.  Bunch  below  medium,  compact,  shouldered  ; 
berry  below  medium,  oblong,  pale  red,  with  beautiful 
lilac  bloom  ;  skin  not  thick,  but  tough,  very  sweet,  high 
flavored,  and  juicy.  Ripens  before  the  Concord.  Spe- 
cific gravity  of  must  100°. 

PURITY. — I  think  I  must  also  place  Mr.  Campbell's 
little  grape  in  this  class,  as  it  is  very  evidently  a  seedling 
of  Delaware.  I  saw  it,  for  the  first  time,  at  the  Cen- 
tennial, and  as  he  says  it  is  hardy,  healthy,  and  produc- 
tive, it  may  become  a  valuable  wine  grape.  I  think  it 
well  named.  Bunch  small,  rather  loose,  shouldered  ; 
berry  below  medium,  pale  yellow,  transparent,  sweet,  and 
juicy,  with  no  trace  of  foxiness  or  native  flavor  discerni- 
ble. I  have  no  doubt  it  would  make  a  delightful  wine. 

VITIS  VULPINA,  THE   SCUPPERNONG. 

It  may  be  expected  that  I  shall  say  something  about 
this  class,  of  which  some  of  our  Southern  readers  expect 
so  much.  I  will  simply  observe  that  I  have  tried  to 
cultivate,  and  once  fruited  the  Scuppernong,  or  South- 
ern Muscadine,  but  found  it  entirely  useless,  and  all  the 
correspondence  I  have  had  with  Southern  grape-growers 
has  led  me  to  the  belief  that  we  cannot  expect  real 
grapes,  worthy  of  the  name,  from  that  class,  nor  from 
the  Mustang  of  Texas.  The  Scuppernong  and  its  vari- 
eties differ  entirely,  in  all  their  habits,  from  all  other 
grapes.  The  fruit  drops  as  soon  as  ripe,  is  deficient  in 
sugar,  has  a  very  tough  pulp,  and  strong  flavor.  I  ven- 
ture to  assert,  that  another  decade  will  see  these  grapes 
dropped  from  the  roll  altogether. 

I  do  not  write  for  our  friends  on  the  Pacific  coast. 
They  have  so  far  cultivated  mainly  the  vimfera,  and  have 
a  different  climate  and  soil,  so  it  would  be  preposterous 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  79 

for  me  to  try  and  give  them  advice.  I  will  say  this  much, 
however,  that  I  have  tried  a  great  many  wines  of  their 
make,  and  although  there  is  a  vast  improvement  percepti- 
ble lately  in  the  quality  of  their  products,  yet  they  are  all 
too  heavy  to  suit  the  palate  of  the  true  connoisseur  in 
wines.  It  is  an  old  established  fact,  that  the  true  bouquet 
wines  are  only  grown  in  the  temperate  zones,  and  there 
is  a  certain  amount  of  acid  necessary  in  the  must  to  de- 
velop bouquet  in  fermentation.  Moreover,  the  Phylloxera 
is  busy  at  work  there,  and  I  fully  believe,  from  all  the 
knowledge  I  can  gain  of  the  habits  of  that  little  devasta- 
tor, that  they  will  be  compelled  to  resort  to  our  cestivalis 
and  cordifolia  varieties,  to  regenerate  their  failing  vine- 
yards, as  we  have  already  seen  it  done  in  France.  The 
day  may  not  be  so  .far  distant,  when  the  despised  grape  of 
North  America  will  become  the  only  hope  of  the  failing 
grape-growers  of  all  nations.  Let  us  then  do  our  best  to 
furnish  such  material  as  will  be  an  honor  to  the  country, 
and  carry  the  fame  of  the  "  Wineland  "  of  the  old  legend 
through  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  earth. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

VARIETIES    FOR    DIFFERENT    LOCALITIES. 

I  will  now  try  to  give  a  list  of  varieties  for  table  and 
market  and  one  for  wine,  for  the  three  sections  of  coun- 
try, Eastern  and  North-Eastern  States,  Middle  and  West- 
ern States,  and  Southern  States.  I  do  not  pretend 
that  it  should  be  a  complete  guide,  for  great  allowance 
must  always  be  made  for  soil  and  location,  and  no  one  a 
thousand  miles  away  can  give  so  good  advice  to  a  novice, 
as  he  can  gather  in  the  nearest  vineyards  by  actual  ob- 
servation, provided  he  can  consult  any  of  his  neighbors. 


80  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

'%*? 

VARIETIES  FOR  NORTH  OF  LATITUDE  43°. 

MOST  HARDY  AND  PRODUCTIVE  FOR  TABLE  AND  MAE- 
KET. — Perkins,  Massasoit,  Wilder,  Delaware,  Martha, 
Concord,  Elvira,  Lindley,  Telegraph. 

Promising  Well. — Lady,  Early  Champion,  Aminia, 
Essex,  Black  Eagle,  Amber,  Pearl,  Beauty,  Brighton. 

FOR  WINE. — General  Cultivation. — Delaware,  Elvira, 
for  white  wine  ;  Cynthiana,  and  Norton's  Virginia,  for 
red  wine. 

Promising  Well. — Martha,  Massasoit,  for  white  wine. 

VARIETIES   FOR   LOCALITIES   BETWEEN  LATITUDE   42°— 36°. 

FOR  TABLE  AND  MARKET. — Perkins,  Massasoit,  Wilder, 
Telegraph,  Concord,  Martha,  Elvira,  Goethe,  Lindley. 

Promising  Well. — Lady,  Aminia,  Black  Eagle,  Defi- 
ance, Essex,  Pearl,  Amber,  Beauty,  Triumph. 

FOR  W^HITE  WINE. — Elvira,  Martha,  Goethe. 

Promising  Well. — Pearl,  Amber,  Beauty,  Uhland, 
Transparent. 

FOR  KED  WINE. — Cynthiana,  Norton's  Virginia. 

FOR  SHERRY. — Hermann. 

Promising  Well. — Hermann  Seedling. 

This  list  embraces  only  the  older  varieties,  such  as 
have  been  tried  several  years. 

VARIETIES  FOR  LOCALITIES  SOUTH  OF  86°. 

FOR  MARKET  AND  TABLE.— Perkins,  Massasoit,  Wilder, 
Martha,  Elvira,  Goethe,  Lindley,  Herbemont. 

Promising  WWZ.— Lady,  Black  Eagle,  Defiance,  Tri- 
umph, Eogers'  No.  2. 

FOR  WHITE  WINE. — Elvira,  Herbemont. 

Promising  Well. — Amber,  Pearl,  Beauty,  Transparent, 
Uhland,  Hermann  Seedling. 


AND    WIKE    MAKING. 


FOR    RED     WIKE. — Cynthiana,    Norton's     Virginia, 
Lenoir. 
FOE    SHERRY. — Hermann,    Rulander,    Cunningham, 

Alvey. 


CHAPTER     XVI. 

PLANTING  THE  VINE. 

The  distance  at  which  the  vines  may  be  planted,  will, 
of  course,  vary  with  the  different  varieties.  The  rows 
may  all  be  6  feet  apart,  as  this  is  the  most  convenient 
distance  for  cultivating,  and  gives  space  enough  for  man, 
horse  and  plow,  or  cultivator.  Slow  growing  varieties, 
such  as  Delaware,  Catawba,  or  Alvey,  may  be  planted  6 
feet  apart  in  the  rows,  but  Concord,  Norton's,  Herbe- 
mont,  and  all  strong  growing  varieties,  will  need  more 
room,  say  from  8  to  10  feet,  to  give  the  vines  ample  space 
to  spread,  and  allow  free  circulation  of  air,  one  of  the 
first  conditions  of  success.  The  next  question  is  :  Shall 
we  plant  cuttings  or  rooted  plants  ?  The  latter  are  by 
far  the  best,  as  cuttings,  even  of  the  easiest  growing  va- 
rieties, are  uncertain,  and  we  cannot  expect  to  have  so 
even  a  growth  as  from  rooted  plants  carefully  assorted. 
Choose,  therefore,  good,  strong,  one-year-old  plants,  the 
best  you  can  get,  either  from  cuttings,  layers,  or  single 
eyes.  Good  plants  should  have  plenty  of  strong,  well- 
ripened  roots,  which  are  smooth  and  firm — for  excres- 
cences and  warts  upon  the  roots  are  a  sign  of  Phylloxera 
— and  have  also  well-ripened,  short-jointed  wood.  They 
should  be  of  even  size,  so  as  to  make  a  uniform  growth, 
and  not  have  been  forced  by  the  propagator  into  rank 
growth,  for  we  cannot  expect  plants  that  have  been  petted 
and  pampered  with  artificial  manures,  to  flourish  with 


82  AMEEICAJST   GBAPE   GROWING 

the  every  day  food  they  obtain  in  the  vineyard.  But 
do  not  take  second  or  third-rate  plants,  if  you  can  help 
it,  for  they  will  not  make  the  thrifty  growth  of  first-class 
plants.  The  best  are  the  cheapest  even  if  they  cost  a 
little  more.  Especially  important  is  this  with  such  va- 
rieties as  Norton's  or  Delaware,  which  do  not  root  readily, 
and  are  always  more  difficult  to  transplant.  Better  pay 
double  the  price  for  them  and  get  good  plants,  as  they 
will  make  healthier  vines  and  bear  sooner. 

But  I  also  caution  you  against  those  who  would  sell 
you  "extra  large  layers  for  immediate  bearing,"  and 
whose  plants  are  "better  than  any  one  else  grows  them," 
as  their  advertisements  will  term  it.  It  is  time  that  this 
humbug  should  cease,  and  the  public  in  general  should 
know  that  they  cannot,  in  reason,  expect  fruit  from  a 
vine  transplanted  the  same  season,  and  that  those  who 
pretend  it  can  be  done  without  vital  injury  to  the  plant, 
are  only  seeking  to  fill  their  pockets  at  the  cost  of  their 
customers.  They  know  well  enough  themselves,  that  it 
cannot  be  done  without  fatally  injuring  the  plant,  but 
they  impose  upon  the  credulity  of  their  customers ;  sell 
them  large  vines  at  extravagant  prices,  which  these  good 
souls  will  buy,  and  perhaps  obtain  a  few  sickly  bunches 
the  first  season,  but  if  they  do,  the  vines  will  make  a 
feeble  growth,  not  ripen  their  wood,  and  be  winter-killed 
next  season.  Therefore,  if  you  look  around  for  plants  do 
not  go  to  those  who  advertise  "layers  for  immediate 
bearing,"  or  "  better  grown  than  any  one's  else,"  but  send 
to  some  honest,  reliable  nurseryman  whom  you  can  trust ; 
one  who  is  not  afraid  to  let  you  see  how  he  grows  them, 
and  let  him  send  you  a  sample  of  his  plants.  Choose 
good,  strong,  healthy  plants,  one  year  old,  plant  care- 
fully, and  be  content  to  wait  two  years  for  results  ;  but 
then,  if  you  have  cultivated  the  vines  carefully,  you  will 
get  a  crop  of  grapes  that  is  worth  gathering.  You  can 
not,  in  nature  and  reason,  expect  it  sooner. 


AND   WINE   MAKING. 


83 


If  the  ground  has  been  prepared  in  the  fall,  so  much 
the  better,  and  if  it  has  been  thrown  into  ridges,  and  is 
dry  enough,  it  may  be  planted  in  the  fall.  The  advantages 
of  fall  planting  may  be  summed  up  as  follows  :  The 


Fig.  15. — YOUNG  VINE   READY  TO  PLANT. 

ground  is  generally  in  better  condition  than  in  spring 
and  will  work  better,  as  we  usually  have  better  weather, 
and  more  time  to  spare  ;  the  ground  can  settle  among 
the  roots,  which  will  be  healed  over  and  callused  by 
spring,  when  the  plant  is  ready  to  start  with  foil  vigor. 
Mark  your  ground,  laying  it  off  with  a  line,  and  put  a 
small  stake  where  each  plant  is  to  be.  A  very  conveni- 


84  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GBOWLNG 

ent  plan  is  to  tie  a  string,  or  piece  of  bark,  into  yonr  line 
at  the  proper  distance  for  each  plant,  then  you  have  an 
even  measure  every  time.  Dig  a  hole,  8  or  10  inches 
deep,  as  shown  in  figure  16,  in  a  slanting  direction,  rais- 
ing a  small  mound  of  well  pulverized  earth  in  the  center; 

then,  having  pruned  your 
plant,  as  in  figure  15,  with 
its  tops  and  roots  shorten- 
ed-in,  as  shown  by  the  dot- 
ted lines,  lay  it  in,  resting 
the  lower  end  on  the 
mound  of  earth ;  spread 
out  its  roots  evenly  to  all 
sides,  and  then  fill  in  with 
Fig.  16. -PLANTING  THE  VINE.  well  pulverized  earth,  leav- 
ing the  upper  bud  above 

the  ground.  When  planted  in  fall,  raise  a  small  mound 
around  each  vine,  so  as  to  drain  off  the  water,  and  throw 
a  handful  of  mulch  on  top  of  the  vines,  to  protect  them. 
All  the  work  should  be  done  when  the  ground  is  in  good 
condition,  and  dry  and  mellow  enough  to  be  worked  in 
well  among  the  roots. 


CHAPTER     XVII. 

TREATMENT    OF    THE    VINE    THE    FIRST    SUMMER. 

The  first  summer  after  planting,  nothing  is  necessary 
but  to  keep  the  ground  loose  and  mellow  and  free  from 
weeds,  stirring  it  freely  with  hoe,  rake,  and  plow,  when- 
ever necessary,  but  never  when  the  ground  is  wet. 
Should  the  vines  grow  strong,  they  may  be  tied  to  the 
small  stakes,  to  elevate  them  somewhat  above  the  ground. 
Allow  but  one  shoot  to  grow,  rubbing  off  all  others  as 


AXD   WIXE   MAKING.  85 

they  appear,  but  allow  all  the  laterals  to  grow  on  this 
shoot,  as  it  will  make  it  short-jointed  and  stocky. 

In  the  fall,  prune  the  young  vine  back  to  three  buds,  if 
it  has  grown  well ;  to  one  or  two,  if  it  is  small.  A  fair 
growth  for  the  first  season,  is  from  3  to  4  feet.  During 
the  winter,  trellises  should  be  provided,  as  this  is  the 
most  convenient  and  the  cheapest  method  of  training  ; 
and  we  expect  our  vines  to  grow  from  10  to  15  feet  the 
coming  summer.  Procure  good  posts,  7  feet  long,  and 
3  to  4  inches  in  diameter,  of  Red  Cedar  where  it  can  be 
had,  as  this  is  the  most  durable  ;  if  that  is  not  at  hand, 
use  Osage  Orange,  Mulberry,  Black  Locust,  or  Post  Oak. 
Char  the  lower  ends  of  the  posts  slightly,  or  dip  them  in 
coal  tar,  as  far  as  they  go  into  the  ground,  to  make  them 
more  durable.  Make  holes  with  a  post  auger,  placing 
the  first  post  in  each  row  about  4  feet  outside  of  the 
last  vine,  and  parallel  with  the  row  ;  set  the  second  post 
midway  between  the  second  and  third  vines,  and  so  on, 
so  that  two  vines  always  occupy  the  space  between  two 
posts.  If  preferred,  every  other  post  can  be  omitted  this 
summer,  and  the  intermediate  ones  may  be  set  the  next 
fall,  as  the  trellis  will  be  strong  enough  to  bear  the  young 
growth,  and  that  is  all  it  will  have  to  do  the  next' 
summer.  Make  the  holes  2  feet  deep  and  set  the  posts 
firmly,  pounding  down  the  ground  around  them  with  a 
small  wooden  pestle  or  crowbar.  Brace  the  end  post 
firmly,  by  driving  in  a  short  stake  4  feet  from  the  last 
post,  fastening  a  wire  to  the  top  of  the  post  and  draw- 
ing it  down  and  around  the  stake,  as  shown  in  figure  17. 
Procure  No.  12  wire  ;  bore  holes  with  a  half -inch  auger 
through  the  end  post  (which  should  always  be  rather 
heavier  and  square),  one  near  the  top  of  the  post,  and 
one  or  two  others,  as  you  wish  to  make  the  trellis  of  two 
or  three  wires.  If  the  trellis  is  to  be  of  only  two  wires, 
make  the  next  hole  2  feet  below  the  upper  one  ;  if  three 
wires  are  to  be  used,  20  inches  bdow.  The  three-wire 


86  AMEEICAK   GBAPE   GROWING 

trellis  is  somewhat  more  convenient  in  tying  up  the 
young  vines  and  lower  canes,  but  is  also  costlier,  while 
the  two-wire  trellis  is  more  economical,  and  when  the 
vines  are  once  established  in  their  proper  shape,  just 
as  good,  while  it  is  more  convenient  for  cultivation  be- 
low, and  allows  freer  circulation  of  air  below  the  bearing 
canes.  Fasten  your  vine  to  the  post  at  one  end,  drawing 
it  along  the  line,  and  pass  it  through  the  hole  in  the  end 
post.  Have  pieces  of  1  inch  boards,  ll/a  inch  broad,  and 
a  foot  long,  with  a  hole  bored  through  the  center.  Draw 
your  wire  also  through  this,  and  then  by  turning  the 
board,  you  can,  in  wrapping  the  wire  around  it,  tighten 
that  at  your  pleasure,  and  loosen  it  also,  which  should 
always  be  done  in  the  fall,  as  the  cold  contracts  the  wire, 
and  the  strain  would  be  too  great.  Now  you  can  fasten 
the  wire  to  the  intermediate  posts  by  small  staples,  which 
are  manufactured  for  this  purpose,  and  can  be  had  in  any 
hardware  store.  If  your  vineyard  slopes  to  the  south, 
and  the  rows  run  parallel  with  the  hillside,  fasten  on  the 
south  side  ;  if  to  the  east,  fasten  to  the  east.  Laths  will, 
of  course,  do  instead  of  wires,  but  the  posts  must  then  be 
set  much  closer  ;  laths  always  need  repairing  ;  the  wires 
are  much  more  convenient  to  tie  to,  and  in  the  end 
much  cheaper.  Many  train  to  stakes.  Where  timber  is 
plenty,  stakes  may  be  cheaper,  yet  it  is  much  more 
labor  to  tie  to  them,  and  the  vines  are  always  in  disorder, 
while  they  will  cling  to  the  wires  with  their  tendrils,  thus 
doing  most  of  the  tying  themselves,  and  the  bearing  canes 
can  be  distributed  much  more  evenly,  producing  more 
and  better  ripened  fruit.  I  am  satisfied  that  the  addi- 
tional cost  of  trellis  will  be  more  than  paid  by  the  larger 
and  better  crop  the  first  bearing  season.  Fill  all  va- 
cancies, if  any  occur,  with  extra  strong  vines  in  the  fall. 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  87 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

TREATMENT  OF  THE  VINE  THE  SECOND  SUMMER. 

We  find  the  young  vine  at  the  commencement  of  the 
second  summer  pruned  to  three  buds.     From  these  we 
may  expect  two  or  three  strong  shoots  to  ripen  into  bear- 
ing canes  for  the  next  year.     The  first  work  will  be  to 
cultivate  the  whole  ground.     This  can  be  done  by  a  com- 
mon turning  plow,  first  throwing  away  a  furrow  at  each 
side  of  the  row,  as  in  the  first  cultivation  of  corn,  taking 
care  not  to  go  too  deep,  so  as  to  injure  the  vine  or  its 
roots.     Then  hoe  the  space  under  and  around  the  vines, 
either  with  the  two-pronged  German  hoe,  or  the  Hexa- 
mer  hoe,  stirring  and  inverting  the  soil  to  the  depth  of 
about  3  inches.     Then  take  the  plow  again  and  throw 
the  soil  back  to  the  vines,  using   care,   however,    not 
to  cover  them  ;  stir  the  whole  to  a  uniform  depth,  and 
leaving  a  shallow  furrow  in  the  middle.     The  ground 
should  be  dry  enough  to  work  well,  and  not  clog  ;  rather 
wait  a  few  days  than  to  stir  the  soil  in  wet  weather.     Of 
the  three  shoots  which  may  grow,  leave  two  to  grow  un- 
checked ;  the  weakest  is  to  be  pinched  as  soon  as  about 
five  or  six  leaves  are  developed,  taking  off  the  top  of  the 
young  shoot  with  your  thumb  and  finger.      The  other 
two,  if  Catawba  or  Delaware,  you  can  let  grow  unchecked, 
but  all  the  strong  growing  kinds,   as  Concord,   Martha, 
Goethe,  etc.,  and  all  the  cBstivalis  and  cordifolia  class, 
should  also  be  pinched  when  the  shoots  have  attained  a 
length  of  3  feet,    or  just  above  the  second,  wire  from 
above  ;  this  will  force  the  laterals  into  a  stronger  growth, 
so  that  each  will  attain  the  size  of  a  medium  cane.     On 
these  we  intend  to  have  our  fruit  the  coming  season,  as 
the  shoots  from  buds  on  these  laterals  will  produce  more 
and  finer  fruit  than  those  on  the  main  canes,  if  left  un- 


88  AMERICA^   GRAPE   GROWING 

checked  ;  and  they  can  also  be  kept  under  control  much 
better.  Figure  17  will  show  the  result  of  training  the 
second  summer,  with  the  method  of  bracing  the  trellis. 


Fig.  17. — THE  VINE  AT  THE  END  OF  THE  SECOND  SEASON. 

Figure  18  gives  the  vine,  pruned  and  tied,  at  the  end 
of  the  second  season.  Figure  19  represents  the  manner 
of  training  and  tying  the  Catawba  and  Delaware,  or  other 
slow  growing  kinds. 

The  above  method  of  training  is  a  combination  of  the 
single-cane  and  fan-training  system,  which  I  tried  first 
on  the  Concord  from  sheer  necessity,  when  the  results 
pleased  me  so  much,  that  I  have  since  adopted  it  with  all 


Fig.  18.— THE   VINE   PRUNED   AND   TIED. 

the  strong  growing  varieties.  The  circumstances  which 
led  me  to  the  trial  of  this  method,  were  as  follows  :  In 
the  summer  of  1862,  when  my  young  Concord  vines  were 


AND  WINE  MAKING: 

making  their  second  season's  growth,  we 
ginning  of  June,  the  most  destructive  hailstorm  I  have 
ever  seen  here.  The  vines  were  not  only  stripped  of  all 
their  leaves,  but  the  young  succulent  shoots  were  also  cut 
down  to  about  3  feet  from  the  ground.  The  vines,  being 
young  and  vigorous,  pushed  out  strong  laterals,  each  of 
them  about  the  size  of  a  fair,  medium  cane.  In  the  fall, 
when  I  came  to  prune  them,  the  main  cane  was  not  long 
enough,  and  I  shortened  in  the  laterals  to  from  four  to 
six  buds  each.  On  these  I  had  as  fine  a  crop  of  grapes  as 
I  ever  saw,  with  large,  well  developed  bunches  and  berries, 


Fig.  19.— TRAINING  SLOW  GROWING  VARIETIES. 

and  a  great  many  of  them,  as  each  bud  had  produced  its 
fruit-bearing  shoot.  Since  that  time  I  have  followed  this 
method  altogether  and  have  obtained  the  most  satisfac- 
tory results. 

The  ground  should  be  kept  loose  and  mellow  during 
the  summer,  cultivating  as  often  as  may  become  necessary 
during  dry  weather,  and  the  vines  are  to  be  tied  neatly 
to  the  trellis  with  bark  or  straw. 

There  are  many  other  methods  of  training,  as  the  old 
bow  and  stake  training,  so  much  in  vogue  formerly.  But 
it  crowds  the  whole  mass  of  fruit  and  leaves  so  closely,  that 
mildew  and  rot  will  follow  as  a  natural  consequence  ;  it 
should  have  been  given  up  long  ago.  But  we  have  a  class 
of  grape  growers  who  never  learn  or  forget  anything. 


90  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

These  will  hardly  prosper.  The  grape-grower,  of  all 
others,  should  be  a  close  observer  of  nature,  a  thinking 
and  reasoning  being.  He  ought  to  experiment  and  try  new 
methods  all  the  time,  and  should  he  find  a  better,  be  will- 
ing to  throw  aside  his  old  method,  and  adopt  one  more 
suited  to  the  wants  of  his  vines.  Only  in  this  manner 
can  he  expect  to  attain  success. 

There  is  also  the  arm  system,  of  which  we  hear  so 
much,  and  which  certainly  looks  very  pretty  on  paper. 
But  paper  is  patient,  and  the  advantages  of  the  sys- 
tem cannot  be  denied,  if  every  shoot  and  spur  could  be 
made  to  grow  just  as  in  drawings,  with  three  fine  bunches 
to  each  shoot.  Upon  applying  it,  however,  we  find 
that  vines  are  stubborn,  some  shoots  will  outgrow  others, 
and  before  we  hardly  know  how,  the  whole  beautiful 
system  is  out  of  order.  It  may  do  to  follow  with  a 
few  vines  in  gardens,  or  on  arbors,  but  1  do  not  think 
that  it  will  ever  be  successfully  adopted  for  vineyard  cul- 
ture, as  it  involves  too  much  labor  in  tying,  pruning,  etc. 
I  think  the  method  already  described  will  more  fully 
meet  the  wants  of  the  vine  grower  than  any  I  have  yet 
seen ;  it  is  so  simple  that  an  intelligent  person  can  soon 
become  familiar  with  it,  and  gives  us  new,  healthy  bear- 
ing-wood every  season. 

Pruning  may  be  done  in  the  fall,  as  soon  as  the  leaves 
have  dropped,  and  continued,  on  mild  days,  during 
the  winter  months. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  91 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

TREATMENT  OF  THE  VINE  THE  THIRD  SUMMER. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  third  season  we  find  our  vine 
pruned  to  three  spurs,  of  two  buds  each,  and  six  short 
lateral  arms  of  four  to  six  buds  each.  These  are  tied 
firmly  to  the  trellis,  as  shown  in  figure  18,  for  which  pur- 
pose small  twigs  of  the  Golden  Willow,  of  which  every 
grape- grower  should  plant  a  supply,  are  the  most  con- 
venient. In  their  absence,  twigs  of  some  of  the  wild 
willows,  or  good  strong  twine,  may  be  substituted,  though 
not  near  so  convenient.  The  ground  should  be  plowed 
and  hoed  as  before,  taking  care,  however,  not  to  plow 
so  deeply  as  to  cut  or  tear  the  roots  of  the  vines. 

The  vines  being  plowed  and  hoed,  and,  as  we  hope, 
pushing  young  shoots  vigorously,  we  come  to  one  of  the 
most  important  and  delicate  operations  to  be  performed 
on  the  vine,  one  of  as  great,  or  even  greater,  importance 
than  pruning.  This  is  summer-pruning,  or  pinching, 
i.  e.,  thumb  and  finger  pruning.  Fall  pruning,  or  cutting 
back,  is  but  the  first  step  in  the  discipline  to  which  the 
vine  is  to  be  subjected ;  summer  pruning  is  the  second  ; 
and  one  is  useless  and  cannot  be  systematically  followed 
without  the  other.  Look  at  the  vine  well  before  you 
commence,  and  begin  near  the  ground. 

The  time  to  commence  is  when  the  young  shoots 
are  6  to  8  inches  long,  and  as  soon  as  you  can  see  all  the 
young  bunches  or  buds,  the  embryo  fruit.  We  com- 
mence on  the  lower  spur,  having  two  shoots  ;  rubbing 
off,  at  the  same  time,  all  suckers  or  wild  shoots  that  may 
have  started  from  the  crown  of  the  vine  below.  From 
the  two  buds  two  shoots  have  started.  One  of  them 
may  serve  as  a  bearing  cane  or  reserve  next  summer,  we, 
therefore,  leave  it  unchecked  for  the  present.  The  other, 


AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 


which  is  intended  for  a  spur  again  next  fall,  we  pinch 
with  thumb  and  finger,  just  beyond  the  last  bunch  or 
button,  taking  out  the  leader  between  the  last  bunch  and 
the  next  leaf,  as  shown  in  figure  20,  the  cross  line  indicat- 
ing where  the  leader  is  to  be  pinched.  We  now  rub  off 
all  the  shoots  between  the  lower  spur  and  the  next  lateral 
cane,  should  any  appear,  as  they  generally  produce  im- 
perfect fruit  and  are  quite  too  near  the  ground.  Next 
take  the  spur  on  the  cane,  treating  it  precisely  like  the 
lower  one,  leaving  the  strongest  shoot  unchecked  for  a 
bearing  cane  next  year,  and  pinching  the  other.  Now  go 
over  all  the  shoots  on  the  lateral 
canes,  shortening  each  one  to  just 
above  the  last  promising  looking 
bunch.  If  a  bud  has  started 
two,  or  even  three  shoots,  rub  of? 
the  weaker,  leaving  but  one  and 
the  strongest,  and  if  any  bud  has 
not  started  vigorously,  rub  it  off 
altogether.  Go  over  the  other 
cane  in  the  same  manner,  and  if 
you  think  there  are  still  too  many 
bunches,  take  away  the  smallest. 
A  vine  in  its  third  season,  how- 
ever strong  it  may  be,  should  not 
be  allowed  to  bear  over  15  Ibs.  of  grapes,  and  if  allowed 
thirty  to  forty  bunches  it  will  have  that  quantity,  pro- 
vided it  is  not  a  variety  which  bears  but  small  bunches. 
Now  is  the  time  to  thin  the  fruit,  before  it  has  abstracted 
any  strength  from  the  vine.  If  any  shoots  are  not  suf- 
ficiently developed  to  show  their  condition,  we  pass  them 
by,  and  go  over  the  vine  again  after  a  few  days. 

This  early  pinching  of  the  young  shoots  has  the  ten- 
dency to  throw  all  the  vigor  into  the  development  of  the 
young  bunches  and  the  leaves  remaining  on  the  shoot, 
which  now  develop  with  astonishing  rapidity.  It  is  a 


Fig.  20. — PINCHING. 


AND   WINE  MAKING. 


gentle  checking,  and  leading  the  sap  into  other  channels, 
not  the  violent  process  which  is  often  followed  long  after 
the  bloom,  when  the  shoots  have  so  hardened  that  tho 
knife  must  be  used,  and  by  which  the  plant  is  robbed 
of  a  large  part  of  its  leaves,  to  the  injury  of  both  fruit 
and  vine.  Let  any  one  who  wishes  to  satisfy  himself, 
summer-prune  a  vine  according  to  this  method,  and  leave 
the  next  vine  until  after  the  bloom  ;  he  will  soon  be  con- 
vinced which  is  best,  Since  I  first  practised  this  method, 
now  about  twenty  years,  it  has  added  at  least  one- third 
to  the  quantity  and  quality  of  my  crop,  and  it  is  now  fol- 
lowed by  most  of  the  intelligent  growers  of  my  State. 
It  also  gives  an  early  opportunity  to  destroy  the  small 
worms,  a  species  of  leaf -folder,  which  are  very  trouble- 
some about  this  time,  eating  the  young  bunches  and 
leaves,  and  which  generally 
make  their  web  among  the 
tender  leaves  at  the  end  of  the 
shoot.  The  bearing  shoots  all 
being  pinched  back,  we  can 
leave  the  vines  alone  until  after 
the  bloom,  only  tying  up  the 
young  canes  from  the  spurs, 
should  this  become  necessary. 
Do  not  tie  them  over  and 
among  the  bearing  canes,  but 
lead  them  to  the  empty  spaces 
in  the  middle,  as  our  ob- 
ject must  be  to  give  the  fruit 
all  the  air  and  light  we  can. 

When  they  have  bloomed,  the  laterals  will  have  start- 
ed from  the  axils  of  the  leaves  on  the  bearing  shoots. 
Go  over  again,,  and  pinch  these  back  to  one  leaf,  as  shown 
in  figure  21,  the  cross  lines  showing  where  the  laterals  are 
to  be  pinched.  This  will  have  the  tendency  to  develop 
the  remaining  leaf  very  rapidly,  enabling  it  to  serve  as  a 


Fig.  21.— PINCHING  THE 
LATERALS. 


94  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

conductor  and  elaborator  of  sap  to  the  young  bunch  op- 
posite, and  shading  that  when  it  becomes  fully  devel- 
oped. The  canes  from  the  spurs,  which  we  left  un- 
checked at  first  pinching,  and  which  we  design  to  bear 
fruit  the  next  season,  may  now  also  be  stopped  or  pinched 
when  they  are  about  3  feet  long,  to  start  their  laterals 
into  stronger  growth.  Pinch  off  all  the  tendrils  unless 
where  they  serve  as  supports  to  the  young  growth.  This 
is  a  very  busy  time  for  the  vine  dresser,  and  upon  his 
close  attention  and  diligence  now,  depends,  in  a  great 
measure,  the  value  of  his  crop.  A  vast  deal  of  labor  can 
be  saved  by  doing  everything  at  its  proper  time. 

This  is  about  all  that  is  necessary  for  this  summer,  ex- 
cept tying  the  young  growth  along  the  top  wires,  and 
an  occasional  tying  of  a  fruit-bearing  branch,  if  it  should 
become  too  heavy.  The  majority  of  the  branches  will, 
however,  be  able  to  bear  their  fruit  without  tying,  and 
the  young  growth  which  may  yet  be  made  from  the 
laterals  may  be  left  unchecked,  as  it  will  serve  to  shade 
the  fruit  when  ripening.  This  short  and  early  pinching 
is  also  a  partial  preventive  of  mildew  and  rot,  as  it  ad- 
mits light  and  air  to  all  parts  of  the  vine.  But  I  cannot 
caution  too  strongly  against  late  cutting  back,  one  of  the 
first  causes  of  disease,  and  ruinous  to  the  vine,  as  the  de- 
foliation of  the  vine  in  August  disturbs  and  violates  all 
its  functions,  and  enfeebles  it. 

The  reader  will  perceive  that  fall  pruning,  or  shorten- 
ing-in  the  ripe  wood  of  the  vine,  and  summer-pruning, 
shortening-in  and  thinning  the  young  growth,  have  one 
and  the  same  object  in  view,  namely,  to  keep  the  vine  with- 
in proper  bounds,  and  to  concentrate  all  its  energies  for  a 
two-fold  object,  the  production  and  ripening  of  the  most 
perfect  fruit,  and  the  production  of  strong  and  healthy 
wood  for  next  season's  crop.  Both  operations  are  only  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  same  system,  of  which  summer-pruning 
is  the  preparatory,  and  fall-pruning  the  finishing  part. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  95 

If  we  think  that  a  yine  sets  more  fruit  than  it  is  able 
to  bear  and  ripen  perfectly,  we  have  it  in  our  power  to 
thin  it,  by  taking  away  all  imperfect  bunches  and  feeble 
shoots.  We  should  allow  no  more  canes  to  grow  for  next 
season's  bearing  than  we  need,  if  we  allow  three  canes  to 
grow  where  only  two  are  needed,  we  waste  the  energies 
of  the  yine,  which  should  all  be  concentrated  upon  ripen- 
ing its  fruit  in  the  most  perfect  manner,  and  producing 
enough  wood  for  next  season's  bearing,  and  of  the  best 
and  most  vigorous  kind,  but  no  more.  If  we  prune  the 
yine  too  long,  we  overtax  its  energies,  making  it  bear 
more  fruit  than  it  can  well  mature,  and  the  result  will  be 
poor,  badly-ripened  fruit,  and  imperfect  wood.  If  we 
prune  the  vine  too  short,  we  will  have  a  rank,  excessive 
growth  of  wood  and  leaves,  and  encourage  rot  and  mil- 
dew. Only  practice  and  experience  will  teach  the  true 
medium,  and  the  observing  and  thinking  vine-dresser 
will  soon  learn  where  the  true  medium  is,  better  than 
he  can  be  taught  by  volumes  of  advice.  Different  va- 
rieties will,  of  course,  require  different  treatment,  and 
it  would  be  folly  to  prune  them  all  alike.  A  compact, 
slow  grower,  like  the  Delaware,  will  require  different 
treatment  from  a  rank  grower  like  Concord,  and  much 
shorter  pruning.  The  Delaware  and  Catawba  fruit 
well  upon  single  canes,  while  the  Concord,  Martha,  and 
others,  fruit  better  on  spurs  upon  laterals,  while  most  of 
the  cestivaUs  and  cordifolia  classes,  especially  the  Norton's, 
Cynthiana,  and  Taylor,  will  fruit  better  if  pruned  to 
spurs  of  two  or  three  buds,  on  the  old  arms,  than  on 
young  canes.  With  these  latter,  the  old  arms  should, 
therefore,  be  retained  as  long  as  they  are  sound  and 
vigorous,  pruning  all  the  healthy,  good  sized  shoots  to  two 
or  three  buds  ;  always,  however,  growing  a  young  cane 
to  fall  back  upon,  should  the  old  one  become  diseased. 
It  is  because  so  few  of  our  common  laborers  will  take  the 
pains  to  study  the  habits  and  nature  of  their  vines,  and 


96  AMERICAN   GKAPE   GROWING 

do  a  little  thinking  for  themselves,  that  we  find  among 
them  but  very  few  good  vine  dressers. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  state  that  the  ground  should 
be  kept  mellow  and  clean  through  the  summer.,  and 
especially  during  the  ripening  of  the  fruit,  but  never 
touch  it  in  wet  weather. 

At  the  end  of  this  season,  we  find  our  vines,  if  Concords 
or  similar  varieties,  with  the  old  fruit-bearing  canes,  and 
a  spur  on  each  side,  from  each  of  which  we  have  a  cane, 
as  the  smaller  one  was  stopped,  like  all  other  fruit-bear- 
ing branches,  and  which  we  now  prune  to  a  spur  of  two 
buds.  The  other,  the  young  cane,  which  was  stopped  at 
about  3  feet,  on  which  the  laterals  were  left  to  grow  un- 
checked, we  prune  as  last  season,  each  lateral  being  cut 
back  to  four  to  six  buds,  and  the  old  canes  which  had  borne 
fruit,  are  cut  away  altogether.  With  Norton's,  Cynthi- 
ana,  Taylor,  etc.,  the  old  arms  are  left,  and  the  well  de- 
veloped shoots  are  cut  back  to  two  buds  each,  as  before 
mentioned,  while  the  small,  weak  ones  are  cut  away 
altogether.  This  leaves  us  with  an  arm  on  each  side,  to 
be  tied  the  next  spring,  as  shown  in  figure  18,  and 
ends  our  operations  for  the  season.  Of  the  gathering  of 
the  fruit,  as  well  for  market  as  for  wine,  I  shall  speak  in 
another  place. 


CHAPTER    XX. 

TREATMENT  OF  THE  VINE  THE  FOURTH  SUMMER. 

We  now  consider  the  vine  as  established,  able  to  bear  a 
full  crop.  The  operations  to  be  performed  are  precisely 
the  same  as  in  its  third  year,  only  modifying  the  prun- 
ing, fruiting,  etc.,  according  to  the  strength  of  the  vine, 
pruning  shorter  if  the  vine  shows  a  decrease  in  vigor, 
longer,  if  it  grows  too  rank. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  97 

Should  the  vines  show  a  decrease  in  vigor,  so  as  to  in- 
dicate the  need  of  stimulants,  they  may  be  manured  with 
ashes,  bone  dust,  compost,  or  still  better,  with  surface 
soil  from  the  woods  or  prairies.  This  will  serve  to  re- 
plenish the  soil  which  may  have  been  washed  off,  and  is 
much  more  beneficial  -than  stable  manure.  When  the 
latter  is  employed,  a  small  trench  may  be  dug  in  the 
middle  of  the  row  just  above  the  vine,  the  manure  laid 
in,  and  covered  with  soil.  But  an  abundance  of  fresh 
soil,  drawn  around  the  vine,  is  the  best  of  all  manures. 

Should  your  vineyard  have  vacancies,  they  had  best  be 
filled  with  layers  from  neighboring  vines,  made  as  follows: 
Dig  a  trench  from  the  vine  from  which  the  layer  is  to  be 
made,  to  the  empty  place,  about  8  or  10  inches  deep  ; 
bend  into  this  trench  one  of  the  canes  of  the  vine  which 
has  been  left  to  grow  unchecked  for  the  purpose,  and 
pruned  to  the  proper  length.  Let  the  end  of  this  layer- 
cane  come  out  at  the  surface,  where  the  new  vine  is  want- 
ed, and  fill  up  the  trench  with  well  pulverized  earth.  It 
will  take  root  at  every  joint,  and  grow  rapidly,  but  as  it 
draws  a  great  deal  of  nourishment  from  the  parent  vine, 
that  must  be  pruned  much  shorter.  When  the  layer  is 
well  established,  it  is  cut  from  the  parent  vine,  either  the 
second  or  third  season.  Such  layers  will  fill  up  much 
better  than  if  the  vacancies  are  supplied  by  planting, 
young  vines,  as  the  latter  do  not  grow  very  vigorous- 
ly, if  set  among  the  others,  after  the  second  season. 

Pruning  is  best  done  in  fall,  but  can  be  done  any  time 
during  mild  weather  in  winter,  and  here  even  as  late  as 
the  middle  of  March.  Fall  pruning  will  prevent  flow  of 
sap,  and  the  cuttings,  if  to  be  used  for  future  plantations, 
or  sold,  are  also  better  if  made  in  the  fall,  and  buried  in 
the  ground  overwinter,  with  their  upper  ends  downwards. 
All  the  sound,  well-ripened  wood  of  last  season's  growth 
may  be  made  into  cuttings,  and  if  they  can  be  sold, 
will  largely  add  to  the  product  of  the  y-ineyard. 


98  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

CHAPTER     XXL 

TRAINING  THE  VINE  ON  ARBORS  AND  V7ALLS. 

This  has  a  different  purpose  from  culture  in  yineyards, 
and,  therefore,  the  yines  require  different  treatment. 
Vineyard  culture  has  for  its  object  the  most  perfect 
fruit,  and  bringing  the  vine,  with  all  its  parts,  within 
easy  reach  of  the  cultivator.  Arbor  culture  has  for  its 
object  the  covering  of  a  large  space  with  foliage,  for  or- 
nament and  shade ;  fruit  being  but  a  secondary  considera- 
tion, though  a  large  quantity  of  fruit  of  fair  quality  can 
also  be  produced,  if  the  vines  are  judiciously  treated. 

The  first  aim  should  be  to  grow  very  strong  plants,  so 
as  to  cover  a  large  space.  Prepare  the  border  by  digging  a 
trench  2  feet  deep  and  4  feet  wide,  and  fill  with  rich  soil, 
rotten  leaves,  bones,  ashes,  etc.  Set  your  plants  in  this, 
in  the  manner  already  shown  in  vineyard  planting. 
Leave  but  one  shoot  to  grow  on  them  during  the  first 
summer,  which  ought  to  become  very  strong.  Cut  this 
cane  back  to  three  buds  the  next  fall.  Each  of  these 
buds  will  produce  a  strong  shoot  the  next  spring,  which 
should  be  tied  to  the  arbor  and  allowed  to  grow  un- 
checked. In  the  following  fall,  cut  each  of  these  three 
canes  back  to  three  buds,  as  our  first  aim  must  be  to  get 
a  good  basis  for  our  vines.  These  will  give  nine  canes 
the  next  summer,  and  as  the  vine  is  now  strong  enough, 
we  can  begin  to  demand  a  crop  from  it.  We  have  now 
three  different  sections  or  branches  to  the  vine,  each  one 
of  which  bears  three  canes.  Cut  one  of  these  three  canes 
back  to  two  eyes,  and  prune  the  other  two  canes  to  from 
six  to  ten  buds  each,  according  to  the  strength  of  the 
vine.  Treat  each  of  the  three  sections  in  the  same  man- 
ner. Next  spring  tie  these  neatly  to  the  trellis,  divid- 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  99 

ing  them  equally,  and  when  the  young  shoots  appear, 
thin  out  the  weakest,  leaving  the  others  to  grow  un- 
checked. Next  fall  cut  back  the  weakest  of  the  canes 
to  two  buds  each,  the  stronger  ones  to  three  or  four  buds, 
the  spurs  at  bottom  to  come  in  as  a  reserve,  should  any  of 
the  main  arms  become  diseased. 

Others  prefer  the  Thomery  or  horizontal  arm  training, 
but  I  think  it  much  more  complicated  and  difficult. 
Those  who  wish  to  inform  themselves  about  it,  I  refer  to 
the  books  of  Fuller  and  Mead,  which  are  very  explicit  on 
the  subject. 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

OTHER  METHODS  OF  TRAINING. 

These  are  almost  without  number ;  one  of  the  most 
common  is  to  place  three  stakes  around  the  yine,  about  a 
foot  from  it,  and  to  wind  the  canes  or  arms  around  them 
spirally,  until  they  reach  the  top.  They  are  then 
"spurred  in"  every  season,  and  no  young  canes  grown, 
except  to  replace  a  decaying  arm.  This  mode  is  much 
more  inconvenient  than  a  trellis,  and  it  crowds  fruit 
and  foliage  too  much,  inducing  mildew.  Another,  much 
in  vogue  in  Europe,  and  also  in  California,  is  the  so- 
called  bush  or  stool  method  of  training.  The  vine  is 
made  to  form  its  crown,  i.  e.,  the  part  from  which  the 
branches  start,  from  12  to  18  inches  above  the  ground 
and  all  the  young  shoots  are  allowed  to  grow,  but  sum- 
mer pruned  or  checked  above  the  last  bunch  of  grapes. 
The  next  spring  or  fall  all  of  the  young  shoots  are 
"  spurred-in  "  to  two  buds  ;  this  system  of  spurring-in  is 
kept  up,  and  the  vine  will  at  last  present  the  appearance 
of  a  bush  or  miniature  tree,  producing  all  its  fruit  within 


100  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

a  foot  from  the  crown,  and  without  further  support  than 
its  own  stem.  Very  old  vines,  sometimes,  have  from  a 
dozen  to  twenty  spurs,  and  present,  with  their  fruit 
hanging  all  around  their  trunks,  a  pleasing,  but  odd 
aspect.  This  method  could  not  be  applied  here  with  any 
chance  of  success  to  any  other  than  very  slow  and  stocky 
growers.  The  Delaware,  the  Alvey,  and  also  the  Eumelan, 
would  be  the  most  suitable,  as  they  are  very  close-jointed, 
stocky,  and  hardy.  It  would  be  useless  to  try  it  with 
strong  growers. 

Another  method  of  dwarfing  the  vine  is  practised  to 
form  a  pretty  border  along  walks  in  gardens  or  along  ter- 
races, and  is  as  follows  :  Plant  the  vines  about  8  feet 
apart,  treat  them  the  first  season  as  in  common  vineyard 
culture,  but  cut  back  to  two  buds.  Provide  posts  3  to 
31/.,  feet  long,  and  pointed  at  one  end  ;  drive  these  into  the 
ground  for  18  inches,  and  nail  a  lath  on  the  top.  This 
is  the  trellis,  and  should  be  about  18  inches  above  the 
ground,  or  2  feet,  if  you  prefer.  Allow  both  of  the 
shoots  from  the  vine  to  grow  unchecked,  and  when  they 
have  reached  the  trellis,  tie  one  to  the  right,  the  other  to 
the  left,  allowing  them  to  grow  at  will  along  the  lath. 
The  next  fall,  cut  back  to  the  proper  length  to  meet  the 
other  vine,  and  in  spring,  tie  firmly  to  the  lath.  When 
the  young  shoots  appear,  all  are  rubbed  off  below  the  trel- 
lis, but  all  those  above  the  trellis  are  pinched,  as  in  vine- 
yard culture,  beyond  the  last  bunch  of  grapes.  The 
trellis,  with  its  garland  of  fruit,  will  look  very  pretty. 
In  the  fall,  all  the  shoots  are  "spurred-in"  to  one  or 
two  buds,  one  being  allowed  to  grow  from  each  spur,  to 
produce  fruit  the  next  summer  ;  the  same  treatment  is 
repeated  every  year. 

During  a  trip  among  the  vineyards  of  Western  New 
York,  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Erie  and  Keuka,  or  Crooked 
Lake,  I  observed  a  method  of  training  which  seems  to  pro- 
duce good  results  there,  but  which  I  think  would  not 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  101 

prove  successful  here,  as  our  hot  sun  would  scald  the 
leaves,  and  the  grapes  being  so  near  the  ground  would 
be  more  liable  to  rot.  I  can  but  think  that  even  in 
these  localities  the  method  described  by  me,  would  be 
better,  and  save  a  good  deal  of  labor. 

Their  method  is  as  follows  :  They  grow  two  canes  on 
each  vine,  which  are  tied  horizontally  to  the  lower  wire, 
one  to  the  left,  the  other  to  the  right,  and  also  a  spur  on 
each  arm  to  produce  a  new  cane  for  next  year.  The 
shoots,  which  grow  from  the  eyes  on  the  two  horizontal 
canes,  are  left  to  grow  unchecked,  and  when  they  have 
become  long  enough  to  reach  the  second  wire,  are  tied  to 
it,  and  from  there  to  the  upper  wire,  thus  bearing  the  fruit 
all  between  the  lower  and  second  wires.  The  next  fall  the 
cane,  which  has  borne  the  fruit  the  last  summer,  is  cut  off 
close  to  the  spur,  and  the  new  cane  grown  from  it  takes 
the  place  of  it  the  next  summer.  It  is  a  very  simple  way 
of  renewal  training,  but  were  we  to  do  it  here,  the  leaves 
which  are  on  the  main  shoots  would  drop  off,  leaving  the 
fruifc  exposed  ;  while  with  the  system  of  summer-pruning 
I  follow,  the  young  and  vigorous  leaves  on  the  pinched 
laterals  shade  the  fruit  perfectly,  and  remain  fresh  and 
green.  Besides,  it  takes  an  immense  amount  of  tying  and 
tying  material,  and  we  can  pinch  four  shoots  in  a  shorter 
time  than  we  can  tie  one.  As  our  pinched  shoots  be- 
come very  stocky,  they  will  bear  the  weight  of  all  the 
fruit  without  tying,  and  the  slanting  direction  in  which 
we  tie  will  distribute  the  fruit  more  evenly.  I  believe, 
therefore,  that  our  New  York  growers  would  do  well  to 
give  this  method  a  trial,  and  compare  results. 

I  also  saw  the  horizontal  arm  training  in  great  perfec- 
tion at  Mr.  H.  E.  Hooker's,  at  Rochester,  and  confess  that 
his  arms  of  the  Brighton,  with  their  handsome  clusters, 
looked  very  handsome.  He  thinks  he  could  carry  an 
arm  to  the  distance  of  50  feet  in  the  same  way.  His 
treatment  consists  simply  in  "  spurring-in "  the  young 


102  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

shoots  on  his  canes  along  the  first  wire  to  one  to  two 
eyes,  growing  his  fruit  on  these,  and  leaving  the  old  arm, 
pruning  back  the  young  shoots  to  spurs  every  year,  leav- 
ing the  bearing  shoots  unchecked,  and  tying  them  to  the 
wires  above.  While  it  succeeds  there,  I  have  my  doubts 
as  to  its  applicability  with  us,  for  the  reasons  already 
given,  nor  do  I  believe  that  he  can  grow  any  better  fruit 
even  there,  than  could  be  obtained  by  our  simpler  method. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

DISEASES  OF  THE  VINE. 

I  cannot  agree  with  those  writers  who  assert  that  the 
diseases  of  the  -vine  are  not  threatening  in  this  country. 
They  are  so  formidable  that  whole  districts  where  grape 
growing  was  formerly  followed,  have  given  up  the  cul- 
ture of  the  vine  almost  entirely,  and  it  seems  as  if  all 
varieties  of  the  Labrusca  become,  more  or  less,  a  prey  to 
them.  This  may,  to  a  certain  extent,  be  attributed  to 
the  Phylloxera,  or  Root  Louse,  which  so  enfeebles  the 
plant,  that  it  can  not  withstand  the  changes  of  our  vari- 
able climate.  But  even  the  Concord,  which  is  almost 
Phylloxera  proof,  has  rotted  worse  than  any  other  during 
the  last  few  years,  although  formerly  considered  one  of 
the  most  reliable.  I  think  one  of  the  reasons  why  the 
Labrusca  class  is  so  subject  to  disease,  is  the  tendency  of 
the  vines  to  root  near  the  surface,  as  they  are  thus  more 
liable  to  be  affected  by  excessive  wet,  or  the  reverse  ex- 
treme, drouth.  It  is,  therefore,  fortunate  indeed,  that 
we  have  some  varieties  which  do  not  rot,  at  least  to  such 
an  extent  as  to  affect  their  crop.  Almost  all  of  the  older 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  103 

yarieties  of  these  belong  to  the  cestivalis  class,  and  among 
them,  the  Norton's  Virginia  and  Cynthiana  stand  pre- 
eminent. Daring  the  forty  years  that  the  Norton's  has 
been  known,  the  rot  has  never  materially  affected  the 
crop,  and  the  Cynthiana  rivals  it  in  that  respect,  being 
equally  healthy,  while  its  wine,  in  quality,  excels  that  of 
the  Norton.  The  cordifolia  class  also  bids  fair  to  furnish 
us  varietie3  of  the  "  iron  clad  "  type,  in  the  Elvira,  Trans- 
parent, Pearl,  Uhland,  etc.  Both  of  these  classes  root 
deeply,  and  in  this,  I  believe,  is  to  be  found  the  reason  for 
their  greater  health.  Both  are  true  wine  grapes,  with  no 
toughness  of  pulp,  the  Norton's  and  Cynthiana  furnish- 
ing us  the  types  for  red  wine,  the  others,  the  delicate  and 
smooth  white  wines.  On  these  I  make  bold  to  say,  the 
future  of  our  country  as  a  "  Wineland"  depends  ;  not  on 
the  windy  appliances  of  sulphur,  and  other  remedies 
against  rot  and  mildew,  and  my  advice  to  the  beginner  is: 
do  not  plant  largely  of  any  variety  subject  to  disease,  but 
plant  those  which  will  not  need  these  remedies.  I  have 
no  doubt  that  there  are  varieties  adapted  to  every  section 
of  the  country  which  are  free  from  disease,  and  it  will 
certainly  pay  the  planter  to  seek  them  out. 

Mildew  is  our  most  formidable  disease,  and  very  often 
sweeps  away  two-thirds  of  a  crop  of  Catawbas  in  a  few 
days.  It  does  not  seem  to  affect  the  Concord  and  Mar- 
tha. Generally  mildew  appears  here  from  June  1st  to 
June  15th,  after  abundant  rains,  and  damp  weather.  It 
is  a  parasitic  fungus,  and  sulphur  applied  by  means  of  a 
bellows,  or  dusted  over  the  fruit  and  vine,  is  a  partial 
remedy.  Close  and  early  summer-pruning  will  do  much 
to  prevent  it,  throwing,  as  it  does,  all  the  strength  of  the 
vine  into  the  young  fruit,  developing  it  rapidly,  and  also 
giving  free  access  of  air.  In  some  varieties,  Delaware 
for  instance,  it  will  only  affect  the  leaves,  causing  them 
to  drop  off,  after  which  the  fruit,  though  it  may  attain 
full  size,  will  not  ripen  or  become  sweet,  but  shrinks  and 


104  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

drops.  In  seasons  when  the  weather  is  dry,  and  the  air 
pure,  mildew  will  not  appear.  It  is  most  prevalent  in 
locations  with  a  tenacious  subsoil  and  where  malaria 
abounds,  being  less  frequent  in  soils  with  good  drainage 
and  in  high,  exposed  situations.  Under-draining  is  also 
a  partial  preventive,  as  excess  of  moisture  about  the  roots 
and  in  the  air  is,  no  doubt,  its  principal  cause. 

The  Gray  Rot,  or  "  Grape  Cholera"  (so-called),  gen- 
erally follows  the  mildew,  and  I  think  the  latter  its  prin- 
cipal cause,  as  it  is  generally  found  on  berries  of  which 
the  stems  have  already  been  affected  by  mildew.  The 
berry  first  shows  gray  streaks  and  marblings ;  in  a  few 
days  it  turns  to  a  grayish-blue  color,  withers,  and  drops 
from  the  bunch.  It  will  continue  to  affect  berries  until 
they  begin  to  ripen  and  color,  but  is  confined  to  a  few 
varieties  only,  the  Catawba,  Diana,  and  a  few  others. 

The  Spotted,  or  Brown  Rot,  has  been  most  destructive 
of  late  among  the  Concord,  Martha,  Rogers'  Hybrids;  in 
short,  nearly  all  of  the  Labruscas,  with  the  exception  of 
the  Ives,  Perkins,  and  a  few  others,  too  poor  in  quality 
to  be  very  desirable.  It  appears  like  a  small  puncture 
on  the  berry,  which  will  take  on  a  liver-colored  hue  and 
spread  very  rapidly.  In  1878  it  destroyed  almost  the 
whole  Concord  crop  along  the  lower  Missouri  and  Missis- 
sippi. Longer  fall  pruning  and  heavier  bearing  of  the 
vine  will  prevent  it  to  some  extent,  also  close  and  early 
summer-pruning,  as  it  is  worse  on  vines  with  a  rank 
growth,  and  on  poorly  drained  soil.  Training  on  the 
trellis  higher  than  is  generally  followed  (which  is  a 
natural  consequence  of  longer  pruning),  will  also  be 
found  a  partial  preventive,  in  short,  anything  which  will 
give  a  freer  circulation  of  air  and  more  exposure  to  the 
light  will  be  of  aid. 

There  is  another  form  of  rot,  appearing  mostly  on 
the  Herbemont,  Lenoir,  Hermann,  and  sometimes  on  the 
Taylor,  which  generally  comes  after  frequent  showers, 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  105 

close,  sultry  air,  and  hot  glimpses  of  sunshine  between 
showers.  It  at  first  appears  as  a  grayish  spot  on  the 
foliage,  which  shrivels  as  if  burnt,  an.1,  the  berries  dry 
up  as  if  scalded  by  hot  water.  It  comes  in  spots  ;  some- 
times all  the  fruit  on  one  arm  will  be  destroyed,  while 
that  on  the  other  arm  on  the  same  vine  is  healthy,  and 
all  of  it  will  ripen. 

The  best  method  of  avoiding  all  these  diseases  is  to 
plant  varieties  not  subject  to  them,  and  with  the  mani- 
fold kinds  we  now  have,  some  can  surely  be  found  that 
will  remain  healthy  in  every  locality  at  all  adapted  to 
grape  growing.  That  we  have  varieties  exempt  from  dis- 
ease, the  experience  with  the  Norton's  Virginia,  wherever 
cultivated,  has  fully  demonstrated.  No  sensible  man, 
however,  will  suppose  that  one  variety  should  be  suited 
to  all  locations  over  this  wide  country.  It  behooves  us 
then,  each  to  experiment,  and  ascertain  which  are  suited 
to  his  particular  locality,  and  for  these  experiments  to 
choose  such  as  are  considered  most  healthy  elsewhere, 
and  especially  in  locations  similar  to  his,  in  climate  and 
soil. 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 

INSECTS  INJURIOUS  TO  THE  GRAPE. 

As  the  most  destructive  of  all,  because  it  works  chiefly 
under  ground,  and  the  mischief  it  does  will  only  be  per- 
ceived in  its  effects,  I  may  consider  the  Phylloxera  vasta- 
trix,  or  Grape-vine  Root-louse.  Concerning  the  exist- 
ence of  this  pest,  we  have  for  a  long  time  been  ignorant, 
until  the  efforts  of  our  State  Entomologist,  Prof.  C.  V. 
Riley,  and  of  other  Entomologists,  especially  Prof. 
Planchon,  of  France,  have  enlightened  us  upon  the 
subject,  and  made  us  aware  of  the  danger  threatening 


100  AMEEICA^   GHAPE   GKOWIXG 

our  vineyards,  but  especially  those  of  Europe  and  Cali- 
fornia, where  the  vinifera  class  had  so  far  been  cultivated 
almost  exclusively.  It  threatens  now  to  sweep  out  of 
existence  that  whole  class,  and  it  is  a  very  noteworthy 
fact,  that  from  this  country  from  which  the  fell  destroyer 
was  imported  into  Europe,  should  also  come  the  only 
effective  remedy  so  far  found,  namely,  the  introduction 
of  Phylloxera  proof  varieties  of  vines,  which  are  found 
chiefly  in  the  (Bstivalis  and  cordifolia  (or  riparia) 
classes.  All  other  remedies,  except  inundation,  seem  to 
have  failed,  and  Prof.  Planchon,  in  a  letter  to  me,  ex- 
presses his  firm  belief,  that  the  only  hope  of  saving  that 
great  source  of  wealth  to  the  French  nation,  their  vine- 
yards, is  in  the  introduction  and  general  cultivation  of 
our  Phylloxera  proof  varieties  of  the  grape,  first  as  a  stock 
to  graft  the  vinifera  upon,  and  secondly  to  cultivate  our 
grapes  for  their  fruit,  if  they  can  find  varieties  which 
will  make  such  wines  as  the  popular  taste  there  demands. 
With  this  object  in  view  millions  upon  millions  of 
American  cuttings  and  plants  have  already  been  imported 
into  France,  and  the  demand  is  still  as  active  as  ever. 
But  the  Clinton  and  Concord,  which  were  first  imported 
for  that  purpose,  have  not  proved  satisfactory.  The  first 
succeeds  well  enough,  but  is  too  rambling  a  grower,  and 
not  even  a  good  stock,  on  account  of  its  tendency  to 
sucker,  and  the  quality  of  its  wine  is  not  good  enough 
to  suit  the  palate  of  the  French  connoisseurs.  The  Con- 
cord seems  to  fail  even  as  a  stock,  as  its  roots  are  too 
near  the  surface,  and  it  ripens  its  fruit  and  wood  too 
early.  The  hot  summers  there  appear  to  affect  it,  and  it 
turns  yellow  prematurely.  The  Lenoir,  or  Jacques  as 
they  call  it  there,  for  a  time  promised  to  be  all  they  wanted, 
as  it  was  vigorous  and  made  an  exquisite  red  wine.  But 
last  summer  the  dry-rot  appeared  upon  it  also,  the  Cun- 
ningham and  Herbemont  have  been  imported  largely,  but 
they  fear  that  thoy  will  not  be  quite  hardy  enough  for 


AXD   WIKE   MAKING.  107 

Northern  France.  The  Norton's,  Cynthiana,  and  Her- 
mann seem  not  to  be  quite  satisfactory  in  their  growth, 
though  their  wines  are  all  they  desire.  However,  if  they 
have  been  mostly  grafted  upon  vinifera  stocks,  this  is  not 
surprising,  for  when  the  root  is  destroyed  or  weakened, 
the  graft  can  not  nourish,  and  it  is  rather  difficult  to 
establish  a  vineyard  of  them  even  here  ;  but  when  once 
established,  it  will  last.  Their  attention  is  now  drawn 
towards  the  Taylor,  as  a  very  easy  vine  to  propagate,  and 
an  excellent  stock  to  graft  upon,  and  if  we  once  have 
varieties  which  have  the  Phylloxera  proof  roots  of  the 
Taylor,  and  which  besides  are  abundant  bearers,  as  we 
now  seem  to  have  in  the  Elvira  and  her  sisters,  we  have 
found  what  is  desired,  and  the  supposition  is  but  natural 
that  they  will  become  in  time  the  wine  grapes  of  the 
whole  civilized  world.  It  is  indeed  wonderful  that, 
when  this  insect  threatens  to  destroy  the  grape  vines  of 
the  Old  World,  its  remedy  should  be  found  here  in  our 
Missouri  vineyards,  and  it  may  truly  be  called  providen- 
tial. It  would  require  too  much  space  to  give  the  full 
natural  history  of  the  insect,  and  I  refer  those  who  wish 
to  study  it  to  the  valuable  Report  *  of  Prof.  Riley,  of 
which  I  copy  the  most  important  part  : 

How  THE  PHYLLOXERA  AFFECTS  THE  VIKE. —  Prof. 
Eiley  says  :  "  The  result  which  follows  the  puncture  of 
the  Root-Louse  is  an  abnormal  swelling,  differing  in  form 
according  to  the  particular  part  and  texture  of  the  root. 
These  swellings,  which  are  generally  commenced  at  the 
tips  of  the  rootlets,  eventually  rot,  and  the  lice  forsake 
them  and  betake  themselves  to  fresh  ones.  The  decay 
affects  the  parts  adjacent  to  the  swellings,  and  on  the 
more  fibrous  roots  cuts  off  the  supply  of  sap  to  all  parts 
beyond.  As  these  last  decompose,  the  lice  congregate 

*  Sixth  Annual  Report  on  the  Noxious,  Beneficial,  and  other  Insects 
of  tbe  State  of  Missouri,  by  C.  V.  Riley,  State  Entomologist.  St.  Louis, 
Mo.,  1874. 


108  AMEEICAK   GKAPE   GROWIKG 

on  the  larger  ones,  until  at  last  the  root  system  literally 
wastes  away. 

"  During  the  first  year  of  attack,  there  are  scarcely  any 
outward  manifestations  of  disease,  though  the  fibrous 
roots,  if  examined,  will  be  found  covered  with  nodosities, 
particularly  in  the  latter  part  of  the  growing  season. 
The  disease  is  then  in  its  incipient  stage.  The  second 
year  all  these  fibrous  roots  vanish,  and  the  lice  not  only 
prevent  the  formation  of  new  ones,  but,  as  just  stated, 
settle  on  the  larger  roots,  which  they  injure  by  causing 
hypertrophy  of  the  parts  punctured,  which  also  eventu- 
ally become  disorganized  and  rot.  At  this  stage  the  out- 
ward symptoms  of  the  disease  first  become  manifest,  in  a 
sickly,  yellowish  appearance  of  the  leaf  and  a  reduced 
growth  of  cane.  As  the  roots  continue  to  decay,  these 
symptoms  become  more  acute,  until  by- about  the  third 
year  the  vine  dies.  When  the  vine  is  about  dying  it  is 
generally  impossible  to  discover  the  cause  of  the  death, 
the  lice,  which  had  been  so  numerous  the  first  and  second 
years  of  invasion,  having  left  for  fresh  pasturage." 

"  The  life-history  of  the  Grape  Phylloxera  may  be  thus 
epitomized  :  It  hibernates  mostly  as  a  young  larva,  tor- 
pidly attached  to  the  roots  of  the  vine,  and  so  deepened 
in  color  as  generally  to  be  of  a  dull  brassy-brown,  and, 
therefore,  with  difficulty  perceived,  as  the  roots  are  often 
of  the  same  color.  With  the  renewal  of  vine  growth  in 
the  spring,  this  larva  moults,  rapidly  increases  in  size,  and 
soon  commences  laying  eggs.  These  eggs,  in  due  time, 
give  birth  to  young,  which  soon  become  virginal,  egg- 
laying  mothers,  like  the  first ;  and,  like  them,  always  re- 
main wingless.  Five  or  six  generations  of  these  partheno- 
genetic,  egg-bearing,  apterous  mothers  follow  each  other  ; 
when — about  the  middle  of  July,  in  this  latitude — some 
of  the  individuals  begin  to  acquire  wings.  These  are  all 
females,  and  like  the  wingless  mothers,  they  are  partheno- 
genetic.  Having  issued  from  the  ground,  while  in  the 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  109 

pupa  state,  they  rise  in  the  air  and  spread  to  new  vine- 
yards, where  they  deliver  themselves  of  their  issue  in  the 
form  of  eggs  or  egg-like  bodies — usually  two  or  three  in 
number,  and  not  exceeding  eight — and  then  perish. 
These  eggs  are  of  two  sizes,  the  larger  about  0.02  inch 
long,  and  the  smaller  about  three-fifths  of  that  length. 
In  the  course  of  a  fortnight  they  produce  the  sexual  indi- 
vidual, the  larger  ones  giving  birth  to  females,  the  smaller 
to  males.  These  sexual  individuals  are  born  for  no  other 
purpose  than  the  reproduction' of  their  kind,  and  are 
without  means  of  flight,  or  of  taking  food,  or  excreting. 
They  are  quite  active  and  couple  readily  ;  one  male  be- 
ing capable,  no  doubt,  of  serving  several  females,  as  Bal- 
biani  found  to  be  the  case  with  the  European  quercus. 
The  abdomen  of  the  female,  after  impregnation,  en- 
larges somewhat,  and  she  is  soon  delivered  of  a  solitary 
egg,  which  differs  from  the  ordinary  eggs  of  the  parthe- 
nogenetic  mother  only  in  becoming  somewhat  darker. 
This  impregnated  egg  gives  birth  to  a  young  louse,  which 
becomes  a  virginal,  egg-bearing,  wingless  mother,  and 
thus  recommences  the  cycle  of  the  species'  evolution. 
But  one  of  the  most  important  discoveries  of  Balbiani  is 
that,  during  the  latter  part  of  the  season,  many  of  the 
wingless,  hypogean  mothers  perform  the  very  same  func- 
tion as  the  winged  one  ;  i.  e.,  they  lay  a  few  eggs  which 
are  of  two  sizes,  and  which  produce  males  and  females, 
organized  and  constructed  precisely  as  those  born  of  the 
winged  females,  and,  like  them,  producing  the  solitary 
impregnated  egg.  Thus,  the  interesting  fact  is  estab- 
lished that  even  the  winged  form,  is  by  no  means  essen- 
tial to  the  perpetuation  of  the  species ;  but  that,  if  all 
such  winged  individuals  were  destroyed  as  fast  as  they 
issue  from  the  ground,  the  species  could  still  go  on  mul- 
tiplying in  a  vineyard  from  year  to  year.  We  have, 
therefore,  the  spectacle  of  an  underground  insect  posses- 
sing the  power  of  continued  existence,  even  when  confined 


110  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

to  its  subterranean  retreats.  It  spreads  in  the  wingless 
state  from  vine  to  vine,  and  from  vineyard  to  vineyard, 
when  these  are  adjacent,  either  through  passages  in  the 
ground  itself,  or  over  the  surface.  At  the  same  time  it 
is  able,  in  the  winged  condition,  to  migrate  to  much 
more  distant  points.  The  winged  females,  as  before 
stated,  begin  to  appear  in  July,  and  continue  to  issue 
from  the  ground  until  vine  growth  ceases  in  the  fall. 
Yet  they  are  much  more  abundant  in  August  than  during 
any  other  month,  and  on  certain  days  may  be  said  to  lit- 
erally swarm.  Every  piece  of  root  a  few  inches  long,  and 
having  rootlets,  taken  from  an  infested  vine  at  this  sea- 
son, will  present  a  goodly  proportion  of  pupae  ;  and  an 
ordinary  quart  preserve  jar,  filled  with  such  roots  and 
tightly  closed,  willjhmrish  daily,  for  two  or  three  weeks, 
a  dozen  or  more  of  the  winged  females,  which  gather  on 
the  sides  of  the  jar  toward  the  light.  We  may  get  some 
idea,  from  this  fact,  of  the  immense  numbers  that  dis- 
perse through  the  air  to  new  fields,  from  a  single  acre  of 
infected  vines,  in  the  course  of  the  late  summer  and  fall 
months. 

"  If  to  the  above  account  we  add  that  occasionally 
individuals  abandon  their  normal  underground  habit,  and 
form  galls  upon  the  leaves  of  certain  varieties  of  grape- 
vine, we  have,  in  a  general  way,  the  whole  natural  his- 
tory of  the  species. " 

He  takes  the  ground  that  it  is  the  cause  of  most  of  the 
diseases  in  the  Ldbrusca  class,  and  especially  in  the 
Catawba,  as  a  vine  Avith  a  diseased  root  can  not  produce 
healthy  fruit,  and  these  conclusions  are  certainly  logical. 
He  advises  grafting  on  Phylloxera  proof  roots  as  a  reme- 
dy, and  to  those  wishing  to  save  such  varieties  as  the 
Catawba  and  Delaware,  this  is  certainly  the  best  course. 
But  I  think  that  they  are  already  superseded  by  grapes 
of  better  quality,  and  my  advice  is  to  plant  none  but 
Phylloxera  proof  varieties.  So  far  as  I  know,  the  follow- 


AND   WINE 

ing  varieties  are  especially  subject  to  its  ravages  :  Cataw- 
ba,  Delaware,  Hartford,  most  of  Rogers'  Hybrids,  lona, 
Isabella,  Creveling,  Diana,  Maxatawney,  Cassady,  Rebec- 
ca, Croton.  The  following  are  not  quite  exempt,  but  are 
so  vigorous  that  they  seem  but  little  injured  :  Concord, 
Martha,  Goethe,  Wilder,  Ives,  Perkins,  Telegraph,  Mary 
Ann.  The  whole  CBstivalis  and  cordifolia  group  appear 
to  be  free  from  its  ravages.  It  is  strange,  however,  that 
the  gall-producing  type  of  the  insect  will  prefer  the  leaves 
of  the  Taylor  and  Clinton,  while  the  type  which  works 
at  the  root  does  not  affect  them. 

The  other  insect  enemies,  although  very  numerous,  are 
not  so  devastating  as  the  Phylloxera. 

The  common  Gray  Cut-worm  will  often  eat  the  tender 
shoots  of  the  young  plantations,  and  draw  them  into  the 
ground  below.  It  can  be  readily  detected,  so  soon  as  its 
ravages  are  seen,  by  stirring  the  ground  about  the  vine, 
when  it  will  be  found  under  some  of  the  loose  clods, 
and  easily  killed. 

The  small  worms,  belonging  to  the  leaf-folding  class, 
some  of  them  white,  some  bluish-green,  have  already 
been  mentioned  under  "  Summer-pruning."  They 
should  be  destroyed  at  that  time ;  closely  watch  them 
when  they  make  their  webs  among  the  young  shoots,  as 
they  will  become  very  destructive  if  not  checked  in  time. 

Another  leaf -folder  comes  about  mid-summer,  making 
its  web  on  the  leaf,  drawing  it  together,  and  then  devour- 
ing its  own  house.  It  is  a  small,  whitish-gray,  active 
worm,  which  will  drop  to  the  ground  as  soon  as  disturbed. 
I  know  of  no  other  way  but  to  catch  and  destroy  it. 

Several  beetles  will  feed  on  the  young  buds  before  they 
expand,  one  about  the  size  and  color  of  a  hemp  seed ;  an- 
other is  of  a  steel-blue  color;  both  are  very  active.  They 
can  be  caught  in  early  morning,  when  they  are  yet  torpid, 
by  spreading  a  newspaper  under  the  vine  and  shaking  it, 
wlen  they  will  drop  upon  the  paper. 


112  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

The  Grape-vine  Fidia,  a  small  beetle,  ashy-gray,  some- 
times comes  in  swarms,  preying  on  the  foliage,  riddling 
it  completely,  and  even  attacking  the  young  fruit. 
Hand-shaking,  as  above,  in  the  morning,  is  also  the  best 
treatment  for  these,  as  well  as  for  the  Grape  Curculio. 

The  Thrip,  a  small,  three-cornered,  whitish  insect,  has 
sometimes  become  very  troublesome,  as  they  eat  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves  of  some  varieties,  especially  of 
the  CBstivalis  class,  when  the  leaf  will  show  rusty  specks 
on  the  surface,  and  eventually  drop.  Carrying  lighted 
torches  through  the  vineyard  at  night,  and  beating  the 
vines  to  disturb  them,  is  one  of  the  best  remedies,  as 
they  will  fly  into  the  flames.  They  are  a  great  annoy- 
ance and  should  be  destroyed  in  time,  before  they  get  too 
numerous,  as  they  will  defoliate  whole  vineyards.  It  is 
strange  that  they  have  almost  entirely  disappeared  in  our 
Missouri  vineyards, where  they  were  so  numerous  formerly, 
and  are  now  very  annoying  in  the  vineyards  on  Crooked 
Lake,  New  York,  where  I  saw  them  in  great  abundance. 

The  Aphis,  or  PJant  Louse,  covers  the  young  shoots 
of  the  vines  occasionally,  sucking  their  juice.  The  best 
remedy  is  taking  off  the  shoot,  and  crushing  them  under 
foot. 

The  Grape-vine  Sphinx  is  a  large,  green  worm,  with 
black  dots.  It  is  very  voracious,  but  can  easily  be  found 
and  destroyed.  The  worms  do  a  great  deal  of  mischief, 
but  fortunately  are  not  very  numerous.  The  best  remedy 
against  them,  and  all  other  caterpillars,  is  hand  picking. 

The  Rocky  Mountain  Locust,  or  Grasshopper,  as  it  is 
generally  called,  is  one  of  the  most  destructive  insects 
in  those  districts  invaded  by  it,  and  ruined  the  crops 
of  nearly  two  seasons  in  some  sections  in  1875.  Fortu- 
nately its  range  is  very  limited,  and  it  appears  but  rarely. 
But  when  once  it  gets  into  a  vineyard,  not  a  green  leaf 
or  shoot  is  left,  and  if  this  occurs  as  late  as  the  first  of 


AND  WINE   MAKING.  113 

June,  it  stunts  the  vines  for  the  next  season.  One  of  the 
best  remedies  is  to  dig  a  trench  2  to  3  feet  wide,  at  the 
side  of  the  vineyard,  from  whence  they  are  expected,  into 
which  they  will  tumble,  and  they  should  then  be  crushed 
by  dragging  a  log  or  roller  along  the  ditch.  If  this  is  done 
repeatedly  they  may  be  kept  out.  It  is  a  strange  occur- 
rence, however,  that  in  the  districts  which  they  invaded 
in  1875,  nearly  all  other  injurious  insects  have  since  dis- 
appeared, and  the  crop  of  last  season  was  exceptionally 
free  from  their  ravages. 

Wasps  and  Bees  are  sometimes  very  troublesome  when 
the  fruit  ripens,  wounding  the  berries  and  sucking  the 
juice.  A  great  many  can  be  caught  by  hanging  up  bottles 
with  a  little  molasses,  into  which  they  will  readily  crawl 
and  seal  their  fate.  But  while  there  are  many  injuri- 
ous insects,  we  may  also  count  some  of  them  among  our 
best  friends,  which  will  greatly  assist  in  destroying  the 
others,  and  which  we  should  hold  in  grateful  remem- 
brance. Among  these  is  the  little  Lady  Bug,  the  small 
red  or  yellow  and  black  beetle,  which  is  always  on  the 
look-out  and  very  active  in  destroying  the  Aphis  and 
White  Thrip.  These  should  be  fostered,  and  not  de- 
stroyed, as  is  done  by  many  ignorant  persons.  The  Man- 
tis, the  Rear  Horse,  or  Devil's  Horse,  as  it  is  often  called, 
but  the  correct  name  of  which  is  Camel  Cricket,  is  the 
friend  of  the  vine-grower.  It  destroys  countless  num- 
bers of  injurious  insects,  especially  the  native  grasshop- 
pers and  katydids,  which  are  so  apt  to  cut  off  the  bunches 
just  before  ripening.  They  and  their  eggs,  which  are 
often  found  on  the  vines  glued  together  in  a  mass,  like  a 
rather  square  cocoon,  should  be  carefully  preserved,  and 
even  colonized.  We  place  our  common  toad  among  our 
friends,  as  it  is  a  great  destroyer  of  noxious  insects,  and 
always  on  the  hunt  for  bugs  of  all  kinds.  The  toads  and 
our  common  active  little  lizards,  should  be  treated  with 
kindness  by  us,  not  killed,  as  they  are  by  many  unthink- 


114  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

ing  people  who  have  a  mistaken  idea  that  they  are  inju- 
rious and  poisonous. 

BIRDS. 

Generally  speaking  birds  are  the  friends  of  the  vintner, 
and  should  be  fostered,  not  repelled,  but  there  are  a  few 
species  which  rarely  visit  the  vineyard  except  to  feast 
upon  the  grapes,  and  these  should  be  destroyed.  The 
Oriole  is  one  of  these,  and  the  best  plan  to  get  the  little 
rascal  is  to  place  a  few  dry  bushes  above  the  trellis,  on 
which  he  will  alight  and  can  then  be  shot.  Or  these 
twigs  may  be  smeared  with  bird  lime,  to  which  he  will 
stick.  The  Bed-bird,  or  Cardinal,  the  Thrush,  and  Cat- 
bird, are  also  very  destructive,  and  it  is  still  an  open 
question  with  me  whether  to  feed  them  with  sweet  grapes 
or  to  kill  them  and  do  without  their  sweet  songs  in  the 
future.  But  our  pretty  little  Quails,  though  they  will  oc- 
casionally pick  berries  when  they  hang  within  their  reach, 
should  certainly  be  fostered,  not  killed  ;  for  they  devour  a 
great  quantity  of  insects  during  the  whole  year,  and  though 
passionately  fond  of  sport  myself,  I  can  not  find  it  in 
me  to  shoot  them  when  they  make  their  home  about  the 
vineyard.  Ducks,  chickens,  and  turkeys  are  also  very- 
beneficial,  destroying  a  multitude  of  injurious  insects, 
but  they  should  be  kept  out  while  the  fruit  ripens. 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  115 

CHAPTER   XXV. 

FROSTS— WINTER  PROTECTION. 

Our  winters  are  rarely  so  severe  as  to  injure  or  kill 
the  hardiest  varieties,  such  as  Concord  and  Goethe,  al- 
though the  winters  of  1863,  1872,  1874,  and  1878,  may 
be  cited  as  instances  when  even  these  and  Norton's  were  in- 
jured. They  often,  however,  harm  the  Herbemont,  Cun- 
ningham, and  Lenoir.  These  can  be  protected  by  bend- 
ing the  vines  down  in  the  fall,  and  covering  them  with 
earth  thrown  on  with  the  plow.  To  prepare  them  for 
this,  prune  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  fully  ripe,  and  after  a 
rain,  when  the  canes  bend  easily,  go  through,  and  while 
one  man  bends  the  canes  down  along  the  trellis,  let  the 
other  throw  a  few  spadefuls  of  earth  upon  them,  to  keep 
them  down.  Then  follow  with  the  plow,  and  they  can 
be  easily  covered.  But  do  not  take  them  up  in  spring 
until  danger  of  frost  is  over,  for  they  will  become  more 
tender  by  being  under  ground  all  winter,  and  even  a 
moderate  frost  will  injure  the  buds.  In  taking  up,  run  a 
fork  under  them  and  lift  them  out.  They  should  not  be 
covered  too  deep,  a  light  protection  is  enough  ;  but  to 
merely  bend  them  down  without  covering,  as  some  advise, 
is  worse  than  leaving  them  on  the  trellis,  as  they  are 
more  easily  injured  here,  where  we  do  not  often  have 
snow  to  cover  them.  All  hardy  varieties  should  be  cut 
loose  in  fall,  as  when  the  wind  can  sway  them  about  they 
are  not  so  apt  to  be  injured.  One  of  the  surest  preven- 
tives of  injury  by  frost  is,  however,  to  plant  none  but  the 
hardiest  varieties.  None  of  the  cordifolia  class,  as  far  as 
I  know,  have  ever  suffered,  and  here  again  the  Elvira 
stands  pre-eminent,  as  not  a  bud  was  hurt,  even  during 
the  hard  winters  of  1872-'74  and,  '78. 


116  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

But  while  we  have  methods  to  protect  even  the  most 
tender  in  winter,  by  a  little  extra  labor,  I  know  of  no 
generally  effective  means  of  protection  against  early  frosts 
in  fall  and  late  frosts  in  spring.  We  should,  therefore, 
avoid  all  locations  subject  to  these,  which  are  generally 
those  near  small  streams,  creeks,  and  rivulets,  while 
locations  on  the  large  rivers,  and  on  the  high  table  lands, 
are  generally  free  from  them,  and  have,  in  fact,  a  season 
of  a  month  earlier  in  spring,  and  a  month  later  in  fall, 
free  from  frosts.  This  is  certainly  very  important  to  the 
grape-grower,  and  he  should  look  to  it  closely  before 
choosing  his  location.  It  is  sad  and  disheartening  to  see 
the  fair  promise  of  early  spring  browned,  wilted,  and 
blighted  by  a  single  night's  frost.  But  if  it  does  occur, 
as  it  sometimes  will,  even  in  the  best  locations,  do  not 
become  altogether  discouraged.  Every  bud  on  the  vine 
is,  in  fact,  a  triple  one.  The  main  fruit  bud  in  the  center 
will  generally  start  first,  and  if  this  is  destroyed,  the  two 
secondary  buds  will  often  push,  and  although  they  will 
not  produce  so  many  or  as  large  bunches,  will  often  yield 
a  pretty  fair  crop. 

But  the  vines  are  threatened  with  the  same  danger  in 
fall  in  these  unfavorable  locations  ;  to  have  one's  grapes 
and  the  still  growing  canes  withered  by  an  early  frost  in 
fall,  when  just  ripening,  and  fit  for  nothing  but  vinegar, 
is  a  sad  disappointment.  Therefore  look  well  to  this, 
and  do. not  select  an  unfavorable  location,  when  there  is 
an  abundance  of  the  best  to  be  had. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  117 

CHAPTER   XXVI. 

GIRDLING,  THINNING,  AND   MISCELLANEOUS  MATTERS. 

The  method  of  girdling  appears  to  have  been  invented 
by  Col.  Buchatt,  of  Metz,  in  1745.  He  claimed  for  it 
that  it  would  also  greatly  improve  the  quality  of  the  fruit, 
as  well  as  hasten  its  maturity.  It  cannot  be  denied  that 
it  accomplishes  the  latter  ;  it  also  seems  to  increase  the 
size  of  the  berries,  but  I  hardly  think  the  fruit  compares 
in  flavor  with  that  ripened  in  a  natural  way.  But  it 
may  be  of  practical  benefit  to  those  who  wish  to  grow  the 
fruit  for  early  market,  as  it  will  enable  them  to  supply 
their  customers  a  week  earlier,  and  also  make  the  fruit 
look  better.  I  will,  therefore,  describe  it  briefly.  It 
can  be  done  either  on  the  wood  of  last  year's  growth,  or 
upon  the  bearing  shoot  itself ;  but  in  any  case  only  upon 
such  as  can  be  spared  at  next  fall  pruning.  If  you  de- 
sire to  affect  the  fruit  of  a  whole  cane,  or  arm,  cut  away  a 
ring  of  bark  by  passing  your  knife  all  around  it,  and 
make  another  circle  about  half  an  inch  above  the  first, 
taking  out  the  ring  of  bark  between  them.  It  should  be 
done  immediately  after  the  fruit  is  set.  The  bunches  of 
fruit  above  the  incision  will  become  larger,  and  the  fruit 
ripen  and  color  finely  about  a  week  before  the  fruit  on 
the  other  canes.  If  a  single  shoot  only  is  to  be  affected, 
make  the  ring  just  above  its  base.  Of  course,  neither 
cane  nor  shoot,  thus  girdled,  can  be  used  for  bearing 
next  season,  and  must  be  cut  away.  About  the  same  re- 
sult is  obtained  by  twisting  a  wire  tightly  around  the 
vine  and  thus  arresting  the  flow  of  sap  downwards,  which 
then  develops  the  fruit  much  faster. 

Kipening  can  also  be  hastened  by  planting  against  the 
south  side  of  a  wall  or  board  fence,  where  the  reflection 
of  the  rays  of  the  sun  will  create  a  greater  degree  of 
warmth. 


118  AMERICA^   GRAPE   GROWING 

But  nothing  is  more  absurd  than  the  practice  of  some, 
who  will  take  away  the  leaves  from  the  fruit,  to  hasten 
maturity.  The  leaves  are  the  lungs  of  the  plant,  the 
conductors  and  elaborators  of  sap,  and  nothing  can  be  more 
injurious  than  to  take  them  away  at  the  very  time  when 
most  needed.  The  natural  consequence  is  the  withering 
and  wilting  of  the  bunches,  and  should  they  ripen  at  all, 
they  will  be  flat  and  deficient  in  sugar  and  flavor.  The 
injurious  "  cutting  in  "  of  the  young  growth  late  in 
August,  already  referred  to,  is  about  of  a  piece  with  this 
folly,  and  will  not  only  be  detrimental  to  the  fruit,  but 
also  to  the  ripening  of  the  wood  for  next  year.  While 
all  crowding  of  the  young  growth  with  the  bearing  caries 
should  be  avoided,  to  give  free  circulation  of  air,  yet  the 
leafy  canopy  of  the  young  canes  over  the  top  of  the  trellis, 
will  be  in  the  highest  degree  beneficial  to  the  ripening  of 
the  fruit.  There  is  nothing  more  pleasing  to  the  eye 
than  a  vineyard  in  September,  with  its  wealth  of  dark- 
green  foliage,  and  the  rich  clusters  of  the  fruit  beneath, 
coyly  peeping  from  under  their  leafy  covering.  Good 
fruit  will  only  ripen  in  partial  shade,  and  such  grapes 
will  have  a  rich  bloom  and  color,  as  well  as  a  thin  skin 
and  a  rich  flavor,  which  those  hanging  in  the  scorching 
rays  of  the  sun  can  never  attain. 

THINNING    THE    FRUIT. 

It  will  sometimes  be  necessary  to  thin  the  fruit,  in 
order  to  more  thoroughly  develop  the  remaining  bunches. 
The  best  thinning  is  the  reduction  of  bunches  and  bear- 
ing shoots,  at  the  first  summer-pruning,  and  which  has 
already  been  mentioned.  Let  the  vine  dresser  always  re- 
member that  one  fine  bunch  is  worth  more  than  two  or 
three  small,  badly  grown  ones  and,  therefore,  take  away 
all  the  small,  imperfect  bunches  and  weak  shoots.  If  the 
number  of  bunches  on  each  fruit-bearing  branch  is  re- 
duced to  two,  it  will  do  no  injury,  but  make  them  so 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  119 

much  more  heavy  and  perfect.  Thinning  of  the  berries 
with  a  small  pair  of  scissors,  often  resorted  to  with 
grapes  grown  under  glass,  is  a  very  laborious  process  to 
follow  in  vineyard  culture  ;  though  it  will  certainly  make 
the  remaining  berries  more  perfect,  it  will  hardly  be 
generally  adopted. 

RENEWING  OLD  VINES. 

Should  a  vineyard  become  old  and  feeble,  it  can  be  re- 
newed by  layering.  To  prepare  for  this,  prune  all  the 
old  wood  from  the  vines,  leaving  but  the  thriftiest  young 
cane,  then  dig  a  trench  from  the  vine  along  the  trellis, 
say  3  feet  long  and  10  inches  deep,  cut  off  the  surface 
roots  of  the  vine  and  bend  it  down  into  the  trench, 
fastening  with  a  hook,  and  let  about  three  buds  of  the 
young  cane  come  out  above  the  ground,  at  the  end  of 
the  trench.  Then  fill  up  with  well  pulverized  soil.  The 
vine  will  make  roots  at  every  joint,  become  vigorous  and 
young  again.  Of  course  a  season's  crop  will  be  lost,  but 
the  vine  will  amply  repay  for  it  the  season  following. 

A  FEW   NECESSARY  IMPLEMENTS. 

PRUNING  SHEARS. — These  are  very  handy,  as  with 
them  the  work  can  be  done  quicker  and  easier  than  with 


Fig.  23.— PRUNING  SHEARS. 

a  knife,  and  but  a  slight  pressure  of  the  hand  will  cut 
a  strong  vine.  Figure  22  gives  the  shape  of  one  for 
heavy  pruning.  They  are  now  made  by  several  establish- 


120 


AMERICAN  GRAPE  GROWING 


ments,  and  can  be  had  at  nearly  all  good  hardware  stores. 
The  springs  should  be  of  brass,  as  steel  springs  are  apt  to 
break.  A  much  lighter  and  smaller  kind,  with  but  one 
spring,  is  very  convenient  for  gathering  grapes,  clipping 
out  unripe  or  imperfect  berries,  and  also  in  making  cut- 
tings. Shears  will  cut  the  stem  easily  and  smoothly,  with- 
out jarring  the  vine,  and  are  much  superior  to  a  knife. 
No  one  who  has  tried  them  will  want  to  use  a  knife  again. 
PRUNING  SAWS. — These  are  sometimes  necessary  to 
cut  out  old,  diseased  stumps,  although  if  a  vine  is  well 
managed  this  will  seldom  be  necessary.  Figure  23  shows 


Fig.  23.— PRUNING  SAW. 

a  kind  very  convenient  for  the  purpose,  as  also  for  orchard 
pruning.  The  bow  is  of  steel,  the  blade  narrow,  and  so 
connected  with  the  wooden  handle,  that  it  can  be  turned 
in  any  direction,  and  can  be  tightened  by  a  screw  and 
nut  above. 


WltfE   MAKIHG.  *      121 

CHAPTER    XXVII. 

GATHERING  AND  MARKETING  THE  FRUIT. 

Here,  of  Course,  the  yineyardist  aims  mainly  at  profit, 
and  is  often  induced  to  cut  the  fruit  when  hardly  colored, 
that  he  may  realize  a  higher  price  by  being  early  in  the 
market.  But  if  he  values  his  reputation  and  wishes  to 
create  a  lasting  demand  for  his  fruit,  he  should  not  mar- 
ket it  before  it  is,  at  least,  fully  colored  and  eatable. 
The  first  Hartfords  (a  very  poor  grape  even  when  fully 
ripe),  which  are  brought  into  market  but  half-colored, 
sour  and  unripe,  generally  spoil  tjie  demand  for  grapes 
for  weeks  thereafter.  People  buy  them,  try  them,  and 
pronounce  them,  as  they  really  are,  unfit  to  eat,  and  will 
not  touch  them  again  for  some  time.  Wait,  therefore, 
until  your  fruit  is  fully  colored  and  fit  to  eat ;  whoever 
buys  of  you  then  will  buy  again,  and  his  stomach  will 
not  be  soured  and  poisoned  by  unripe  fruit.  Again,  what 
you  may  lose  in  price,  you  will  gain  in  steady  demand 
and  higher  figures  all  through  the  season,  besides  gaining 
in  weight,  for  the  riper  the  grapes  (at  least,  until  they 
are  over-ripe  and  shrivel),  the  heavier  they  will  weigh. 
Moreover,  if  grapes  are  not  ripe  when  cut,  they  will  shrivel 
and  wilt  (as  they  will  not-ripen  after  gathering),  an'd  thus 
will  look  indifferently  if  cut  but  a  day  or  two. 

To  ship  them  any  considerable  distance  to  market,  they 
should  be  packed  in  shallow  boxes,  not  more  than  two 
layers  above  each  other.  Paper  boxes,  holding  about  3  to 
5  Ibs.  each,  are  now  much  used  for  the  purpose,  and  fitted 
into  crates  so  as  to  ship  securely.  They  are  more  con- 
venient for  the  trade  than  the  crates  formerly  used,  with 
three  drawers,  and  which  are,  therefore,  nearly  abandoned. 
6 


122  AMERICAN   GRAPE  GROWING 

Gather  only  in  dry  weather,  cut  the  bunches  carefully, 
with  as  long  a  stem  as  possible  for  convenient  handling, 
and  clip  out  carefully  all  unripe,  shrivelled,  or  decayed 
berries,  taking  care  not  to  rub  off  their  bloom.  Then  lay 
them  evenly,  with  stems  downwards,  fill  the  boxes  well 
to  prevent  shaking,  filling  all  interstices  with  small 
bunches.  It  is  better  to  press  down  slightly  and  evenly 
with  the  cover,  than  to  pack  too  loose,  as  they  at  any  rate 
shake  down  in  carriage.  The  riper  they  are  the  safer  they 
will  carry.  I  have  always  obtained  a  higher  price  by  wait- 
ing until  the  rush  was  over,  and  then  selling  when  they  be- 
came scarce.  The  Concord,  Martha,  Wilder,  Goethe,  and 
Elvira,  have  a  very  thin  skin,  and  can  not,  therefore,  be 
kept  much  after  the  first  of  October,  but  Lindley,  Ives, 
Catawba,  and  especially  North  Carolina  and  Bogers'  No. 
2,  can  be  kept  for  months,  having  a  tough  skin.  In- 
deed, Eogers'  No.  2  would  keep  until  March  if  stored 
away,  packed  in  small  boxes,  in  an  even,  cool  tempera- 
ture. Norton's  Virginia  and  Cynthiana  can  easily  be 
kept  all  winter,  and  are  very  spicy  and  good,  though  they 
will  shrivel  somewhat.  But,  as  mentioned  before,  any 
variety  must  be  fully  ripe  to  keep  well.  I  think  too  little 
attention  has  been  paid  to  the  keeping  of  grapes  until 
the  holidays,  at  least,  when  high  prices  could  be  realized 
for  them  ;  that  this  can  be  done  has  been  proved  be- 
yond a  doubt.  But  for  long  keeping  choose  only  the  va- 
rieties with  rather  tough  skins,  and  keep  them  in  an 
even  temperature  of  about  40°.  They  will  keep  better  if 
fine  paper  is  put  between  the  layers,  and  the  room  should 
have  the  necessary  ventilation.  Examine  from  time  to 
time,  and  remove  all  defective  berries. 

The  best  package  for  carrying  grapes  to  market,  and 
which  is  now  used  almost  entirely,  is  a  cheap  basket  made 
of  splints.  These  are  made  to  hold  8,  12,  and  18  Ibs., 
with  a  cover  fastened  by  clasps  or  wire.  They  can  be  had 
at  the  factory  at  50c.,  GOc.,  and  70c.  per  dozen;  they 


WItfE   MAKING.  133 

have  a  bow  handle  in  the  middle,  which  serves  as  a  pro- 
tection against  tumbling  about,  and  is  also  convenient  in 
carrying.  The  basket  is  weighed  with  the  fruit  and  sold 
at  the  same  price  per  pound,  and  it  is  well  worth  this 
price  to  the  purchaser  for  home  use.  This  basket  seems 
to  be  the  perfection  of  a  fruit  package,  and  I  think  will 
come  into  general  use  for  peaches,  pears,  plums,  etc.,  be- 
ing light,  cheap,  durable,  handy,  and  effectually  protect- 
ing the  fruit. 

It  was  a  pleasing  sight,  indeed,  to  see  the  stacks  of  these 
baskets  at  every  vineyard  and  wharf  on  Crooked  Lake, 
waiting  for  the  little  steamers  which  cross  and  re-cross 
the  Lake  to  take  them  to  Penn  Yan,  from  whence  they  are 
shipped  to  all  the  principal  city  markets;  finding  their 
way  to  New  York,  Boston,  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  etc. , 
to  be  sold  there  at  a  price  which  enables  even  the  poorest 
family  to  feast  occasionally  on  their  luscious  contents. 
There  is  a  vast  trade  established  in  them  already,  which 
is  steadily  increasing.  We  can  readily  imagine  that  these 
shores  will  soon  become  one  of  the  greatest  of  summer 
resorts,  and  that  thousands  upon  thousands  will  leave  the 
crowded  cities,  for  a  few  weeks  at  least,  to  take  a  "  grape 
cure,"  as  is  now  a  common  practice  in  Europe,  to  return 
to  their  duties  in  active  life  strengthened  and  invigorated 
by  the  pure  air  and  health-giving  diet.  Truly  this  coun- 
try is  a  wonderful  one,  rich  in  all  of  God's  blessings. 
That  the  American  citizen,  constantly  in  the  rush  and 
whirl  of  business,  needs,  above  any  and  all  others,  such 
recreation  as  a  visit  like  this  would  afford,  none  will  de- 
ny. Let  me  hope  that  it  will  soon  become  fashionable 
(and  it  need  but  become  so  to  be  adopted  by  all  who  can 
afford  it),  to  devote  a  few  weeks  annually  to  living  a  life 
of  innocent  recreation  among  the  vineyards,  and  come 
back  better,  healthier,  and  stronger  men  and  women.  To 
accomplish  this  will  be  one  of  the  successes  of  grape  cul- 
ture, and  not  the  least. 


12-i  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING. 

GATHERING     THE    FRUIT    FOR    WINE. 

All  varieties  where  it  is  desirable  to  develop  the  fullest 
aroma,  should  be  allowed  to  hang  as  long  as  it  is  safe  to 
leave  them,  as  the  longer  they  hang  on  the  vines,  the 
more  will  their  peculiar  aroma  be  developed,  and  also  the 
greater  the  amount  of  sugar.  It  will  make  n  very  material 
difference  in  the  quality  of  such  wines,  if  allowed  to  hang 
even  a  week  later.  But  those  varieties  of  which  the  pecu- 
liar aroma  is  not  desirable,  and  which  must  at  any  rate 
be  improved  by  adding  sugar,  had  better  be  taken  when 
barely  ripe.  Why  I  make  this  difference  will  be  more 
fully  explained  in  "  Wine  Making." 

In  gathering  for  wine  use  clean  tin  or  wooden  pails,  cut 
the  stems  as  short  as  possible,  and  clip  or  pick  out  all  un- 
ripe, dry,  or  rotten  berries,  leaving  none  but  perfectly 
sound  berries  on  the  bunch.  The  further  process  will 
be  described  in  Part  III. 


PART    II. 

EXPERIENCE  OF  OTHER  GRAPE  GROWERS, 
WITH  ITEMS  OF  GENERAL  INTEREST. 


125 


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

GRAPE    GROWING    IN    SOUTHERN    OHIO. 

BY  GBO.   W.    CAMPBELL. 

DELAWARE,  0.,  Nov.  25,  1879. 
George  ffusmann,  Esq.  : 

DEAR  SIR. — Your  favor  of  last  month,  asking  from 
me  some  notes  upon  grapes,  reached  me  at  a  time  when 
I  was  so  much  occupied  that  I  was  unable  to  give  it  the 
attention  I  desired,  and  it  has,  therefore,  lain  unanswered 
longer  than  I  intended. 

My  experience  with  grapes,  as  you  know,  though  ex- 
tending through  many  years,  and  including  a  large  num- 
ber of  varieties,  has  been  mainly  that  of  an  amateur  or 
experimentalist  ;  for  though  I  have  grown  the  vines 
largely  in  a  commercial  way,  I  have  never  made  the  grow- 
ing of  grapes  an  important  consideration,  beyond  what 
was  necessary  to  ascertain  their  character,  quality,  and 
comparative  value. 

This  portion  of  Central  Ohio  is  not  specially  favorable 
for  grape  growing,  being  subject  to  great  extremes,  and 
often  sudden  changes  of  temperature.  Frosts,  late  in 
spring,  often  injure,  and  sometimes  quite  destroy  the 
grape  crop  about  the  time  of  blooming  and  setting  of  the 
fruit.  And  we  usually  have  frosts  so  early  in  autumn  that 
only  the  early  and  medium-early  varieties  can  be  relied 
upon  to  mature.  I  have  never  seen  either  Catawba  or 
Goethe  perfectly  matured  here  in  fully  exposed,  open-air 
culture.  A  range  of  temperature  from  98°  in  the  shade 
in  summer,  to  25°,  and  even  30°  below  zero  in  winter,  is 
also  extremely  trying,  and  none,  except  the  hardiest  vari- 
eties of  grape  vines,  can  endure  such  a  climate  without 
winter  protection. 
127 


128  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

Mildew  of  the  foliage  and  rotting  of  the  fruit,  are,  I 
think,  less  prevalent  here  than  in  many  other  places 
which  are  more  favorable  for  grape  growing  in  other 
respects.  I  mention  these  things,  as  tending  to  form  or 
modify  my  opinions  upon  the  character  and  value  of 
varieties,  believing  you  would  better  appreciate  my  views 
by  having  a  pretty  full  understanding  of  the  conditions 
under  which  they  are  formed. 

Grapes  may  be  properly  divided  into  two  distinct 
classes  :  First,  those  that  are,  by  their  hardy  and  healthy 
character,  adapted  to  general  cultivation  ;  and  second, 
those  that  are  only  suited  to  special  or  particular  locali- 
ties. These  might  again  be  sub-divided  into  grapes  for 
special  uses,  as  for  the  table,  and  for  wine  making  ;  but 
I  can  not,  in  the  limits  of  this  brief  communication  at- 
tempt anything  like  a  classification  of  varieties,  as  I  pre- 
sume you  have  already  done  this  in  a  manner  far  beyond 
my  capabilities. 

As  in  most  parts  of  the  country,  the  Concord  grape  has 
been  more  extensively  planted  here  than  any  other,  and 
upon  the  whole,  it  may  be  said,  its  success  has  been 
greater  than  that  of  any  other  variety.  For  many  years 
after  its  introduction  it  was  exempt  from  both  mildew 
and  rot,  yielding  regular  and  good  crops.  It  is  still  free 
from  mildew  of  the  foliage,  but  in  unfavorable  seasons, 
when  there  is  an  excess  of  rain  with  much  warm,  sultry, 
foggy  weather  about  the  time  the  fruit  approaches  ma- 
turity, in  common  with  most  other  varieties,  it  has 
suifered  seriously  from  rotting.  The  season  just  past 
has  been  a  favorable  one,  and  except  where  the  vines 
were  injured  by  the  extreme  severity  of  the  previous  win- 
ter, they  have  borne  healthy  and  well  matured  crops. 

From  the  Concord  have  been  grown  many  seedlings, 
some  of  which  have  attained  considerable  popularity,  and 
will,  doubtless,  prove  permanently  valuable  for  the  sec- 
tions where  this  class  of  grapes  are  most  successful. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  129 

Among  the  most  prominent  of  these  are  Martha,  Eva, 
Lady,  Worden's  Seedling,  and  Moore's  Early,  the  first 
named  three  being  white,  and  the  latter  two  black  vari- 
eties. The  Martha  is,  perhaps,  too  well  known  to  need 
special  description.  Eva  is  a  twin-sister  of  Martha,  and 
the  two  are  much  alike.  Several  intelligent  growers, 
however,  are  positive  that  they  are  quite  distinct,  with 
preferences  for  Eva,  especially  as  to  quality. 

THE  LADY  grape  is  quite  distinct  from  the  above,  or 
any  other  Concord  seedling  that  I  have  seen.  It  is  speci- 
ally remarkable  for  healthy  growth,  hardiness,  very  early 
ripening,  and  quality  superior  to  any  of  its  class,  or  to 
any  other  grape  ripening  at  the  same  time.  I  believe  it, 
is  generally  conceded  to  be  the  best  very  early  grape  yet 
introduced.  It  ripens  here  from  the  10th  to  the  20th  of 
August,  or  two  to  three  weeks  earlier  than  Concord.  In 
color,  it  is  what  is  usually  called  white,  but  is  a  light, 
yellowish-green,  and  amber-tinted  when  exposed  to  the 
sun.  In  size  the  berry  is  fully  as  large  as  Concord,  clus- 
ters somewhat  smaller.  In  flavor  more  delicate  than 
Concord,  as  well  as  more  vinous  and  sprightly.  Its 
growth  is  compact  and  healthy,  often  a  little  slow  for  the 
first  year  or  two,  but  constantly  increasing  in  vigor,  and 
my  older  vines,  growing  in  a  stiff  clay,  are  all  that  I 
could  wish,  and  make  as  strong  and  healthy  vines,  and  as 
much  wood  as  any  Concords  I  have.  It  has  been  notice- 
able here  that  all  the  white  seedlings  from  Concord  have 
been  much  less  disposed  to  rot  than  their  parent.  Neither 
Martha,  Eva,  nor  Lady,  has  ever  been  seriously  affected 
by  this  malady,  and  they  have  usually  escaped  entirely 
when  Concord  has  suffered  badly.  I  regard  the  Lady 
grape  as  chiefly  valuable  as  an  early  grape  for  home  use 
and  for  near  market.  The  skin  is  quite  thin,  and  would 
not  bear  rough  handling,  or  shipping  to  distant  markets, 
without  great  care.  It  has  not  been  to  my  knowledge 
tested  for  wine  making,  but  I  believe  it  will  be  found  su- 


130  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

perior  to  the  Martha  for  this  purpose,  apparently  having 
more  vinous  acid. 

WORDEN'S  SEEDLING  I  regard  as  an  improvement  upon 
the  Concord,  being  earlier,  handsomer  in  bunch  and 
berry,  and,  to  my  taste,  better  flavored.  The  vine  is 
vigorous  and  healthy,  and  though  a  little  weaker  at  first, 
when  well  established  it  is  equal  to  Concord,  and  fully  as 
productive.  It  ripens  here  a  week  or  ten  days  before 
Concord,  and  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  promising  of 
its  class. 

MOORE'S  EARLY  is,  in  many  respects,  similar  to  Wor- 
den ;  both  Concord  seedlings,  and  in  general  habit  of 
growth  and  appearance  closely  following  the  parent  stock. 
This  variety  has  been,  I  think,  greatly  misrepresented  as 
too  early.  I  fruited  it  the  past  season  and  found  it  not 
more  than  ten  days  earlier  than  Concord,  instead  of  a 
month,  as  had  been  claimed.  There  was  scarcely  any 
difference  in  time  of  maturity  between  it  and  Worden, 
and  I  could  not  see  that  Moore's  Early  was,  in  any  re- 
spect, superior  to  it.  It  is  but  just  to  say,  I  have  only 
fruited  it  one  season,  and  upon  but  two  vines,  and  my 
observations  are  made  by  comparison  of  the  performance 
of  the  different  kinds  the  past  year. 

THE  BRIGHTON  grape  has  been  extensively  planted, 
and  is  quite  prominent  before  the  public  as  a  promising 
new  variety.  I  have  seen  very  handsome  and  good  grapes 
on  exhibition  from  the  introducers  of  it,  but  neglecting 
to  give  it  winter  protection  it  has  been  killed  to  the 
ground  two  years  in  succession,  and  I  have  not  yet  had  it 
in  fruit.  The  •  vine  is  vigorous  in  growth  ;  in  general 
habit  and  appearance  much  like  some  of  Rogers'  Hybrids, 
and  I  think,  will  succeed  wherever  Rogers'  grapes  can  be 
profitably  grown. 

PURITY. — The  grape  which  I  have  named  "  Purity,"  I 
yet  have  hopes  may  prove  valuable,  for  it  still  maintains 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  131 

its  progressive  character,  improving  in  size  of  bunch  and 
berry  every  year.  The  vine  is  a  very  strong,  hardy,  and 
healthy  grower,  making  heavy,  short-jointed  canes,  and 
large,  thick  foliage.  In  quality  and  flavor,  the  best  of  all 
the  native  grapes  I  have  ever  grown,  Delaware  not  ex- 
cepted.  It  more  resembles,  in  flavor,  the  foreign  grapes 
of  the  Frontignac  family,  than  anything  I  can  compare  it 
with,  although  it  is,  in  every  characteristic,  a  pure  na- 
tive of  the  hardiest  and  healthiest  type.  Its  one  fault  is 
want  of  size,  in  both  bunch  and  berry.  Its  clusters  are 
beautifully  formed,  never  crowded,  and  never  loose.  In 
size,,  the  berries  were  the  past  season  perhaps  a  little 
larger  than  Delawares,  the  bunches  averaged  less.  The 
parent  vine  made  a  remarkably  strong  growth  the  past 
season,  and  I  think  may  now  be  considered  as  fully  de- 
veloped. It  has  proved  abundantly  productive,  and  if 
my  hopes  and  expectations,  as  to  improvement  in  size,  are 
realized  the  coming  season,  I  shall  probably  introduce 
and  offer  it  as  a  new  and  valuable  variety.  The  Dela- 
ware is  one  of  its  parents.  As  to  the  other,  I  am  not  cer- 
tain whether  it  was  Catawba  or  Martha. 

THE  DELAWARE  is  still  grown  in  this  neighborhood, 
and  is,  perhaps,  more  planted  than  any  other  variety 
after  the  Concord.  Mildew  of  the  foliage,  and  its  ten- 
dency to  overbear,  are  the  only  drawbacks  to  its  successful 
Culture.  Its  entire  exemption  from  rot,  even  in  the  most 
unfavorable  seasons,  and  under  both  neglect  and  ill  treat- 
ment, is  something  remarkable,  and  where  mildew  of  the 
foliage  does  not  prevail,  the  Delaware  may  be  regarded 
as  one  of  our  best,  most  reliable,  and  most  profitable 
grapes.  And  where  grape  growing  is  pursued  with  rea- ' 
sonable  skill  and  intelligence,  the  proper  use  of  Sulphur 
will  control  the  mildew,  and  the  timely  exercise  of  brains 
will  prevent  the  evils  of  overbearing. 

THE  ELVIRA  has  many  good  qualities,  but  I  think  will 
be  of  more  value  as  a  parent  stock,  from  which  new  and 


132  AMERICAN   GEAPE  GROWING 

improved  varieties  will  spring,  either  by  seedlings  or  by 
cross  fertilizing  with  other  natives,  than  in  its  individual 
capacity.  I  find  it  quite  healthy,  and  among  the  hardi- 
est, as  well  as  most  productive  of  American  grapes  ;  free 
from  foxiness,  but  as  grown  here,  rather  negative  in 
character,  with  always  something  of  the  immature  flavor 
which  characterizes  the  Taylor.  In  southern  latitudes  it 
is,  doubtless,  higher  flavored,  and  valuable  for  wine  mak- 
ing, and  perhaps  also  for  the  table.  Its  great  fault  seems 
to  be,  excessive  crowding  of  the  berries  in  the  clusters, 
which,  accompanied  with  a  thin  and  tender  skin,  causes 
the  berries  to  crack  and  rot  in  the  most  wholesale  manner 
about  the  time  of  ripening.  This  evil  can  be  remedied 
by  severe  thinning  out  of  the  berries,  but  this  involves 
an  amount  of  labor  which  would  not  be  undertaken  with 
our  present  views  of  vineyard  culture. 

The  past  season  seems  to  have  been  unusually  prolific 
in  the  exhibition  of  promising  new  varieties,  and  al- 
though time  must  be  required  to  determine  their  true 
value,  I  think  it  evident  that  advance  has  been  made  in 
the  direction  of  substantial  progress.  The  Noah  grape 
seems  to  be  a  decided  improvement  upon  the  Elvira, 
having  apparently  all  the  merits  without  the  serious  faults 
of  that  variety. 

At  the  meeting  of  the  American  Pomological  Society, 
at  Rochester,  in  September  last,  several  very  handsome 
and  attractive  new  varieties  were  shown,  which  will  soon 
be  oifered  to  the  public,  and  which  appear  to  have  suffici- 
ent merits  to  render  them  worthy  of  extensive  trial; 
among  these  were  : 

NIAGARA,  a  large  white  grape,  of  good  quality,  with 
heavy  and  apparently  healthy  foliage,  and  said  to  possess 
great  productiveness  and  vigor  of  growth,  was  among  the 
most  promising. 

POCKLINGTON,  another  white  variety,  claimed  to  be  a 


AND   WINE   MAKIN-S          "  V.^IA  •  133 


Concord  seedling,  had  very  large  and  showy  clusters  of 
yellowish-white  grapes,  medium  in  quality,  but  very  at- 
tractive from  the  unusually  large  and  handsome  bunches. 

PRENTISS,  another  white  variety  closely  resembling 
the  Rebecca  both  in  appearance  and  quality,  but  showing 
wonderful  productiveness,  and  claimed  to  be  of  healthy 
and  hardy  growth,  was  quite  noticeable. 

LADY  WASHINGTON,  claimed  to  be  a  cross  between 
Concord  and  Allen's  Hybrid  (white),  was  both  handsome 
and  good  ;  white,  and  with  very  large  clusters.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive,  and  probably  one  of  the  best  of 
Mr.  Ricketts'  many  new  varieties. 

JEFFERSON,  a  handsome  new  grape,  claimed  to  be  a 
cross  of  Concord  and  lona,  resembling  the  latter  variety, 
was  very  pure  in  flavor,  and  even  finer  than  lona.  "Will 
be  found  very  valuable  if  the  vine  is  hardy  and  healthy. 

There  were  also  several  other  interesting  and  handsome 
new  grapes  in  Mr.  Ricketts'  collection,  the  value  of  which 
can  only  be  determined  by  further  trial. 

I  think,  judging  from  some  years'  experience  with  them, 
that  some  of  Mr.  Stephen  Underbill's  hybrid  grapes  are 
worthy  of  more  attention  than  they  have  received.  The 
Croton  grape  is  fully  as  healthy  and  hardy  as  Allen's 
Hybrid,  more  productive,  and  of  finer  quality.  Irving 
is  very  large  and  showy,  a  strong  grower  also,  as  well  as 
productive,  and  of  very  good  quality  ;  as  hardy  and 
healthy  as  most  of  the  hybrids,  and  for  an  amateur  grape 
very  desirable. 

Two  black  varieties,  of  the  same  originator,  named 
Black  Eagle  and  Black  Defiance,  I  believe,  will  be  found 
desirable  wherever  hybrid  varieties  can  be  successfully 
grown. 

I  received  also,  the  past  autumn,  early  in  September, 
two  samples  of  new  seedling  grapes  from  the  Delaware, 
which  I  consider  worthy  of  mention,  as  promising  to  be 


134  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

valuable  acquisitions.  The  first,  named  "Mabel/'  from 
Freeport,  Illinois,  is  like  Delaware  in  color  and  general 
appearance,  but  with  larger  clusters  and  larger  berries. 
It  has  much  of  the  Delaware  character  and  flavor  ;  the 
foliage  is  thick  and  heavy,  and  said  to  resist  mildew  as 
perfectly  as  Concord. 

The  other  is  a  white  grape,  from  Camargo,  Illinois, 
named  "  Willis,"  of  good  quality  and  handsome  appear- 
ance, about  the  size  of  Delaware. 

There  is  another  class  of  grapes  of  which  the  Hartford 
Prolific  is  the  prototype,  that  I  should  be  glad  to  see  dis- 
carded from  all  lists,  as  unworthy  of  cultivation.  Their 
only  merit,  in  my  judgment,  is  earliness  in  ripening — and 
their  wretched  quality  is  calculated  only  to  disgust  those 
who  are  tempted  by  their  early  appearance  in  the  mar- 
kets. In  the  same  category  may  be  placed  Janesville, 
Belvidere,  Whitehall,  Talman,  and  several  others,  which 
should  not  be  tolerated  where  anything  better  can  be 
grown. 

I  have  perhaps  extended  my  remarks  as  far  as  may  be 
desirable  to  you,  and  you  are  at  liberty  to  make  such  use 
of  them  as  you  please,  using  or  omitting  any  portion  you 
may  deem  useful  or  otherwise.  I  can  not,  however,  close 
without  a  word  of  congratulation  and  encouragement, 
arising  from  the  fact  that  sufficient  interest  is  taken  in 
the  subject  of  grape  growing  to  call  for  a  new  work  upon 
grapes.  I  think  there  are  other  indications  that  this 
great  and  important  industry  is  reviving,  and  will  again, 
at  no  distant  period,  occupy  a  prominent  position  among 
the  horticultural  pursuits  of  our  country.  The  evidently 
increased  interest  taken  in  the  discussions  upon  grapes 
and  their  culture,  at  the  last  meeeting  of  the  American 
Pomological  Society,  was  especially  noticeable  and  gratify- 
ing to  all  lovers  of  this  noble  fruit.  With  my  best  wishes 
for  your  success,  I  am,  very  truly,  your  friend  and  co- 
laborer,  GEO.  W.  CAMPBELL. 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  135 


CHAPTEE    XXIX. 

GRAPE   CULTURE  AND  WINE   MAKING  IN   OHIO. 

BY  M.  B.  BATEHAM,  SECRETARY,  ETC.,  PAINESVILLE,  O. 

The  history  of  grape  culture  and  wine  making  in  this 
State  may  be  said  to  have  commenced  about  thirty  years 
ago,  when  Nicholas  Longworth  and  a  few  other  citizens 
of  Cincinnati,  devoted  themselves,  with  much  energy,  to 
the  planting  of  Catawba  vineyards,  on  the  clayey  hillsides 
in  the  vicinity  of  that  city.  These  vineyards,  embracing 
several  thousand  acres,  were,  for  a  few  years,  so  success- 
ful as  to  encourage  liberal  investment  of  capital  and  skill 
in  the  business  of  wine  making,  and  in  a  little  time 
"  Longworth's  Sparkling  Catawba  "  and  ( '  Golden  Eagle," 
became  widely  known  as  popular  brands  at  fashionable 
dinners. 

But  in  a  short  time  that  fell  scourge,  the  Rot,  began  to 
make  havoc  in  their  Catawba  vineyards,  and -after  re- 
peated failures  of  the  crops  from  this  cause,  they  were 
generally  abandoned.  Then  followed  the  death  of  Mr. 
Longworth,  and  his  wine  business  was  given  up  by  his 
heirs,  though  other  parties  have  continued  it  in  the  city. 
It  was  found  that  the  Ives  Seedling  grape  resisted  the  at- 
tacks of  mildew  and  rot,  and  made  a  good  quality  of 
cheap  wine,  hence  it  was  largely  planted  in  that  vicinity; 
but  in  a  few  years  this  also  succumbed  to  the  rot  and  was 
mostly  abandoned.  In  the  meantime  several  of  the  wine 
makers  planted  Catawba  vineyards  on  the  Lake  Shore,  in 
Erie  County,  or  made  arrangements  with  vineyardists 
there  to  send  them  annual  supplies  for  their  cellars. 

Owing  to  the  general  exemption  from  mildew  and  rot 
of  the  vineyards  on  the  Lake  Shore  and  the  Islands,  much 
planting  was  done  in  that  region  ten  to  fifteen  years  ago, 


136  AMERICAN    GRAPE   GROWING 

not  less  than  5,000  acres  were  set  in  three  or  four  years. 
But  much  of  this  planting  was  unwisely  done — on  badly 
chosen  soil  and  with  little  preparation — so  that  nearly 
one-half  the  amount  never  paid  the  cost,  and  was  sooner 
or  later  abandoned.  In  many  parts  of  the  interior  of  the 
State,  smaller  vineyards  were  also  planted  in  those  years, 
mostly  of  the  Concord  variety,  the  fruit  designed  chiefly 
for  market.  In  a  few  hilly  localities  in  the  south-eastern 
quarter  of  the  State,  vineyards  of  moderate  extent  are 
cultivated  successfully  for  wine  ;  the  varieties,  Catawba, 
Norton,  and  Ives.  Within  the  past  three  or  four  years 
many  of  the  Concord  vineyards,  which  had  previously 
been  quite  successful,  have  had  their  fruit  destroyed  by 
the  rot,  so  that  the  owners  are  much  discouraged,  and 
some  have  grubbed  out  their  vines. 

With  all  these  causes  of  failure,  I  believe  there  have 
been  destroyed  not  less  than  10,000  acres  of  vineyards  in 
Ohio  during  the  past  ten  years ;  and  during  the  same 
time  there  have  been  planted,  perhaps,  7,000  acres — leav- 
ing the  aggregate  at  this  time  about  9,000  acres,  or  3,000 
less  than  it  was  eight  or  ten  years  ago.  Several  hundred 
acres  of  Catawba  vines  are  annually  planted  on  the 
Islands — enough  to  make  up  for  any  that  fail  from  age 
or  other  causes.  Some  planting  is  also  done  every  year 
in  the  more  favorable  districts  along  the  Lake  Shore  and 
in  the  interior. 

The  past  season  was  more  exempt  from  mildew  and  rot 
than  for  several  years  previous  ;  though  a  few  localities 
suffered  badly,  from  the  effects  of  rainy  and  sultry 
weather  in  July,  this  was  not  of  very  wide  extent.  The 
warm  weather  of  autumn  ripened  the  Catawba  better 
than  usual,  and  a  superior  quality  of  wine  is  the  result. 
The  price  paid  to  the  growers  on  the  Islands  by  the  wine 
makers,  was  4  cents  per  pound,  by  the  ton,  for  good 
Catawba  ;  second  class,  S1/,  cents. 

About  half  of  the  vineyards  of  our  State,  or  over  4,000 


AND   WINE   MAKING. 


137 


acres,  are  located  on  the  Islands  and  the  western  part  of 
our  Lake  Shore.  Of  these,  about  seven-eighths  are 
Catawba,  the  rest  are  Delaware,  Concord,  Norton,  etc. 
More  than  three-fourths  of  the  fruit  is  used  for  wine ; 
some  is  shipped  to  the  city  markets  for  table  use.  The 
crops  are  somewhat  variable  in  amount  and  quality,  and 
sometimes  damage  is  done  to  the  vines  by  the  winters,  or 
to  the  foliage  by  mildew,  so  that  the  fruit  fails  to  ripen 
perfectly.  Still,  as  an  average,  the  profits  are  considered 
better  than  could  be  realized  from  any  other  use  of  the 
land.  The  price  at  which  good  vineyard  locations  on  the 
Islands  can  now  be  bought  is  higher,  I  am  told,  than  for 
several  years  past,  ranging  from  $200  to  $400  per  acre. 

Our  statistics  of  the  amount  of  yield  per  acre  of  our 
Island  vineyards,  and  the  amount  of  wine  pressed  an- 
nually, are  not  very  full  or  reliable.  The  assessor's  re- 
turns show  that  the  aggregate  of  wine  for  the  State 
ranges  from  about  500,000  to  over  1,000,000  gallons. 
The  returns  as  published  for  1878  are  708,733  gallons, 
and  the  number  of  pounds  of  grapes  gathered,  10,341,715. 
The  entire  statistics  for  that  year  for  the  two  counties  of 
Ottawa  and  Erie,  which  embrace  the  Islands  and  portions 
of  the  Lake  Shore,  are  as  follows  : 


COUNTIES. 

Acres  of  Vineyards. 

Ibunds  of  Grapes. 

Gallons  of  Wine. 

Ottawa       .... 

1,900 

3,448,103 

318,707 

Erie 

1,271 

1,934  275 

151,133 

These  figures  are  somewhat  below  the  average  yield  of 
the  past  ten  years,  and  only  about  half  as  great  as  those 
of  exceptionally  good  seasons.  The  crop  of  1879  was 
'about  equal  in  amount  to  that  of  1878,  and  superior  in 
quality. 

PAINESVILLE,  0. 


138 


AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWIKG 


CHAPTER     XXX. 

GRAPE  CULTURE  AT  KELLEY'S  ISLAND,  OHIO. 

BY  ADDISON  KELLEY. 

This  Island  has  some  650  acres  in  bearing  vineyards, 
probably  nine-tenths  of  the  vines  are  Catawbas  ;  Concords 
are  next  in  quantity,  being  near  half  of  the  remaining 
tenth ;  then  Isabella,  Delaware,  Ives,  Nortons,  Hartford, 
"Wilder  (Rogers'  No.  4),  Clinton,  and  Oporto.  There  are 
some  fifty  other  varieties,  but 
only  for  amateurs  and  on  triaL 
The  land  is  prepared  for  setting 
by  under-draining,  by  means  of 
ditches  from  21/,  to  3  feet  deep, 
with  hollow  drain,  made  mostly 
with  thin,  flat  surface  stone,  set 
up  on  the  bottom,  as  in  figure  24, 
and  covered.  Another  kind,  called  the  "  Shoulder  drain," 
is  made  as  in  figure  25,  and  covered  or  filled  in  with  the 
earth  that  was  thrown  out ;  distance  apart,  32  or  40  feet, 
or  in  fourth  or  fifth  rows. 

A  few  vineyards  have  tile-drains.  Some  vineyards  have 
natural  drainage,  the  rock  (limestone)  being  cracked  into 
open  seams,  with  heavy  marl  over  it,  from  1  foot  to  3 
feet  deep  ;  this  proves  to  be  the  best  drainage. 

Roots  one  year  old  are  usually  planted.  Where  the  soil 
is  suitable,  cuttings  have  proved  as  good  as  roots.  They 
are  put  two  in  a  place.  Those  that  grow  are  quite  as  good 
as  roots.  Where  both  live,  one  is  removed.  The  most 
common  distance  for  planting  is  in  rows  8  feet  apart  and  G 
feet  in  the  row.  The  vines  are  cultivated  like  corn,  for  one, 
and  sometimes  two  years,  before  trellising.  The  second 
year  the  vines  are  cut  down  to  two  buds,  in  the  usual  way. 
For  trellising,  posts  are  set,  one  to  every  four  or  five  vines, 


25- 


AJO)   WItfE  MAKING.  139 

according  to  taste  and  size  of  posts  ;  71/,  or  8  feet  posts 
are  used,  set  21/.,  feet  in  the  ground.  The  oldest  vine- 
yards have  mostly  No.  9  wire,  but  latterly  No.  11  is  con- 
sidered sufficient.  Three  wires,  of  the  best  annealed  iron 
wire  only,  are  used,  the  lower  wire  is  2  or  21/,  feet  above 
the  ground,  the  other  two  equally  divide  the  distance  be- 
tween the  lowest  wire  and  the  top  of  the  trellis.  Good, 
clean  cultivation  is  required  afterwards.  I  usually  plow 
two  or  three  times,  and  take  care  to  cultivate  well 
during  the  season.  The  first  plowing  is  done  in  the 
spring  as  early  as  the  ground  is  fit,  after  trimming  and 
tying  up  the  vines  to  the  wires,  with  willow  twigs,  raised 
for  the  purpose.  They  are  then  hoed  with  prongecLhoes, 
and  surface  roots  cut  off  to  the  depth  of  4  to  6  inches 
from  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

The  third  year,  or  first  bearing  year,  the  vines  are  cut  to 
two  branches  and  one  spur  of  two  buds,  the  bearing 
branches  have  from  six  to  nine  buds  each,  according  to 
fancy  and  strength  or  size  of  cane.  No  summer-pruning 
is  allowed  by  any  one  now,  I  think,  except  to  break  off 
any  excess  of  suckers  at  the  bottom,  leaving  one  or  two 
only  for  next  year's  spur.  Summer-pruning  injures  the 
fruit  both  for  wine  and  for  the  palate. 

There  were  raised  here  in  1879,  between  1,350  and 
1,400  tons,  of  which  not  more  than  40  tons  were  shipped 
for  table  use.  The  balance  was  made  into  wine;  about  100 
tons  were  sold  or  sent  elsewhere  for  wine.  The  Kelley 
Wine  Company  bought  and  made  up  about  9,000  tons  ; 
average  price  paid  for  :  Oatawbas,  31/,  cents  ;  Concords, 
2  cents  ;  Delaware  and  Nortons,  51/,  cents  ;  Oporto  and 
Clinton,  3  cents  ;  Ives,  23/4  cents  ;  Isabella,  1  cent.  The 
crop  on  the  Bass  Islands — South,  Middle,  and  North 
Bass,  was  as  good  as  here.  The  acreage  being  more  than 
here,  probably  amounting  to  800  or  900  acres,  and  some 
larger,  proportion  shipped  for  table  use.  I  have  no  sta- 
tistics. 


140  AMERICAN  GRAPE  GROWING 

The  crop  was  good  on  the  Peninsula,  4  miles  south  of 
this  place,  while  it  was  poor  on  the  Lake  Shore  main- 
land, particularly  east  of  here,  in  consequence  of  what  is 
known  here  as  "  Greeley  Rot,"  so  called  from  its  making 
its  first  appearance  the  year  in  which  Horace  Greeley 
run  for  President. 

There  are  a  number  of  vineyards  here  on  the  north- 
eastern part  of  the  Island  that  suffer  badly  by  it,  and  it 
is  working  southwest  slowly  every  year.  The  berry  has 
the  appearance  of  having  a  sting,  showing  a  dark 
speck  and  turning  white  immediately  around  it  at  first, 
then  turning  brown  as  it  spreads  ;  the  berry  then  be- 
comes black  (not  distinguishable  from  one  attacked  by 
mildew),  rots,  dries  up,  and  falls  off,  or  is  easily  shaken  off. 
There  are  often  two  or  more  of  the  spots  on  one  berry. 

The  magnifying  glass,  or  even  microscope,  does  not 
disclose  any  egg  or  any  puncture  through  the  skin.  If 
the  speck  is  cut  out  or  taken  off  with  a  sharp  knife,  the 
wound  heals  over,  and  no  damage  is  sustained  by  the 
berry.  In  several  vineyards  here  the  damage  caused  by 
it  is  as  great  as  that  from  the  Phylloxera  or  mildew.  I 
see  that  Prof.  Riley  claims  that  Phylloxera  does  not  cause 
rot.  Certainly  high  authority.  It  is  true  that  mildew 
always  precedes  and  accompanies  rot,  but  we  never  had 
rot  before  we  had  Phylloxera  ;  and  we  do  not  now  have 
mildew  unless  the  insect  is  plenty  enough  to  destroy  all 
the  new  rootlets.  May  it  not  be  that  the  Phylloxera 
causes  mildew,  and  mildew  rot  ?  The  mildew  only 
makes  its  appearance  between  the  24th  and  28th  of  June 
the  first  time  any  year.  If  it  does  not  come  then,  no 
fears  need  be  entertained  of  its  striking  before  the  24th 
to  28th  of  July.  We  had  none  this  year  before  the  latter 
period,  when  there  was  a  rather  light  attack.  August 
24th  to  39th  it  was  mare  severe,  and  the  August  rot 
always  continues  with  more  or  less  severity  until  the 
fruit  is  made  up  or  consumed.  The  Phylloxera  on  the 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  141 

roots  were  fewer  than  for  five  or  six  years  past,  or  ever 
since  I  have  examined  them,  and  there  was  less  mildew 
and  rot. 

I  have  not  examined  the  roots  of  vines  having  the 
"  Greeley  Rot,"  for  Phylloxera,  but  shall  make  it  a  point 
to  do  so  this  year.  My  vineyards  not  being  much  effected 
by  this  rot,  I  have  not  looked  after  the  matter  as  much 
as  I  should  have  done. 

The  only  remedy  tried  here  for  Oidium,  or  mildew  rot, 
that  any  success  is  claimed  for,  is  Sulphur;  one  part 
sulphur  and  two  parts  fine  lime  or  plaster,  are  well  mixed 
24  hours  or  more  before  using.  The  lime,  or  piaster,  is 
for  the  purpose  of  neutralizing  the  acid  in  the  sulphur. 
This  proportion  is  used  for  the  first  application,  after- 
ward equal  parts  of  each  ;  it  is  blown  on  by  bellows,  and 
as  much  upon  the  underside  of  the  leaves  as  possible. 

I  think  any  application  of  this,  other  than  from  22d  to 
26th  of  the  months  of  June,  July,  and  August,  proves 
worse  than  useless. 

The  weather  has  little  or  nothing  to  do  with  this  rot ; 
it  clearly  is  not  climatic.  It  always  comes  here  at 
these  periods  named,  if  it  comes  at  all,  and  no  one  can 
tell  by  the  weather  if  it  will  come  then  or  not.  Hence 
the  saying  obtains  here :  "It  comes  from  pure  cussed- 
ness"  I  examined  the  roots  of  my  gooseberries  that 
mildewed.  I  found  them  all  badly  diseased,  the  fine 
roots  entirely  dead.  Is  this  always  the  case  ?  The 
kinds  of  grapes  having  the  most  Leaf-Phylloxera,  or 
Leaf-gall,  are  most  exempt  from  mildew.  The  Oporto 
and  Clinton  are  free  from  mildew  and  rot,  and  also 
free  from  Phylloxera  on  the  roots.  I  grafted  lona  and 
some  other  varieties  that  are  subject  to  mildew  rot,  on 
Oporto  roots.  They  did  well  for  about  three  years, 
then  mildewed  the  same  as  on  their  own  stocks ;  the 
roots  also  were  infested  the  same,  with  Phylloxera.  I 
grafted  alternate  vines  in  the  row  below  the  surface  of 


142  AMERICAN   GRAPE  GROWING 

the  ground.  The  alternate  Oportos  not  grafted  remained 
exempt  from  the  insects  and  mildew  rot.  The  Concords 
suffer  but  little  from  mildew  rot;  but  the  "Greeley 
rot"  does  not  spare  it,  or  any  other  kind  of  grapes. 
It  seems  to  be  "  no  respecter  of  persons/'  where  grapes 
are  the  persons. 


CHAPTER    XXXI. 

GRAPE-GROWING  AND  WINE-MAKING  ON  LAKE  KEUKA,  OR 
CROOKED  LAKE,  STEUJ3EN  CO.,  N.  T. 

BY   THE   AUTHOR. 

On  a  flying  trip  made  last  fall  to  the  famous  grape 
region  on  what  was  formerly  called  Crooked  Lake,  a 
name  which  the  residents  have  since  changed  to  Lake 
Keuka,  I  gathered  a  few  items  of  interest,  convincing 
me  that  there  is  indeed  a  great  opening  here,  and  I  will 
give  my  readers  such  notes  as  a  hasty  visit  of  hardly  two 
days  enabled  me  to  take.  I  regret  that  the  superintend- 
ents of  the  leading  wine  companies  (the  Pleasant  Valley 
and  Urban  a)  did  not  furnish  me  with  fuller  data. 

There  are  about  6,000  acres  of  grapes  on  the  shores  of 
the  lake,  but  the  chief  vineyards  are  between  Pultney 
and  Hammondsport — a  distance  of  about  9  miles,  which 
is  an  almost  uninterrupted  vineyard.  There  is  quite  a 
large  cellar  at  Pultney,  where  I  did  not  find  time  to  stop. 
A  few  miles  above  Hammondsport  are  the  cellars  of 
the  Urbana  Wine  Co.,  an  imposing  stone  structure  of 
three  stories  above  the  vaults,  and  56  feet  wide  by  100 
feet  long,  to  which  have  since  been  added  2  wings,  4 
stories  in  hight,  of  40  by  80  feet,  thus  doubling  their 
capacity.  I  suppose  they  could  ctnveniently  store  and 
manufacture  400,000  gallons  of  wine,  outside  of  the 


WIKE  MAKING.  143 

Champagne  vaults,  and  have  all  the  appliances  in  the 
shape  of  good  cellars,  casks,  fermenting  vats,  and  presses, 
to  handle  the  grapes  of  half  the  neighborhood,  besides  the 
product  of  their  own  vineyards  of  about  100  acres,  which 
produced  about  170  tons  of  grapes  last  season.  The 
grapes  I  saw  made  into  wine  there  were  very  fine  indeed, 
and  should  produce  a  superior  article.  Mr.  Bricaut, 
their  present  wine-maker,  acquired  his  experience  in 
France,  and  he  certainly  makes  fine  sparkling  wines,  as 
the  many  awards  taken  by  their  products  in  this  country 
and  abroad,  abundantly  testify.  From  statistics  fur- 
nished me  by  Mr.  Clark  Bell,  the  Vice-President  of  the 
Company,  the  sales  of  the  Company,  during  the 
last  year  amounted  to  about  $105,238,  of  which 
$78,192  were  still  wines,  $24,702  sparkling  wines, 
$2,343  in  Brandy.  The  price  paid  for  grapes  ranged 
from  Ic.  to  4c.  per  pound,  of  which  Isabellas  rank 
lowest,  then  Concord,  then  Catawba,  then  Diana,  lona, 
and  Delaware  highest.  Their  best  wines  are  used  mainly 
for  Champagne,  and  the  majority  of  other  wine  sold  is 
Sweet  Catawba,  a  wine  I  do  not  much  admire.  I  am 
convinced,  however,  that  a  very  superior  still  wine  could 
be  made  from  the  grapes  grown  there.  The  vineyards 
are  mostly  let  to  men  who  work  them  on  shares.  They 
need  good,  red-wine  grapes  to  make  Clarets  and  Ports, 
and  to  judge  from  a  sample  of  Nortons  I  tasted,  which 
had  been  made  there,  I  have  no  doubt  they  could  be  made. 
The  Pleasant  Valley  Wine  Co.  is  located  at  Eheims,  a 
few  miles  back  from  Hammondsport.  Mr.  Jules  Masson, 
an  old  acquaintance  whom  I  met  at  Cincinnati  in  1869, 
then  in  charge  of  the  Longworth  Wine  House,  is  Super- 
intendent of  the  cellars  here.  Mr.  D.  Bauder  is  Secretary 
of  the  Company.  I  paid  but  a  flying  visit  to  their  cellars, 
and  could  not  look  around  much,  but  saw  enough  to  con- 
vince me  that  the  two  Companies  are  worthy  rivals.  From 
notes  furnished  me  by  these  gentlemen  I  gathered  that 


144  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GBOWING 

in  1878  they  had  handled  about  800  tons  of  grapes,  and 
made  130,000  gallons  of  wine,  of  which  20,000  were 
manufactured  into  sparkling  wines.  They  expected  to 
handle  about  1,500  tons  of  grapes  during  1879,  and 
to  make  something  like  200,000  gallons  of  wine.  The 
prices  of  both  establishments  seem  to  be  about  the  same, 
$12  to  $14  per  case  for  sparkling,  70c.  to  90c.  per  gallon 
for  still  wines. 

.  These  represent  but  two  of  the  main  industries  of  that 
region.  It  may  be  safe  to  say  that  500,000  gallons  of 
wine  are  annually  made  there,  and  that  fully  one-half  of 
the  grapes,  if  not  two-thirds,  find  their  way  to  the  mar- 
kets of  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Boston,  and 
other  large  cities,  for  I  saw  them  everywhere,  and  in 
such  good  condition,  and  at  such  low  figures,  as  to  place 
them  within  reach  of  the  laboring  classes.  The  steamers 
which  make  round  trips  every  day,  from  Penn  Yan  to 
Hammondsport,  one  in  the  morning,  and  one  in  the  after- 
noon, and  which  land  at  every  pier  and  every  vineyard 
where  they  can  pick  up  freight  and  passengers,  transport 
an  immense  quantity  of  grapes,  at  very  low  rates,  and  at 
the  same  time  afford  a  convenient  and  pleasant  oppor- 
tunity for  tourists  and  visitors.  I  have  no  doubt  that 
this  and  the  neighboring  lakes,  with  their  beautiful 
scenery,  and  their  many  facilities  for  a  pleasant  summer 
resort,  will,  in  time,  become  as  famous  for  their  "  grape 
cures  "  as  the  Ehine  and  the  Moselle  are  in  the  old  world. 
They  are  within  easy  reach  of  all  the  crowded  cities  of 
the  East,  and  to  thousands  will  prove  a  more  pleasant, 
because  more  quiet  and  rural,  retreat  during  the  hot 
months,  than  Saratoga.  This  is  another  phase  of  Ameri- 
can grape-growing,  but  little  developed  as  yet,  and  which 
has  only  to  become  fashionable,  to  be  fully  appreciated. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  145 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 

GRAPE  GROWING  IN  SOUTHERN  TEXAS. 

BY  G.  ONDERDONK,  MISSION  VALLEY,  VICTORIA  CO.,  TEXAS. 

The  following  extracts  from  several  letters  to  the 
author,  give  Mr.  Onderdonk's  experiences  and  views  in 
his  own  language  : 

[FROM  LETTER  DATED  JULY  19,  1876.] 
Mr.  George  Husmann : 

*  *  *  The  Department  at  Washington  sometimes  gets 
things  confused  as  well  as  other  people,  as,  for  instance, 
when  it  reported  the  "  Warren  "  and  "  Herbemont  "  un- 
der different  classifications ;  yet,  I  believe  the  Depart- 
ment is  generally  correct  as  to  names.  We  are  all  sub- 
ject to  confusion  in  the  nomenclature  of  grapes.  The 
grape  at  one  time  disseminated  by  some  as  the  "  Lenoir," 
and  by  others  as  the  "  Devereux,"  is  the  one  I  now  send 
out  as  the  Black  July.  I  have  procured  it  from  the 
best  establishments  under  these  different  names,  and 
tested  their  identity  on  my  grounds.  I  afterwards  found 
that  Berckman's,  of  Augusta,  Ga.,  had  a  "  Lenoir  "  grape. 
I  ordered  it  at  once,  and  this  is  the  Lenoir  of  my  nurs- 
ery. The  Lenoir  and  Black  Spanish,  the  former  origi^ 
nating  in  South  Carolina,  the  latter  in  Natchez,  Miss., 
entirely  resemble  one  another  in  foliage  and  habit,  and  in 
fruit  differ  only  in  flavor,  and  sometimes,  and  during 
some  seasons,  I  almost  believe  them  so  nearly  identical 
as  not  to  be  worthy  of  a  distinction  (like  the  Warren  and 
Herbemont,  of  distinct  histories,  yet  finally  treated  as 
identical).  My  Lenoir,  in  the  soil  where  it  stands,  is 
sweeter  than  the  Black  Spanish,  or  rather  is  less  acid 
(for  neither  of  them  can  be  called  sweet).  They  are  both 
excellent  bearers  here,  and  neither  will  rot. 
7 


GRAPE   GROWING 

The  Davereux,  or  Black  July,  has  foliage  very  distinct 
from  the  Lenoir.  The  bunches  as  small,  scarcely  ever 
shouldered,  and  sweet,  is  also  several  days  earlier  than 
the  other  two.  It  must  be  used  immediately  when  ripe, 
or  it  will  rapidly  decay.  It  is  a  shy  bearer,  and  should 
rest  even  at  that.  My  Black  July  is  now  ripe  and  gone, 
and  are  usually  gone  a  week  earlier  than  now.  My  Black 
Spanish  are  hardly  ripe,  but  will  do  to  market  now.  I 
have  a  plenty  of  bunches  that  will  weigh  a  pound  each, 
without  resorting  to  special  care  to  secure  specimens,  and 
I  think  I  could  get  quite  a  number  of  Black  Spanish 
bunches  on  every  vine  that  would  weigh  24  ounces.  Of 
the  Devereux,  or  Black  July,  I  doubt  if  I  ever  made  three 
bunches  that  would  together  weigh  a  pound. 

I  give  these  data  carefully,  because  I  am  aware  of  the 
confusion  about  these  varieties,  and  wish  to  do  my  little 
share  towards  correcting  our  nomenclature. 

I  did  not  try  the  Elvira,  because  I  had  so  signally  failed 
with  its  parents.  In  fact  I  do  not  feel  much  encourage- 
ment to  experiment  outside  of  the  cestivalis  family  for 
this  region,  and  give  large  preference  to  the  southern 
branch  at  that.  Having  carefully  watched,  on  a  small 
scale,  on  my  own  grounds,  every  family  of  grapes,  includ- 
ing about  65  varieties,  I  have  concluded  that  we  must 
get  our  grapes  from  the  southern  branch  of  that  family. 

The  Pauline  and  Cunningham  have  suddenly  become 
unthrifty,  so  that  cuttings  were  scarce  at  the  last  prun- 
ing. I  speak  of  the  old  vines.  The  few  young  vines  are 
thrifty.  The  Cunningham  grows  so  very  compact  upon 
the  bunch  that  the  berries  break  each  other,  and  cause 
rot.  For  a  year  or  so  I  have  not  been  disposed  to  increase 
my  small  stock  of  these  two  varieties.  The  Black  Span- 
ish and  Warren  continue  to  beat  everything  else  here,  and 
are  established  beyond  dispute  to  be,  thus  far,  our  grapes. 
I  do  not  exclude  the  Lenoir,  which  acts  in  every  way  like 
the  Black  Spanish. 


AND   WINE   MAKflW^  gr-'    147 


In  my  grape  culture  I  have  "kept  two  objects  in  view  : 
1st.,  to  test  such  varieties  as  I  deem  promising,  and  2d., 
to  raise  only  enough  to  supply  local  demands  for  the 
fruit,  and  sufficient  wood  for  my  nursery.  I  had  only 
aimed  at  local  trade  until  last  year's  demands  from  France 
had  induced  me  to  plant  cuttings  to  make  plants  for  that 
market.  If  I  thought  that  the  French  demand  would 
continue  I  would  make  preparations  to  meet  it,  but  I 
think  they  will  soon  raise  their  own  plants  and  become 
independent  of  us.  There  are  small  vineyards  scattered 
about,  from  which  cuttings  could  be  obtained  for  ship- 
ment ;  but  that  is  out  of  my  line,  and  I  could  only  oper- 
ate through  the  vineyardist,  as  my  business  presses  at  the 
cutting  season. 


[FKOM  LETTER  DATED  JANUARY  15,  1877.] 

*  *  *  I  will  try  the  Elvira.  If  it  roots  deep  like 
the  CBstivalis  I  shall  expect  its  success,  unless  it  ripens  its 
leaves  too  early.  But  I  had  so  fully  made  up  my  mind 
that  our  grapes  had  all  to  come  from  the  cestivalis  family, 
that  I  had  ceased  to  make  experiments  with  anything 
else.  If  the  Elvira  is  related  to  that  family  I  should 
hope  for  something  from  it.  But  I  will  try  it  anyhow. 

Some  facts  connected  with  the  growth  of  the  Labrusca 
and  cBstivalis  varieties,  have  led  me  to  think  sometimes 
that  the  prime  reason  for  the  want  of  permanent  success 
here  with  the  Labruscas,  was  their  habit  of  rooting  so 
near  the  surface.  The  cestivalis  continue  to  grow  luxuri- 
antly through  our  long,  hot,  dry  summers  like  cu- 
cumbers in  rainy  weather.  On  the  other  hand  the  La- 
brusca varieties,  without  exception,  take  such  a  rest  in 
the  summer,  that  I  have  successfully  removed  them  in 
August,  when  they  are  quite  uniformly  leafless.  The 
September  and  October  rains  generally  start  the  La- 


148  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

bruscas  into  a  full  growth  here.  But  even  during  rainy 
summers  the  Labrtiscas  cannot  grow  all  summer.  Their 
leaves  attain  maturity  and  must  fall.  I  conclude,  after 
all,  that  while  the  habit  of  shallow  rooting  with  the  La- 
bruscas,  readily  suggest  this  as  a  reason  for  want  of 
adaptation,  that  it  is  not  the  only  reason.  I  should  say, 
in  general  terms,  that  every  portion  of  the  plant  matured 
in  a  shorter  length  of  time  than  is  required  in  the  case  of 
the  cestivalis,  that  the  Labrusca  requires  a  longer  period 
of  rest  than  the  cestivalis.  Our  climate  will  not  give 
them  this  rest,  and,  therefore,  the  plant  gives  way.  The 
Almighty  has  provided  plants  for  the  different  latitudes, 
adapted  by  their  constitution  to  their  proper  climates. 
When  these  plants  are  removed  to  a  point  where  the  cli- 
mate does  not  harmonize  with  their  constitutions,  then 
they  must  yield  to  the  violence  against  their  natures. 
Whether  the  lower  temperature  during  the  growing  sea- 
son at  the  North  prevented  development,  or  the  frost  of 
the  northern  winter  extinguishes  life,  or  whether  the 
long  continued  demands  of  a  southern  climate  enervate, 
and  finally  destroy  the  life  of  a  plant,  the  final  result  is 
the  same.  Climate  will  govern  the  limit  of  our  vege- 
table productions. 

If  we  will  apply  these  views  to  grape  culture,  it  will  be 
seen  that  Nature  has  fixed  her  bounds  in  the  constitu- 
tions of  the  different  families  of  grapes.  The  experience 
of  man  must  point  out  the  limits  fixed  by  the  Creator's 
hand,  and  written  upon  and  within  every  family  of  the 
vine. 

The  shallow  roots  of  the  Labrusca  can  be  warmed  by 
the  northern  sun,  but  they  are  too  much  heated  by  the 
sun  of  our  climate.  The  brief  seasons  of  the  North  can 
ripen  the  different  parts  of  the  Labrusca,  and  then  give 
the  plant  repose  ;  but  our  long  seasons,  first  develop  and 
then  stimulate  to  exhaustion,  the  same  family  of  grapes. 
Thus  we  fail  with  the  Labrusca.  I  think  that  the  want 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  149 

of  climatic  adaptation  of  tho  Labruscas  here,  extends  to 
every  portion  of  their  structure.  They  start  off  beauti- 
fully and  promise  well  for  a  time,  but  after  two  or  three 
annual  crops,  they  rapidly  decline,  showing  every  sign  of 
premature  old  age.  The  southern  limit  of  this  family 
could  be  learned  by  a  careful  system  of  correspondence. 
Mr.  E.  W.  Krausse,  of  Waco,  a  careful  experimenter,  has 
an  experience  with  them  similar  to  my  own,  and  agrees 
with  me  in  his  conclusions.  It  appears  also  that  the 
cestivalis  of  the  Norton  type  are  successful  at  Waco,  three 
hundred  miles  north  of  me.  Here,  I  have  not  succeeded 
with  them,  I  call  them,  for  convenience,  the  Northern 
cestivalis.  Those  of  the  Herbemont  type,  belonging  to 
the  Southern  group,  seem  to  succeed  anywhere  North 
where  the  winters  do  not  freeze  them  out.  There  are 
nourishing  vineyards  of  the  Herbemont,  from  my  nursery, 
a  hundred  miles  south  of  me.  The  Lenoir  was  planted 
there  at  the  same  time,  but  the  Herbemont  (Warren)  has 
driven  the  Lenoir  from  these  vineyards,  as  the  former  is 
there  found  every  way  superior  in  fruit,  though  only  equal 
in  vine.  Texas  is  the  true  home  of  the  Southern  cestivalis 
varieties  of  the  grape.  They  endure  both  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold,  to  which  we  are  subject,  and  no  drouth, 
however  severe,  can  affect  the  plants  unfavorably  when 
they  are  once  established.  They  must  be  allowed  a 
plenty  of  wood  in  pruning. 


[FROM  LETTER  DATED  FEBRUARY  23,  1877.] 

*  *  *  The  Clinton  and  Golden  Clinton  are  the  only 
cordifolia  varieties  that  I  have  tried  here.  They  died 
during  the  sixth  year,  having  produced  two  good  crops. 
My  own  theory  has  been,  and  yet  is,  something  lik'e  this: 
That  the  Southern  cestivalis  must  furnish  the  grapes  for 
the  extreme  South,  either  by  itself  or  by  hybridization  on 


150  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

Southern  natives.  That  the  northern  limit  of  the  South- 
ern cestivalis  is  governed  by  the  isothermal  line  beyond 
which  it  is  killed  by  the  cold  of  winter. 

That  the  Northern  cestivalis  will  flourish  still  further 
north,  because  it  endures  a  lower  temperature,  but  will 
give  poor  results  in  the  extreme  South,  yet  will  do  well  in 
the  northern  portion  of  the  Southern  cestivalis  belt. 

That  the  Labruscas  belong  still  north  of  the  Northern 
cestivalis,  but  will  thrive  in  the  northern  portion  of  the 
Northern  cestivalis  belt,  while  below  that  region  it  will 
appear  successful  for  a  time,  but  decline  after  two  or 
three  crops. 

That  the  cordifolia  will  succeed  in  both  the  Labrusca 
and  Northern  cestivalis  belt,  but  will  fail  in  the  southern 
portion  of  the  Southern  cestivalis  belt. 

That  these  families  of  grapes  will  give  first  class  success 
only  in  their  climatic  bounds,  not  because  of  any  one 
peculiar  feature  in  their  growth,  but  because  of  their 
construction  throughout  the  various  parts  of  their  being. 

And  finally,  that  these  families  of  grapes  must  (with 
allowances  to  be  made  for  different  degrees  of  humidity) 
become  the  grapes  for  the  whole  world. 

I  will  qualify  the  above  by  placing  the  rotundifolia  in 
the  southern  part  of  the  Southern  cestivalis  belt. 

I  believe  that  if  your  experience  and  my  own  were  upon 
the  same  ground,  we  should  agree  throughout.  I  am 
aware  that  this  is  rank  heresy,  or  would  be  treated  as  such 
by  the  old  school  of  horticulturist.  Very  good,  they  are 
my  convictions.  If  you  bring  this  thing  befere  the  pun- 
lie,  or  if  I  should  do  so  myself  (as  I  have  thought  I  would 
do),  it  will  encounter  a  storm.  But  men  like  Bush, 
Jaeger,  and  I  will  add,  Prof.  Krausse,  of  Waco,  Texas, 
and  other  unpretending  students  will  grant  a  friendly  re- 
ception, and  time  will  confirm  the  matter.  I  am  fight- 
ing upon  that  line  myself,  and  am  glad  to  find  another, 
and  I  may  add,  many  others,  upon  the  -same  side. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  151 

I  began  grape  culture  by  following  the  old  methods.  I 
have  learned  to  see  that  their  teachings  may  do  in  New 
York  or  New  England,  but  is  inapplicable  in  this  coun- 
try. They  see  matters  as  they  appear  in  their  climate. 
They  want  Labruscas  and  their  hybrids.  We  do  not. 


CHAPTER    XXXIII. 

THE  GRAPES  OF  SOUTHERN  TEXAS. 

BY  G.  ONDERDONK. 

MISSION  VALLEY,  TEXAS,  August  18,  18.79, 
Mr.  George  Husmann : 

DEAR  SIR. — I  write  in  reply  to  yours  of  July  25th, 
concerning  the  grapes  of  Southern  Texas. 

THE  MUSTANG  (  Vitis  candicans)  is  scattered  profusely 
in  every  variety  of  situation  and  soil  all  over  Southern 
Texas.  It  comprises  many  varieties  differing  in  form, 
color,  and  season  of  ripening.  The  fruit  is  from  large  to 
very  large ;  some  varieties  attaining  the  size  of  the 
Goethe.  The  prevailing  color  is  black.  It  is  remarkable 
for  the  great  thickness  and  excessive  acidity  of  the  skin. 
The  pulp  does  not  contain  more  than  a  fair  share  of  acid, 
but  is  quite  destitute  of  sugar  in  all  of  its  varieties.  By 
the  addition  of  two  pounds  of  sugar  to  the  gallon,  it 
makes  a  wine  of  some  reputation. 

THE  POST  OAK  GRAPE  ( V.  Lincecumii,  of  Buckley), 
does  not  grow  in  this  region. 

THE  BUSH  GRAPE  ( V.  rupestris)  is  here  confined  to 
the  mountains.  It  is  a  small,  scrubby  grower,  and  bears 
only  once  in  three  or  four  years.  The  leaves  remind  one 
of  the  rotundifolia.  It  is  not  found  in  the  valleys,  and 


152  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

will  only  succeed  in  the  most  limy  ban-en  soils,  where 
nothing  else  will  grow.  All  attempts  to  raise  it  in  the 
coast  region  have  failed,  and  yet  I  suspect  that  its  failure 
with  us  has  been  a  matter  of  soil,  and  not  of  climate. 
Having  a  small  spot  just  like  the  soil  of  the  mountains  I 
mean  to  test  the  matter.  While  it  is  true  that  this  spe- 
cies is  quite  worthless  for  cultivation  here  for  the  fruit, 
yet  as  it  its  roots  seem  to  be  proof  against  Phylloxera,  it 
may  be  found  valuable  as  a  stock  for  the  vinifera. 
Some  interesting  experiments  are  in  progress,  with  a 
view  to  this  use  of  the  rupcstris.  Four-year-old  grafts 
are  yet  highly  promising.  There  is  hope  that  by  using 
the  rupestris  as  a  stock,  we  may  yet  succeed  with  some 
of  the  European  varieties  in  spite  of  the  Phylloxera, 
wherever  we  can  command  the  required  soil.  This  ex- 
periment is  also  being  made  in  France  with  strong  hopes 
of  success. 

THE  SOUTHERN  ^ESTIVALIS,  not  native  here,  must 
furnish  the  main  supply  of  varieties  for  Southern  Texas. 
Twenty-five  years  ago  but  few  residents  of  this  region  be- 
lieved it  possible  to  succeed  with  any  variety  of  cultivated 
grapes.  Mr.  J.  M.  Voigt,  then  a  resident  here,  and  since 
of  Hermann,  Mo.,  began  the  first  systematic,  persistent 
experiments,  with  which  I  became  acquainted  in  about 
1855.  He  mostly  cultivated  Catawba,  and  extended  his 
experiments  to  about  thirty-five  varieties.  I  began  simi- 
lar experiments  in  1858.  I  experimented  with  every 
class  that  has  been  reduced  to  the  service  of  the  vineyard- 
ist.  The  result  was  that  I  found  nothing  to  give  perma- 
nent success  outside  of  the  southern  branch  of  the  V. 
mtivalis.  We  call  it  Southern  cestivalis  for  brevity, 
without  assuming  authority  to  fix  a  designation.  I  ab- 
hor a  multiplication  of  unnecessary  classifications.  But 
the  forces  of  Nature  have  driven  us  to  a  distinction  be- 
tween what  a  few  of  us  call  Northern  and  Southern 
cBstivaUs ;  and  the  very  singular  climate  of  Southern 


WINE   MAKING.  153 

Texas  forces  a  local  recognition  of  a  further  sub-division 
for  practical  local  use.  But  I  have  not  the  audacity  to 
imagine  the  propriety  of  a  general  acceptance  of  this 
sub-division  for  the  country  at  large. 

The  members  of  the  Southern  cestivalis  class,  which 
may  be  represented  by  the  Devereux,  Louisiana,  and 
Cunningham,  have  grown  off  beautifully  here,  but  have 
borne  lightly,  and,  except  the  Devereux,  have  rotted 
badly,  and  all  have  proved  short  lived.  I  think  that 
these  varieties  belong  a  very  little  further  north. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  Herbemont  and  Lenoir  are 
here  perfect  in  every  respect,  taking  a  very  decided  pre- 
cedence over  all  other  tested  varieties.  We  have  two  new 
varieties  of  what  I  shall  here,  for  convenience,  call  the 
Herbemont  Division.  First,  the  Hanvood,  which  is 
simply  an  enlarged  Herbemont.  Second,  the  Dunn 
grape,  which  is  a  little  larger  than  Herbemont,  considera- 
bly paler,  and  a  few  days  later.  I  have  been  watching 
the  original  Harwood  vine  for  ten  years,  and  am  led  to 
place  an  increased  value  upon  it.  I  regret  that  it  is  not 
very  successfully  propagated  by  cuttings.  My  attention 
has  but  recently  become  directed  toward  the  Dunn  grape. 
But  from  the  very  close  resemblance  in  foliage  and  habit 
which  both  of  these  varieties  bear  to  the  Herbemont, 
which  is  our  most  successful  grape,  I  feel  as  sure  as  one 
could  do,  short  of  a  complete  demonstration,  that  these 
varieties  will  both  prove  to  be  treasures.  Both  will  be 
thoroughly  tested  and  offered  to  the  public. 


EMORANDA  PROM  M^.  ONDEKDONK. 

CUNNINGHAM  (of  Berckmans). — Pale  amber,  gener- 
ally shouldered,  very  compact ;  was  discovered  wild  by 
Judge  Long,  near  Athens,  Ga.  Downing  describes  Cun- 
ningham as  "black." 


154  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

BLACK  JULY  (Berckmans'). — Also  known  as  Dever- 
eux,  Lincoln,  Sumpter,  Sherry,  Blue  Grape,  Thurmond, 
McLean,  Tully,  Husson,  Hart  (Lenoir  incorrectly).  It 
has  been  found  wild  in  various  places  in  Georgia  and 
Alabama. 

LENOIR  (Berckmans'). — Burgundy  in  Eastern  Texas. 
Black  Spanish  in  Western  Texas.  May  possibly  be  the 
Jacques  of  Mississippi — possibly  the  Cigar  Box,  or  Ohio 
of  Longworth,  but  I  do  not  believe  it.  I  shall  be  able  to 
settle  this  question  in  a  couple  of  years.  Berckmans  got 
this  Lenoir  from  Dr.  Decaredeno  when  the  variety  first 
came  out  from  Lenoir  County,  South  Carolina. 


CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

THE  VINEYARD   IN  TEXAS. 

BY  G.   ONDEBDONK,  ESQ.,   OF  MISSION  VALLEY  NURSERIES, 

(From  Burke' s  Almanac,  1878.) 

It  was  written  of  the  different  classes  of  grapes  by  an 
eminent  Northern  Pomologist,  a  few  years  ago,  that 
"  Practically  it  is  of  little  consequence  what  view  is 
taken  of  these  usual  forms,  *  *  as  the  cultivator  is 
interested  in  them  only  as  varieties,  and  it  is  of  no  par- 
ticular moment  to  him  whether  we  have  one  hundred, 
or  only  one  native  species. "  Too  many  cultivators  have 
too  long  acted  upon  this  idea,  or  rather  this  want  of 
ideas,  concerning  the  grape.  I  do  not  know  "  all  about 
grapes,"  but  for  the  last  twenty  years  I  have  devoted 
much  care  to  grape-culture  in  Western  Texas,  and  the 
results  reached  have  come  from  dearly  bought  experi- 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  155 

ence,  and  careful  observation  from  a  climatic  stand- 
point not  yet  occupied  by  our  older  and  more  north- 
ern horticulturists.  I  can  hardly  give  my  general  con- 
clusions in  less  spice  than  to  condense  them  from  a 
letter  written  to  Prof.  Husmann  last  year. 

My  own  theory,  as  applied  to  the  United  States,  has 
been,  and  yet  is,  something  like  this  :  That  besides  the 
rotundifolia,  the  Southern  mstivalis  family  (of  which  the 
Herbemont,  Louisiana,  and  Lenoir  are  types),  must  fur- 
nish the  grapes  for  the  extreme  South,  either  by  itself, 
or  by  hybridization  on  southern  natives.  That  the 
northern  limit  of  the  Southern  cestivalis  is  governed  by 
the  isothermal  line,  beyond  which  it  fails,  for  a  sufficient 
time,  to  receive  the  needed  heat  in  summer,  or  is  killed 
by  the  cold  of  winter.  That  the  Northern  cestivalis  (of 
which  the  Cynthiana  and  Norton  are  a  type)  will  flourish 
still  further  north,  but  will  give  poor  results  in  the  ex- 
treme South.  That  the  regions  or  zones  of  the  cestivalis 
family  overlap  each  other  in  the  northern  portions  of 
Texas  and  other  localities. 

That  the  Labrusca  family  belongs  still  north  of  the 
cestivaliSf  but  will  thrive  in  the  northern  portion  of  the 
Northern  cestivalis  belt,  while  below  that  region  it  will 
appear  successful  for  a  time,  but  decline  after  two  or 
three  good  crops. 

That  the  cordifolia  will  succeed  in  both  the  Labrusca 
and  Northern  cestivalis  belt,  but  will  fail  in  the  southern 
portion  of  the  Southern  c&stivalis  belt. 

That  the  vinifera  varieties,  although  adapted  to  our 
climate,  must  fail  everywhere  sooner  or  later,  on  account . 
of  Phylloxera,  except  in  localities  where  they  are  pro- 
tected by  special  causes. 

That  the  above  families  of  grapes  will  give  first-class 
results  only  in  their  climatic  bounds,  not  because  of  any 
one  peculiar  feature  of  the  growth,  but  because  of  their 
constitution  throughout  the  various  parts  of  their  being. 


156  AMERICAN   GKAPE   GROWING 

And  finally,  that  these  families  of  grapes  must,  with 
allowances  to  be  made  for  different  degrees  of  humidity, 
become  the  grapes  for  their  respective  zones  throughout 
the  whole  world.  In  stating  this  general  proposition,  it 
is  not  disputed  but  that  families  with  which  the  horti- 
culturists are  yet  unacquainted,  may  supply  varieties  in 
the  future,  and  that  the  viticulture  of  every  zone  may  be 
enriched  by  new  hybrid  combinations  of  material  belong- 
ing to  the  same  belt.  But  I  do  protest  against  the  system 
of  wholesale  waste  of  labor  and  dissipation  of  capital, 
which,  I  believe,  must  ever  result  from  the  indiscriminate 
planting  of  every  and  any  variety,  whether  it  belongs  to 
our  region  or  not. 

I  began  grape-culture  by  following  old  masters  of  the 
far  Northeast.  I  learned  to  see  that  while  their  teaching 
may  do  for  New  York  and  New  England,  it  does  not 
apply  to  our  region.  They  want  Labruscas,  cordifolias, 
and  their  hybrids.  We  do  not,  because  they  are  not 
adapted  here.  It  is  in  vain  that  we  may  determine  that 
because  our  fancy  leads  us  to  prefer  this  or  that  variety, 
that  we  will,  therefore,  insist  upon  its  cultivation  whether 
it  is  constitutionally  adapted  or  not.  While  peculiar  sur- 
roundings, natural  or  artificial,  may  favor  different  vari- 
eties of  different  families,  yet  common  sense  tells  us  that 
these  exceptions  do  not  disprove  a  rule,  and  experience 
teaches  the  necessity  of  following  the  demands  of  Na- 
ture. And  what  are  the  demands  of  Nature  in  determin- 
ing the  varieties  of  grapes  for  Texas  ? 

While  in  Northern  Texas  it  is  quite  likely  that  the 
whole  of  the  Labrusca  family  will  continue  to  give  only 
temporary  success,  yet  the  Northern  cestivalis,  which  may 
be  represented  by  the  Cynthiana  and  Norton,  may  prove 
successful  as  well  as  the  Southern  cestivdlis,  represented 
by  the  Herbemont,  Louisiana,  Lenoir,  etc.  If  I  under- 
stand Prof.  Krausse,  of  Waco,  that  the  Cynthiana  suc- 
ceeds well  with  him,  I  should  then  presume  in  favor  of 


AND   WIKE   MAKING.  157 

the  whole  Northern  mstivalis  family,  until  experience 
should  prove  the  contrary. 

My  own  personal  experience  is  confined  to  Southern 
Texas.  Here  the  Southern  CBstivalis  varieties  have  fur- 
nished our  success,  except  in  localities  where  prevailing 
obstacles  are  overcome  by  some  special  cause.  Our  very 
best  grapes  for  the  table  or  wine  is  the  Herbemont, 
also  known  as  the  Warren.  The  Lenoir,  known  better 
at  Houston  as  the  Burgundy,  and  at  San  Antonio  as  the 
Black  Spanish,  is  also  hardy  and  productive,  although 
not  so  good  for  the  table  as  the  Warren.  Both  are 
excellent  for  wineP  and  both  took  prizes  at  Montpelier, 
France,  where  over  six  hundred  varieties  of  wine  were 
exhibited. 

The  Warren  will  produce  in  the  fourth  year  from  plant- 
ing, 500  gallons  of  pure  juice  to  the  acre  on  common, 
unmanured  upland,  that  will  not  make  more  than  20 
bushels  of  corn  to  the  acre.  The  whole  family  prefer  dry 
soils,  and  do  not  object  to  a  large  proportion  of  lime  in 
the  soil.  The  Lenoir  comes  into  bearing  a  trifle  later 
than  the  Warren,  but  I  believe  the  yield  is  finally  satis- 
factory. About  San  Antonio  and  New  Braunfels  the 
Lenoir  is  the  prevailing  grape.  In  this  (Victoria)  and 
adjoining  counti33,  the  Warren  has  driven  the  Lenoir 
quite  out  of  cultivation.  The  Louisiana  also  promises 
well.  The  Cunningham  grows  well,  but  wants  a  dryer 
air  than  we  often  have  in  Victoria  County. 

We  have  a  new  Southern  cestivalis  grape,  that  seems  to 
combine  the  qualities  of  the  Warren,  with  the  size  of 
the  Eumelan.  It  originated  in  the  garden  of  Col.  Har- 
wood,  at  Gonzales,  and  by  him  is  called  the  "  Improved 
Warren."  It  has,  as  yet,  been  tested  in  only  a  few  in- 
stances, and  if  it  succeeds  as  it  has  begun,  then  it  is  the 
rare  treasure  we  have  been  looking  for  for  the  last  twenty- 
five  years.  Capt.  Jones  (the  pioneer  fruit-grower  at 
Gonzales)  and  myself  agreed  to  call  this  new  grape  the 


158  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

Harwood,  in  honor  of  its  originator,  and  it  is  dissemi- 
nated both  from  Ms  nursery  and  my  own  as  the  Har- 
wood. We  hope  that  the  name  will  be  accepted. 

While  the  "  lists  "  of  many  nurseries  teem  with  a  host 
of  varieties,  each  one  of  which  is  recommended  to  be  just 
what  every  customer  wants,  yet  the  truth  seems  to  be 
that  there  is  no  one  region  to  which  many  varieties  are 
perfectly  adapted.  The  cultivators  of  each  region  find 
themselves  finally  driven  to  a  very  small  number  of  vari- 
eties for  profit.  If  tli3  Cynthiann  was  blotted  out  in 
Missouri,  or  the  Isabella  and  Delaware  in  New  York,  and 
so  on,  one  or  two  varieties  were  blotted  out  from  each 
general  locality,  it  would  prove  a  staggering  blow  to 
grape-culture.  And  if  we  in  Texas  have  only  a  few  va- 
rieties suited  to  our  region,  we  yet  have  as  many  success- 
ful ones  as  many  older  communities  that  boast  of  success. 
It  is  within  the  memory  of  living  men,  that  the  famous 
grape  regions  of  the  North  were,  in  grape  culture,  far 
behind  what  Texas  is  to-day.  Already  our  southern 
Herbemont  can  scarcely  be  surpassed  in  value  by  any 
northern  variety. 

The  time  and  skill  which  have  been  expended  by  North- 
ern horticulturists  upon  northern  families  of  grapes 
have  vastly  improved  their  vineyards.  But  we  of  the 
extreme  South  have  a  similar  work  to  perform,  and 
may  well  expect  that  when  a  corresponding  amount  of 
effort  has  been  made  to  improve  the  hitherto  neglected 
Southern  c&stivalis  family  of  grapes,  then  may  we  expect 
to  excel  our  Northern  cousins  in,  the  production  of  the 
vine,  as  far  as  we  excel  them  in  the  natural  advantages 
of  our  incomparable  climate  and  the  abundance  and 
richness  of  our  natural  resources.  Perhaps  I  am  an 
enthusiast,  but  with  the  light  of  twenty-seven  years  of 
horticultural  study  and  experience  in  Western  Texas, 
with  a  fair  knowledge  of  the  North  and  the  great 
Northwest,  and  in  view  of  our  recent  progress  and 


AND   WINE   MAKING. 


present  position  in  horticulture,  and  considering  also 
our  improving  communications  with  the  outside  world, 
it  seems  to  me  that  the  day  is  near  when  Texas  shall  be 
regarded  truly  by  the  nation  and  the  world,  as  indeed 
the  Italy  of  America — the  Empire  State  of  the  Union — 
the  great  garden  of  the  Continent. 


OHAPTEE    XXXV. 

GRAPE  GROWING  IN  WESTERN  TEXAS. 

BY  RUDOLPH  EIKEL,   NEW  BRAUNFELS. 

My  first  experiments  in  grape  culture  in  this  country 
were  made  more  than  thirty  years  ago,  with  European  va- 
rieties ( Vitis  vinifera).  The  vines  grew  very  well  for 
several  years,  but  seldom  produced  fruit.  One  of  my 
neighbors  once  grew  a  very  fair  crop  of  Riessling,  and 
the  wine  made  from  them  was  delicious.  But  all  these 
experiments  failed  eventually,  the  vines  lived  and  grew 
for  several  years,  but  died  out  finally. 

I  then  planted  several  acres  with  Black  Spanish,  which 
had  been  successfully  tested  here,  and  could  be  grown 
with  good  results.  I  also  received  about  thirty  varieties  of 
American  grapes  from  St.  Louis  ;  among  them  I  found 
three  which  flourish  well  here,  and  which  can  be  grown 
with  certainty,  viz.  :  the  Herbemont,  Rnlander,  and 
Louisiana.  The  Herbemont  is  equal  to  the  Black  Span- 
ish in  growth  and  productiveness. 

The  Black  Spanish  is  equally  successful  in  black  "gum- 
bo "  soil  or  sand,  on  the  hills  as  well  as  in  valleys,  but  the 
hill-sides  are  preferable,  as  it  can  not  stand  wet  weather, 
and  the  fruit  rots  when  exposed  to  it.  The  bunches  are 
long  and  compact,  berry  small,  with  thin  skin,  black, 


160  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

with  brisk  sub-acid  juice,  which  makes  a  fine  wine  of 
dark-red,  almost  bluck  color.  The  wine  is  also  known 
here  as  El  Paso,  and  it  is  generally  believed  that  it  was 
introduced  from  Mexico,  which  I  do  not  believe,  how- 
ever, as  I  cannot  find  that  it  is  grown  at  El  Paso,  or  in 
Mexico.  It  was  first  planted  here  by  a  Mr.  Merriweather, 
about  25  years  ago,  who  undoubtedly  brought  it  from  his 
native  State,  Mississippi. 

Among  the  wild  varieties  here  is  the  Vitis  rupestris. 
It  grows  in  stony  limestone  soil,  also  in  the  gravelly  soils 
of  our  steep  hillsides.  It  grows  vigorously,  but  does  not 
make  long  canes.  The  fruit  is  medium,  very  sweet,  and 
ripens  in  August.  I  have  great  hopes  of  this  grape,  and 
believe  that  it  has  a  future.  I  planted  it  about  3  years 
ago,  especially  as  a  stock  for  other  varieties,  and  have 
had  great  success  so  far.  I  have  grafted  several  of  the 
best  vimferas  on  it,  among  others,  three  varieties  of  Mal- 
aga, Riessling,  Blue  and  White  Tokay,  Chasselas  de 
Fontainebleau,  and  Gutedel,  and  they  have  all  grown 
satisfactorily.  Some  of  them  have  had  some  very  choice 
fruit  this  season,  although  very  young  yet.  It  is,  how- 
ever, a  new  experiment,  and  time  alone  can  show  whether 
it  will  be  ultimately  successful. 

We  have  also  three  varieties  of  Mustang  grape,  blue, 
white,  and  red ;  the  two  last  are  seldom  met  with  ;  the 
blue  is  very  abundant,  especially  on  the  banks  of  our 
rivers ;  it  bears  abundantly,  the  berries  are  large,  rather 
acid,  and  make  a  tolerably  fair  red  wine,  which  is  pro- 
duced in  considerable  quantity.  It  ripens  in  July. 

The  so-called  Winter  Grape  ( Vitis  cordifolia)  grows  in 
great  abundance  here,  on  stony  hillsides,  and  also  in  our 
river  bottoms,  bears  pretty  well ;  berry  small,  nearly 
black,  with  thin  skin.  It  ripens  in  September,  and 
makes  a  very  good,  fiery  wine  of  dark-red  color,  much  bet- 
ter than  that  from  the  Mustang.  There  is  a  good  deal 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  1G1 

of  wine  made  from  this  also,  and  the  wine  from  the  hill- 
sides is  much  better  than  that  from  the  bottoms. 

Grape  growing  is  still  in  its  infancy  here,  but  has  a 
future  in  this  State  ;  soil  and  climate  are  favorable  to 
grape-culture,  and  will  surely  be  taken  advantage  of 
in  time.  The  cultivation  of  the  Black  Spanish  has 
been  followed  so  successfully,  that  it  attracts  more  and 
more  attention  every  year.  It  will  take  several  years 
yet,  before  other  varieties  are  found  which  can  be  grown 
equally  well ;  but  this  is  only  a  question  of  time,  and, 
as  remarked  before,  we  have  several  varieties  already, 
which  could  be  cultivated  with  profit,  but  I  believe  the 
Black  Spanish  will  remain  our  leading  variety. 


[NOTE.] — I  have  cultivated  the  Black  Spanish  here 
in  Missouri,  and  made  an  excellent  wine  from  it  sev- 
eral times.  It  is  the  same  grape  that  has  been  dis- 
tributed by  the  Department  of  Agriculture  as  Dever- 
eux,  and  it  makes  a  splendid  red  wine  indeed,  but  is 
too  far  north,  and  too  much  subject  to  mildew  here  to 
be  successful.  It  seems  to  me  that  where  this  and  the 
Herbemont  succeed  so  well  as  they  seem  to  do  in  Texas, 
it  will  be  difficult  to  find  grapes  that  will  surpass  them 
in  the  quantity  and  excellence  of  their  wines.  GL  H. 


162  AMERICA^   GRAPE   GROWING 


CHAPTER    XXXVI. 

THE  CULTURE  OF  THE  GRAPE  IN  CALIFORNIA. 

BY  GUSTAF   EISEN. 

EISEN  VINEYARD,  ) 

FRESNO,  FRESNO  Co.,  CALIFORNIA,  >• 
December  1st,  1879.      ) 
George  Husmann,  Esq. : 

DEAR  SIR. — Your  kind  letter  just  received.  If  you 
had  written  to  me  earlier  I  would  have  taken  pleasure  in 
furnishing  you  with  some  notes  regarding  grape  culture 
and  wine  making  in  Fresno.  At  this  late  hour  I  must 
restrict  myself  to  the  most 'preliminary  statement,  hoping 
it  will  not  come  too  late  if  you  should  deem  it  of  suffici- 
ent interest  to  be  used  in  your  forthcoming  work  on 
Grape  Culture. 

California  takes,  already,  a  prominent  place  among 
grape-growing  countries,  and  furnishes  within  its  limited 
area  so  many  different  climates  and  localities,  that  nearly 
every  kind  or  variety  of  grapes  will  flourish  here.  For 
example,  in  the  hills  of  Sonoma  we  meet  with  the  most 
perfect  Riessling,  producing  wines  of  a  light,  delicate  cast, 
and  200  miles  further  south  in  Fresno  Co.,  the  summer 
is  both  warm  and  long  enough  to  produce  such  wines  as 
Port  and  Sherry,  which,  according  to  such  experts  as 
Rev.  I.  Bleasdale,  in  Melbourne,  equal  some  of  the  very 
finest  Portuguese  wines.  Only  six  or  seven  years  ago, 
Fresno  Co.  was  generally  considered  as  a  most  barren 
waste,  a  desert  in  fact,  where  the  dry,  and  during  the 
summer,  cracked  soil,  was  thought  to  indicate  the  utmost 
poverty.  Our  plain  extends  100  miles,  at  least,  in  every 
direction  ;  on  the  north  side  it  is  bordered  by  the  large 
San  Joaquin  River,  and  on  the  east  and  on  the  south  by 
an  equally  large  stream,  King's  River.  The  fact  that 


AND    WINE   MAKING.  163 

water  for  irrigation  was  to  be  found  so  near  at  hand, 
caused  several  to  suspect  that  the  land  was  not  altogether 
so  worthless  as  generally  believed.  The  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad  was  drawn  through  the  county,  the  water  was 
taken  out  from  the  rivers  and  made  to  flow  through  the 
plains,  and  to-day,  only  six  years  after  settlement,  we 
pride  ourselves  on  having  the  finest  vineyards  in  the 
State,  and  the  brightest  prospects  for  the  future. 

Grapes,  as  well  as  everything  else,  have  to  be  grown 
Avith  irrigation.  The  land  must  be  leveled,  and  so  pre- 
pared that  it  can  be  flooded  whenever  needed.  The  soil 
is  very  variable,  but  consists  principally  of  three  varie- 
ties. First,  a  red  clay  soil ;  this  is  the  best  for  grapes. 
Second,  a  white,  ashy-alluvial  soil,  evidently  made  up  most- 
ly of  pumice  stone,  the  original  beds  of  which  can  yet  be 
seen  at  the  foot-hills  ;  this  soil  is  much  poorer  both  for 
grapes  and  other  plants.  Third,  a  sandy,  yellow  soil, 
poor  in  organic  matters,  and  always  occurring  on  elevated 
places  ;  this  soil  is  worthless  for  grapes. 

My  brother's  vineyard  consists,  principally,  of  the  first 
named  soil.  The  first  year  the  land  had  to  be  flooded 
six  or  seven  times  during  the  summer,  to  make  the  cut- 
tings grow,  but  now  the  whole  country  seems  to  be  filled 
up  with  water,  and  one  irrigation  during  the  winter  is 
enough.  Cuttings  planted  directly  in  the  vineyard  last 
year,  needed  only  two  irrigations  during  the  summer, 
and  will  after  this  need  only  one  every  winter.  The  first 
year  we  found  watei*at  a  depth  of  65  feet.  Last  summer 
we  found  it  at  a  distance  of  6  feet  below  the  surface.  We 
have  found  that  the  best  way  of  starting  a  vineyard  is  to 
plant  cuttings  directly  in  the  ground  where  they  are  to 
remain.  Generally  we  plant  the  cuttings,  say  2  feet  deep, 
but  for  a  trial,  I  planted  some  5  feet  deep,  and  the  latter 
at  one  year  old  were  several  times  larger  than  the  for- 
mer, and  bore  quite  a  crop  the  first  summer.  Our  soil  is 
deep  and  loose,  and  free  from  stones.  This  enables  us 


16-4          AMERICAN  GRAPE  GROWING 

to  plant  all  the  grapes  with  a  crowbar,  taking  care  to  fill 
the  holes  well.  Of  course  we  plant  all  the  cuttings 
straight  up  and  down.  Two  men  can,  in  this  way,  com- 
fortably plant  1,200  cuttings  a  day,  and  sometimes  more. 
We  plant  the  cuttings  8  by  8  feet  apart,  leaving  a  road  at 
every  twenty  rows  of  vines. 

I  have  found  that  the  best  way  is,  to  have  the  grapes 
planted  in  checks  or  squares,  of  say  31/,  acres,  having  a 
good  solid  bank  of  earth  all  round  the  same.  Near  to, 
and  on  these  banks,  no  grapes  should  be  planted,  because 
they  must  be  free  to  receive  the  prunings  every  winter, 
and  which  prunings  must  be  burned  on  these  banks  every 
spring,  so  as  to  kill  all  the  weeds  and  insects  injurious  to 
the  grapes.  In  this  way  a  good  deal  of  hosing  is  saved. 
I  plow  4  inches  deep  and  cultivate  crossways,  and  keep 
cultivating  the  whole  summer.  Some  parts  of  the  vine- 
yard I  cultivated  as  much  as  seventeen  times  last  summer. 

In  December,  or  as  soon  as  the  vintage  is  over,  I  begin 
to  prune  the  vines.  I  cut  off  all  the  superfluous  wood, 
taking  care  not  to  touch  those  canes  which  are  to  bear 
the  next  year's  crop.  Those  I  leave  altogether  until  the 
middle  of  April,  when  I  trim  them  back  to  two  or  three 
eyes  as  required.  The  reason  for  this  is,  that  we  nearly 
always  have  heavy  frosts  between  the  6th  and  12th  of 
April,  and  if  then  the  fruit  buds  have  started  they  are 
sure  to  be  lost.  By  leaving  long  canes,  however,  I 
manage  to  keep  them  dormant  until  after  tjie  froaty  sea- 
son. Between  February  and  April^we  have  no  frost. 
The  trunk  on  our  vines  is  generally  kept  to  2  feet,  and 
many  of  the  superior  grapes  rest  on  the  ground  and  ma- 
ture there.  We  use  neither  stakes  nor  trellis. 

The  grapes  ripen  generally  in  the  middle  of  August, 
and  the  vintage  can  then  begin.  Some  varieties,  how- 
ever, have  been  known  to  be  ripe  in  favorable  years  as 
early  as  the  4th  of  July.  The  percentage  of  sugar  is  gen- 
erally very  large,  average  14°  to  16°,  but  sometimes  as 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  165 

high  as  16°  on  Beaume's  saccharometer,  when  at  the  same 
time  pure  water  shows  2°  on  the  same  scale. 

The  Eisen  Vineyard  comprises  at  present  160  acres,  and 
every  year  about  30  ucres  are  added,  the  bulk  of  the 
grapes  being  Zimmdel,  Malvoisie,  and  Fahirzozos,  the 
former  two  producing  Claret  and  Port,  the  latter  White 
Wine.  The  Zinfindel  is  here  considered  the  best  grape ; 
its  color  is  excellent,  and  its  flavor  and  acid  splendid. 
The  vines  average  25  Ibs.  each  of  grapes,  but  as  much  as 
50  Ibs.  have  often  been  raised  on  certain  varieties,  such  as 
Chasselas,  Rose  of  Peru,  and  others.  A  peculiar  trait  of 
some  grapes  is  that  they  do  not  color.  The  Rose  of  Peru, 
elsewhere  considered  one  of  the  finest  black  grapes,  loses 
its  color  here  entirely,  while  the  Zinfindel  always  retains 
its  dark  color.  In  Stockton,  150  miles  from  here,  the 
contrary  takes  place.  There  the  Eose  of  Peru  is  always 
of  a  dark,  black  color,  while  the  Zinfindel  turns  nearly 
white. 

Besides  the  above  varieties,  we  have  on  the  place,  in 
different  quantities,  nearly  100  varieties,  mostly  foreign, 
but  it  is  also  our  intention  to  experiment  with  Ameri- 
can varieties,  especially  those  of  the  cestivalis  and  cor- 
difolia  classes.  Of  the  former  we  have  a  few  hundred 
of  Norton's  Virginia ;  they  have  grown  enormously, 
but  will  not  fruit  before  next  year. 

The  must  we  ferment  in  tanks  containing  2,000  or 
2,500  gallons,  and  the  wine  is  kept  in  casks  of  the 
same.  size.  The  brandy  distilled  from  mash  and  wine 
is  of  a  very  high  quality,  according  to  Rev.  Dr.  Bleas- 
dale  and  other  experts,  is  entirely  free  from  fusel  oil, 
and  of  a  very  fine  natural  bouquet. 


JG6  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 


CHAPTER    XXXVII. 

VITICULTURE  IN  SONOMA  VALLEY,  CALIFORNIA. 

BY  JULIUS  DRESEL. 

When  the  first  American  emigrants  came  to  California, 
they  found  vines  already  planted  in  many  places,  especi- 
ally around  the  religious  colonies,  or  missions,  established 
by  the  Jesuit  Fathers.  Prom  this  fact  was  derived  the 
name,  Mission  grape,  for  that  vigorous,  but  rather  coarse, 
originally  Spanish,  red  grape,  which  soon  spread  over  the 
whole  State,  and  has  ever  since  provided  the  market  with 
the  California  Hock,  Claret,  Port,  and  Angelica  wines. 
Soon,  however,  the  best  European  varieties  from  Hungary, 
Germany,  and  France,  were  introduced,  they  grew  equally 
well  nearly  everywhere,  and  were  designated  as  "For- 
eigns."  Some  of  these  foreign  varieties  are  mainly  raised 
for  table  use,  as  Flaming  Tokay,  Black  Hamburg,  Muscat 
of  Alexandria,  and  many  others,  or  to  be  turned  into 
raisins  ;  but  our  best  white  wines  are  now  principally 
made  from  the  Riessling,  Gutedel  (Chasselas),  Muscatel, 
Burger,  and  the  red,  by  preference,  from  the  Zinfindel. 

As'labor  was  too  high  to  allow  of  the  use  of  the  hoe, 
our  vineyards  had  to  be  cultivated  by  the  plow,  and  con- 
sequently the  vines  were  planted  8  feet,  sometimes  6  feet, 
and  lately  7  feet  apart  each  way,  allowing  the  single  plow 
as  well  as  a  two-horse  team  to  pass  both  ways.  The 
ground  is  laid  out  with  the  chain,  every  7  feet  being 
marked  by  a  small,  white  stick,  and  the  cuttings,  or 
better  rootlings,  are  planted ;  these  are  20  inches  long 
and  placed  slantingly,  in  holes  dug  by  the  spade,  about  2 
feet  deep.  The  stick  is,  two  years  later,  replaced  by  a  * 
strong  stake  3l/9  to  4  feet  long,  to  which  to  tie  the  vine 
until  the  stem,  commonly  18  inches  to  2  feet  high,  is  big 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  167 

enough  (after  about  six  years)  to  support  its  fruit  and 
umbrella-like  foliage,  by  itself. 

Pruning  is  done  during  winter,  but  in  the  lower  places 
as  late  as  possible,  to  retard  the  starting  of  the  vines,  as 
there  is  danger  of  the  morning  frosts,  which  sometimes 
set  in  even  as  late  as  the  loth  of  May.  We  allow  the 
grown  vines  from  five  to  nine  spurs  of  two  eyes  each,  ac- 
cording to  age  and  size,  excepting  the  Riessling,  which 
has  been  found  to  bear  more  if  left  with  long  spurs  of 
four  eyes  and  some  short  spurs  besides.  During  spring 
the  plowing,  harrowing,  and  weeding  with  the  cultivator, 
are  done.  After  the  beginning  of  May  no  more  work  is 
needed,  as  the  constant  sunshine  will  not  permit  any 
weeds  to  grow  ;  only  about  blossoming  time,  during  the 
first  weeks  of  June,  Flowers  of  Sulphur  is  applied  with 
bellows,  as  a  preventive  of  or  cure  for  mildew,  which  pre- 
vails in  certain  localities.  Towards  the  end  of  September 
the  grapes  are  ready  for  picking,  and  the  harvest  con- 
tinues through  October,  and  may  be  finished  as  well  in 
November,  the  sun  shining  all  the  while.  Occasionally 
indeed,  some  rain  falls  in  October,  but  very  seldom  any 
damage  is  done. 

Entire  failures  in  the  crop,  as  well  as  great  difference 
in  the  quality  of  the  fruit,  are  unknown  here  ;  but 
though  there  have  been  50  pounds  of  grapes  seen  on  one 
vine,  and  whole  vineyards  of  the  Mission  grape  averaging 
36  pounds,  it  would  not  be  a  safe  calculation  to  put  the 
average  yield  of  one  vine  at  more  than  about  half  a  gal- 
lon. The  devastations  of  the  Phylloxera,  which  will 
hereafter  have  to  be  taken  into  account,  can  be  effectively 
met  by  grafting  on  Phylloxera  proof  American  stock  of 
Frost  grape,  or  riparia  species  ;  for  instance,  on  Taylor 
and  Elvira.  The  experiments  in  this  direction,  that  have 
been  tried  in  France,  have  also  been  successful  here  so  far. 

Regarding  the  quality  of  the  wines  of  California,  they 
have  been  rated  as  too  rich  in  alcohol,  and  rather  deficient 


168  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

in  acid.  They  carry  indeed,  from  10  to  13  per  cent  of 
alcohol,  but  then  there  are,  happily,  those  years  when 
the  grape,  in  its  super-abundance  of  juice,  develops  less 
saccharine  matter  ;  and  besides  we  have,  luckily,  varieties 
which,  even  up  to  maturity,  retain  an  agreeable  acidity, 
and  are  invaluable  not  only  in  themselves,  as  Zinfindel, 
but  also  for  cutting  purposes,  as  Burger,  to  impart  more 
acidity  to  the  Mission,  or  its  superiors,  the  Gutedel,  Mus- 
catel, Eiessling,  and  others. 

It  is  now  over  twenty  years  that  the  bulk  of  our  vine- 
yards have  been  laid  out,  and  ever  since  we  had  to  con- 
tend with  fearful  odds  to  fairly  establish  this  interesting 
branch  of  industry.  A  high  rate  of  interest,  high  wages 
for  white  labor — the  Chinaman  is  one  dollar  a  day — the 
unpopularity  of  the  article  and  its  ruinously  low  prices, 
all  combined  to  -make  our  progress  a  really  thorny  one. 
Notwithstanding  this  we  may  look  back  with  satisfaction 
upon  our  struggle,  for  did  we  not  come  out  victoriously 
at  last  ?  The  market  for  our  wines  is  finally  made,  they 
have  spread,  they  are  appreciated,  and  in  good  demand 
all  over  the  Union  ;  and  considering  their  intrinsic  value, 
and  their  scarcity,  in  comparison  with  the  population  of 
this  country,  I  think  we  are  justified  in  expecting  now 
better  times  for  our  viticulture.  Thereupon  we  act,  the 
old  pioneer  is  undismayed,  new  vineyards  continue  to  be 
planted,  and  even  before  they  have  grown  up,  Americans 
will  have  improved  so  much  in  the  knowledge  of  wines, 
that  the  quantity  of  all  the  precious  wines  California  can 
raise  will  be  utterly  insufficient  for  the  future  consump- 
tion of  our  nation.  Yes,  this  peculiar,  temperance-fos- 
tering industry  will  yet  grow  to  be  a  blessing  for  the 
people  and — a  splendid  business  after  all. 


WItfE  MAKING,  169 


CHAPTEE    XXXVIII. 

VITICULTURE  IN  NAPA  COUNTY,  CALIFORNIA. 

BY  H.   W.    CBABB,   OF  OAKVtLLB. 

The  cultivation  of  the  yine  in  this  State  was  com- 
menced bj  the  Mission  Fathers  three-quarters  of  a  cen- 
tury ago,  with  a  single  variety.  The  history  of  its  origin 
is  not  known,  further  than  that  it  is  identical  with  the  Pisca 
vine  I  imported  from  Chili — one  of  the  oldest  varieties  in 
cultivation  there,  and  is  the  brandy  grape  of  that  coun- 
try, as  the  Mission  grape  has  become  of  this.  It  is  a 
vigorous  grower  and  a  good  bearer,  containing  a  high  per 
cent  of  sugar,  and  a  small  degree  of  acid,  and  is  well 
adapted  for  Sherry,  Madeira,  and  Angelica  wines,  and  for 
Brandy. 

The  Riessling,  White  Pineau,  and  Chasselas  stand  at 
the  head  of  the  list  for  dry,  white  wines,  on  account  of 
their  lightness,  fineness,  and  delicacy  of  flavor.  Black 
Burgundy,  Zmfindel,  and  Oharboneau  are  our  best  varie- 
ties for  Claret.  The  first  makes  a  dark,  full-bodied,  and 
richly-flavored  wine.  The  second  has  a  fine  raspberry 
flavor,  but  rather  an  excess  of  acid,  and  is  a  little  light, 
both  in  body  and  color.  The  last  one,  like  the  Tinto, 
has  but  one  characteristic  color.  Black  Malvoisie  is  our 
best  Port  wine  grape.  The  large  White  Muscatel  makes 
the  finest  raisins,  and  the  White  Malaga  the  next  best ; 
while  the  raisins  of  the  Seedless  Sultana  are  the  ne  plus 
ultra  for  culinary  purposes. 

In  planting  and  grafting,  only  the  cuttings  of  bearing 
canes  are  used,  and  are  worth  from  $2  to  $5  per  thousand. 
In  planting  I  plow  the  ground  twice,  sub-soiling  it  the 
las*  time,  then  harrow  well  and  roll  it.  Make  a  chain  o^ 


170  AMEllICAK   GRAPE   GROWING 

No.  12  or  14  steel  wire  1G5  feet  long,  and  put  on  it  a  drop 
of  solder  every  61/.,  feet,  beginning  fifteen  inches  from 
one  end,  which  serves  to  make  a  loop  for  an  iron  pin  18 
inches  long,  to  stick  in  the  ground  to  hold  the  chain. 
Square  the  ground,  chain  along  one  side,  setting  a  small 
peg  or  stake  at  each  drop  on  the  chain,  then  stretch  the 
chain  at  right  angles  across  the  end,  and  chain  back  from 
the  other  end  of  the  chain,  setting  a  peg  at  each  drop  as 
before,  which  marks  out  one  block.  Now  stretch  the 
chain  across  the  block,  and  plant  24  rows,  leaving  tho 
rows  of  pegs  for  avenues.  Make  a  dibble  out  of  a  piece 
of  l*/4  inch  gas  pipe,  by  welding  and  sharpening  one  end 
and  putting  a  pin  near  the  other  for  the  hands  and  one 
for  the  foot.  Make  a  hole  with  this  and  insert  the  cutting 
and  tighten  it  by  shoving  the  dibble  down  by  one  side  and 
pressing  the  ground  against  it.  I  use  cuttings  16  inches 
long,  leaving  two  buds  above  the  surface.  If  rooted 
vines  are  used,  cut  the  roots  back  close  to  the  stock.  We 
set  about  500  per  day  to  the  man,  and  1,000  to  the  acre. 
From  four  to  eight  men  work  on  a  chain,  and  we  can 
work  from  two  to  four  chains  or  gangs  on  a  block.  This 
plan  is  very  simple,  speedy,  and  accurate,  and  any  kind 
of  help  can  do  the  work  correctly ;  it  is  equally  well 
adapted  to  planting  small  fruits  and  trees  after  the  holes 
are  dug.  We  usually  plant  the  last  of  March  and  first 
of  April  ;  the  loss  is  from  5  to  10  per  cent. 

Among  the  various  methods  of  grafting,  I  have  had  the 
best  success  by  sawing  off  the  vine  from  4  to  6  inches 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  making  a  clean  cut  with 
a  razor  a  little  diagonally,  and  inserting  one  or  two  scions, 
covering  the  cleft  or  cut  with  a  piece  of  cloth,  and  filling 
up  with  fine  earth.  The  graft  must  be  staked  and  kept 
well  tied  up  the  first  season,  and  a  fair  crop  of  grapes 
may  be  expected  the  next.  Grafting  should  be  done  here 
in  February  and  March.  Two  men  can  graft  about  100 
vines  per  day, 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  171 

I  prune  with  low  heads  and  short  spurs  of  two  fruit 
buds  each.  Any  variety  that  will  not  )deld  from  four  to 
six  tons  per  acre  is  pruned  in  this  manner:  I  leave  from 
two  to  four  canes  of  2-feet  each,  and  about  as  many  short 
spurs  of  two  buds  each,  for  long  canes  the  next  year, 
when  the  long  ones  are  to  be  entirely  removed.  The 
Riessling,  Muscatel,  and  some  others,  will  yield  twice 
as  much  by  this  method  of  pruning,  as  the  other.  Oc- 
casionally there  are  instances  reported  of  a  single  variety, 
or  a  small  vineyard,  yielding  10,  12,  14,  and  even  20  tons 
on  irrigated  land,  but  such  crops  are  a  positive  injury  to 
both  fruit  and  vine.  My  vineyard  of  120  acres  yielded 
in  1878,  51/,  tons  per  acre,  on  30  acres  of  which  the  vines 
were  only  three  years  old,  but  this  season,  on  account  of 
cold  rains,  alternated  by  extreme  heat,  while  the  vines 
were  in  bloom,  the  same  vineyard  only  had  an  average  of 
4  tons.  The  crop  throughout  the  State  is  about  one- 
fourth  short. 

In  1876  the  business  dragged  heavily,  nearly  bankrupt- 
ing numbers.  Wines  were  in  large  stock  and  had  to  be 
sold  to  distillers  and  vinegar  factories,  at  10  to  15  cents 
per  gallon.  Savings  banks  refused  to  make  loans  on 
vineyard  property,  considering  that  vines  added  no  value 
to  the  land  whatever.  Even  many  small  vineyards  were 
dug  out.  Mission  grapes  sold  from  $8  to  $10  per  ton.  I 
could  only  get  an  offer  of  $13  per  ton  for  a  lot  of  300 
tons  of  grapes  of  choice  foreign  varieties,  delivered  at  the 
cellar  and  payable  in  three,  six,  and  nine  months.  There 
was  no  market  for  our  wines.  They  were  in  bad  repute, 
due  mainly  to  adulterating  processes  which  were  carried 
on  to  a  very  great  extent  in  the  interest  of  importers,  and 
for  the  purpose  of  crushing  the  wine  and  brandy  manu- 
facture here.  But  since  that  time  the  business  has 
steadily  increased.  The  report  of  the  Surveyor  General 
of  the  State  for  the  year  1876  gave  35,000  acres  of  vine- 
yards ;  the  next  year  41,000  ;  the  next  77,000  ;  and  this 


172  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

year  may  be  estimated  at  from  85,000  to  90,000  acres, 
making  an  average  increase  of  about  35  per  cent  for  the 
last  four  years.  In  1876  we  exported  by  sea  and  rail 
1,115,000  gallons  wine,  and  59,000  gallons  brandy.  In 
1878  the  exports  were,  of  wine,  1,812,000  gallons,  and  of 
brandy,  129,000  gallons  ;  and  this  year  the  estimates  are 
2,224,000  gallons  of  wine,  and  160,000  gallons  of  brandy. 
The  French  wine  imports  have  decreased  from  7,000,000 
gallons  in  1872,  to  2,486,000  in  1877.  About  an  average 
of  30  per  cent  per  year.  This  increase  and  reversion  of 
trade  may  be  attributed  to  our  protective  tariff,  the  rav- 
ages of  the  Phylloxera  in  Europe,  and  to  the  genuineness 
and  acknowledged  merit  of  our  wines.  I  commenced 
making  wine  about  the  20th  of  September,  and  did  the 
crushing,  stemming,  and  pumping  by  steam  power.  The 
crusher  is  an  improvement  on  a  French  pattern,  and  is 
capable  of  crushing  and  stemming  over  100  tons  per  day, 
doing  the  work  in  the  most  perfect  manner.  My  pro- 
duct for  the  season  is  about  225,000  gallons,  and  that  of 
the  County,  about  1,700,000  gallons.  The  last  report  of 
the  Surveyor  General  gives  the  product  of  the  State  as 
7,790,000  gallons,  or  about  50  per  cent  of  the  entire  pro- 
duction of  the  United  States. 

The  crop  of  raisins  cured  annually  is  valued  at  from 
$60,000  to  $80,000.  This  year's  yield  is  probably  600 
tons,  or  60,000  boxes  of  20  pounds  each,  worth  at  whole- 
sale from  $1.50  to  $2  per  box.  This  branch  of  the  grape 
interest  is  increasing  rapidly.  The  present  active  demand 
and  advance  in  price,  with  a  partial  failure  of  the  crop  in 
Spain,  will  give  a  lively  stimulus  to  the  business. 

There  are  now  about  $30,000,000  of  capital  invested 
here  in  the  grape  and  wine  interest,  and  it  gives  employ- 
ment to  more  than  12,000  persons. 

Many  new  vineyards,  and  large  additions  to  old  ones, 
will  be  planted  this  year.  In  fact,  I  believe  there  will  be 
as  many  planted  this  season  as  there  were  in  the  last 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  173 

three  years.  Grapes  have  steadily  advanced  in  price 
since  1876,  at  the  rate  of  $2  per  ton  each  year,  bringing 
the  last  season  from  $15  to  $25  per  ton,  and  large  cellars 
of  wine  have  been  sold  at  25  cents  per  gallon. 

The  Phylloxera,  as  yet,  is  not  found  outside  of  Sonoma 
Co.,  where  a  few  vineyards  have  been  more  or  less  in- 
jured. It  does  not  make  the  rapid  progress  ascribed  to 
it  in  Europe  and,  I  believe,  has  not  yet  appeared  here  in 
the  winged  form.  I  believe  it  is  attributable  to  old  age, 
bed-rock,  or  hard-pan  near  the  surface,  and  exhausted 
soil,  whereby  the  vine  becomes  impoverished,  and  in  that 
condition  it  is  just  as  natural  for  it  to  be  attacked  by 
some  parasite  or  insect  as  an  impoverished  animal  is  to 
become  covered  with  vermin. 

It  is  estimated  that  there  are  40,000,000  acres  of  land 
in  this  State  well  adapted  to  viticulture,  and  the  time  is 
not  far  distant  when  the  vineyard  product  will  exceed 
all  the  other  resources  of  the  State  combined. 

If  the  industry  be  not  stifled  by  Congressional  legisla- 
tion, whoever  lives  a  half  a  century  hence,  will  find  the 
grapes  of  California  in  every  city  of  the  Union  ;  her  rai- 
sins supplying  the  whole  Western  Hemisphere  ;  her  wines 
in  every  mart  of  the  globe,  and  then,  with  her  golden 
shores,  her  sunny  clime,  her  vine-clad  hills  and  plains, 
will  California,  indeed,  be  the  Vineland  of  the  world. 


174  AMERICAN  GKAPE  GROWING 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

GRAPE  CULTURE  IN  MARYLAND.-CASHIN'S  TRELLISES. 

BY  T.   D.    CASHIN,   HAGERSTOWN,   MD. 

The  following  is  by  T.  D.  Cashin,  an  experienced  fruit 
grower  and  nurseryman,  who,  in  a  letter  dated  February 
5th,  1880,  writes  : 

"  My  grand  object  is  to  get  a  superior  grape  for  market 
alone  that  will  be  free  from  rot.  One  of  our  would-be 
scientific  men  here  says,  that  all  seedlings  of  Taylor  will 
inherit  its  defect  of  failing  to  fertilize  its  fruit,  but  of 
course  you  are  more  capable  of  judging  in  that  matter 
than  a  mere  theorist.  In  fact,  the  grape-growers  of  Mis- 
souri are  doing  more  for  the  future  and  permanence  of 
American  grape-culture,  than  all  others  in  the  United 
States  combined.  Our  Eastern  people  are  all  following 
the  old  beaten  track — Labrusca  and  its  hybrids,  leading 
to  the  same  final  result — failure ;  at  least  that  is  my 
opinion  after  14  years  of  study  and  experience.  I  mean 
to  try  the  Amber  in  the  spring.  I  have  an  excellent  ri- 
paria  (cordifolia)  seedling  of  my  own ;  in  quality  it  is 
better  than  Elvira,  but  not  so  large." 

In  a  letter  dated  February  16th,  he  writes  as  follows  : 
"  DEAR  SIR — Your  letter  and  the  picture  of  the  Amber 
grape  reached  me  a  few  days  ago.  Thanks  for  the  in- 
formation given  in  regard  to  varieties  that  I  am  interested 
in.  For  the  past  three  years  I  have  been  searching  for 
such  a  grape  as  the  Amber ;  the  bunch  is  elegant,  and 
must  be,  I  am  sure,  much  finer  in  Nature's  colors  than 
as  represented  in  the  plate. 

"  I  certainly  agree  with  you  that  the  grape-growers  in 
Missouri  who  are  endeavoring  to  improve  the  riparia 


AND  WIJSTE  MAKING.  175 

(cordifolia)  species,  are  working  on  the  right  basis,  and 
hope  that  they  will  be  amply  rewarded  for  the  time, 
patience,  and  study  required  in  the  undertaking. 

"  Of  late  years  I  have  been  experimenting  and  observing 
as  to  the  proper  methods  of  training  vines  of  this  class, 
taking  Clinton  as  the  subject  to  work  upon,  and  find  that 
the  form  of  an  arbor  or  canopy  is  the  most  successful, 
as  it  approaches  more  nearly  to  the  growth  of  the  vine  in 
its  natural  state.  I  have  two  methods,  one  for  vines 
planted  10  feet  or  more  apart,  the  other  for  those  at  a 
lesser  distance.  The  first  may  be  called  the  "  Horizontal 
Spiral"  method,  the  other  "Horizontal  Zig-Zag,"  long- 
arm  and  spur-pruning  is  followed  in  both ;  they  include 
the  principle  of  retarding  the  flow  of  sap  towards  the  top 
of  the  vine,  thereby,  to  a  great  extent,  equalizing  the  dis- 
tribution of  fruit  and  wood-forming  material.  The  trel- 
lises are  durable  and  inexpensive,  and  do  away  with  near- 
ly all  the  labor  of  tying.  I  am  very  glad  indeed  if  you 
have  found  anything  in  my  former  brief  letter  that  may 
be  of  interest  to  others,  and  if  you  think  that  drawings 
of  the  above  named  methods  of  training  might  possibly 
be  useful  additions  to  your  book,  I  shall  be  happj  to  fur- 
nish them. 

"  I  have,  so  far,  succeeded  in  raising  only  two  vines  from 
the  original  riparia  seedling,  but  shall  take  pleasure  in 
sending  you  one  of  them  early  in  the  spring  for  trial.  I 
have  named  it  the  "  Golden  Delaware,"  and  am  certain 
that  it  will  compare  favorably  with  its  namesake.  The  leaf 
is  strong  and  folds  in  a  peculiar  manner,  and  the  fruit  is 
exceedingly  delicate  and  refined — assuming  a  beautiful, 
golden  color  when  ripe." 

In  compliance  with  a  request  for  a  description  of  the 
methods  of  training  referred  to  in  the  foregoing  letter, 
Mr.  Cashin  furnishes  the  following,  accompanied  by 
sketches  from  which  the  engravings  are  made  : 


176  AMERICAN   GEAPE  GROWING 

CASEIN'S    TRELLISES. 

The  methods  of  training  shown  in  the  illustrations 
(figs.  26  and  27)  haye  many  advantages  over  those  com- 
monly used  by  grape-growers,  and  are  well  adapted  to 
our  strong  growing  native  vines,  especially  those  of  the 
cordifolia  or  riparia  species.  Some  of  the  advantages 
may  be  named  as  follows  :  Cheapness,  simplicity,  and  a 
great  saving  in  the  labor  of  tying,  which  is  almost  done 
away  with  except  after  intervals  of  years  when  the  arms 
are  renewed,  then  ties  are  necessary  to  hold  the  arms  in 
place  for  the  first  season,  after  which  they  retain  the  form 
given  them.  Tying  is  an  important  item,  as  many 
grape-growers  know  to  their  cost. 

The  horizontal  position  of  the  vine  and  drooping  form 
which  the  fruiting  canes  assume,  are  in  accord  with  the 
natural  habit  of  the  grape-vine.  This  and  the  check 
given  to  the  flow  of  sap  towards  the  top  of  the  vine  by 
winding  the  arms  around  poles,  as  in  figure  26,  or  bend- 
ing them  in  a  serpentine  form,  as  in  figure  27,  has  the 
effect  of  more  evenly  distributing  wood-producing  and 
fruit-forming  material,  thereby  keeping  up  a  proper  bal- 
ance between  the  top  and  base  of  the  vine. 

In  both  methods  the  fruit  hangs  under  the  foliage  and 
is  shaded  from  the  glare  and  heat  of  the  sun.  Grapes 
protected  in  this  manner  have  a  much  finer  bloom  than 
when  exposed.  The  canes  are  pruned  to  spurs  of  two  or 
three  buds.  Summer-pruning  is  not  resorted  to  except 
to  repress  the  overgrowth  of  canes  to  the  end  that  there 
may  be  a  free  circulation  of  air  under  the  vines  ;  though 
there  can  be  no  doubt  that  a  judicious  summer-pruning 
would  be  beneficial. 

What  I  have  called  the  "  Horizontal  Spiral  "  method, 
is  shown  in  figure  26.  The  trellis  is  formed  of  locust 
stakes  51/.,  feet  long,  31/.,  inches  thick,  and  are  set  to  a 
depth  of  18  inches,  leaving  them  4  feet  high.  Bound 


AND   WINE   MAKING 


chestnut  poles  of  nearly  the  same  thickness  as  the 
stakes  are  nailed  to  the  top  of  them,  the  ends  of  the  poles 
being  made  to  lap,  one  upon  the  other.  This  method  can 
be  used  to  advantage  in  vineyards  where  the  vines  are 


Fig.  26.—HORIRONTAL  SPIRAL  METHOD. 

planted  closely,  say  from  5  to  8  feet  apart  in  the  rows  ;  8 
feet  would  be  the  better  distance,  the  rows  being  7  feet 
apart.  The  winding  of  the  arm  allows  an  increase  in  its 
length  of  about  one-third. 

The  "  Horizontal  Zig-Zag"  method  is  shown  in  figure 


Fig.  27.— HORIZONTAL  ZIG-ZAG  METHOD. 


27;  this  is  intended  for  strong-growing  varieties.  The 
vines  may*be  planted  from  9  to  12  feet  apart  in  the  rows, 
which  may  be  9  feet  apart.  In  this  method  the  bending 
of  the  arms  allow  an  increase  in  their  length  of  about 


178  AMERICAN  GRAPE  GROWING 

two-thirds  of  the  space  alloted  to  them  ;  for  instance,  if 
the  distance  between  the  vines  in  the  row  were  9  feet,  the 
arms  would  be  15  feet  in  length.  The  stakes  are  the 
same  as  in  figure  26,  but  instead  of  poles,  pieces  of  2  by  4- 
inch  scantling  16  inches  long  are  nailed  crosswise  on  the 
top  of  each  stake.  Two  wires  (No.  10)  rest  on  the  cross- 
pieces  14  inches  apart,  resembling  the  arrangement  of 
telegraph  wires,  and  are  fastened  with  small  staples.  At 
the  end  of  the  rows  the  wires  are  attached  to  iron  pins 
sunk  in  larger  cross-pieces,  which  are  spiked  to  posts ; 
the  heads  of  these  pins  are  square,  so  tLat  the  wires  can 
be  tightened  or  loosened  as  required,  with  a  wrench. 

In  starting  a  vineyard  I  allow  the  vines  to  grow  at  will 
during  the  first  season,  keeping  the  ground  loose  and  free 
from  weeds  ;  in  the  fall  or  early  winter  the  vines  are  cut 
back,  leaving  but  two  canes  shortened  to  two  buds  each. 
If  there  is  but  one  really  strong  cane,  it  is  pruned  to 
three  buds,  and  the  other  shoots  on  the  vine  cut  away  al- 
together. In  the  spring  of  the  second  year  the  stakes  are 
put  in,  and  only  three  canes  to  each  vine  allowed  to  grow. 
When  the  two  stronger  ones  have  attained  a  length  of 
2  feet,  the  weaker  cane  is  removed,  and  the  others  care- 
fully tied  to  the  stake  with  cotton  cloth.  The  ends  of 
these  are  pinched  when  they  have  reached  the  hight  of 
the  stake  (4  feet),  and  then  whatever  laterals  that  may 
appear  are  allowed  to  grow  unchecked.  The  fall-pruning 
consists  of  merely  cutting  off  the  laterals.  Then,  or 
early  in  the  following  spring,  the  trellis  is  completed. 

During  the  third  season  a  few  bunches  of  fruit  are 
suffered  to  remain  on  each  vine,  from  three  to  six,  accord- 
ing to  the  strength  of  growth,  but  none  whatever  on  weak 
vines,  and  nil  shoots  bearing  fruit  are  pinched  to  three 
joints  beyond  the  bunches.  The  other  shoots  are  removed, 
excepting  the  topmost  one,  on  each  cane  ;  these  are  left 
to  grow  unchecked,  and,  in  order  that  they  may  make  a 
strong  growth,  not  allowed  to  bear  fruit  this  season. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  179 

These  are  the  arms,  and  as  they  extend  are  trained  hori- 
zontally— to  the  right  and  left  of  the  vine  along  the  poles 
or  wires  as  the  case  may  be,  and  tied  with  some  soft  ma- 
terial. 

In  the  fall,  or  before  March  1st  of  the  fourth  year,  the 
shoots  on  the  lower  part  of  the  vine  are  all  cut  off ;  the 
arms  are  trimmed  of  weak  or  unripe  wood,  and  then,  as 
in  figure  26,  they  are  wound  around  the  poles,  one  to  the 
right,  the  other  to  the  left  of  the  vine,  and  the  tips  fas- 
tened to  the  pole  with  double-pointed  carpet  tacks.  Arms 
from  the  next  vines  in  the  row  are  wound  on  the  same 
poles,  between  and  following  the  same  curves  as  the  first, 
and  fastened  in  like  manner,  so  that  there  will  be  two 
arms  in  each  space  between  the  vines.  Should  an  arm 
fail  to  gain  the  length  required  to  fill  the  space  allotted 
to  it,  it  can  be  lengthened  the  same  season  by  terminal 
shoots. 

In  figure  27  the  arms  are  bent  to  and  fro  in  a  zig-zag 
manner,  and  rest  on  top  of  the  wires ;  the  bends  or  elbows 
are  extended  about  2*/2  inches  beyond  the  wires  on  either 
side  ;  the  bends  are  formed  in  succession,  and  tied  to  the 
wire  at  each  point  where  they  rest  upon  it,  making  two 
ties  at  each  bend. 

The  arms  are  thus  kept  in  place  for  the  first  season  of 
their  training,  after  which  they  retain  the  form  given 
them,  and  are  held  in  position  by  the  shoots  of  new  wood 
growing  under  and  over  the  wires. 

Two  arms  are  used  in  the  same  space  if  desired,  but 
they  should  be  bent  to  cross  each  other  in  opposite  direc- 
tions, instead  of  following  the  same  curve.  In  either 
method  the  arms  should  be  renewed  after  intervals  of  five 
or  six  years.  This  is  done  by  cutting  back  one  arm  on 
each  vine  to  its  lowest  shoot,  and  when  a  new  arm  has 
grown  from  this,  the  other  arm  is  cut  back  and  renewed 
in  like  manner. 


180  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

CHAPTER  XL. 

GRAPE  CULTURE  IN  MISSOURI 

BY  THE  HON.   PR.   MUENCH. 

(Extract  from  a  Letter  written  for  the  Am.  Wine  and  Grape  Grower.) 

"1.  I  must  wonder,  that  still  the  Herbemont,  Lenoir, 
Devereux,  Elsinburg,  Eumelan,  Norton,  Cynthiana,  Cun- 
ningham, Hermann,  Louisiana,  Humboldt,  Neosho,  etc., 
are  thrown  together  as  belonging  to  the  mstivalis  class. 
In  truth,  there  is  as  much  essential  difference  between 
some  of  those  vines  as  between  the  Clinton  and  Concords. 
A  certain  class  of  vines  to  which  the  Herbemont,  Lenoir, 
Cunningham,  Devereux,  Rulander,  Louisiana,  and  their 
seedlings,  and  probably  the  Delaware  belong,  and  which 
are  by  some  named  southern  cestivalis,  are  in  my  '  School 
for  American  Grape  Culture'  designated  as  '  vimfera- 
like '  for  the  following  reasons  :  Some  of  them  (as  the 
Louisiana  and  Rulander)  are  ostensibly  or  undoubtedly 
of  European  origin — others  may  be  descended  from  the 
seeds  of  imported  vines  (as  the  Delaware)  found  grow- 
ing wild  in  the  woods  near  the  place  where  once  Joseph 
Bonaparte  lived,  and  most  similar  to  the  well-known 
Traminer  which  he  had  tried  to  cultivate  on  his  villa ; 
others  may  first  have  been  planted  by  the  Huguenots 
in  South  Carolina  and  elsewhere,  and  disseminated  by 
birds  ;  at  any  rate,  these  vines,  materially  differing  from 
all  our  indigenous  varieties,  are  so  nearly  related  to  the 
Vitis  vmifera,  that,  for  instance,  visiting  the  vineyards 
near  Zurich,  in  Switzerland  (in  1859),  I  could  hardly  dis- 
tinguish the  vines  growing  there  from  our  own  Herbe- 
mont. Thus  we  have  here  a  quite  peculiar  class  of  vines 
not  to  be  amalgamated  with, the  true  cestivalis  or  any 
other  grape  family. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  181 

"  2.  Most  surely  are  the  cestivalis  vines — in  combina- 
tion with  a  number  of  Taylor  seedlings — best  suited  for 
the  vast  region  extending  between  the  40th  and  36th  de- 
gree of  latitude,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  ; 
north  of  this  region  is  the  true  home  of  the  Labrusca 
vines  and  the  earlier  Taylor  seedlings  (Noah,  Black  Pearl, 
etc.  ),while  south  of  it  the  Scuppernong  and  some  vinifera- 
like,  and  also  cestivalis  vines  thrive  best.  Chiefly  the 
middle  portion  of  the  Mississippi  Valley  (Missouri,  Ar- 
kansas, etc.)  is  apt  to  produce  from  our  best  cestivalis 
vines  dark  wines  of  the  highest  excellence. 

"3.  All  the  cestivalis  vines  tried  by  me  are  not  only 
'  Phylloxera-proof,'  but  also  rot-proof,  except  in  the  most 
unfavorable  seasons  in  unsuitable  positions,  and  by  care- 
less and  unreasonable  treatment. 

"4.  As  a  general  thing  the  berries  of  the  cestivalis 
grapes  are  destitute  of  pulp,  but  there  are  several  inferior 
as  well  as  most  highly  valuable.  Some  cestivalis  vines 
are  very  pulpy,  for  instance,  the  Par  West  (first  grown 
by  me  from  a  scion  plucked  in  the  original  forests  of 
Newton  Co.,  in  S.  W.  Missouri),  which  yields  a  red  wine, 
declared  by  connoisseurs  to  be  of  the  finest  flavor  and 
aroma,  quite  new,  and  as  yet  unsurpassed. 

"5.  It  is  lost  labor  to  try  to  propagate  some  of  the 
cestivalis  vines  from  cuttings,  or  even  in  propagating 
houses,  such  as  Neosho,  Far  West,  and  the  Arkansas  va- 
rieties, the  wood  of  which  is  as  hard  as  white-thorn 
(which  fits  them  to  withstand  our  variable  climate  and 
the  whims  of  our  weather);  they  must  be  propagated 
either  by  grafting  (they  will  not  grow  well  on  Labrusca 
roots)  or  by  very  careful  layering. 

"6.  The  Elsinburg  I  would  rather  class  among  the 
cordifolias,  it  being  apparently  near  akin  to  the  Clinton. 

' '  7.  The  Ives,  Perkins,  and  the  like,  I  do  not  consider 


182  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

worth  cultivating,  while  with  us  the  noble  Cynthiana 
and  Neosho  do  remarkably  well,  to  which  other  highly 
valuable  Western  varieties  will  soon  be  added." 


CHAPTER    XLI. 

GRAPE  CULTURE  NEAR  CHATTANOOGA,  TENN. 
(From  t?ie  Chattanooga  Times.) 

It  will  be,  perhaps,  a  little  surprising  to  some  when 
the  real  status  and  future  of  grape-growing  in  this  sec- 
tion is  known.  We  have  taken  some  pains  to  investi- 
gate this  matter,  and  although  our  figures  may  not  be 
precisely  right,  they  are  still  approximately  correct. 

There  are  now  150  acres  of  land  around  Chattanooga 
within  a  radius  of  five  miles,  entirely  devoted  to  grape- 
culture.  All  of  this  is  now  in  bearing,  but  the  next  sea- 
son the  prospect  is  that  much  more  of  this  land  will 
be  put  into  grape  cultivation.  Seventy  acres  are  owned 
by  btanley  &  Rickey,  the  rest  is  owned  by  parties  in 
small  lots.  This  year  the  grapes,  as  a  general  rule,  are 
much  finer  than  usual,  but  there  will  be  only  about 
half  a  crop,  caused  by  the  unusual  cold  spring.  In  the 
last  si^  years  there  has  been  no  failure  at  all  in  the 
crop,  and  all  but  one  were  fair.  The  crop  this  season 
will  amount  to  about  200,000  pounds.  An  acre,  when 
trellised  well,  will,  on  an  average,  yield  about  4,000 
pounds,  and  where  there  are  only  poles,  about  2,000 
pounds.  The  average  price  in  the  Northern  market  the 
year  around  is  about  ten  cents  ;  therefore,  this  year's 
grape  crop  will  bring  about  $20,000  in  this  section. 
At  present  the  high  express  rates  and  frequent  trans- 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  183 

fers  reduce  the  net  amount  received  by  the  growers  to 
a  small  margin,  hut  when  the  0.  S.  R.  R.  is  completed, 
all  of  this  will  be  obviated,  and  the  profits  will  be 
tripled  or  even  quadrupled.  In  view  of  this  there  will 
be  heavy  outlays  by  all  growers  this  winter,  and  next 
summer  the  largest  stock  ever  grown  here  can  be  ex- 
pected. The  large  majority  of  growers  ship  to  Cincin- 
nati, but  Stanley  &  Rickey  send  their  grapes  to  Chicago 
alone.  In  illustration  of  the  quality  of  the  grapes 
grown  in  this  section,  we  will  cite  one  instance  :  On 
August  7,  Southern  Illinois  grapes  sold  in  Chicago  at 
5  cents  per  pound,  on  the  same  day  Chattanooga  grapes 
brought  10  cents. 

The  shipment  from  this  point  sometimes  is  very  large  ; 
Stanley  &  Rickey  have  been  known  to  ship  in  one  day 
as  high  as  4,000  pounds.  They  employ,  at  times,  as 
high  as  thirty  men  in  their  vineyard.  A  small  portion 
gather  the  crops,  a  larger  number  are  busily  employed 
carefully  assorting  and  picking.  In  a  shipment  no 
over-ripe  or  rotten  grape  can  remain  in  a  cluster,  or  the 
whole  lot  will  be  spoiled.  The  largest  and  finest  clus- 
ters raised  this  season  have  been  by  the  Steele  Bros., 
who  ship  to  Cincinnati. 

In  the  construction  of  stands  great  care  must  be 
taken.  Sassafras  leaves  are  strewed  over  the  bottom  of 
the  drawer,  then  the  grapes  are  packed  very  tightly, 
when  they  are  covered  with  another  layer  of  leaves, 
and  are  thereby  kept  in  a  thoroughly  fresh  condition. 

Almost  all  our  grapes  are  raised  on  Missionary  Ridge. 
Nearly  every  cultivated  field  between  Rossville  and  the 
East  Tennessee,  Virginia,  and  Georgia  Railroad  tunnel 
has  a  vineyard  of  some  size.  This  country,  with  its 
numerous  hills,  is  specially  adapted  to  the  culture  of 
grapes,  and  after  rates  reasonably  profitable  to  the 
grower  can  be  obtained  on  the  railroads,  this  section 
will  become  one  of  the  most  important  grape-growing 


184  AMEBICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

localities  in  the  country.  It  is  a  lucrative  and  pleasant 
investment,  and  from  present  appearances  we  may  ex- 
claim before  long,  with,  perfect  justice.,  of  the  "  vine 
clad  hills "  of  Hamilton  County. 


CHAPTER  XLII. 

WHITE  ELK  VINEYARDS,  IOWA. 
(From,  the  American  Wine  and  Grape  Grower  for  Nov.,  1879.) 

These  vineyards  are  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  river,  in  the  south-east  corner  of  the  State 
of  Iowa,  and  in  and  near  the  city  of  Keokuk.  The 
wines  made  there  are  chiefly  Catawba,  Concord,  Ives, 
Norton's  Virginia,  Delaware,  Clinton,  lona,  and  Alvey, 
and  have  some  reputation  in  the  East,  but  are  better 
known  in  the  West  and  South.  They  are  remarkable 
for  the  reason  that  they  are  the  pure  juice  of  the 
grapes  whose  names  they  bear,  being  neither  mingled 
nor  doctored,  and  are  brought  to  maturity  by  the  Pas- 
teur method,  which  gives  the  wines  the  advantage  of  a 
year  or  more  in  ripening  them  for  market. 

The  vineyards  were  established  some  ten  or  twelve 
years  ago  by  the  Hon.  Hiram  Barney,  of  New  York,  for- 
merly Collector  under  President  Lincoln,  and  now  em- 
brace a  little  less  than  100  acres  in  vines.  The  vintage 
product  is  from  15,000  to  30,000  gallons,  and  is  increas- 
ing annually.  Mr.  Barney,  in  order  to  secure  the  future 
permanence  of  the  vineyards  after  he  has  passed  away, 
has  recently  transferred  their  ownership  to  a  corpora- 
tion known  as  the  "  White  Elk  Vineyard  Company," 


AND  WINE   MAKING.  185 

in  which  he  is  the  principal  stockholder,  with  capital 
stock  fixed  at  $50,000  (although  they  have  cost  over 
$100,000). 

The  officers  are :  Hon.  John  H.  Craig,  President ; 
Gen.  Louis  T.  Barney,  Vice -President ;  and  Hon.  Ed- 
ward Jaeger,  Secretary  and  Treasurer.  The  Directors 
are,  in  addition  to  the  above  :  Mr.  Hambden  Buel  and 
Hon.  Hiram  Barney. 

The  wealth  and  position  of  these  gentlemen,  in  ad- 
dition to  the  good  repute  in  which  the  wines  are  al- 
ready held,  ought  to,  and  no  doubt  will,  insure  the 
company  the  desired  measure  of  success. 

The  origin  of  the  name  "  "White  Elk  "  was  somewhat 
romantic  and  is  as  follows  :  In  1841,  Mr.  Barney,  then  a 
young  limb  of  the  law,  visited  the  territory  in  behalf  of 
certain  clients  who  had  invested  largely  in  the  claims  of 
the  half-breeds  of  the  Sac  and  Fox  tribes  of  Indians,  then 
residing  on  the  reservations  of  that  name  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  territory,  having  about  that  time  obtained  a 
decree  of  the  court  settling  the  title.  Late  in  the  month 
of  October,  he,  with  a  party  of  friends  and  an  interpreter, 
started  across  the  country  in  carriages  and  on  horseback  to 
the  Indian  encampment,  some  100  miles  beyond  the  lines 
of  civilized  habitations  ;  arriving  there  they  were  received 
with  great  ceremony,  and  treated  with  kingly  hospitality 
by  Keokuk  the  then  King  of  the  united  Sac  and  Fox 
tribes,  and  also  by  all  the  lesser  chiefs,  in  imitation  of  the 
head  one.  Mr.  Barney  and  his  party -remained  two  or  three 
days  and  then  prepared  to  return  to  their  homes  beyond 
the  Mississippi,  but  before  doing  so  Mr.  Barney  thought  it 
worth  his  while  for  certain  reasons  to  be  adopted  into  the 
tribe,  and  sought  Keokuk  for  the  purpose  of  having  the 
ceremony  performed,  but  not  finding  him  at  the  moment 
concluded  to  take  his  departure  as  he  came,  a  simple  white 
man.  But  the  fates  had  ordered  otherwise,  for  they  had 
proceeded  scarcely  a  mile  on  their  journey  before  they  were 


186  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

intercepted  by  Na-She-Kus-Kuk,  Chief  of  the  Sac  tribe, 
with  fifty  mounted  Indians,  in  full  war  paint  and  feathers, 
all  charging  at  full  speed.  The  young  chief,  who  was  a 
magnificent  specimen  of  the  red  man,  standing  6  feet,  rode 
up  and  made  known  the  fact  that  he  had  been  sent  by 
Keokuk  to  perform  the  ceremony  of  adoption  for  his 
brother  the  pale  face.  Mr.  Barney  having  expressed  his 
willingness,  Na-She-Kus-Kuk  raising  his  arm  gracefully, 
slowly,  and  with  emphasis,  pronounced  the  words  Wa-Be- 
Me-Shi-Wa,  or  "White  Elk,  which  was  the  tribal  name 
given  to  Mr.  Barney  ;  all  the  Indians  composing  the  caval- 
cade, and  a  multitude  of  women  and  children  who  had  by 
this  time  gathered  around,  took  up  the  word  and  shouted 
it  over  and  over  again,  while  the  horsemen  wheeled  and 
disappeared  as  quickly  as  they  came.  And  thus  Mr. 
Barney  became  the  Sac  Chief,  "  White  Elk,"  which  name 
he  bestowed  upon  his  vineyards  as  a  memorial  of  this 
singular  event. 


CHAPTER  XLIII. 

THE  PHYLLOXERA  PROBLEM. 
(From  the  Pacific  Rural  Press.) 

Julius  Dresel,  of  Sonoma,  Cal.,  writes  to  the  ^4  ?fo  con- 
cerning the  danger  of  the  Phylloxera,  and  what  he  is  do- 
ing to  guard  against  it,  as  follows  :  Something  must  be 
done  soon,  or  shall  we  continue  calmly  to  stand  by  and 
see  the  vineyards,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Sonoma  for  in- 
stance, in  increasing  proportions  steadily  changing  into 
dead  land  ?  In  vain  I  look  around,  and  nowhere  can  I 
see  any  serious  steps  taken  to  remedy  the  fearful  evil  that 
is  upon  us.  But  how  can  we  afford  to  remain  inac- 
tive for  another  season  !  Forsooth,  then,  we  had  better 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  187 

prepare  ourselves  at  once  to  see  the  100,000  vines 
already  destroyed,  amount  to  millions.  Allow  me, 
therefore,  to  give  you  here,  my  experience  and  my 
opinion  as  to  the  best  means  to  reconquer  the  lost 
ground  ;  for  as  to  averting  the  destroyer,  I  think  we 
had  better  dispense  with  the  application  of  any  chem- 
ical preventive.  The  great  prize  offered  by  France  for 
such  an  invention  has  not  yet  been  won ;  and  even  if 
it  had  been,  how  could  we  employ,  and  perhaps  more 
than  once,  a  chemical  preparation  on  stretches  of  100 
acres,  to  a  depth  of  4  feet  ?  And  where  is  the 
money  to  come  from  ?  And  neither  is  there  any  re- 
liance to  be  put  on  the  power  of  resistance  of  the 
younger  vines,  or  on  the  richness  of  the  soil.  My  own 
eyes  witnessed  the  Phylloxera  crawling  on  its  victims 
entirely  regardless  of  individual,  young  or  old,  luxuri- 
ous or  lean  :  all  Asiatic  varieties  of  the  Vitis  vinifera, 
that  is  to  say,  every  grapevine  imported  from  Europe, 
has  to  succumb  to  the  relentless  double  sting  of  these 
myriads  of  lice — the  roots  rot !  No  more  is  manuring, 
how  much  soever  to  be  recommended  in  other  respects, 
a  preservative  against  the  inroads  of  these  insects.  As 
the  rings  grow  wider  and  wider  from  the  spot  where 
the  stone  has  fallen  into  the  water,  be  it  deep  or  shal- 
low, so  the  circle  of  devastation  of  the  Phylloxera  ex- 
pands from  the  first  point  of  infection  toward  the  out- 
skirts over  rich  and  poor  land,  with  scarcely  any  differ- 
ence ;  the  strong  and  the  weak  have  to  perish  alike. 
In  three  years  the  work  is  done.  In  the  first  you  will 
not  remark  much,  excepting  perhaps  a  fading  of  color 
on  the  leaves  ;  in  the  second,  you  see  the  branches  no 
longer  hanging  down  in  sweeping  boughs,  but  standing 
upright,  shortened  and  stiff,  with  a  yellow  foliage  early 
in  fall  ;  in  the  third,  their  appearance  is  entirely  crip- 
pled and  shorn  ;  they  look  like  old  willow  stumps,  and 
the  horses  have  to  tear  them  out  to  be  burned.- 


188  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWIKG 

Under  these  circumstances,  I  followed  the  precedent 
of  the  French,  who,  for  sometime,  have  made  experi- 
ments with,  and  ordered  Phylloxera-proof  yines  from 
Missouri  in  still  increasing  quantities.  I  planted  Elvira 
and  Taylor,  both  white  varieties  of  the  riparia  grape, 
and  cordifolia,  a  wild,  red  variety  of  the  same  family, 
which  has  obtained  the  preference  up  to  this  time. 
Previously  I  grafted  the  cuttings  indiscriminately  with 
Gutedel,  Eiessling,  Zinfindel,  etc.,  and  I  see  them  grow 
with  their  grafts  just  as  well  as  ours  ;  also  those  that 
were  transferred  to  the  nursery,  there  to  form  roots  for 
the  next  season.  Further  my  own  experience  does  not 
go,  but  I  put  entire  confidence  in  this  way  to  help  us 
out  of  the  scratch,  supported  as  I  am  not  only  by  the 
success  of  the  French,  as  stated  in  the  highly  interest- 
ing articles  of  Wetmore,  which  appeared  in  the  Alta, 
but  also  by  the  microscopic  examinations  of  F.  Hecker 
of  Belleville,  who  found  the  fibre  of  the  varieties  of  the 
Frost  Grape  and  the  riparia  so  hard  and  tough  that  the 
tiny  trunk  of  the  Phylloxera  can  not  well  penetrate  it. 
Catawba,  Isabella,  and  many  other  varieties  formerly  in 
use,  have  been  relinquished  as  not  reliable  in  the  same 
degree,  or  for  other  objections. 

Here,  then,  we  have  a  sufficient  reason  to  make  use 
of  the  above  given  sorts,  as  resisting  the  inroads  of  the 
Phylloxera,  to  make  up  for  losses  with  new  plantations. 

I  cannot  help  wondering  at  those  who  still  continue 
to  trust  the  Asiatic  vines,  even  for  new  extensions, 
when  they  stand  surrounded  by  the  irrepressible  hosts 
of  their  arch-enemies.  No  doubt  they  believe  that 
something  fortunate  will  yet  turn  up  against  the  Phyl- 
loxera. Let  us  rather  be  watchful  and  active — all  who 
are  weary  and  burdened  with  vineyards — lest  we  may 
fall  under  an  impending  mortgage  foreclosure. 

My  mode  of  proceeding  is  this  :  I  put  an  exactly- 
fitting  graft  of  two  eyes  on  the  cuttings,  having  them 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  189 

first  shortened  for  the  uppermost  knot,  and  winding 
around  it,  all  along  the  graft-cut,  a  suitable  twine. 
I  have  not  used  any  wax,  which,  perhaps,  might  do 
well  as  a  coating.  For  the  manner  of  grafting,  every 
one  may  choose  the  cut  he  likes  best,  and  thinks  suited 
to  answer  the  purpose.  Good  care  should  be  taken  to 
prevent  the  cuttings  from  getting  dry,  by  keeping  them 
covered  with  moist  soil ;  sand  would  be  preferable.  In 
this  wise  one  can  finish  about  175  grafts  in  a  day,  sit- 
ting snugly  at  home ;  some  years  later,  grafting  on  the 
stem  may  cost  three  times  as  much  work.  I  leave  it 
to  the  judgment  of  my  fellow  vine-growers,  whether 
they  would  not  rather  plant  the  Missouri  vines  first  in 
the  nursery,  there  to  take  root,  and  graft  afterward, 
before  transferring  to  the  vineyard.  If  orders  are  given 
during  October,  the  vines  will  probably  be  sent  in 
January,  and  the  planting  should  be  done  in  March  at 
the  latest.  Do  not  expect  to  get  as  vigorous  and 
many-eyed  cuttings  as  we  are  wont  to  get  here  ;  most 
of  the  slips  are  thin  and  long-linked,  but  they  grow  all 
the  same.  About  tne  stems  which  these  Missouri  vines 
will  make,  I  cannot  speak  from  experience,  but  I  have 
not  heard  any  complaints  from  France  ;  besides,  I  am 
inclined  to  assume  that  our  genial  climate  will  improve 
their  strength,  as  it  did  for  the  Gutedel,  and  others. 


190  AMERICA^   GRAPE   GROWING 


CHAPTEE    XLIY. 

EGG  HARBOR  WINES— EARLY  WINTER  GRAPE— COST  OF  A 
VINEYARD. 

EGG  HAKBOB  WINES. 

The  following  is  extracted  from  an  account  in  the 
"  American  Wine  and  Grape  Grower,"  November,  1879, 
of  a  visit  to  Egg  Harbor,  N.  J.  With  a  view  to  make 
their  wines  better  known,  the  owness  of  the  leading  vine- 
yards, at  Egg  Harbor,  some  years  ago  inaugurated  an 
annual  reception,  to  which  prominent  citizens  of  Phila- 
delphia and  others  are  invited.  On  this  occasion 

"  The  representative  wine-growers  who  were  visited 
spared  no  pains  to  throw  open  every  source  of  informa- 
tion and  provide  all  possible  means  of  comfort  and  plea- 
sure for  the  visitors.  After  passing  upon  the  well-known 
merits  of  the  white  (  Martha '  and  red  wines  of  J.  Ful- 
ler, the  party  visited  Heil's  vineyards,  where  similar 
wines  were  tested.  Capt.  Saalman's  favorite,  '  Black 
Rose,'  next  underwent  the  trial  of  the  connoisseurs,  and 
the  party  then  visited  the  leading  wine-grower  of  the 
place,  Julius  Hincke,  prominent  as  the  man  who  placed 
his  celebrated  ( lohlink '  and  4  Franklin  '  wines  in  com- 
petion  with  those  of  France  and  the  rest  of  the  world  at 
the  Paris  Exhibition.  These  wines  took  a  medal  there, 
as  they  had  previously  done  at  the  Centennial. 

"  After  an  address  of  welcome  by  Mr.  Hincke,  ex-Presi- 
dent Lucas  took  occasion  to  express  his  gratification  over 
the  fact  that  these  wines  met  with  high  favor,  not  only 
in  New  York  and  the  other  principal  cities  of  America, 
but  also  in  England  and  on  the  European  continent. 
They  were  superior,  he  said,  to  Burgundy  wine,  and  had 
already  raised  New  Jersey  to  a  place  among  the  leading 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  191 

wine-growing  districts  of  the  world.  Count  D'Assi  coin- 
cided with  Mr.  Lucas,  and  said  he  was  forced  to  admit 
that  the  wine-growing  lands  along  the  Camden  and  At- 
lantic Kailroad  were  a  successful  rival  even  of  the  soil 
from  which  had  come  the  Falerian  that  Horace  had  im- 
mortalized. Equally  favorable  comments  were  made  by 
a  number  of  gentlemen  at  the  Claret  and  Catawba  vaults 
of  T.  H.  Bannihr." 


NOTE  ON  THE  EARLY    VICTOR    GRAPE. 
BY  SAM.  MILLER,  BLOTFTON,   MO. 

This  grape,  grown  from  seed  by  John  Burr,  of  Leaven- 
worth,  Kansas,  is  certainly  the  best  of  the  early  grapes 
that  have  yet  come  to  my  notice.  Bunch  medium  to 
large  ;  berry  size  of  Isabella,  and  has  the  same  oblong 
form,  black,  with  a  handsome  bloom  ;  pulp  soft  and 
sweet,  as  well  as  rich,  skin  thin.  It  is  entirely  free  from 
the  foxiness  of  its  parent,  the  Concord.  The  vine  i& 
vigorous,  foliage  healthy,  and  immensely  productive. 
He  has  sent  me  the  fruit  three  years  in  succession,  and  it 
has  improved  every  year.  The  past  season  it  bore  here 
with  me,  and  was  quite  a  prize.  It  ripens  about  a  week 
earlier  than  Hartford,  and  will  not  only  rank  high  as  a 
table  grape,  but  will  also  make  an  excellent  wine,  if  iny 
judgment  is  worth  anything.  Mr.  B.  has  also  a  white 
variety,  fruit  of  which  he  sent  me,  which  is  quite  early, 
and  will  give  the  Lady  a  hard  race,  as  it  is  entirely  free 
from  foxiness. 


COST  OF  ESTABLISHING  A  VINEYARD. 

This  must,  of  course,  vary  greatly  with  the  locality, 
price  of  labor,  manner  of  preparing  the  soil,  variety 
planted,  manner  of  training,  etc.  I  give  below  the  cost 
of  an  acre  in  our  locality,  (Boone  Co.,  Mo.)  on  ordinary 


192  AMERICAN   GKAPE   GROWING 

soil,  and  with  no  unusual  obstructions,    such  as  stones, 
stumps,  etc.: 

Plowing  and  sub-soiling,  three  teams $  7  00 

650  Elvira  (or  Goethe)  plants,  $5  per  100 32  50 

Planting 5  00 

Cultivating  2  years 30  00 

300  Trellis  Posts,  8  cts. . . 24  00 

500  Ibs.  No.  12  Wire,  7  cts.  per  Ib 35  00 

Setting  Posts  and  stretching  wire 5  00 

Total $138  50 

The  cost  will  vary  with  the  varieties. — If  Concord  are 
taken,  they  can  be  had  for  $1.50  per  100  ;  Norton's  Vir- 
ginia or  Cynthiana  will  cost  from  $8  to  $15  per  100. 
Thus,  the  cost  may  vary  from  $120  to  $200  per  acre. 

The  above  is  for  a  trellis  of  three  wires  ;  for  two  it  will 
be  about  $11  to  $12  less.  The  distance  is  for  vines  set 
6  X 10  or  8  X  8,  with  a  row  in  the  center  left  out  for  a  road. 
The  returns  will  vary  so  much  with  the  locality,  and 
with  the  season,  that  it  would  be  useless  to  speculate  upon 
them  here.  Every  planter  can  form  his  own  estimate. 
It  will  depend  upon  the  price  that  can  be  obtained  for  the 
grapes  or  the  wine,  and  many  other  circumstances  which 
cannot  be  foreseen  in  a  work  like  this,  which  is  merely 
intented  to  give  an  outline  of  the  necessary  operations. 


I  have  aimed  to  gather  facts  from  different  sections  of 
the  country,  from  eminent  grape-growers,  and  include 
them  in  this  little  book.  It  will  illustrate  the  different 
methods  and  views  in  different  sections,  together  with 
some  observations  made  on  a  recent  Eastern  trip,  and  I 
trust  that  this  Second  Part  will  not  be  the  least  interest- 
ing portion  of  the  work.  To  all  who  have  thus  con- 
tributed I  tender  my  grateful  acknowledgments,  as  well 
as  for  the  many  courtesies  and  friendly  greetings  I 
received  from  brother  grape-growers,  which  made  me 
feel  again  and  £gain  that  there  is  a  free-masonry  among 
members  of  our  profession,  which  makes  us  feel  at  home 
wherever  we  clasp  the  hand  of  a  follower  of  our  gentle  craft. 


PART   III. 


AMERICAN  WINE  MAKING. 


(193) 


CHAPTER    XLV. 

WINE  MAKING. 

It  can  hardly  be  expected,  in  a  book  which  only  aims 
to  be  the  guide  of  the  average  cultivator,  and  to  render 
grape  growing  and  wine  making  easy  for  the  masses,  that 
I  should  enter  into  the  secrets  of  the  wine  dealer  and 
chemist,  giving  elaborate  descriptions  of  the  manufacture 
of  sparkling  wines,  and  the  artificial  compounds  of  the 
so-called  sweet  wines,  vins  de  liqueur,  etc.  My  chief 
aim  is  to  demonstrate  in  a  simple  and  plain  manner,  the 
rules  which  are  necessary  to  success.  Wine  making  is  a 
very  simple  art,  which  every  one  with  sound  common 
sense  may  acquire,  yet  it  can  not  be  followed  successfully 
without  a  strict  observance  of  these  rules.  I  shall  be  as 
concise  as  possible,  and  hope  that  this  little  volume  may 
enable  every  one,  who  wishes  to  do  so,  to  make  healthful 
and  palatable  wine  for  his  own  use,  and  at  the  same  time 
to  assist  the  owner  of  ten  or  twenty  acres  of  vineyard  to 
convert  the  products  of  it  into  a  salable  article  of 
commerce. 


THE   CELLAR. 


Before  making  wine,  room  should  be  provided  to  keep 
it.  If  you  want  to  make  only  a  small  quantity  for  your 
own  use,  and  have  a  common  house-cellar,  it  will  answer 
the  purpose,  although  not  likely  to  be  cool  enough  in 
summer.  The  main  consideration  is  to  always  have 
the  wine  thoroughly  fermented  and  finished  during 
(195) 


196  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

the  first  winter.  If  this  is  the  case,  it  will  keep  even  in  a 
temperature  of  65°,  though  45°  would  be  better.  But  if 
one  wishes  to  take  up  wine  making  as  a  business,  and 
manufacture  several  thousand  gallons,  a  special  building 
for  the  purpose  is  necessary. 

A  steep  hillside,  sloping  towards  the  north,  is  the 
most  suitable  locality,  and  the  most  economical  and 
most  convenient  building  is  one  of  three  stories.  The 
lower  one,  for  keeping  the  wine  when  finished,  should  be 
completely  underground,  the  second  story,  intended  for 
the  fermenting  cellar,  partially  so,  at  least,  and  the  third, 
intended  for  the  press  house,  can  be  entirely  above  ground, 
so  that  the  grapes  can  be  conveniently  carried  into  it. 
The  lower  story  should  be  well  walled  and,  if  possible, 
arched  with  stone,  though  this  is  not  indispensable.  If 
arched,  it  should  be  about  18  feet  wide  by  12  feet  high 
from  the  floor  to  the  middle  of  the  arch,  so  that  there  is 
room  for  casks  5  feet  long  in  two  rows,  one  on  each  side, 
space  enough  between  the  casks  and  the  wall  to  pass  be- 
hind them,  and  a  passage  of  5  to  6  feet  in  the  center,  to 
allow  space  for  drawing  off  wine,  moving  casks,  etc. 
The  length  can  be  suited  to  the  wants  of  the  builder  ;  the 
entrance  should,  if  possible,  be  even  with  the  ground, 
and  if  built  into  the  hillside,  it  can  easily  be  made  so, 
and  the  back  part  of  the  cellar  slightly  elevated,  so  that 
it  will  drain  towards  the  door.  It  is  best  to  have  a  room 
in  front,  so  as  to  keep  out  the  cold  air  ;  this  can  be 
used  for  storing  empty  casks,  cellar  utensils,  etc.  The 
cellar  should  be  well  ventilated  on  the  sides  by  air  flues 
built  in  the  wall,  and  constructed  somewhat  like  chim- 
neys, commencing  at  the  bottom  and  terminating  above 
the  arch.  These  are  to  be  closed  by  a  grate  and  trap 
door,  so  that  they  can  be  opened  at  will,  to  admit  air  and 
light.  The  cellar  is  to  be  closed  by  strong  double  doors. 
Place  on  each  side  two  rows  of  beams,  lengthwise,  as 
layers  for  the  casks,  one  to  be  about  2  feet  from  the  wall, 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  197 

the  other  41/,  feet.  It  will  be  best  if  the  floor  is  paved 
with  brick  or  flags. 

The  second  story  of  the  building  is  intended  for  the 
fermenting  cellar,  and  may  be  made  either  of  stone,  which 
is  certainly  the  most  durable,  or  of  wood,  if  cheaper  and 
more  convenient ;  it  need  not  be  arched.  It  should  be, 
at  least,  9  feet  high,  and  partly  under  ground,  with  its 
entrance  from  the  rear,  as  this  will  be  more  convenient. 
There  ought  to  be  holes  through  the  arch  of  the  lower 
cellar,  large  enough  to  admit  the  passage  of  a  hose,  by 
which  the  wine  can  be  racked  from  the  casks  in  the 
upper  cellar  into  the  casks  below.  This  room  need  not 
be  arched,  but  should  be  so  constructed  that  it  is  free 
from  frost,  and  can  be  heated  by  a  stove,  if  necessary,  to 
regulate  the  temperature  while  the  must  is  fermenting. 
Place  layers,  or  beams,  to  receive  the  casks,  on  both 
sides,  as  in  the  lower  cellar. 

The  third  story  is  above  the  ground,  and  is  calculated  for 
the  press  room,  with  the  entrance  from  the  back,  and  is 
intended  to  contain  the  wine  press,  grape  mill,  and  fer- 
menting vats,  together  with  all  the  necessary  implements 
for  wine  making.  The  whole  is  to  be  covered  with  a  good 
roof,  and  there  should  be  a  large  cistern,  to  receive  all  the 
water  from  it,  and  as  convenient  to  the  press  room  as 
possible,  so  that  the  water  can  be  drawn  into  the  room  by 
a  force  pump.  If  the  press  room  is  so  arranged  as  to  be 
heated  by  a  stove,  it  will  be  found  convenient  in  winter 
as  a  shop  in  which  to  prepare  cuttings,  etc. 

To  sum  up,  there  should  be  :  1st.  A  cellar  to  keep  the 
fermented  wine  altogether  below  ground,  so  that  it  will 
remain  at  as  even  a  temperature  as  possible.  2nd.  A  fer- 
menting cellar,  or  good,  air  tight  room,  which  need  not 
necessarily  be  below  ground,  if  it  can  be  kept  free  from 
frost  until  about  December  15th,  to  put  the  must  through 
a  rapid  and  thorough  fermentation.  3d.  A  press  room  for 
receiving  and  washing  the  grapes,  and,  when  necessary, 


198  AMERICAN   GKAPE   GROWING 

passing  them  through  alight  fermentation  before  pressing, 
with  sufficient  room  for  all  the  implements.  4th.  Plenty 
of  good  cistern  water  for  all  purposes.  All  the  stories,  for 
greater  convenience  in  working,  to  be  connected  by  hose. 
As  observed  before,  any  one  can  make  and  keep  a  small 
quantity  of  wine  for  home  use,  even  without  a  regular 
wine  cellar.  One  of  the  most  successful  wine  makers  I 
ever  knew,  and  who  afterwards  made  it  by  tens  of  thou- 
sands of  gallons,  stored  his  first  crop  in  a  hole  in  the 
ground,  8  feet  deep,  and  planked  inside,  with  a  board 
roof  ;  in  this  he  placed  his  casks,  and  covered  the  whole 
with  earth.  But  for  the  cultivator  who  would  make 
grape  growing  and  wine  making  his  business,  a  separate 
wine  cellar  will  become  absolutely  necessary,  and  should 
be  built  as  soon  as  possible.  The  expense  will  be  accord- 
ing to  the  dimensions ;  a  building  30  by  18  feet  would 
cost  here  now  about  $1,500,  and  have  a  capacity  of  5,000 
gallons  in  the  lower  cellar,  provided  casks  of  not  less  than 
500  gallons  are  used. 

CELLAR    FURNITURE. 

"We  now  come  to  the  utensils  necessary  for  wine  mak- 
ing. You  need : 

1st.  A  PRESS. — The  most  convenient  one  for  a  medium- 
sized  establishment,  to  press  say  not  over  5,000  gallons 
per  annum,  I  have  found  to  be  one  made  at  Belleville, 
111.  It  is  compact,  takes  little  space,  and  it  has  a  false 
bottom,  which  can  be  easily  taken  off  and  cleaned. 
The  hopper  is  in  the  shape  of  a  double-grooved  ring,  so 
that  the  juice  can  flow  off  towards  the  middle,  the  out- 
side, and  the  bottom  ;  it  does  the  work  quickly  and  well. 
A  strong  iron  screw  is  in  the  middle,  and  is  worked  by 
a  lever  on  top.  It  costs  about  $35  to  $40.  It  is  dura- 
ble, easily  cleaned,  and  takes  little  space.  A  small 
quantity  of  grapes  can,  of  course,  be  pressed  with  any 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  199 

kind  of  a  cider  press.      One  will  press  about  a  barrel  at 
a  time,  and  twenty  barrels  can  be  worked  off  in  a  day. 

2nd.  THE  MILL. — For  mashing  grapes,  a  simple  pair 
of  wooden  rollers,  connected  by  cog  wheels,  and  running 
against  each  other,  so  arranged  that  they  can  be  set  by 
screws  to  any  desired  distance  apart,  will  do  the  work 
better  than  anything  else,  and  a  boy  of  ten  years  can  turn 
them.  The  rollers  are  in  a  frame  which  can  be  set  over 
the  vat ;  a  hopper  on  top  to  receive  the  grapes,  completes 
the  arrangement.  The  rollers  can  be  either  plain  or 
grooved,  as  desired,  and  the  whole  will  cost  from  $12  to  $15. 
Small  quantities  may  be  mashed  with  a  wooden  pestle  in 
a  tub.  The  rollers  should  be  so  set  as  to  break  the  skins 
of  the  berries,  but  not  to  crush  the  seeds  or  stems. 

3d.  FERMENTING  VATS. — These  are  best  made  of  pop- 
lar wood,  and  may  be  of  any  suitable  size,  with  a  capacity 
of  from  100  to  500  gallons.  For  a  larger  establishment 
I  would  prefer  them  about  5  feet  diameter  by  5  feet  high, 
and  somewhat  narrower  at  the  top  than  at  bottom.  They 
should  be  well  hooped  and  strong,  maie  of  r/2-inch  lum- 
ber, and  worked  smoothly  inside,  so  that  they  can  be 
easily  cleaned,  with  a  spigot  hole  near  the  botton  to  draw 
oif  the  must.  Their  probable  cost  is  about  five  to  six 
cents  per  gallon. 

4th.  CASKS. — These  are  wanted,  of  course,  of  all  di- 
mensions. Large  casks  save  room,  and  are  proportionally 
cheaper ;  fermentation  progresses  rapidly  in  them,  but  it 
takes  longer  for  the  wine  to  fine  and  clear  after  fermen- 
tation is  over,  than  in  small  casks.  They  should  be  of 
good,  well  seasoned  white  oak  wood  ;  if  steamed  before 
using,  so  that  the  tannin  is  drawn  out,  so  much  the 
better.  Larger  casks  should  also  have  a  so-called  "man- 
hole," so  that  a  man  or  boy  can  slip  in  and  thoroughly 
clean  them  when  used.  I  do  not  advise  larger  casks  than 
500  gallons,  as  it  takes  too  long  to  fill  them,  and  they  are, 


200 


AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 


therefore,  unhandy,  except  for  very  large  establishments. 

These  are  about  5  feet  long  by  5  feet  diameter,  and  should 

be  placed  on  strong  beams 
in  the  cellar,  about  18  inch- 
es above  the  floor  and  15  to 
18  inches  from  the  wall,  so 
as  to  enable  you  to  examine 
them  at  any  time  and  clean 
them  of  mould  or  cobwebs. 
Their  cost  at  present  is 
about  7  cents  per  gallon. 
Imported  Rhenish  wine 
casks,  holding  from  80  to 

160  gallons  each,  are  also  very  good  if  they  have  not  been 

allowed  to  sour  or  become  mouldy,  but,  of  course,  they 

take  up  more  room  in  proportion  than 

do  large  casks. 
5th.  A  STRONG  WOODEN  FUNNEL.— 

This  is  oblong,  with  a  copper  pipe  in 

the  bottom,  and  has  two  short  wooden 

legs,  so  that  ifc  will  set  firmly  on  the 

cask.     Any  good  cooper  can  make  one. 

See  figure  28. 
6th.  TUBS  TO  BE  USED  IN  PRESSING. 

— Any  good  pine  or  cedar  tubs  will  do 

for  the  purpose.      Also  clean  tin  or 

wooden  pails   should  be  provided  in 

abundance. 
7th.    A  SACCHAROMETER  OR  MUST 

SCALE. — This  is   important  and  you 

can  not  do  without,  as  they  are  the 

only  sure  guides  as  to  quality  of  the 

must,  and  you  can  not  make  wine  ra- 
tionally or  with  certainty  of  success, 

unless  you  know  what  amount  of  sugar 

must  contains. 


Fig.  29. 

and  acid  the 
Oechsle's  is  the  one  most  commonly 


AND  WINE  MAKING. 


201 


used,  and  can  be  had  in  any  optical  establishment.  They 
are  made  of  glass,  platina,  or  silver,  at  prices  ranging 
from  $3  to  $10. 

Figure  29  shows  must  scale  (silver)  and  test  tube.  With 
the  scale  you  should  also  have  a  long  glass,  or  tin  tube 
made  for  the  purpose  of  holding  the  must  while  testing  it. 

AN  ACIDIMETER. — The  one  invented  and  patented  by 
Henry  Twitchell  is  simple,  and  can  be  used  with  accuracy 


Fig.  30. — ACIDIMETEK. 

by  beginners.  It  is  a  timely  invention,  as  it  took  long 
practice  to  work  correctly  with  either  Otto's  or  G-eissler's. 
It  is  accompanied  with  full  directions  for  its  use.  Fig- 
ure 30  gives  an  illustration  of  the  Acidimeter. 


202  AMEEICAK   GEAPE   GROWING 

GATHERING  THE   GRAPES. 

Having  our  cellar  built,  and  stocked  with  the  necessary 
implements,  we  can  now  proceed  to  gather  the  grapes. 
The  proper  time  to  do  this  depends  very  much  upon 
the  varieties.  The  cestivalis,  and  most  of  the  cordifolia 
class,  in  short,  all  grapes  which  have  an  agreeable  flavor — 
one  which  we  wish  to  have  in  its  fullest  development  in 
the  must  or  wine — we  ought  to  have  thoroughly  ripe. 
The  riper  the  grapes,  the  more  fully  will  their  peculiar 
flavor  be  develop  3d,  the  less  acid  and  the  more  sugar  will 
they  contain.  We  must,  therefore,  learn  the  nature  of 
our  grapes  before  we  know  when  to  gather  them.  In  the  va- 
rieties of  Labrusca,  at  least  in  most  of  them,  their  peculiar 
flavor  is  not  desirable  in  its  highest  development,  and  is 
generally  characterized  as  "foxy."  A  good  many  of 
them  also,  for  instance,  Concord  and  Martha,  do  not 
contain  the  proper  amount  "of  acid  when  fully  ripe,  to 
bear  the  necessary  dilution  of  this  strong,  foxy  taste,  and 
as  they  must  be  "Gallized"  at  any  rate,  to  be  palatable,  it 
is  not  advisable  to  let  them  get  over  rips.  I  would  advise, 
therefore,  to  take  these,  and,  in  short,  all  the  varieties 
with  a  strong,  foxy,  and  disagreeable  aroma,  when  fully 
colored,  and  let  those  varieties  with  an  agreeable  aroma 
hang  long,  in  order  to  obtain  their  flavor  in  its  full 
perfection  and  delicacy  ;  and  also  to  develop  the  greatest 
amount  of  sugar  and  dimmish  the  acid.  The  best  evi- 
dences of  a  grape  being  thoroughly  ripe  are  :  1st.  The 
stem  turns  brown  and  begins  to  shrivel.  2d.  The  berry 
begins  to  shrivel  around  the  stem.  3d.  The  skin  is  thin 
and  transparent.  4th.  The  juice  becomes  very  sweet, 
and  adheres  to  the  fingers  like  honey  or  molasses. 

It  is  often  advisable  to  gather  twice,  as  many  bunches  will 
ripen  later  than  others.  If  the  ripest  are  gathered  first,  the 
remainder  will  ripen  quicker,  and  a  uniform  product  can 
thus  be  obtained.  The  first  implements  needed  for  the 


AND  WINE  MAKING. 


203 


gathering  are  clean  wooden  or  tin  pails,  and  sharp  knives, 
or  better  still,  the  small  shears  spoken  of  in  a  former 
part  of  this  work.  Each  gatherer  is  provided  with  a  pail, 
or  two  may  go  together,  having  a  pail  each,  so  that  one 
can  empty  and  the  other  keep  filling.  If  there  are  a  good 
many  unripe  berries  on  the  bunches,  these  may  be  put 
into  a  separate  pail,  and  also  all  that  are  soft,  as  they 
will  make  an  inferior  wine.  The  bunch  is  cut  with  as 
short  a  stem  as  possible,  as  the 
stems  contain  a  great  deal  of 
acid  and  tannin  ;  every  unripe, 
dry,  or  decayed  berry  is  to  be 
picked  out,  so  that  none  but  per- 
fectly sound,  ripe  berries  remain. 
We  also  need  a  carrying  vat, 
to  carry  the  grapes  to  the  mill 
or  wagon,  if  the  vineyard  is  any 
distance  from  the  cellar.  This 
is  made  of  half-inch  pine  lum- 
ber 3  feet  high,  10  inches  wide 
at  bottom,  20  inches  at  top, 
being  flat  on  one  side,  where  it 
comes  against  the  back ;  it  is 
bound  with  thin  iron  hoops.  It 
is  carried  by  two  leather  straps 
running  over  the  shoulders,  as  shown  in  figure  31,  and 
will  contain  about  8  or  10  pails,  or  2  to  21/,  bushels 
of  grapes.  The  carrier  can  easily  take  it  through  the 
rows  and  lean  it  against  a  post  until  filled,  and  then  carry 
the  grapes  directly  to  the  press  room,  if  close  by,  if  too 
far,  place  tubs  or  vats  on  the  wagon,  into  which  the 
grapes  may  be  emptied.  The  utmost  cleanliness  should 
be  observed  in  all  the  apparatus,  and  no  tub,  vat,  or  pail 
should  be  used  which  is  in  the  least  mouldy,  as  the  must 
will  at  once  acquire  any  foreign  taste.  Everything  should 
be  perfectly  clean  and  sweet,  and  a  strict  supervision 


Fig.  31.— CARRYING  VAT. 


204  AMERICAN   GRAPE   OttOWINQ 

kept  up,  that,  tho  laborers  do  not  drop  crumbs  of  broad, 
oto.,  among  the  grapes,  as  these  will  cause  aeotous  formon- 
tation.  Tho  weather  should  bo  dry  and  fair,  and  tho 
grapes  dry  when  gathered. 

MAKING    TIIIC   WIN  1C. 

Tho  apparatus  being  all  ready,  wo  c!m  oommonoo  opera- 
tions, and  horo  wo  must  know,  first  and  foremost,  what 
kind  of  wino  we  intend  to  make,  whether  light-colored 
and  smooth,  or  dark-colored  and  astringent.  The  ehar- 
acter  of  the  wine  depends  ehiofly  on  its  fermentation  on 
tho  husks,  although  of  eourso  wo  eannot  make  an  entirely 
white  wino  out  of  a  grape  with  very  dark  juiee,  nor  a  red 

wine,  except  by  artificial  coloring,  out    of  a    while   grape, 

or  0110  with  very  light-colored  juieo.  Tho  general  rule 
is,  however,  that  fermentation  draws  aeid,  tannin,  color, 
and  flavor  out  of  tho  skins  and  stems,  so  that  if  wo  desiro 
to  develop  the  greatest  amount  of  these,  we  must  let  tho 
must  remain  longer  on  tho  husks  ;  if,  on  tho  eontrary, 
we  desire  a  mild,  smooth  wine,  it  should  not  I'ennenl  long 
on  the  husks.  Many  of  I  he  red  wines  of  Kurope  -ire  left 
on  the  husks  for  several  months,  and  tho  wino  is  drawn 
from  them  when  it.  is  about  finished. 

To  mako  white,  or  light-colored,  smooth  wino,  tho 
grapes  which  were  Dithered  ;ind  mashed  during  I  he  day 
e;m  be  pressed  and  put  into  the  cask  during  the  following 
night.  The  mill  is  placed  above  the  fermenting  vat, 
and  the  grapes  are  mashed  as  soon  as  I  hey  are  earned  in, 
or  hauled  to  the  press  house.  The  vat  is  covered  wilh  a 
cloth  during  tho  day.  If  the  season  has  boon  good,  and 
yon  have  a  perfe.-i  grape  to  deal  with,  such  a  one  as  has 
all  tho  ingredients  of  a  good  wine  in  tho  proper  propor- 
tions, it  will  make  good  wine  without,  any  other  addition. 
If  not,  sugar,  or  sugar  and  water,  must  be  added,  but  I 
w  ill  speak  of  this  in  a  separate  chapter.  With  the  (-011- 
cord  grape,  many  make  both  a  white  and  a  red  wine.  Tho 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  205 

white  is  made  by  simply  pressing  very  lightly  as  soon  as 
the  grapes  are  mashed,  so  as  to  drain  off  the  first  run  of 
the  juice  before  it  has  acquired  any  color  from  the  skins. 
The  husks  are  then  thrown  into  tljg  fermenting  vat, 
water  and  sugar  added,  and  fermented  several  days ;  then 
pressed,  and  thus  a  red  wine  is  produced.  I  must  say  that 
I  prefer  the  wine  gained  by  fermenting,  say  24  hours, 
in  a  temperature  of  65°  to  80°  on  the  husks,  and  all 
pressed  together.  It  generally  contains  all  the  ingredi- 
ents in  better  proportions,  while  the  white  wine  seldom 
has  the  due  proportion  of  acid  and  tannin,  and  the  red 
generally  has  an  excess  of  acid,  tannin,  and  flavor.  Of 
course  the  temperature  has  a  great  influence  on  fermen- 
tation, as  in  warm  weather  it  progresses  much  more 
rapidly,  and  the  pressing  should  be  done  sooner  than  in 
cool  weather.  It  is  entirely  optional  with  the  wine-mak- 
er what  kind  of  wine  he  produces  ;  he  can  make  it  to  suit 
himself,  and  soon  learns  how  to  do  it.  The  longer  he 
ferments  his  must,  the  more  astringent  and  rough  his 
wine  will  be  ;  and  the  sooner  and  lighter  he  presses,  the 
less  character  will  the  wine  acquire,  though  it  will  be 
much  more  delicate  and  smooth. 

Before  filling  the  casks  they  should  be  well  prepared. 
*  They  should  be  perfectly  clean  and  sweet  without  the 
slightest  mouldiness.  If  new,  they  should  be  steamed,  or 
filled  with  pure  water,  and  allowed  to  soak  for  several 
days,  then  emptied,  and  scalded  with  two  or  three  gallons 
of  boiling  wine.  This  quantity  is  for  a  cask  of  say  500 
gallons.  Or,  if  this  is  not  convenient,  put  in,  say  a  peck 
of  unslaked  lime,  and  about  five  gallons  of  water,  then 
put  in  the  bung  and  turn  the  cask  about,  so  that  all  parts 
of  it  are  touched  by  the  mixture.  Then  pour  out  the 
lime  water,  and  wash  with  water,  then  rinse  with  a  de- 
coction of  vine  leaves,  or  warm  wine,  or  better  still,  pour 
in  a  pint  of  pure  alcohol  or  grape  brandy,  and  light 
it  by  a  match.  The  fumes  of  the  burning  brandy 


206  AMEEICAN   GttAPE  GEOWIKG 

will  penetrate  the  wood,  and  make  you  secure  against 
any  taint  in  the  wine.  But  do  not  bung  the  cask 
while  the  brandy  is  burning,  or  you  may  have  an  ex- 
plosion before  you  know  it.  The  same  may  be  done 
with  mouldy  casks,  to  make  them  fresh  and  service- 
able again. 

The  casks  can  then  be  filled  with  the  must,  either 
completely,  if  it  is  intended  that  the  must  should  fer- 
ment above,  as  it  is  called,  or  under,  when  the  cask  is 
not  completely  filled,  so  that  the  husks,  scums,  etc., 
which  the  must  will  throw  to  the  surface  during  fer- 
mentation, will  remain  in  the  cask.  Both  methods 
have  their  advantages,  but  after  long  practice,  I  now 
follow  the  latter,  leaving  empty  space  enough  until  rapid 
fermentation  is  over,  so  that  all  remains  in  the  cask.  As 
long  as  fermentation  lasts,  and  the  gas  escapes,  all  goes 
right,  and  a  few  vine  leaves  over  the  bung-hole,  on  which 
a  small  sack  of  sand  is  laid,  are  sufficient  to  close  it.  Of 
course  it  must  be  closely  watched,  and  the  bung  closed 
as  soon  as  fermentation  ceases,  when  the  casks  must  be 
filled  with  wine  kept  for  that  purpose  in  a  separate 
cask.  If,  during  fermentation,  cool  weather  should  set  in, 
and  the  temperature  fall  below  60°,  the  fermenting  cel- 
lar should  be  warmed  by  a  stove.  But  this  will  rarely 
be  the  case,  as  the  vintage  should  be  over  before  cold 
weather  sets  in. 

When  violent  fermentation  has  ceased,  and  the  must 
has  become  quiet,  the  cask  should  be  closed  with  a  tight 
bung  of  white  oak  or  poplar  wood.  To  make  dark-red 
wine,  the  treatment  differs,  as  it  is  the  object,  as  before 
remarked,  to  get  a  wine  of  the  darkest  color,  highest 
flavor,  and  of  a  certain  astringency,  which  it  will  only 
attain  by  fermenting  on  the  husks.  The  must  is,  in  that 
case,  allowed  to  ferment  on  the  husks  for  from  three  to 
six  days,  when  the  husks  which  rise  to  the  surface  should 
often  be  pressed  down  and  stirred  through  the  must,  to 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  207 

prevent  their  souring.  The  must  is  then  drawn  off  below, 
by  a  faucet,  and  the  husks  pressed.  If  it  is  desired  to  make 
only  a  dark-colored  wine,  without  so  much  astringency, 
and  of  great  body,  the  grapes  are  allowed  to  hang  until 
they  are  very  ripe,  even  shrivelled  ;  and  stemmed,  as  the 
stems  contain  a  large  amount  of  acid  and  tannin,  and 
give  the  wine  a  rough  and  bitter  taste.  In  this  manner 
the  celebrated  red  wines  of  Burgundy,  and  the  best 
brands  of  France  and  Germany,  are  made.  Many  of  them 
are  even  allowed  to  go  through  the  whole  process  of  fer- 
mentation before  pressing,  and  the  husks  are  rilled  into 
the  cask  with  the  must,  through  a  door  above,  and  remain 
there  until  the  clear  wine  is  drawn  off.  This  is  gener- 
ally not  desirable  here,  however,  as  our  red  grapes  con- 
tain sufficient  astringency  and  color  without  this  process. 
After  the  wine  has  become  quiet  it  is  looked  after  fre- 
quently, and  the  casks  filled  to  the  bung.  As  there 
is  more  or  less  evaporation,  this  should  be  done  every  two 
or  three  weeks,  always  using  wine  of  the  same  or  similar 
character.  In  two  to  three  months  the  wine  ought  to  be 
clear  and  bright,  and  should  then  be  racked,  i.  e.,  drawn 
from  the  lees  by  means  of  a  faucet,  and  put  into  clean, 
sweet  casks.  It  is  very  important  here,  again,  that  the 
casks  into  which  it  is  drawn,  are  sweet  and  clean,  or 
"  wine  green."  For  must,  fresh  brandy  or  whiskey  casks 
may  be  used  ;  but  after  the  wine  has  fermented,  it  will 
not  do  to  use  such,  as  the  wine  acquires  the  smell  and 
taste  of  the  liquor.  When  a  cask  has  been  emptied,  it 
should  be  carefully  cleaned,  as  before  described,  by  en- 
tering at  the  door  or  man-hole,  or,  with  smaller  casks,  by 
taking  out  the  head,  as  the  lees  are  very  adhesive,  and 
will  not  wash  out  readily,  but  should  ,be  brushed  off. 
After  it  is  thoroughly  cleansed  it  may  be  fumigated 
slightly,  by  burning  a  small  piece  of  sulphured  paper,  or 
a  nutmeg  in  it,  and  then  filled.  To  keep  empty  casks  in 
good  condition,  they  should,  after  cleaning,  be  allowed 


208  AMERICAN   GKAPE   GROWING 

to  become  thoroughly  dry,  when  they  are  sulphured, 
closed  tightly,  and  laid  away  in  the  cellar.  The  sulphur- 
ing should  be  repeated  every  six  weeks.  When  wanted 
for  use,  they  are  rinsed  with  cold  water. 

For  racking  the  wine  we  should  have  :  1st.  A  large, 
brass  or  wooden  faucet.  2d.  Pails  of  a  peculiar  shape, 
narrow  at  the  top,  to  prevent  wastage.  3d.  A  wooden 
funnel,  as  described  before,  to  hold  about  six  gallons. 

In  racking,  first  loosen  the  bung  of  the  cask.  Then, 
after  loosening  the  wooden  peg,  and  closing  the  tap  hole, 
let  your  assistant  hold  the  pail  opposite  the  hole.  You 
hold  the  faucet  with  your  right  hand,  and  with  the  left 
withdraw  the  plug,  inserting  the  faucet  quickly  ;  drive  it 
in  firmly  and  you  are  ready  for  the  work. 

Do  not  fully  open  the  faucet  at  first,  because  the  first 
pailful  is  generally  not  quite  clear,  and  should  run 
slowly.  This,  and  the  last  from  the  lees,  are  generally 
put  into  a  cask  together,  and  allowed  to  settle,  when,  in 
a  few  weeks,  it  will  become  clear,  and  make  a  good  wine. 
As  soon  as  the  wine  runs  clear  and  limpid,  it  can  be  put 
into  the  cask,  and  you  can  let  it  run  as  fast  as  the  faucet 
will  allow,  opening  it  to  its  fullest  capacity.  When  the 
wine  has  run  off.  down  to  the  tap  hole,  the  cask  may  be 
carefully  raised  at  the  other  end,  one  inserting  a  piece  of 
board  or  a  brick  under  it,  while  the  other  lifts  slowly  and 
gently.  This  may  be  repeated  several  times,  as  long  as 
the  wine  runs  clear,  and  when  it  becomes  slightly  cloudy, 
keep  the  cloudy  wine  to  put  with  what  ran  out  first.  As 
soon  as  it  becomes  thick  and  muddy  it  is  time  to  stop. 
The  door  is  then  taken  out  of  the  cask  and  the  lees 
emptied  out.  They  will,  if  distilled,  make  a  fine  flavored 
and  strong  brandy.  If  your  cellar  is  built  according  to 
the  plan  already  given,  you  can  attach  a  hose  to  the  faucet 
and  run  your  wine  from  the  fermenting  cellar  into  the 
cellar  and  casks  below,  which  is  a  great  saving  of  time 
and  wastage.  The  must  can  also  be  run  from  the  press- 


AND 

room  into  the  casks  in  the  fermenting  cellar  in  the  same 
manner. 

We  should  keep  in  mind,  in  all  operations,  the  kind  of 
wine  we  intend  to  make.  In  white  and  light-colored 
wines,  we  desire  delicacy  of  bouquet  and  smoothness  of 
taste  ;  in  red  wines  for  medicinal  or  stomachic  use,  we  de- 
sire astringency,  body,  and  a  decided  and  characteristic 
flavor.  White  and  light-colored  wines  should,  therefore, 
be  racked  as  soon  as  they  are  clear,  while  red  wines  may 
remain  longer  on  the  lees.  Both  can  be  modified,  by 
treatment,  to  meet  the  peculiar  taste  ;  a  red  wine  may  be 
made  smoother,  and  a  white  wine  more  astringent,  by 
longer  or  shorter  fermentation  on  the  husks  and  lees.  We 
can  thus  conform  to  the  taste  of  the  consumer.  If  the 
prevailing  taste  is  for  light-colored,  smooth  and  delicate 
wines,  we  can  make  them  so,  by  pressing  soon,  and  rack- 
ing soon  and  frequently.  If  a  dark-colored,  astringent 
wine  is  desired,  we  can  ferment  on  the  husks,  and  leave 
it  on  the  lees  a  longer  period.  There  is  a  medium  course 
in  this,  as  in  all  things,  and  the  intelligent  wine-maker 
will  soon  find  the  rules  which  should  guide  him,  and 
with  a  little  practice  discover  the  method  which  will  give 
him  the  best  results  with  a  certain  variety. 

Among  the  varieties  suited  for  white  wines,  and  which 
should  be  treated  as  such,  I  will  name  the  Elvira,  Goethe, 
Herbemont,  Martha,  Massasoit,  Uhland,  Catawba,  Dela- 
ware, and  Taylor,  and  among  the  varieties  for  dark-red 
wines,  Cynthiana,  Norton's  Virginia,  Lenoir,  Alvey, 
Clinton,  and  Ives'  Seedling.  The  Concord  can  be  use4 
for  both,  or  can  be  made  light-red.  For  Sherry  wine,  use 
the  Hermann,  Eulander,  and  Cunningham.  These  latter 
require  a  sort  of  medium  treatment ;  it  is  desirable  to 
develop  their  peculiar  flavor  ;  it  is  not  desirable  to  have 
them  astringent  or  dark-colored.  Fermenting  on  the 
husks  24  to  36  hours,  in  a  temperature  of  60°  to  70°,  will 
be  about  right  for  them.  It  is  very  important  that  the 


210  AMERICAN   GRAPE  GROWING 

temperature  should  not  vary  much  during  ferments 
tion,  and  that  the  first  fermentation  on  the  husks,  and 
for  the  first  week  following.,  should  be  rapid  and  unin- 
terrupted. If  the  wine  goes  into  the  next  summer  fully 
fermented  and  finished,  clear  and  limpid,  there  is  little 
danger  of  its  becoming  cloudy  and  diseased  afterwards, 
even  if  it  must  be  kept  in  a  changeable  temperature. 

AFTER  TREATMENT  OF  THE  WINE. 

Even  if  the  wine  was  perfectly  clear  when  drawn  off, 
in  February  and  March,  when  it  should  be  racked  for  the 
second  time,  it  will  go  through  a  second  fermentation, 
however  slight  this  may  be,  as  soon  as  warm  weather 
sets  in,  say  in  June  and  July.  The  clearer  and  better 
developed  the  wine  was  when  last  racked,  the  slighter 
this  will  be,  for  only  the  lees  yet  remaining  in  it  which 
the  young  wine  has  not  entirely  deposited  will  act  as  the 
ferment.  It  is  not  safe  or  judicious,  therefore,  to  bottle 
the  wine  before  this  second  fermentation  is  over.  As 
soon  as  the  wine  has  become  perfectly  quiet  and  clear 
again,  generally  about  September,  it  can  be  bottled,  or 
sold  by  the  cask.  For  bottling  wine  we  need  :  1st. 
Clean  bottles.  3d.  Good  corks,  which  must  be  scalded 
with  hot  water  first,  to  draw  out  all  impurities,  and 
soften  them,  and  then  be  soaked  in  cold  water.  3d.  A 
small  funnel.  4th.  A  small  faucet.  5th.  A  light, 
wooden  mallet  to  drive  in  the  corks. 

After  the  faucet  has  been  inserted  in  the  cask,  fill  your 
bottles  so  that  there  will  be  about  an  inch  of  room  be- 
tween the  cork  and  the  wine.  Let  them  stand  a  few 
minutes  before  you  drive  in  the  cork,  which  should  be  of 
full  size,  and  made  to  fit  by  compressing  at  one  end. 
Then  drive  in  the  cork  with  the  mallet,  and  lay  the 
bottles,  either  in  sand  on  the  cellar  floor,  or  on  a  rack 
made  for  that  purpose.  They  should  be  so  laid  that  the 
wine  covers  the  cork,  to  exclude  all  air.  The  greater  bulk 


AND   WINE  MAKING. 

of  the  wine,  however,  can  safely  be  sold  now,  or  kept  in 
casks.  All  the  wine  to  be  kept  should  be  racked  once 
about  every  six  months,  and  the  casks  kept  well  filled. 

DISEASES  OF  WINE  AND  THEIR  REMEDIES. 

Wine  properly  made,  and  with  all  ingredients  in  right 
proportion,  will  seldom  suffer  from  any  disease.  Cases 
may  arise,  however,  which  may  make  it  necessary  to  give 
it  a  different  treatment,  or  fine  it  by  artificial  means. 

TREATMENT  OF  FLAT  AND  TURBID  WINE. 

The  cause  of  flat  wine  is  generally  lack  of  tannin.  If  the 
wine  has  a  peculiar  flat,  soft  taste,  and  looks  cloudy,  this 
is  uniformly  the  case.  Draw  the  wine  into  another  cask, 
which  has  been  well  sulphured,  and  add  some  pulverized 
tannin,  which  can  be  had  at  any  drug  store.  The  tan- 
nin may  be  dissolved  either  in  water  or  wine,  about  an 
ounce  to  every  two  hundred  gallons  of  wine,  and  poured 
in  at  the  bung,  after  which  the  wine  should  be  well 
stirred  with  a  stick  inserted  through  the  bung-hole. 
Should  it  not  become  clear  in  about  three  weeks,  it  must 
be  fined.  This  can  be  done  by  adding  about  an  ounce  of 
powdered  gum  arabic,  or  isinglass,  to  each  forty  gallons. 
The  gum  arabic  will  dissolve  in  cold  water,  but  isinglass 
requires  hot  water  ;  stir  the  wine  well  when  it  has  been 
poured  in.  Or  take  some  wine  out  of  the  cask,  and,  for 
each  forty  gallons  of  wine,  add  the  whites  of  ten  eggs, 
whipped  to  foam  with  the  wine  taken  out;  pour  this 
mixture  into  the  cask,  stir  well,  and  bung  tightly. 
After  a  week  the  wine  will  generally  be  clear,  and  should 
then  be  drawn  off.  An  easier  and  speedier  method  to  fine 
is  to  put  it  through  a  filter  filled  with  paper  pulp,  but 
the  apparatus  is  somewhat  costly.  As  it  is  accompanied 
by  directions  for  use  to  those  who  purchase  it,  it  would 
be  superfluous  to  describe  it  here.  As  stated  before,  if 
the  wine  has  been  properly  made  and  fermented,  such 


AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

procedures  will  seldom  be  necessary,  and  the  wine  will  be 
sound  and  clear  without  any  artificial  means.  The  ob- 
servant and  rational  wine-maker  will  seldom  be  troubled 
by  any  mishaps,  and  his  wines  will  be  palatable  and 
bright  without  any  such  treatment. 

USES  OP    THE  HUSKS   AND  LEES. 

These  can  be  distilled,  and  will  make  a  very  strong,  fine 
flavored  brandy.  The  husks  are  stamped  down  into 
empty  barrels  or  vats,  as  close  as  possible,  with  a  cover  of 
clay  made  over  them,  to  exclude  the  air.  They  will  then 
undergo  a  fermentation  and  be  ready  for  distilling  in 
about  a  month.  They  should  be  taken  fresh  from  the 
press,  for  if  they  remain  exposed  to  the  air  they  become 
mouldy.  The  lees  can  be  distilled  immediately.  Good 
fresh  lees  or  husks  from  rather  astringent  wines  or 
grapes,  are  also  an  excellent  remedy  when  the  wine  be- 
comes flat,  as  described  before.  If  such  wine  is  ferment- 
ed on  the  husks  again  for  a  day  or  two,  it  will  generally 
become  sound  and  bright. 


AND   WINE  MAKING. 


CHAPTER    XLVI. 

DR.  GALL'S  AND  PETIOL'S  METHODS  OF  WINE  MAKING. 

So  far,  I  have  only  spoken  of  the  handling  of  the  raw 
product  of  Nature,  taking  for  granted  that  we  had  a  fair 
must  in  good  condition  to  work  with.  -  But  this  un- 
fortunately is  rarely  the  case,  and  the  natural  juice  of 
the  grape  seldom  contains  all  the  elementary  constituents 
of  a  good  wine  in  the  proper  proportions.  In  fact,  very 
many  of  our  American  varieties  are  very  imperfect  even 
in  the  best  seasons,  and  contain  generally  a  superabund- 
ance of  acid  and  flavoring  matter  or  aroma.  What  then 
is  the  intelligent  operator  to  do  ?  Shall  he  use  them  as 
they  are,  although  he  is  aware  they  are  imperfect,  and 
produce  a  poor,  undrinkable,  unsalable,  and  even  un- 
healthful  article  ?  Or  shall  he,  with  the  reason  and 
knowledge  God  has  given  him,  seek  to  remedy  Nature's 
imperfections,  dilute  the  acid  and  aroma,  add  sugar,  if 
necessary,  and  thus  make  a  salable,  pleasant,  and 
healthful  beverage  ?  I  think  the  intelligent  wine-makers 
— and  it  is  only  for  them  I  am  writing,  can  not  hesitate 
which  course  to  take. 

I  am  aware  that  I  am  treading  on  dangerous  ground, 
that  I  have  been  severely  censured  for  my  advocacy  of 
Dr.  Gall  in  my  former  little  book,  but  truth  remains 
truth,  whether  assailed  or  not,  and  the  laws  of  chemistry 
will  not  change  to  please  any  of  the  "  Simon  Pure  Natur- 
alists," who  rail  against  Gallizing,  because  they  do  not 
know  anything  about  its  true  principles.  But  let  me 
put  myself  right  before  my  readers,  before  entering  upon 
the  details  of  the  operation.  I  advocate  Gallizing  only  so 


214  'AMEKICA^  GBAPE  GKOWIXG 

far  as  it  is  the  best  means  of  improving  otherwise  imper- 
fect must,  not  as  an  indiscriminate  means  of  increas- 
ing the  quantity  at  the  expense  of  quality.  Only  so  far 
as  by  the  additior  of  water  and  sugar,  an  imperfect  must 
can  be  made  the  most  perfect,  is  Gallizing  not  only  justi- 
fiable, but  a  necessity.  As  soon  as  it  aims  only  at  in- 
creasing the  quantity  without  regard  to  quality,  it  is  rep- 
rehensible, and  should  be  frowned  down.  This  may  be 
called  gaUonizing,  not  Gallizing ;  and  that  these  gallon- 
izers  have  done  a  great  deal  of  mischief  by  bringing  their 
trash  before  the  public,  and  calling  it  wine,  can  not  be 
denied.  But  those  who,  from  a  mis-taken  idea  that  a 
wine  to  be  good  and  healthful,  must  be  natural,  as  they 
call  it,  have  made  it  as  Nature  gave  it,  and  have,  there- 
fore, disgusted  the  palates  of  refined  wine  connoisseurs  by 
their  pure,  but  weak,  foxy,  and  acid  Concords,  and  Ives, 
etc.,  thus  doing  even  more  to  bring  American  wines  into 
discredit  than  the  gallonizers.  Both  of  these,  the  natural 
wine-makers  and  the  gallonizers,  have  been  the  curse  and 
bane  of  our  wine  markets  ;  those  who,  in  the  inno- 
cent belief  that  they  were  tasting  fair  samples  of  Ameri- 
can wines,  swallowed  their  compounds  and  were  disgusted, 
and  when  they  met  with  good  productions,  were  de- 
terred from  tasting  again.  The  true  course  lies  in 
the  middle,  as  usual.  The  wine-maker  has  certain  un- 
erring guides,  which  teach  him,  with  a  little  practice 
and  experimenting,  "thus  far  shalt  thou  go,  but  no 
farther." 

Having  thus  defined  what  we  intend  to  do,  which  is 
simply  to  improve  our  must,  if  deficient,  let  us,  to  see 
our  way  clearly  before  us,  examine  as  to  the  consti- 
tuent parts  of  must  or  grape  juice.  A  chemical  analysis 
of  must  shows  the  following  result : 

Grape  juice  contains  water,  sugar,  free  acids,  tannin, 
gummy  and  mucous  substances  or  gluten,  coloring  mat- 
ter, fragrant,  or  flavoring  substances  (aroma,  bouquet). 


AND   WINE   MAKING. 


A  good  or  normal  must  should  contain  all  these  ingredi- 
ents in  due  proportion.  If  there  is  an  excess  of  one,  and 
a  lack  of  the  other,  it  can  not  make  a  perfect  wine. 
This  would  seem  apparent  to  every  reasoning  wine  maker. 
Must  which  contains  all  of  these  in  exactly  the  right  pro- 
portion we  call  a  perfect  or  normal  must  ;  and  only  by 
determining  the  amount  of  each  of  the  ingredients  in 
this  so-called  normal  must,  can  we  gain  the  knowledge 
that  will  enable  us  to  improve  must  which  has  not 
the  necessary  proportion  of  each.  The  frequency  of 
unfavorable  seasons  in  Europe,  set  intelligent  men  to 
thinking  ;  their  grapes  were  sadly  deficient  in  sugar,  did 
not  ripen  fully,  and  also  lacked  in  flavor.  How  then 
could  this  defect  be  remedied,  and  a  grape  crop  which 
was  almost  worthless  from  its  want  of  sugar  and  excess 
of  acids,  be  made  to  yield  at  least  a  fair  article,  instead 
of  the  sour  and  unsalable  wine  generally  produced  in 
such  seasons  ?  Among  the  foremost  who  experimented 
with  this  object  in  view  I  will  here  mention  Chaptal, 
Petiol,  but  especially  Dr,  Ludwig  Gall,  who  has  at  last 
reduced  the  whole  science  of  wine  making  to  such  a 
mathematical  certainty,  that  we  are  amazed  that  so 
simple  a  process  should  not  have  been  discovered  long 
ago.  It  is  the  old  story  of  the  egg  of  Columbus,  but  the 
poor  wine-makers  of  Germany  and  France,  and  we  in 
this  country  also,  are  none  the  less  indebted  to  those  in- 
telligent and  persevering  men  for  the  incalculable  benefits 
they  have  conferred  upon  us. 

The  production  of  good  wine  is  thus  reduced  to  a 
science  ;  though  we  cannot,  perhaps,  in  a  bad  season, 
produce  as  high  flavored  and  delicate  wines  as  in  the 
best  years,  we  can  now  always  make  a  fair  article,  by 
following  the  simple  rules  laid  down  by  Dr.  Gall. 
Nay,  as  most  of  our  grapes,  in  a  good  season,  contain 
flavor  in  excess,  we  can  often  make  fully  as  palatable 
wine  in  a  poor  season,  when  that  flavor  is  not  so  fully 


216  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

developed,  by  merely  adding  water  and  sugar  to  dilute  the 
acid.  In  this  respect  we  can  make  a  more  uniform  pro- 
duct from  our  strongly  flavored  varieties,  than  the  Euro- 
peans can  from  their  delicately  flavored  varieties  of  vini- 
fera,  which  are  deficient  in  flavor  in  bad  seasons. 

When  this  method  was  first  introduced,  it  was  calumni- 
ated and  despised,  called  adulteration  of  wine,  and  even 
prohibited  by  the  governments  of  Europe,  but  Dr.  Gall 
fearlessly  challenged  his  opponents  to  have  his  wines 
analyzed  by  the  most  eminent  chemists.  This  was  re- 
peatedly done,  and  the  results  showed  that  they  could  find 
nothing  but  such  ingredients  as  pure  wine  should  con- 
tain ;  and  since  men  like  Von  Babo,  Dobereiner,  and 
others,  have  openly  endorsed  and  recommended  Gallizing, 
prejudice  is  giving  way  before  the  light  of  scientific 
knowledge.  The  same  will  be  the  case  here.  Intelligent 
men  will  see  that  there  is  nothing  reprehensible  in  the 
practice,  and  the  public  will,  in  time,  prefer  the  properly 
Gallized,  and,  therefore,  more  palatable  and  more  health- 
ful wines,  to  the  foxy  and  acid  productions  of  the  stick- 
lers for  natural  wines. 

To  determine  the  amount  of  sugar  and  acids  in  the 
must,  we  need  a  few  necessary  implements.  The  first  is 
the  must  scale,  or  Saccharometer,  already  mentioned  in 
the  necessary  implements  for  wine  making  (see  fig.  29. ) 
The  most  suitable  one  now  in  use  is  Oechsle's  Must  Scale, 
constructed  on  the  principle  that  the  instrument  sinks 
the  deeper  into  any  fluid  the  thinner  it  is,  or  the  less 
sugar  it  contains.  It  is  generally  made  of  silver,  or 
German  bilver,  although  it  is  also  made  of  glass.  A 
represents  a  hollow  cylinder,  best  made  of  glass,  filled  with 
must  to  the  brim,  into  which  place  the  must  scale,  B. 
This  is  composed  of  the  hollow  float,  #,  which  keeps  it 
suspended  in  the  fluid  ;  of  the  weight,  #,  for  holding  it  in 
a  perpendicular  position,  and  the  scale,  divided  by  small 
lines  into  from  50°  to  100°.  Before  the  scale  is  placed 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  21? 

in  the  must,  drav7  it  several  times  through  the  mouth  to 
moisten  it,  but  allow  no  saliva  to  adhere  to  it.  When 
the  scale  ceases  to  descend,  note  the  degree  to  which 
it  has  sunk,  after  which,  press  it  down  with  the  finger  a 
few  degrees  further,  and  on  its  standing  still  again,  the 
line  to  which  the  must  reaches,  indicates  its  so-called 
weight,  expressed  by  degrees.  The  must  should  have  a 
temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  be  weighed  in  an  entirely  fresh 
state,  before  it  shows  any  sign  of  fermentation,  and  should 
be  free  from  husks ;  if  strained  through  a  piece  of 
mosquito  bar,  or  small  sieve  all  the  b.etter. 

This  instrument,  which  is  indispensable  to  every  one 
who  intends  to  make  wine  rationally,  can  now  be  had 
from  prominent  opticians  in  nearly  every  large  town.  It 
indicates  the  amount  of  sugar  in  the  must,  and  its  use  is 
so  simple,  that  every  one  can  soon  become  familiar  with 
it.  The  next  step  in  the  improvement  of  must  was  to 
determine  the  amount  of  acids  it  contained,  and  this 
problem  has  also  been  successfully  solved  by  the  inven- 
tion of  the  Acidimeter. 

As  remarked  before,  Twitchell's  Acidimeter  is  the  best 
now  in  use,  and  as  it  is  accompanied  by  full  directions 
for  use,  1  need  not  repeat  them  here,  further  than  to  say 
that  to  ascertain  the  acidity  of  must,  it  should  be  tested 
when  pressed,  as  many  of  our  pulpy  grapes  contain 
nearly  all  their  acid  in  the  pulp,  and  the  instrument 
will,  therefore,  not  give  a  fair  indication  until  fermenta* 
tion  has  drawn  out  the  acid. 

A  normal  must,  to  suit  the  prevailing  taste  here,  should} 
contain  about  four-thousandths  parts  of  acids,  while  in. 
Europe  it  varies  from  four  and  a  half  to  seven-thousandths, 
as  the  taste  there  is  generally  in  favor  of  more  acid 
wines.  I  cannot  do  better  here  than  quote  from  Dr. 
Gall,  who  gives  the  following  directions  as  a  guide  to 
distinguish  and  determine  the  proportion  of  acids  which 
10 


218  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

> 

a  must  should  contain  to  be  still  agreeable  to  the  palate, 
and  good  : 

"  Chemists  distinguish  the  acids  contained  in  the  grape 
as  the  vinous,  malic,  grape,  citric,  tannic,  gelatinous, 
and  para-citric  acids.  Whether  all  of  these  are  contained 
in  the  must,  or  which  of  them,  is  of  small  moment  for 
us  to  know.  For  the  practical  wine-maker  it  is  sufficient 
to  know,  with  full  certainty,  that,  as  the  grape  ripens, 
while  the  proportion  of  sugar  increases,  the  quantity  of 
acids  continually  diminishes,  and  hence,  by  leaving  the 
grapes  on  the  vines  as  long  as  possible,  we  have  a  double 
means  of  improving  their  products,  the  must  or  wine. 

"  All  wines,  without  exception,  to  be  of  good  and 
agreeable  taste,  must  contain  from  four  and  a  half  to  seven- 
thousandths  part  of  free  acids,  and  each  must  containing 
more  than  seven-thousandths  part  of  free  acids  may  be 
considered  as  having  too  little  water  and  sugar  in  propor- 
tion to  its  acids. 

"  In  all  the  wine-growing  countries  of  Europe,  for  a 
number  of  years  past,  experience  has  proved  that  a  cor- 
responding addition  of  sugar  and  water  is  the  means  of 
converting  the  sourest  must,  not  only  into  a  good  drink- 
able wine,  but  also  into  as  good  a  wine  as  can  be  produced 
in  favorable  years,  except  in  that  peculiar  and  delicate 
aroma  found  only  in  the  must  of  well-ripened  grapes, 
and  which  must,  and  will,  always  distinguish  the  wines 
made  in  the  best  seasons  from  those  made  in  poor 
seasons. 

"  The  Saccharometer  and  Acidimeter,  properly  used, 
will  give  us  the  exact  knowledge  of  what  the  must  con- 
tains and  what  it  lacks,  and  we  have  the  means  at  hand, 
by  adding  water,  to  reduce  the  acids  to  their  proper  pro- 
portions, and  by  adding  sugar,  to  increase  the  amount  of 
sugar  the  must  should  contain  ;  in  other  words,  we  can 
change  the  poor  must  of  indifferent  seasons  into  the  nor- 
mal must  of  the  best  seasons  in  everything,  except  its 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  219 

bouquet  or  aroma,  thereby  converting  an  unwholesome  and 
disagreeable  drink  into  an  agreeable  and  healthful  one." 

THE  CHANGE  OF  THE  MUST  INTO  WINE. 

Let  us  glance  for  a  few  moments  at  this  wonderful, 
simple,  and  yet  so  complicated  process,  to  give  a  clearer 
insight  into  the  functions  which  man  has  to  perform  to 
assist  Nature,  and  have  her  work  for  him,  to  attain  the 
desired  end.  I  cannot  do  better  than  to  quote  again  from 
Dr.  Gall.  He  says  :  "  To  form  a  correct  opinion  of 
what  may,  and  can,  be  done,  in  the  manufacture  of  wine, 
we  must  be  thoroughly  convinced  that  Nature,  in  her 
operations,  has  other  objects  in  view  than  merely  to 
serve  man  as  his  careful  cook  and  butler.  Had  the  high- 
est object  of  the  Creator,  in  the  creation  of  the  grape, 
been  simply  to  combine  in  the  juice  of  the  fruit  nothing 
but  what  is  indispensable  to  the  formation  of  the  delicious 
beverage  for  the  accommodation  of  man,  it  might  have 
been  still  easier  done  for  him  by  at  once  filling  the  ber- 
ries with  wine  already  made.  But  in  the  production  of 
fruits,  the  first  object  of  all  is  to  provide  for  the  propaga- 
tion and  preservation  of  the  species.  Each  fruit  con- 
tains the  germ  of  a  new  plant,  and  a  quantity  of  nu- 
tritious matter  surrounding  and  developing  that  germ. 
The  general  belief  is  that  this  nutritious  matter,  and  even 
the  peculiar  combination  in  which  it  is  found  in  the  fruit, 
has  been  made  directly  for  the  immediate  use  of  man. 
This,  however,  is  a  mistake.  The  nutritious  matter  of 
the  grape,  as  in  the  apple,  pear,  or  any  similar  product, 
is  designed  by  Nature  only  to  serve  as  the  first  nourish- 
ment of  the  future  plant,  the  germ  of  which  lies  in  it. 
There  are  thousand  of  fruits  of  no  use  whatever,  and  even 
noxious  to  man,  and  there  are  thousands  more,  which, 
before  they  can  be  used,  must  be  divested  of  certain 
parts,  necessary,  indeed,  to  the  nutrition  of  the  future 


220  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING. 

plant,  but  unfit,  in  their  present  state,  for  the  use  or 
nourishment  of  man.  For  instance,  barley  contains 
starch,  mucilaginous  sugar,  gum,  adhesive  matter,  vege- 
table albumen,  phosphate  of  lime,  oil,  fibre,  and  water. 
All  these  are  necessary  for  the  formation  of  roots,  stalks, 
leaves,  flowers,  and  the  new  grain  ;  but  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  beer,  the  brewer  needs  only  the  first  three  sub- 
stances. The  same  rule  applies  to  the  grape. 

"  In  this  use  of  the  grape,  all  depends  upon  the  judg- 
ment of  man  to  select  such  of  its  parts  as  he  wishes,  and 
by  his  skill  he  adapts  and  applies  them  in  the  manner 
best  for  his  purposes.  In  eating  the  grape  he  throws 
away  the  skins  and  seeds  ;  for  raisins,  he  evaporates  the 
water,  retaining  only  the  solid  parts,  from  which,  when 
he  uses  them,  he  rejects  the  seeds.  If  he  manufactures 
must  he  lets  the  skins  remain.  In  making  wine  he  sets 
free  the  carbonic  acid  contained  in  the  must,  and  re- 
moves the  lees,  gum,  tartar,  and,  in  short,  everything 
deposited  during  and  immediately  after  fermentation,  as 
well  as  when  it  is  put  into  casks  and  bottles.  He  not 
only  removes  from  the  wine  its  sediments,  but  watches 
the  fermentation  and  checks  it  as  soon  as  vinous  fer- 
mentation is  over,  and  the  formation  of  vinegar  about  to 
begin.  He  refines  his  wine  by  an  addition  of  foreign  sub- 
stances; if  necessary,  he  sulphurizes  it,  and,  by  one  means 
or  another,  remedies  its  diseases. 

"  The  manufacture  of  wine  is  thus  a  many-sided  art, 
and  he  who  does  not  understand  it,  or  knows  not  how  to 
guide  and  direct  the  powers  of  Nature  to  his  own  pur- 
poses, may  as  well  give  up  all  hopes  of  success  in  it." 

So  far  Dr.  Gall ;  and  to  the  intelligent  and  unbiased 
mind,  the  truth  and  force  of  these  remarks  will  be  appar- 
ent. How  absurd  then  are  the  blind  ravings  of  those 
who  speak  of  "natural"  wines,  and  condemn  as  adul- 
teration and  fraud  every  addition  of  sugar  and  water  to 
the  must  by  man,  in  seasons  when  Nature  has  not  fully 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  221 

done  her  part.  There  is  no  such  thing  as  "  natural 
wine,"  for  wine,  especially  good  wine,  is  the  product  of 
art,  and  an  artificial  process  from  beginning  to  end.  An 
all-wise  Creator  gave  us  the  raw  materials  for  our  suste- 
nance and  convenience,  but  gave  us  also  reasoning  powers 
to  convert  them  to  our  use,  and  make  them  more  whole- 
some and  palatable.  Shall  we  eat  the  raw  potato  simply 
because  it  is  a  natural  production,  or  are  we  justified  in 
cooking  and  roasting  it,  to  make  it  more  palatable  and 
wholesome  ?  How  would  the  "naturalist "  stare  if  some 
fine  morning  his  good  wife  would  set  a  cup  filled  with 
raw  coffee  beans  and  some  water  before  him,  instead  of 
his  usual  fragrant  beverage,  and  a  dish  of  raw  wheat  in- 
stead of  the  usual  light  rolls  which  tempt  his  appetite  ? 
Yet  the  making  of  coffee  and  bread  are  even  less  natural, 
more  artificial,  than  the  addition  of  sugar  and  water  to 
the  must.  Would  not  the  wine-maker  act  as  foolishly  as 
the  housewife  who  puts  raw  coffee  and  wheat  upon  the 
table,  instead  of  the  fragrant  cup  and  white  roll,  if  he 
has  it  in  his  power  to  remedy  the  deficiencies  of  Nature 
by  such  means  as  she  herself  supplies  in  good  seasons, 
and  which  ought,  and  would  be  in  the  must,  but  for  un- 
favorable circumstances  over  which  we  have  no  control  ? 
Wine  thus  improved  is  just  as  pure  as  if  the  water  and 
sugar  had  naturally  been  in  the  grapes  in  the  right  pro- 
portions, just  as  beneficial  to  health,  and  only  the  fanati- 
cal numskull  can  call  it  adulterated.  But  these  preju- 
dices will  disappear  before  the  light  of  science  and  truth, 
and  have  disappeared  already,  until  there  is  not  a  single 
establishment  of  any  consequence,  either  here  or  in 
Europe,  where  it  is  not  followed,  either  secretly  or  open- 
ly, and  to  the  manifest  improvement  of  their  wines. 

Yet,  strange  to  say,  these  same  "naturalists"  will 
enjoy  sparkling  wines  with  a  great  deal  of  gusto,  although 
they  are  a  still  more  artificial  product.  And  many  of 
them  will  smack  their  lips  over  some  rare  so-called,  "  Old 


222  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

Port/'  which  has  never  seen  a  grape,  but  is  some  skillful 
concoction  of  logwood,  spices,  tartaric  acid,  syrup,  alco- 
hol, and  tannin.  "  Oh,  consistency,  thou  art  a  jewel  !" 

Let  us  now  observe  the  change  which  fermentation 
makes  in  converting  the  must  into  wine.  The  nitro- 
genous compounds — vegetable  albumen,  gluten — (which 
are  contained  in  the  grape,  and  which  are  dissolved  in 
the  must  as  completely  as  the  sugar),  under  certain  cir- 
cumstances turn  into  the  fermenting  principle,  and  so 
change  the  must  into  wine.  This  change  is  brought 
about  by  the  fermenting  substance  coming  in  contact 
with  the  air,  and  receiving  oxygen  from  it,  in  conse- 
quence^of  which  it  coagulates,  and  shows  itself  in  the 
turbid  state  of  must,  or  young  wine.  The  coagulation 
of  the  lees  takes  place  but  gradually,  and  just  in  the  de- 
gree that  the  exhausted  lees  settle.  The  sugar  generally 
turns  into  alcohol.  The  acids  remain  partly  as  tartaric 
acid,  are  partly  turned  into  ether,  or  settle  with 
the  lees,  crystallize,  and  adhere  to  the  bottom  of  the 
cask.  The  etheric  oil  or  aroma  remains,  and  develops 
into  bouquet,  as  does  the  tannin,  to  a  certain  degree.  The 
albumen  and  gluten  principally  settle,  although  a  small 
portion  of  them  remains  in  the  wine.  The  coloring 
matter  and  extractive  principle  remain,  but  change  some- 
what by  fermentation. 

Thus  it  is,  that  must  containing  a  large  amount  of 
sugar,  needs  a  longer  time  to  become  clear,  while  that 
containing  but  a  small  portion  soon  becomes  clear.  Many 
southern  wines  retain  a  certain  amount  of  sugar  undecom- 
posed  ;  such  are  called  sweet,  or  liqueur  wines,  whereas 
wines  in  which  the  whole  of  the  sugar  has  been  decom- 
posed in  the  fermentation,  are  called  sour  or  dry  wines. 

I  have  thought  it  necessary  to  be  thus  explicit  to  give 
my  readers  an  insight  into  the  general  principles  which 
should  govern  us  in  wine  making.  I  have  quoted  freely 
from  the  excellent  work  of  Dr.  Gall.  We  will  now  see 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  223 

how  we  can  reduce  these  principles  to  practice.     I  will 
illustrate  by  an  example. 

NORMAL      MUST. 

Experiments  continued  for  a  number  of  years  have 
proved  that,  in  favorable  seasons,  grape  juice  contains  on 
an  average  in  1,000  pounds  : 

Suecar  ................................  240  pounds. 

Acids  ..........................  ........     6 

Water  ..............................  ...754        " 

1,000 

This  proportion  would  constitute  what  I  call  a  normal 
must.  Bat  suppose  that  in  an  inferior  season  the  must 
contains,  instead  of  the  above,  as  follows  : 


150  pounds. 
Acids....  .............................    9 

Water  .....  .  .....................  .....  841 

1,000 

What  should  we  do  to  bring  such  a  must  to  the  condi- 
tion of  a  normal  must  ?  We  calculate  thus  :  If,  with  6 
Ibs.  of  acids  in  a  normal  must,  there  is  240  Ibs.  of  sugar, 
how  much  is  wanted  for  9  Ibs.  of  acids  ?  Answer.  —  360 
Ibs.  Our  next  problem  is  :  If,  with  6  Ibs.  of  acids  in  a 
normal  must,  754  Ibs.  of  water  appear,  how  much  water 
is  required  for  9  pounds  of  acids  ?  Answer.  —  1,131  Ibs. 
As,  therefore,  the  must  which  we  intend  to  improve  by 
neutralizing  its  acids,  should  contain  360  Ibs.  of  sugar,  9 
Ibs.  of  acids,  and  1,131  Ibs.  of  water,  but  contains  already 
150  Ibs.  of  sugar,  9  Ibs.  of  acid,  and  841  Ibs.  of  water, 
there  remain  to  be  added,  210  Ibs.  of  sugar,  no  acids,  and 
290  Ibs.  of  water. 

By  ameliorating  a  quantity  of  1,000  Ibs.  of  must,  by 
210  Ibs.  sugar,  and  290  Ibs.  of  water,  we  obtain  1,500  Ibs. 
of  must,  consisting  of  the  same  properties  as  the  normal 
must,  which  makes  a  first  class  wine. 

This  is  wine  making  in  Europe,  according  to  Dr.  Gall's 


224=          AMERICAH  GRAPE  GROWING 

method.     Now  let  us  see  liow  we  can  adapt  it  to  Ameri- 
can grapes  and  wines. 

THE  MUST   OF   AMERICAN   GRAPES. 

If  we  closely  examine  the  musts  of  most  of  our  American 
grapes,  we  find  that  they  not  only  contain  an  excess  of 
acids  in  inferior  seasons,  but  even  a  greater  superabund- 
ance of  flavor  or  aroma,  and  of  tannin  and  coloring  mat- 
ter. There  is  such  an  abundance  of  flavor  in  many  of 
them,  that,  were  the  quantity  doubled  by  addition  of 
sugar  and  water,  there  would  still  be  an  abundance. 
With  some  varieties,  such  as  Concord  and  Ives,  if  fer- 
mented on  the  husks,  it  is  so  strongly  foxy,  as  to  be  dis- 
agreeable, and  as  the  pulp  of  them  is  very  tough  and 
slippery,  they  can  not  be  pressed  clean  without  fermen- 
tation. We  must,  therefore,  not  only  ameliorate  the 
acid,  but  also  the  flavor  and  astringency,  of  which  the 
tannin  contained  in  the  stems  is  the  principal  cause. 
Therefore,  it  is  even  more  important  to  us  than  to  Euro- 
pean wine-makers,  to  gain  the  knowledge  to  Gallize  our 
wines  properly.  By  proper  management  we  can  change 
must,  which  would  otherwise  make  a  disagreeable  wine, 
into  one  in  which  everything  is  in  its  right  proportion, 
and  which  will  thus  suit  a  customer  to  whose  fastidious 
taste  it  would  otherwise  be  repugnant.  True,  our  grapes 
will  ripen  better  here,  so  that  we  can,  in  most  seasons, 
produce  a  wine  without  a  great  excess  of  acids,  but  the 
American  taste  requires  a  less  acid  wine  any  way,  -and  we 
must  dilute  the  aroma  to  make  our  wines  salable.  Here 
another  difficulty  presents  itself.  The  riper  a  grape  is,  the 
more  of  its  peculiar  aroma  will  it  develop,  and  if  we 
would  let  our  Concords  hang  until  they  are  so  ripe  that 
the  acid  has  been  reduced  to  the  proper  proportion,  the 
aroma  becomes  so  strong  that  it  is  very  repugnant  to  a 
refined  taste.  What  course  remains  then  for  us  to  take  ? 
Shall  we  let  our  grapes  hang  until  the  acid  is  reduced, 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  225 

and  make  an  abominably,  foxy  wine,  which  no  one  will 
buy  ?  Or  shall  we  gather  our  grapes  when  well  colored, 
Grallize  the  must  until  the  acid  and  flavor  are  reduced  to 
the  proper  amount,  and  thus  produce  a  very  fair,  light- 
red  wine,  palatable  to  most,  and  a  refreshing  and  in- 
vigorating beverage  to  all  ?  I  think  the  latter  is  the  best 
course,  and  the  only  reasonable  one. 

At  that  time  the  must  of  Concord  grapes  will  gener- 
ally weigh  about  65°  to  70°  on  Oechsle's  Scale,  and  the 
Acidimeter  will  indicate  about  6°.  Now  we  make  our 
calculation  as  follows  :  A  normal  must,  to  suit  the 
palate  here,  should  indicate  about  80°,  and  show  4°  on 
the  Acidimeter.  To  reduce  the  acid  to  4°  we  must  add 
one-third  water,  or,  in  other  words,  if  we  have  480  Ibs. 
of  Concord  grapes,  which  would  make  40  gallons 
of  pure  juice,  we  must  add  20  gallons  of  water. 
To  these  20  additional  gallons  of  water,  we  must 
add  40  Ibs.  of  the  best  crushed  sugar,  to  bring  the 
water  up  to  the  ratio  of  normal  must,  80°.  But  we 
have  also  a  discrepancy  of  15°  in  the  must  if  it  indicated 
65°.  To  bring  this  also  up  to  80°  we  must  add  three- 
eighths  pound  of  sugar  to  every  gallon  of  must,  or  15  Ibs. 
to  the  40  gallons.  The  addition  to  480  Ibs.  of  grapes 
would  then  be  as  follows  :  20  gallons  of  water,  55  Ibs.  of 
sugar,  and  no  acid,  making  60  gallons  of  must  of  normal 
proportions,  instead  of  40  of  pure  juice.  These  will  be 
about  the  right  proportions  for  a  pleasant  and  hand- 
some wine,  of  good  color,  pleasant  flavor,  and  not  too 
acid  to  suit  the  general  taste,  with  also  the  proper  pro- 
portion of  tannin,  which  will  be  marketable  sooner,  and 
at  a  much  higher  price,  than  if  we  had  allowed  the  grapes 
to  hang  a  month  longer,  and  then  pressed  the  natural 
must,  which  would,  perhaps,  not  contain  an  excess  of 
acid  then,  but  certainly  an  excess  of  foxy  flavor  and 
tannin. 

Different  grapes  will,  of  course,  require  different  treat- 


226  AMERICAN   GBAPE   GROWING 

ment.  It  is  only  by  experimenting  that  we  can  find  how 
much  each  variety  should  be  Gallized  to  produce  the 
best  possible  wine.  Nor  are  the  grapes  alike  in  all  sea- 
sons, and  one  season's  product  of  the  same  grape  may  re- 
quire different  treatment  than  the  other.  To  illustrate  a 
case  in  point :  While  experimenting  with  varieties,  I 
had,  in  the  summer  of  1866,  enough  of  Rulander  grapes^ 
then  a  new  variety,  to  make  5"  gallons  of  pure  juice, 
which,  when  tried  by  the  saccharometer,  showed  104°. 
This  was  pressed  and  put  into  a  5-gallon  cask.  The 
husks  were  thrown  back  into  the  fermenting  vat,  and  5 
gallons  of  water,  with  15  Ibs.  of  sugar  added,  bringing 
the  water  up  to  100°,  and  fermented  48  hours,  then 
pressed  and  put  into  another  5-gallon  cask.  When  press- 
ing these  my  vintner  thought  that  there  was  too  much 
flavor  and  character  in  the  husks  left  to  be  thrown  away, 
and  he  once  more  added  5  gallons  of  water,  with  15  Ibs.  of 
sugar,  and  fermented  this  three  days  and  three  nights, 
then  pressed,  and  put  into  a  third  5-gallon  cask.  The 
wines  became  clear  at  about  the  same  time,  had  nearly 
the  same  color,  and  when  tested  by  several  connoisseurs, 
they  pronounced  all  good,  but  No.  2  the  smoothest  and 
finest  wine  ;  No.  1  rather  the  fullest,  but  somewhat 
more  astringent,  while  No.  3  was  but  little  inferior  to 
No.  2.  This  verdict  was  given  without  knowing  how 
the  wines  had  been  made.  We  then  mixed  the  three 
wines,  equal  parts,  in  a  tumbler,  and  upon  testing,  found 
the  mixture  a  better  wine  than  either  was  separately. 
The  three,  after  this  trial,  were  put  together,  and  made 
a  wine  like  very  fine  Golden  Sherry,  which  took  the  first 
premium  as  best  light-colored  wine  of  any  variety,  at  the 
Combined  Exhibition  of  the  Longworth  Wine  House  and 
the  American  Grape  Growers'  Association,  at  Cincinnati, 
in  1867,  in  competition  with  over  30  samples  of  the  finest 
Catawbas,  Delawares,  and  Herbemont,  as  well  as  numer- 
ous other  first  premiums  wherever  exhibited.  I  have 


AND   WINE   MAKING. 

made  hundreds  of  such  experiments,  modifying  the  treat- 
ment with  the  character  of  the  variety.  I  know,  there- 
fore, whereof  I  speak.  Of  course  the  above  is  an  ex- 
treme case ;  but  few  varieties  have  so  much  flavor  and 
character  as  the  Eulander,  and  the  treatment  which  pro- 
duced so  fine  a  wine  from  this  grape,  would  have  made  a 
very  flat  "  Maxatawney,"  a  grape  which  has  but  little 
character.  When  making  such  experiments  I  made  it  a 
rule  always  to  keep  some  of  the  pure  juice  by  itself,  for 
comparison,  and  the  tests  were,  therefore,  made  with  the 
greatest  fairness,  and  with  but  one  aim,  that  is,  to  ascer- 
tain how  the  best  possible  wine  could  be  made  from  any 
variety.  Were  I  to  give  more  of  these  experiments  here, 
my  readers  would,  perhaps,  be  even  more  astonished  than 
I  was,  at  the  results  ;  but  facts  are  stubborn,  and  can  not 
be  controverted.  Seeing,  and  in  this  instance,  tasting, 
is  believing,  and  as  I  kept  a  very  careful  record  of  all 
cellar  operations,  there  could  be  no  mistakes. 

I  will  here  quote  one  of  my  first  experiments  made  with 
very  imperfectly  ripened  Catawba  grapes,  made  in  1865, 
when  that  grape  ripened  very  poorly,  on  account  of  mil- 
dew and  rot.  I  found,  on  testing  the  must,  that  it  would 
only  show  from  52°  to  70°,  while  a  normal  Catawba  must 
should  weigh  at  least  80°  in  good  seasons.  My  calcula- 
tions for  making  the  additions  which  I  knew  were  imper- 
atively necessary,  were  based  upon  the  following  reasons  : 
If  normal  must  weighs  80°,  and  this  averages  but  60°, 
there  is  a  deficiency  of  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  the  gal- 
lon of  must.  But  there  should  also  be  an  excess  of  acid 
of  at  least  one-third,  as  the  Catawba  has  a  superabund- 
ance of  acid  in  even  the  most  favorable  seasons.  I  must, 
therefore,  add  at  least  one-third  more  water  to  dilute 
the  acid,  and  to  this  water  add  2  Ibs.  of  sugar  to  each 
gallon,  so  that  the  whole  mixture  will  weigh  80°.  I  did 
so,  fermented  all  on  the  husks  36  hours,  and  the  result 
was  a  very  fine,  golden-colored  Catawba,  which  I  sold 


228  AMERICAN   GKAPE   GKOWING 

before  it  was  six  months  old,  at  the  highest  figures  Ca- 
tawba  wines  were  then  bringing,  to  the  iirst  buyer  who 
came  and  tasted  it. 

As  the  Catawba  constitutes  yet,  to  a  great  extent,  the 
product  of  Eastern  and  Northern  vineyards,  it  may  be 
well  to  give  a  few  more  hints  to  my  readers  on  the  man- 
agement of  Catawba  must.  This  variety  contains,  as 
already  mentioned,  a  very  large  amount  of  acids,  as  well 
as  a  great  deal  of  tannin  and  flavor.  This  must  be  ap- 
parent to  every  one  who  has  ever  eaten  well-ripened  Ca- 
tawba grapes.  It  has  besides  a  very  tough  and  acid 
center  or  pulp,  of  which  every  one  can  convince  himself 
when  eating  even  the  most  thoroughly  ripened  Catawba 
grapes.  The  first  taste  is  delightful,  but  let  him  press 
the  pulp  and  skins  closely  and  he  will  find  that  the  after 
taste  is  sour  and  rough.  Of  course  fermentation  extracts 
all  this,  and  while  the  Catawba  contains  all  the  ingredi- 
ents for  a  palatable  wine,  these  two  are  present  to,a  very 
great  excess,  and  make  the  wine  sour,  astringent,  and 
unpalatable.  What  then  is  necessary  ?  We  must  simply 
add  water  and  sugar,  even  in  the  best  vintages,  to  ameli- 
orate this,  and  much  more  in  inferior  seasons,  and  we 
will  make  better  wines  than  are  now  in  the  market  and 
much  more  wholesome,  than  the  so-called  "  Sweet  Ca- 
tawbas,"  which  are  villainous  compounds  of  unripe  grape 
juice,  raw  spirits,  and  syrup  added  after  fermentation, 
and  afford  an  excuse  for  the  habitual  tippler  to  say  that 
he  drinks  only  wine,  not  whiskey.  It  would  be  better  if 
he  did  take  spirits  so  far  as  the  effects  on  his  system  are 
concerned,  for  such  mixtures  intoxicate  nearly  as  much, 
and  the  deleterious  stuff  they  contain  is  only  glossed 
over  by  the  syrup.  If  Catawba  wine  is  rationally  Gall- 
ized,  it  makes  a  very  pleasant,  high-flavored  wine,  and 
those  who  prefer  to  have  it  still  sweeter,  can  add  sugar 
when  drinking  it,  to  suit  their  taste.  If  this  were  done, 
we  would  have  no  need  of  these  "  Sweet  Catawbas " 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  229 

which  now  disgrace  the  wine  trade  of  the  country,  and 
pure,  light  wine  would  have  a  better  chance  to  become 
the  universal  beverage  of  the  people.  I  do  not  pretend 
to  give  fixed  rules  .to  do  this  ;  even  were  I  competent,  the 
product  varies  too  much  with  the  locality  and  the  season. 
I  merely  attempt  to  show  the  way.  Let  every  one  experi- 
ment, and  note  the  results,  and  he  will  soon  see  how 
far  he  should  go  to  make  the  best  wine,  for  he  should  not 
go  farther.  Let  the  best  product  always  be  his  aim,  not 
quantity. 

The  Concord,  now  so  generally  grown,  is  another  va- 
riety which  is  immensely  improved  by  Gallizing,  and,  as 
before  remarked,  to  make  the  most  palatable  wine,  should 
not  be  allowed  to  get  too  ripe.  When  the  grapes  are 
fully  and  evenly  colored  on  the  bunch,  it  is  time  to 
gather  it,  and  I  would  rather  add  more  sugar,  than  wait 
until  it  is  fully  ripe,  as  then  its  flavor  becomes  too  strong 
and  apparent.  The  same  rule  may  be  applied  to  the 
Martha,  which  is  best  when  fairly  ripe,  but  when  over- 
ripe loses  its  sprightlhiess,  and  becomes  foxy,  while  its 
wine  is,  when  made  in  time,  fully  as  good  as  the  best 
Catawba.  The  addition  of  from  one-third  to  one-half 
water  and  sugar,  or  in  other  words,  from  two- thirds  to 
one  gallon  of  water  and  sugar  to  every  12  Ibs.  of  grapes, 
and  the  whole  mixture  brought  to  80°  on  Oechsle's  Scale, 
fermented  about  36  to  48  hours  on  the  husks,  in  a  tem- 
perature of  75°,  will  generally  make  the  most  palatable 
wine,  from  most  of  the  Labrusca  class  and  their  hybrids. 
The  Goethe,  under  the  same  treatment,  will  make  an  ex- 
cellent white  wine,  sprightly  and  pleasant,  with  just 
enough  of  its  fine  Frontignan  flavor  to  make  it  agreeable. 

Those  who  wish  to  satisfy  themselves,  can  easily  make 
the  experiment,  as  I  did,  cautiously,  and  step  by  step. 
Let  them  make  a  small  quantity  of  pure  juice-wine,  so- 
called,  and  compare  it  with  wines  made  at  the  same 
time,  of  the  same  grapes,  but  Gallized  more  or  less,  and. 


230  AMERICAN"   GKAPE   GKOWING 

keep  a  careful  record  of  the  operation.  This  was  my 
method,  and  I  aimed  always  at  improving  the  quality ; 
so  soon  as  I  found  the  quality  diminished,  I  considered 
it  time  to  stop,  while  so  long  as  the  quality  improved,  I 
thought  it  safe  to  advance.  Consider  each  variety  a 
separate  subject  for  experiment,  it  will  not  do  to  trust 
to  surmises  and  guess  work,  nor  can  any  rule  be  given 
that  will  apply  to  all  varieties  alike. 

So  far  I  have  spoken  mostly  of  the  Labruscas  and  their 
hybrids.  When  we  come  to  the  CBstivalis  class  we  have 
entirely  different  material  to  deal  with,  and  while  we  may, 
and  can,  by  judicious  Gallizing,  improve  some  of  them,  and 
make  them  smoother  and  more  palatable,  yei  with  those 
which  are  used  chiefly  for  medical  purposes  [as  Norton's 
Virginia,  which  has  become  a  great  remedy  for  dysen- 
tery, bowel  complaints,  and  cholera  infantum],  it  will  be 
better  to  let  the  grapes  hang  until  they  are  dead  ripe. 
Stem  them  before  crushing,  add  very  little  or  no  water, 
and  ferment  on  the  husks  for  a  week,  or  even  longer. 
Their  flavor  is  not  objectionable,  and  the  object  here  is, 
to  make  an  astringent  and  heavy  wine,  and  develop  all 
the  medicinal  qualities  which  that  grape  possesses  in 
such  an  eminent  degree.  To  make  simply  a  good  Claret 
from  it,  of  course  it  can  be  Gallized,  and  will  make  even 
a  more  pleasant  wine  for  every  day  use.  This  class, 
however,  also  differs  as  much  in  its  varieties  as  the  La- 
Brusca.  I  have  already  cited  an  example  of  the  Rulander, 
which  has  a  decided  Sherry  flavor.  The  Hermann,  a 
seedling  of  the  Norton's,  is  another  with  a  strong  Sherry 
character,  so  marked  that  the  pure  juice  has  too  strong  a 
flavor,  yet  when  properly  Gallized  it  makes  a  delightful 
deep-yellow  wine,  equal  to  any  Golden  Sherry,  and  the 
white  seedling  from  it  seems  to  be  a  still  greater  improve- 
ment, as  it  is  much  more  delicate  and  juicy  than  its 
parent.  And  here  let  me  make  a  prediction,  to  which 
long  years  of  careful  observation  have  led  me,  and  whicl* 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  231 

is  shared  by  all  of  the  prominent  grape-growers  of  the 
State,  so  far  as  I  know.  It  is  this,  that  the  grape-grow- 
ers of  the  State,  if  they  turn  their  attention  chiefly  to 
the  best  of  the  cestivalis,  the  Cynthiana,  Norton's  Vir- 
ginia, JSTeosho,  and  others,  which  have  not  been  so  fully 
tried,  will,  at  no  distant  day,  excel  the  products  of  the 
choicest  vineyards  of  the  European  Continent,  and  may 
safely  challenge  the  world  in  the  production  of  the 
choicest  Burgundies,  Clarets,  and  Sherries,  and  the 
sooner  we  turn  our  attention  to  them  the  better.  Cali- 
fornia, and  even  the  East,  may  excel  us  in  the  quantity, 
and  rival  us  in  the  quality  of  white  wines,  but  from  a-H 
the  information  I  can  obtain,  they  can  not  come  near  to 
our  red  wines,  which  are  even  now  the  equals  of  the 
best  wines  of  Burgundy.  This  is  our  proper  field,  and 
the  sooner  we  concentrate  our  energies  upon  it,  the  better 
will  it  be  for  us.  They  are,  at  the  same  time,  Phylloxera- 
proof,  and  we  need  not  fear  that  they  will  "  go  back  " 
upon  us. 

In  the  cordifolia  we  have  still  another  material.  The 
grapes  of  this  class  may  be  said  to  occupy  a  position  be- 
tween the  Labruscas  and  the  c&stivalis  class.  Nearly  all 
contain  considerable  acid,  and  an  abundance  of  flavor, 
and  are  much  improved  by  judicious  Gallizing ;  but  as 
their  skin  and  pulp  is  tender,  they  need  not  be  fermented 
on  the  husks  for  any  length  of  time.  Twenty-four  hours 
of  lively  fermentation  will  generally  be  sufficient  for  the 
Elvira,  Taylor,  and  Clinton.  They  promise  to  furnish 
us  another  class  of  wines,  and  as  they  are  also  Phylloxera- 
proof,  we  may  consider  these  two  classes  as  the  founda- 
tion of  future  grape  growing.  We  have  but  just  com- 
menced experimenting  with  this  class,  but  the  great 
success  achieved  by  Mr.  Rommel  and  others  justify  the 
most  sanguine  hopes.  I  was  particularly  struck  with 
some  wines  shown  me  by  Mr.  James  Ricketts,  from  sev- 
eral Clinton  seedlings,  foremost  among  which  are  the 


232  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

Bacchus  and  Ariadne.  They  show  a  new  class  of  wines, 
light  red  in  color,  of  great  body,  and  very  peculiar  flavor. 
Should  these  varieties  prove  to  be  adapted  to  more  gen- 
eral culture,  we  may  expect  some  remarkable  wines  from 
them. 

Of  course  these  are  only  general  hints,  which  are  cal- 
culated to  show  my  wine-making  friends  the  way  they 
must  go,  to  make  palatable  and  wholesome  wines.  I 
shall  not  attempt  to  go  into  details  about  varieties,  as 
even  these  diifer  so  much  in  different  localities  that  no 
rules  for  their  treatment  could  be  given  to  apply  in  all 
cases.  Nor  do  I  pretend  to  be  perfect,  but  I  am  convinced 
more  and  more  every  day,  how  little  I  yet  know,  and 
how  much  I  have  to  learn. 

In  all  my  experiments  I  aimed  to  come  as  near  the 
normal  must  of  the  variety  I  experimented  with  as  possi^ 
ble,  in  the  specific  gravity  of  the  water  and  must,  when 
mixed.  I  have  no  doubt  that  we  also  have  much  to  learn 
yet  in  the  judicious  mixing  of  several  kinds  of  grapes. 
Experiments  in  that  line  have  already  shown  astonishing 
results,  and  the  art  of  blending  and  cutting  wines,  so 
well  understood  and  practised  in  the  best  cellars  of  Eu- 
rope, is  yet  in  its  infancy  here,  but  will,  no  doubt,  have 
a  great  influence  upon  our  future  products.  But  this 
art  can  only  be  based  upon  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the 
characteristics  of  each  individual  variety,  and  he  who 
undertakes  the  task  must  bring  to  it  a  peculiar  talent 
and  highly  developed  taste,  as  well  as  the  nicest  discrimi- 
nation of  the  traits  of  each  variety.  If  our  grape  growing 
and  wine  making  had  the  experience  of  several  centuries 
to  look  back  upon,  we  could  base  our  operations  upon 
certain  knowledge.  Now  we  are  feeling  our  way.  The 
pioneers  who  first  made  the  clearings  in  our  woods, 
greatly  rejoiced  when  they  could  eat  the  first  hoe-cake 
from  the  corn  their  industry  had  planted  in  the.  wilder- 
ness, and  still  more  enjoyed  the  rolls  made  of  their  first 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  233 

wheat.  Like  them  are  we  overjoyed  at  what  we  have 
achieved,  and  know  that  the  grape,  so  lately  but  the 
child  of  these  same  forests,  is  susceptible  of  as  much  im- 
provement and  as  great  a  change,  as  that  which  converted 
the  old  time  clearing,  with  its  simple  log  cabin,  into  the 
pleasant  homestead  with  its  smiling  and  tasteful  lawn  and 
orchard,  rich  with  golden  fruits.  And  those  who  intend 
to  be  the  winners  in  this  race,  must  have  the  pluck  and 
perseverance  of  the  old  frontier  pioneers,  hoping  always, 
even  in  the  most  gloomy  times,  for  brighter  days,  and 
never  doubting  of  the  end. 

Dr.  Gall  recommended  grape  sugar  as  the  best  to  be 
used  for  Gallizing.  This  is  made  from  potato  starch, 
but  all  the  samples  I  have  yet  tried  are  not  pure  enough, 
and  leave  an  unpleasant,  bitter  taste  in  the  wine.  I 
have,  therefore,  used  the  best  and  purest  cane  sugar, 
and  as  it  also  dissolves  more  readily  in  water,  I  prefer  it, 
and  have  found  it  to  answer  every  purpose.  I  have  lately 
tasted  a  sugar  made  from  the  Minnesota  or  Early  Amber 
cane,  which  seems  to  be  well  adapted  to  the  purpose,  and 
if  the  production  of  its  sugar  assumes  the  dimensions 
it  now  promises,  we  may  have  an  important  advantage 
over  our  former  method,  in  a  cheaper  and  better 
article  of  sugar.  The  best  cane  sugar  when  dissolved 
in  water  in  the  proportion  of  2  Ibs.  of  sugar  to  the  gallon, 
will  show  upon  the  scale  about  80°.  In  making  additions 
to  Catawba,  Goethe,  Martha,  Elvira,  and  all  the  lighter 
wines,  it  takes  about  2  Ibs.  of  sugar  to  the  gallon  of 
water,  to  produce  the  weight  of  normal  must  of  these  va- 
rieties. For  Norton's  Virginia,  Cynthiana,  Rulander,  and 
all  the  heavier  wines,  it  will  take,  at  least,  21/,  Ibs.  of 
sugar  to  the  gallon  of  water,  as  their  normal  must  ranges 
from  100°  to  110°,  and  sometimes  120°,  in  the  product 
of  the  best  seasons. 

As  a  general  rule  it  may  be  assumed,  however,  •  that 
our  native  grapes,  with  their  strong  flavor  and  abundance 


234  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

of  tannin  and  coloring  matter,  will  admit,  nay,  require, 
much  more  Gallizing  than  the  more  delicate  and  finer 
flavored  grapes  of  Europe.  How  far  we  can  go  with  each 
variety  I  do  not  presume  to  say,  and  only  experience  can 
safely  guide  us  here.  It  must  be  apparent  to  every  one 
who  is  ever  so  slightly  acquainted  with  wine  making,  how 
widely  different  the  varieties  are  in  their  characteristics 
and  constituents.  I  have  tried  only  to  give  an  out- 
line of  the  necessary  operations,  as  well  as  the  prin- 
ciples underlying  the  science  of  wine  making,  have 
quoted  facts,  only  so  far  as  I  have  become  familiar  with 
them  through  long  practice  and  observation.  No  one 
can  be  better  convinced  than  I  am,  how  much  we  have 
yet  to  learn,  and  how  wide  the  field  that  lies  before  us. 
I  have  been  severely  censured  for  the  open  advocacy  of  the 
method  of  Dr.  Gall,  even  by  those  who  have  practised  it  as 
zealously  and  not  always  confined  themselves  as  much  to 
its  true  limits  as  I  have  tried  to  do.  Many  of  our  best 
wine-makers  think  that  we  should  keep  the  knowledge  we 
have  gained  to  ourselves,  and  profit  by  it  in  secret,  in- 
stead of  openly  facing  a  prejudice  which  we  know  to  exist. 
But  it  has  always  been  a  deep-seated  conviction  with  me 
that  knowledge,  like  God's  sun,  should  be  the  common 
property  of  all ;  that  it  is  a  duty  every  citizen  owes  to  the 
community  in  which  he  lives,  to  impart  freely  what  he 
may  know,  to  every  one.  Only  thus  can  we  progress  in 
this  fast  age,  where  progress  is  the  watchword.  Truth 
and  justice  need  never  fear  the  light,  they  can  only  gain 
by  close  investigation. 

And  here  let  us  look  at  the  probable  effects  these 
methods  of  improvement  are  likely  to  have  upon  grape 
culture,  and  ask  ourselves  :  Is  there  anything  repre- 
hensible in  them,  any  reason  why  they  should  not  be- 
come generally  known  ?  I  think  the  answer  is  easily 
found,  Gallized  wines  contain  nothing,  which  fermented 
grape  juice,  in  its  purest  and  most  perfect  condition,  does 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  235 

not  also  contain.  They  are,  therefore,  as  pure  as  any 
grape  juice  can  be,  with  the  consideration  in  their  favor, 
that  they  contain  all  the  ingredients  in  their  proper  pro- 
portion. 

It  is  a  matter  of  course  that  careless  and  slovenly  work- 
ers have  failed,  and  will  continue  to  fail,  in  making  good 
wine  by  this,  or  any  other  method,  but  this  cannot  be 
used  as  an  argument  against  it.  To  make  a  good  article 
the  peculiarities  of  each  variety  must  be  closely  studied, 
and  we  must  not  think  that  water  and  sugar  will  ac- 
complish everything.  Its  use  should  be  limited,  and  be- 
comes abuse  as  soon  as  it  oversteps  that  limit. 

But  I  will  hope  that  I  have  contributed  my  mite  to  the 
fund  of  universal  knowledge,  and  if  this  little  volume 
only  aids  every  farmer  in  the  land,  who  can  grow  grapes, 
to  make  a  few  barrels  of  pure,  light  wine  for  family  use, 
to  take  the  place  of  poor  whiskey  and  brandy,  now  the 
bane  and  curse  of  so  many  households,  I  am  more  than 
repaid  for  the  labor  of  many  a  lonely  early  morning  hour 
it  has  cost  me.  Mine  has  been  an  incessantly  busy  life, 
and  the  time  for  these  scribblings  has  been  stolen  mostly 
from  the  "  small,  still  hours."  I  know  of  no  holidays, 
and  have  often  had  to  force  exhausted  nature  to  the 
task.  This  must  be  my  excuse  for  its  many  imperfec- 
tions. But  I  flatter  myself  that  I  am  not  entirely  mis- 
taken, when  I  think  I  send  it  on  a  temperance  mission, 
perhaps  more  true  and,  therefore,  more  effective  than  any 
Murphy  movement.  I  have  always  looked  upon  the  gen- 
eral use  of  pure,  light  wine  as  the  best  temperance  mea- 
sure that  could  be  adopted.  A  glass  of  wine,  used  early 
in  the  morning,  I  have  found  to  be  the  best  preventive 
against  malaria,  and  nothing  revives  the  sinking  energies 
of  the  worn  out  laborer  better  during  a  hot  summer  day, 
as  I  know  from  actual  experience.  I  have  known  it  to 
save  life  in  dangerous  diseases,  and  could  cite  many  in- 
stances did  time  and  space  permit. 


236  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

Let  us  all  then  further  the  cause  of  grape-culture. 
The  laborer  by  producing  fruit,  the  mechanic  by  inven- 
tions, the  scientist  by  improving  our  methods,  the  law- 
giver by  wise  laws  in  its  favor,  and  all  others  by  using  its 
products  in  moderation,  as  one  of  the  best  gifts  from  the 
fountain  of  all  that  is  good,  pure,  and  beautiful. 


CHAPTER    XLVII. 

WINE    MAKING    RENDERED    EAST. 

Perhaps  it  may  have  seemed  as  if  I  was  only  writing 
for  the  benefit  of  those  who  can  follow  grape  growing  and 
wine  making  on  a  larger  scale,  with  abundant  means  at 
their  command,  to  build  commodious  cellars,  plant  large 
vineyards,  and  hire  laborers  to  do  the  work.  This  is  not 
the  case,  however.  If  I  have  given  the  outlines  of 
larger  operations  it  is  because  our  object  should  always 
be  to  attain  perfection  in  everything  ;  I  have  never  for  a 
moment  lost  sight  of  the  interests  of  those,  who,  like 
myself,  have  to  commence  at  the  lowest  round  of  the 
ladder,  who  have  to  make  a  small  beginning,  and  work 
their  way  up  through  untold  difficulties.  There  is  not 
an  operation  in  the  vineyard,  from  the  clearing  of  the 
unbroken  forest  and  prairie,  to  the  finishing  touch  given 
to  the  wine  at  its  last  racking,  which  I  have  not  performed 
and  am  not  thoroughly  familiar  with,  and  I  can,  there- 
fore, fully  sympathize  with  the  poor  laborer,  who  has 
nothing  but  his  industrious  hands,  and  an  honest  in- 
tention to  succeed. 

While  it  may  hardly  be  advisable  now,  in  these  days  of 
low  prices  and  light  demand  for  wine,  to  begin  grape 
growing  as  a  means  of  support,  with  the  hope  of  realiz- 
ing a  handsome  income  from  it  in  the  course  of  a  few 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  237 

years,  yet  there  is  no  reason  why  every  farmer  should  not 
have  a  small  vineyard,  grow  his  own  grapes,  and  make 
his  barrel  or  two  of  wine,  or  why  every  owner  of  a  garden 
should  be  without  enough  grapes  for  the  use  of  the 
family. 

Grape-vines  of  the  more  common  varieties  are  very  cheap 
now,  and  an  outlay  of  $5  to  $10  will  buy  one  hundred  to 
two  hundred  vines — enough  to  make  a  start  with.  Plant 
these,  at  any  rate,  if  you  cannot  do  more,  and  grow  your 
own  vines  hereafter  to  enlarge  your  vineyard.  Wire  for 
trellis  is  also  very  cheap  now,  and  it  is  not  needed  the 
first  year  or  two.  A  few  hundred  vines  can  be  easily 
kept  in  order  before  breakfast ;  let  the  children  help  you, 
they  can  do  a  great  deal  of  the  lighter  work,  and  will 
learn  to  take  a  delight  in  it.  And  when  your  first  crop 
of  grapes  ripens,  and  you  can  make-  a  few  barrels  of  wine, 
if  you  have  no  press  or  commodious  cellar,  you  can  find  a 
cider  press  somewhere,  and  room  in  the  cellar  of  one  of  your 
neighbors  to  store  it.  One  of  our  most  successful  wine- 
growers commenced  his  operations  with  a  simple  hole  in 
the  ground,  dug  under  his  house,  and  his  first  wine-press 
was  merely  a  large  beam,  let  into  a  tree,  which  acted  as  a 
lever  upon  the  grapes,  with  a  press  bed,  also  of  his  own 
making.  His  vineyard  and  wine  cellars  are  now  among 
the  best  in  the  county,  and  although  he  no  longer  lives 
to  enjoy  it,  his  family  are  left  in  affluent  circumstances, 
and  grape  growing  alone  has  made  them  wealthy.  Be- 
sides, we  have  got  down  to  the  lowest  prices,  and  as  the 
prospects  for  the  grape-growers  of  the  Old  World,  and 
even  of  California,  darken  on  account  of  the  Phylloxera, 
our  own  begin  to  brighten.  We  know  that  we  have 
something  we  can  depend  upon,  and  feel  that  better 
days  will  come  again  for  the  grape-growers  and  wine- 
makers  of  the  country. 

Of  course  it  is  not  advisable  to  keep  the  wine  over 
summer  in  an  indifferent  cellar,  but  if  it  is  good,  as  it 


238  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

ought  to  be,  you  can  easily  dispose  of  it  as  soon  as  clear. 
Or  you  can  dispose  of  your  grapes,  if  you  can  not  or  will 
not  make  them  into  wine,  to  some  neighbor,  or  market 
them  yourself.  Nearly  all  of  our  small  country  towns 
afford  a  ready  market  for  a  small  quantity,  indeed  often 
a  better  one  than  do  the  large  cities. 

Another  way  to  make  grape  growing  and  wine  making 
easy,  is  to  form  grape  and  fruit  colonies.  There  are  lo- 
cations enough  in  all  the  States  of  the  Union,  where  suit- 
able lands  for  this  purpose  can  be  had  cheap.  The  ad- 
vantages of  such  colonies  can  be  easily  seen.  If  each  one 
has  a  small  piece  of  suitable  land  (and  he  does  not  need  a 
large  tract  for  this  business),  they  can  assist  each  other  in 
plowing  and  sub-soiling,  and  will  thus  be  able  to  do  with 
fewer  animals,  by  preparing  the  soil  first  for  one,  then  for 
the  other,  the  ravages  of  birds  and  insects  will  hardly  be 
felt,  the  neighbors  can  join  together  in  building  a  cellar, 
where  all  can  store  their  wine,  and  of  which  one  can  take 
the  management.  They  can  market  their  product  easier, 
obtain  better  prices,  and  lower  rates  of  transportation  to 
large  cities,  than  single  individuals,  and  also  make  a  bet- 
ter and  more  uniform  product. 

There  are  thousands  of  acres  of  land  well  adapted  for 
the  purpose,  in  Missouri  and  other  States,  which  could  be 
had  at  very  low  prices,  where  the  virgin  soil  waits  only  the 
bidding  of  intelligent  and  combined  labor,  to  bring  forth 
the  richest  fruits.  There  is  room  for  thousands — may  it 
soon  be  filled  with  willing  hearts  and  hands  to  undertake 
the  task. 

If  our  hopes  are  not  so  sanguine,  the  immediate  gains 
not  as  great,  as  they  were  fifteen  years  ago — yet  we  have  a 
surer  basis  to  work  upon  than  at  that  time,  and  our  so- 
bered expectations  are  more  apt  to  be  realized,  and  even 
excelled,  than  then.  If  we  aim  at  the  best  products  only, 
rather  than  at  quantity,  we  are  not  so  likely  to  overstock 
the  market,  and  the  increased  prices  we  obtain  will  more 


AND   WIXE   MAKING.  239 

than  make  up  for  it.  It  is  much  easier  to  make  a  start, 
labor  is  cheaper,  vines  are  lower,  and  all  the  material  we 
use,  as  well  as  the  land,  is  lower,  and  it  will  be  safe  to 
assume  that  it  will  not  cost  half  as  much  to  obtain  a 
start  now  as  then. 

We  will  have  to  work  early  and  late,  however,  with 
head  and  hands,  for  it  is  not  an  easy  task  upon  which  the 
grape-grower  enters.  It  is  not  the  life  of  a  sluggard,  nor 
the  romantic  idyl  of  poetic  leisure.  But  what  of  that  ? 
Our  task  is  the  production  of  one  of  God's  noblest  gifts 
to  man,  and  we  will  follow  it  with  hopeful  hearts,  in  the 
confidence  that  He  will  send  His  sunshine  as  well  as  His 
showers,  to  gladden  our  hearts  and  to  further  our  work, 
until  it  is  crowned  by  a  rich  harvest  of  purple  and  golden 
clusters,  and  their  juice  is  changed  into  "  Wine  that 
maketh  glad  the  heart  of  man." 


240  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

CHAPTER    XLVIII. 

SPECIES  USED  FOR  STOCKS  AND  THEIR  PREPARATION. 

Grape  culture  in  the  Golden  State  differs  so  essentially 
from  that  in  Missouri  and  the  East,  that  practices  fol- 
lowed there  are  inadmissible  here,  or  can  only  be  applied 
with  essential  modifications.  The  innumerable  varieties 
of  Vitis  vinifera,  or  Asiatic  grape,  form  the  leading  class 
of  grapes  here,  and  succeed  admirably  in  the  moderate 
climate  and  dry  summers  of  California.  This  makes  an 
addition  to  the  classification  of  vines  necessary,  espe- 
cially as  other  native  species  have  become  better  known, 
and  promise  to  become  important  factors  as  stocks,  in 
their  resistance  to  Phylloxera,  to  which  all  the  varieties 
of  V.  vinifera  succumb.  A  portion  of  the  native  species 
of  the  vine  are  described  on  page  12  and  the  following 
pages  ;  what  is  given  here  is  supplementary  to  that. 

VITIS  YINIFERA,  Linnaeus  (Asiatic  or  European  grape). 
— Leaves  more  or  less  lobed  and  serrated,  smooth  and 
glossy  on  the  upper  side,  generally  more  delicate  in  tex- 
ture than  the  native  American  species;  the  wood  more 
stocky,  and  shorter-jointed.  The  fruit  differs  so  much 
in  the  varieties  that  it  would  be  useless  to  attempt  a  de- 
scription here.  Its  general  characteristics  are,  however, 
a  thin  skin,  a  greater  abundance  of  juice,  and  in  the 
fleshy  varieties  a  crackling  texture  of  the  flesh,  without 
the  tough  and  slimy  pulp  of  the  Labrusca. 

VITIS  RUPESTRIS,  Scheele  (Bush  Grape).— Vine  with 
very  short  joints  and  numerous  branches,  growing  more 
like  a  bush  or  shrub  than  a  vine,  with  small,  heart-shaped, 
shining  leaves,  smooth  on  both  sides.  Berry  small,  mostly 
black  (although  white  varieties  have  been  found),  juicy, 
without  pulp;  bunch  small,  seldom  containing  more  than 
a  dozen  berries.  A  native  of  Southern  Missouri,  Arkan- 


°> 

UNIVERSITY 


AND   WINE   MAKING. 

sas,  and  Texas,  where  it  grows  on  dry,  flinty  hillsides, 
either  supporting  itself  or  climbing  over  low  bushes.  Ib 
has  very  firm,  shining,  thin  roots,  and  has  lately  attract- 
ed great  attention  in  France  as  a  resistant  stock  for 
grafting.  It  makes  a  good,  deep-colored  wine,  but  will 
hardly  afford  enough  to  be  profitable  as  a  direct  pro- 
ducer. Propagates  readily  from  cuttings. 

VITIS  CALIFORNICA,  Bentham  (California  Grape).— 
This  is  found  everywhere  throughout  the  State,  along  the 
ravines  and  water  courses,  seldom  on  dry  ground.  It  is 
a  strong,  vigorous  grower,  clambering  to  the  tops  of 
trees  and  trailing  along  the  ground.  Wood  smooth, 
light-brown,  long  and  thin,  but  short-jointed  ;  leaves 
heart-shaped,  downy  on  both  sides,  though  much  more 
so  on  the  lower;  young  shoots  and  leaves  of  a  peculiar 
whitish  tinge  ;  tendrils  numerous,  reddish.  Bunch  long 
and  loose;  berries  small,  round,  black;  roots  very  numer- 
ous and  strong,  but  thick,  and  soft  in  texture,  with  a 
tendency  to  go  down  perpendicularly.  Eeports  are  con- 
flicting about  its  propagation  from  cuttings  ;  some  say  it 
grows  easily,  others  claim  that  it  strikes  root  with  diffi- 
culty. Its  resistant  qualities  do  not  appear  to  be  fully 
determined  ;  its  strong  growth  is  in  its  favor,  while  the 
softness  of  its  roots  are  an  unfavorable  indication. 

Vms  ARIZONICA,  Engelmann  (Arizona  Vine).  —  This 
differs  very  much  from  the  preceding  in  its  habit  and 
general  appearance.  While  the  California  vine  trails  over 
the  ground,  the  Arizona  is  a  very  upright  grower.  Woocl 
smooth,  yellowish,  slender,  and  long-jointed  ;  leaves, 
heart-shaped,  shining,  and  smooth  on  both  sides.  The 
roots  are  not  so  soft  as  those  of  the  California  grape,  re- 
sembling those  of  the  riparia,  though  not  quite  so  firm. 
I  have  not  seen  the  fruit,  but  creditable  samples  of  wine 
have  been  made  of  it.  Its  chief  value  will  be  as  a  resist- 
ant grafting  stock,  although  its  value  for  that  purpose  is 
not  yet  fullv  established. 
11 


24:2  AMERICAN    GRAPE   GROWING 

VITIS  CANDICANS,  Engelmann  (Mustang  Grape  of 
Texas). — I  have  not  observed  this  vine  in  its  native  habi- 
tat, but  am  told  that  it  is  a  strong  grower,  climbing  to 
the  tops  of  the  tallest  trees.  Leaves  deeply  lobed,  almost 
like  those  of  a  watermelon,  downy  above  and  below, 
though  more  so  on  the  lower  side ;  growth  long  and 
straggling.  Said  to  be  fully  resistant  to  phylloxera,  but 
difficult  to  propagate  from  cuttings. 

All  of  these  four  species  grow  readily  from  seeds,  as 
does  the  riparia.  For  grafting  stock,  my  preference 
would  be  riparia  and  rupestris,  as  they  are  strong  grow- 
ers, and  seem  to  nourish  in  all  kinds  of  soil. 

PROPAGATION. 

All  that  has  been  said  in  the  first  part  of  the  book  will 
also  apply  here,  with  perhaps  some  modifications  to 
suit  the  soil  and  climate.  Most  of  the  vineyards  of 
mnifera  thus  far  planted,  were  started  directly  with  cut- 
tings, set  in  early  spring.  As  all  the  varieties  of  this 
grow  very  readily  from  cuttings,  this  seemed  to  be 
the  easiest  and  cheapest  mode,  and  was  universally  fol- 
lowed, although  the  cuttings  used  varied  in  length  from 
fifteen  to  thirty  inches,  according  to  the  practice  followed 
by  the  different  planters.  A  great  many,  however,  begin 
to  prefer  rooted  vines,  started  in  a  nursery,  as  they  make 
a  more  even  stand,  and  also  produce  sooner. 

I  would  not  advise  any  one,  however,  with  the  ravages 
of  the  phylloxera  in  some  parts  of  the  State  before  his 
eyes,  to  use  anything  but  resistant  vines  for  stocks, 
and  to  graft  these  afterwards,  if  desired,  with  the 
best  vinifera  varieties.  For  the  purpose,  I  would  obtain 
cuttings  of  either  riparia  or  rupestris,  from  ten  to 
twelve  inches  long,  and  plant  them  in  the  nursery  for 
one  year,  where  they  will  make  good,  stocky  plants,  to  be 
transferred  to  the  vineyard  the  next  year,  and  grafted  the 
second  or  third  spring,  according  to  their  strength.  The 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  243 

cost  will  but  be  a  trifle  more,  as  good  cuttings  of  these 
varieties  can  be  obtained,  grown  in  the  State,  for  about 
eight  dollars  per  thousand,  and  the  vines  will  pay  for  the 
additional  trouble  of  grafting,  by  their  increased  yield 
and  greater  vigor.  The  seeds  of  the  riparia  and  rupestris, 
if  sown  in  nursery  rows,  will  vegetate  readily,  and  make 
good  plants,  although  not  so  strong  as  the  cuttings. 

THE  NURSERY. 

For  the  nursery  select  a  good,  fertile  piece  of  land,  with 
deep,  rather  sandy  soil,  if  it  can  be  had.  Plow  deeply 
in  fall  or  early  winter,  as  soon  as  the  first  rains  have 
fully  saturated  the  soil,  and  plow  again  early  in  spring, 
just  before  planting.  The  deeper  the  ground  is  plowed, 
the  better  will  it  hold  moisture,  and  I  have  found,  by 
experience,  that  pulverizing  the  soil  wall,  making  it  deep 
and  mellow,  and  frequently  stirring  it  during  the  sum- 
mer, to  keep  it  porous,  is  more  successful  than  irriga- 
tion, and  raises  better  and  more  hardy  plants.  The  cut- 
tings need  uniform  warmth  as  well  as  moisture,  and  irri- 
gation has  a  tendency  to  cool  the  ground  at  the  base  of  the 
cuttings  too  much.  These  sudden  changes  from  warm 
to  cold,  are  anything  but  beneficial  to  the  young  plant 
in  its  most  tender  period.  This  treatment  will  apply  to 
all  cuttings,  Asiatic  or  American,  and  also  to  seedlings. 
For  the  nursery  I  prefer  the  cuttings  even  shorter  than 
usual,  say  between  eight  and  ten  inches  long,  as  they 
can  be  planted  perpendicularly,  and  will  make  strong- 
er roots  at  the  base  than  longer  cuttings,  which  will 
make  numerous  weak  roots  at  every  joint.  Cuttings,  as 
well  as  seeds,  are  generally  planted  in  March  or  April, 
when  the  ground  has  become  warm,  and  will  work  well. 
Cuttings  can  be  made  at  any  time  during  the  winter,  as 
soon  as  the  wood  is  fully  ripened,  and  kept  and  planted 
as  described  in  the  first  part  of  this  book,  Chapter  III.  I 
have  found  it  very  convenient  to  make  the  rows  three 


244  AMERICAN   *RAPE    GROWING 

and  a  half  feet  apart,  placing  the  cuttings  but  an  inch 
apart  in  the  rows.  A  horse  cultivator,  with  the  centre 
tooth  taken  out,  is  to  be  run  on  both  sides  of  the  rows, 
ridging  up  slightly  to  the  cuttings,  and  this  should  be 
repeated  once  a  week  during  May,  June,  and  July. 

As  grafting  should  be  done  in  the  vineyard,  I  will  give 
the  most  practical  method  there. 


CHAPTER    XLIX. 

THE  VINEYARD.— LOCATION,  SOIL,  AND  PREPARATION. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  other  country  which  presents  a 
greater  diversity  of  soils  and  situations  than  this  State 
does,  and  this  is  often  seen  in  localities  not  more  than 
fifty  or  a  hundred  feet  apart.  On  the  same  hillside,  a 
tough  clay,  commonly  called  "adobe"  here,  may  change 
into  white  alkali  soil  within  a  hundred  feet,  which  in  its 
turn  may  give  place  to  loose,  stony  soil,  and  this  again  to 
red,  volcanic  soil,  which  contains  a  good  deal  of  iron.  The 
valleys  of  Northern  California  are  subject  to  late  frosts 
in  early  spring,  and  early  frosts  in  fall,  but  even  these  gen- 
erally follow  certain  low  streaks,  where  the  soil  is  not  so 
well  drained  ;  so  that  one  side  of  the  valley  may  be  com- 
paratively exempt  from  frosts,  while  the  other  suffers  very 
frequently.  The  valleys  have  generally  the  richest  and 
most  friable  soil,  produce  the  heaviest  crops,  and  they 
are  also  easier  of  cultivation ;  while  the  hillsides,  with 
proper  soil,  will  produce  finer  quality,  though  less  in 
quantity,  and  are  more  secure  from  frost. 

On  the  hillsides,  my  choice  would  be  the  side  of  hills 
sloping  towards  the  east  and  south,  as  they  are  more 
sheltered  from  destructive  winds,  and  not  so  exposed  to 
the  afternoon  sun,  which  is  apt  to  scald  the  grapes.  Of 
hillside  soils,  my  first  choice  would  be,  especially  for  red 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  245 

wines,  the  red  volcanic  soil,  or  black  soil  mixed  with  sand 
and  small  stones.  Such  a  soil  will  drain  and  work  well 
without  washing,  is  warm,  and  will  give  wines  of  deep 
color,  body,  and  rich  in  tannin.  Next  to  this  would 
come  the  clay,  or  adobe  soil,  for,  although  difficult  to 
work,  and  needing  constant  stirring  in  summer  to  keep 
the  surface  mellow,  it  is  very  fertile,  and  will  produce 
wines  of  good  quality  in  abundance,  if  well  worked.  My 
third  choice  would  be  a  stony  soil,  loose  and  friable, 
which  generally  produces  well  also,  after  the  vines  have 
become  established.  The  poorest  of  all  our  hill  lands  is  the 
white,  alkali  coil,  which  does  not  seem  to  suit  vines  at  all, 
as  they  grow  very  slowly;  therefore  I  would  not  have  any 
of  this  soil  if  I  could  help  it.  But,  unfortunately,  we 
find  more  or  less  of  it  in  all  locations,  and  can  hardly 
avoid  it  altogether.  The  best  we  can  do  is,  to  look  out 
that  there  is  not  too  much  of  it.  In  choosing  a  location, 
the  purchaser  should  also  see  that  his  soil  is  of  sufficient 
depth,  at  least  two  or  three  feet  above  the  bed  rock,  so 
that  the  roots  of  the  vine  can  find  moisture  in  our  dry 
summers,  which  they  can  only  do  when  the  soil  is  deep 
enough.  Large  oaks,  intermingled  with  mountain  laurel 
and  hazel  undergrowth,  mixed  with  hillside  ferns,  are 
generally  indications  of  a  soil  well  adapted  to  the  grape. 
In  the  valleys,  guard  against  frosty  locations,  which  I 
would  not  have  under  any  consideration.  It  is  too  dis- 
couraging to  see  the  promise  of  a  bountiful  crop  swept 
away  by  the  frosts  of  a  single  night,  and  to  live  in  con- 
stant dread  that  this  may  happen. 

Very  steep  hillsides,  though  they  may  produce  good 
wines,  are  very  difficult  to  cultivate,  and  liable  to  wash ; 
they  should  therefore  also  be  avoided. 

PREPARATION  OF  THE  GROUND. 

Having  first  cleared  the  ground  of  all  obstacles,  stumps, 
trees,  stones,  etc.,  it  should  bo  plowed  as  deep  as  possi- 


246  AMERICAN    GRAPE   GROWING 

ble  with  a  good  four-horse  team  and  plow,  following  with 
a  subsoil  plow  in  the  same  furrow.  What  has  been  said 
on  preparing  the  soil,  in  the  first  part  of  the  book,  will 
also  apply  here.  The  ground  cannot  be  prepared  too 
well ;  what  is  worth  doing  at  all,  is  worth  doing  well. 

For  planting,  the  ground  is  generally  laid  off  in  two- 
acre  blocks  ;  if  the  vines  are  planted  eight  by  eight  feet, 
the  usual  distance,  the  blocks  contain  forty-eight  vines 
in  the  rows  lengthwise  by  twenty-four  vines  crosswise, 
with  alleys  or  avenues  sixteen  feet  wide  between, 
making  five  hundred  and  seventy-six  vines  to  the 
acre.  Having  harrowed  and  rolled  the  ground  well, 
to  give  it  a  smooth  surface,  we  are  ready  for 
marking.  Small  stakes  of  redwood,  fifteen  inches  long 
by  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  are  used  for  the  purpose. 
Establish  the  four  outside  lines  of  the  block  first,  by 
driving  in  stakes  every  eight  feet,  then  stretch  one 
line  lengthwise,  and  another  line  across,  with  an  active 
boy  at  each  end  to  move  the  line  to  the  next  stake, 
one  puts  down  the  marks  where  the  two  lines  cross  each 
other.  If  you  have  a  line  at  each  side  of  the  block, 
and  another  man,  the  work  can  be  done  still  quicker,  as 
two  rows  can  be  marked  at  the  same  time. 

Of  course,  the  distance  between  the  vines  can  be 
changed  ad  libitum,  but  I  find  eight  feet  a  very  conven- 
ient distance,  giving  ample  room  for  cultivation  without 
crowding  the  vines  too  much. 

We  can  now  proceed  to  planting.  As  this  has  already 
been  described  in  the  first  part  of  the  book,  I  need  not 
dwell  on  it  very  long.  Should  cuttings,  however,  be 
planted,  instead  of  rooted  vines,  I  would  advise  planting 
with  a  spade  instead  of  a  crowbar,  as  is  very  often  done. 
The  iron  bar  may  answer  in  sandy  soil,  where  the  sand 
will  naturally  settle  around  the  base  of  the  cutting  with 
the  first  rain.  But  in  soils  of  any  consistency,  the  spade 
is  decidedly  better,  and  takes  but  little  more  time.  Throw 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  247 

out  the  soil  with  the  spade  to  the  depth  you  wish  to 
plant,  then  place  the  cutting  down  in  the  hole,  throw 
in  fine  soil,  and  firm  it  well  to  the  base  of  the  cutting 
with  the  foot,  letting  the  upper  end  come  out  at  the  stake, 
leaving  one  or  two  eyes  above  the  surface ;  then  fill  up 
the  hole  to  the  top,  leaving  a  small  mound  around  the 
upper  bud. 


CHAPTER    L. 

THE    VINEYARD.— SELECTION    OF   VARIETIES. 

As  remarked  before,  I  would  not  ran  the  risk  of 
planting  a  vineyard  with  varieties  of  the  Vinifera,  even 
in  districts  not  as  yet  affected  by  phylloxera.  This 
scourge,  sooner  or  later,  will  be  carried  all  over  the 
State,  and  make  itself  felt  everywhere,  except  perhaps 
in  those  districts  which  have  a  sandy  soil,  or  which  can 
be  inundated.  But  even  on  such  soils,  I  firmly  believe 
that  the  little  additional  cost  of  the  plants  of  resistant 
stocks  and  the  grafting  will  be  doubly  repaid  by  the 
increased  vigor  of  the  vines  and  their  greater  produc- 
tiveness, a  fact  which  is  already  well  established  in 
France. 

But  whether  you  plant  Vinifera  cuttings  or  resistant 
stocks  for  grafting  afterwards,  or  for  immediate  bearing, 
plant  and  graft  none  but  the  best  varieties,  those  which 
will  make  such  wines,  or  yield  such  raisins  or  fruit  as 
will  find  a  ready  and  remunerative  market.  Our  motto 
should  be  "  Excelsior !"  We  can  make  good  wines, 
wines  that  will  rank  with  any  of  the  world's  best  pro- 
ducts, if  we  have  the  suitable  material  and  manage  it 
properly  and  skilfully.  The  depression  in  the  markets 
only  a  few  short  years  ago,  was  caused  mainly  by  the 


2i8  A'MEKICAK   GEAPE   GROWING 

fact  that  the  great  bulk  of  wines  were  made  from  the 
Mission  grape,  many  of  them  poorly  made  and  handled 
carelessly;  at  that  time  wines  went  a-begging  at  ten  to 
twelve  cents  per  gallon,  and  grapes  could  hardly  find 
buyers  at  eight  and  ten  dollars  per  ton.  These  facts 
ought  to  show  us  that  our  wines,  to  gain  and  secure  a 
world-wide  market,  and  even  to  take  the  place  of  for- 
eign importations  in  this  country,  must  be  of  a  quality 
that  need  not  shun  competition  anywhere.  That  we 
have  the  material  to  do  this,  no  one  can  doubt  who  has 
seen  and  tested  some  of  the  really  choice  wines  already 
produced,  made  by  some  of  our  best  vintners  in  differ- 
ent sections  of  the  State.  But  the  great  trouble  is  now, 
that  we  have  not  enough  of  these  really  choice  wines  to 
supply  one-tenth  of  the  demand  for  them,  and  that  our 
dealers  are  forced  to  blend  the  finer  wines  with  the  low 
grades,  in  order  to  get  rid  of  the  inferior  stock  at  all. 
The  grower  should  consider  in  the  first  place,  that  those 
who  buy  his  grapes  must  spend  the  same  amount  for  labor 
to  make  and  handle  a  poor  product,  that  it  takes  the  same 
amount  of  casks  and  apparatus  to  make  and  keep  the 
wine,  that  it  is  more  difficult  to  handle,  and  that  it 
costs  the  same  amount  of  freight  to  send  a  gallon  of 
poor  or  inferior  wine  to  the  Eastern  markets  that  it 
does  for  good.  It  takes  a  greater  amount  of  labor  to  sell  it 
even  at  half  price;  for  it  is  an  old  saying,  that  "  good  wine 
needs  no  bush,"  and  the  grower  would  perhaps  not  cen- 
sure the  dealer  so  much  for  what  is  mostly  his  own  fault. 
Let  us  therefore  all  strive  to  plant  only  the  best  varieties, 
suited  to  our  soil  and  locality.  Our  red  volcanic  soils 
are  better  adapted  to  the  production  of  choice  red  wines, 
as  are  most  of  our  adobe  lands,  than  the  valleys,  which 
will  make  lighter  colored  and  milder  wines,  and  are 
therefore  better  suited  for  the  production  of  white  wines 
than  of  red. 

That  the  selection  of  varieties  for  such  a  diversity  of 


AND    WINE   MAEnS4;     ...  249 


soils  and  of  climate  must  yet  be  somewhat  of  an  experi- 
ment, is  self-evident.  If,  therefore,  there  are  vineyards 
already  established  in  one's  immediate  neighborhood,  it 
will  be  best  to  examine  them,  see  what  succeeds  best 
there,  and  choose  accordingly.  But  if  there  is  no  such 
guide,  or  the  neighbors  cultivate  only  the  common 
varieties,  it  will  pay  one  to  go  to  some  location  similar 
to  his,  where  there  is  a  good,  careful  grower,  when 
the  grapes  are  ripe,  examine  them,  and  get  his  opinion 
as  to  their  value.  Two  of  the  best  places  in  the  State, 
perhaps,  for  this  purpose,  are  the  vineyards  of  Mr.  H. 
W.  Crabb,  at  Oakville,  Napa  Co.,  and  the  vineyards 
and  cellars  of  Mr.  Chas.  Lefranc,  at  San  Jose,  Santa 
Clara  Co.  The  first  has  a  collection  of  over  three  hun- 
dred varieties,  perhaps  the  largest  in  the  State,  Mr.  C.  is 
a  skilful  wine  maker,  and  a  thoroughly  practical  man, 
who  takes  great  pains  to  keep  his  varieties  true  to  name. 
Mr.  Lefranc  has  taken  great  pains  in  improving  and 
growing  the  best  French  varieties,  and  has  given  the 
business  close  attention.  Mr.  G.  Groezinger,  at  Yount- 
ville,  Napa  Co.,  is  also  a  very  painstaking  and  intelligent 
wine  grower,  cultivating  choice  varieties.  The  following 
list  is  the  result  of  observations  made  mostly  in  their 
vineyards.  It  comprises  only  a  small  number  of  the 
very  best,  taking  both  high  quality  and  productiveness 
into  consideration,  and  from  looking  carefully  over  the 
selections  of  others,  as  well  as  from  personal  experience 
with  some  of  the  varieties.  There  are  many  more  which 
may  be  as  valuable,  but  have  not  been  as  fully  tried  as 
these.  These  are  given  separately,  as  "promising  well." 
I  have  also  given  their  many  synonyms  by  which  they 
are  distributed  and  known  in  different  parts  of  the 
State,  as  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  find  them.  It  would 
lead  too  far  in  a  work  of  this  condensed  character  to 
give  their  full  descriptions.  These  can  be  found  in  other 
and  larger  French  and  German  works,  where  they  are 


250  AMERICAN   GEAPE   GROWING 

also  completely  illustrated.     I  have  only  given  the  gen- 
eral characteristics  of  the  fruit  and  its  quality  for  wine. 


FOR  RED  WINE. 


BLACK  BURGUNDY. — Syn.  Petite  Pinot.  Vine  very 
hardy,  a  compact  and  moderate  grower,  very  productive. 
Bunch  medium,  compact;  berry  below  medium,  oblong, 
black,  juicy,  sweet.  Makes  a  dark-red  wine  of  fine  fla- 
vor, very  soft  and  full. 

GAM  AY  McGuEY. — Synonyms.  Tinto,  Rouge  de  Can- 
tal.  Rather  slender  grower,  very  productive.  Bunch 
small,  compact;  berry  black,  very  juicy,  with  a  sprightly 
purple  juice.  Makes  a  first-class  claret. 

GROSSE  BLAUE. — Vigorous  and  productive.  Bunch 
medium,  compact;  berry  medium,  oblong,  black,  juicy, 
spicy.  Makes  a  fine  dark-red  wine. 

LENOIR. — Syns.  Jacques,  Black  Spanish,  Devereaux, 
American,  with  resistant  roots,  vigorous  and  healthy 
foliage,  productive.  Bunch  long  and  loose;  berry  small, 
round,  black,  with  deep  purple  juice.  Makes  a  very 
dark-colored  wine  of  good  quality,  but  especially  valuable 
for  blending  with  and  coloring  other  wines. 

ZINFANDEL.  —  Syns.  Zinfindel,  Zierfahndel.  Per- 
haps the  best  known  and  most  generally  planted  of  all 
our  red -wine  grapes.  Vine  a  good  grower  and  produc- 
tive, but  varies  very  much  in  different  soils,  lacking 
color  in  a  great  many,  but  making  a  fine  sprightly  claret 
in  good  locations,  if  well  handled.  Bunch  large  and 
heavy,  shouldered;  berry  round,  medium,  black,  very 
juicy,  but  ripening  unevenly,  and  requires  to  hang  long, 
as  it  contains  a  great  deal  of  acid.  A  blend  with  a  small 
quantity  of  Lenoir  will  improve  it  greatly,  giving  it  a 
deeper  color  and  a  fuller  taste. 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  251 

VARIETIES  PROMISING  WELL. 

BLACK  FARMOT.  —  Vine  vigorous  and  productive. 
Bunch  small,  very  compact,  shouldered;  berry  oblong, 
medium,  juicy,  with  black-purple  juice.  Not  tried  for 
wine. 

BLACK  DISCHIA. — Syns.  Black  Pinot,  Blane  Claev- 
ner,  Black  Merlat,  Chauche  Noir.  A  good  grower  and 
moderate  bearer.  Bunch  medium,  compact,  shouldered; 
berry  below  medium,  oblong,  black,  of  high  character,  but 
hardly  productive  enough,  and  the  wine  lacks  color. 

MATAEO. — Syn.  Balsac,  Upright  Burgundy.  A  good 
grower,  and  hardy,  also  very  productive.  Bunch  heavy, 
compact;  berry  medium,  black,  with  blue  bloom;  makes 
a  fair  red  wine,  but  not  of  first  quality  nor  very  deep 
color. 

CHARBONO. — Syn.  Charbonneau.  Vine  very  produc- 
tive and  hardy.  Bunch  long,  shouldered,  of  peculiar 
shape;  berry  medium,  moderately  juicy,  but  decidedly 
flat  and  coarse  in  taste.  Makes  a  very  dark  red  wine, 
and  plenty  of  it,  but  of  second  quality;  only  valuable  for 
blending  and  coloring,  for  which  purpose  I  think  the 
Lenoir  far  more  valuable,  and  a  much  better  wine. 

CARIGNANE. — Syn.  Crignane.  Similar  to  Mataro  in 
productiveness  and  quality;  will  also  make  a  good  red 
wine,  though  hardly  first  class. 

GRENACHE. — Vine  very  productive;  especially  adapted 
to  poor  soils.  Bunch  heavy  and  compact;  berry  rather 
small.  Makes  a  fair  red  wine,  but  hardly  of  the  highest 
quality. 

MEUNIER.—  Syns.  Miller's  Burgundy.  Franc  Pinot. 
Vine  a  slender  grower,  fair  bearer.  Bunch  small,  com- 
pact; berry  small,  black,  juicy.  Makes  a  fine  red  wine. 


252  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

FOR  WHITE  WINE. 

CHAUCHE  GRIS. — Syns.  Gray  Riessling,  Gray  Dischia, 
Gray  Claevner,  Gray  Pinpt,  Rulander.  Vine  a  vigorous 
grower,  very  productive,  Bunch  medium,  very  compact, 
shouldered;  berry  small,  oblong,  of  a  peculiar  gray  color, 
very  sprightly,  juicy.  Makes  a  very  fine  white  wine, 
sprightly  and  high  flavored,  of  the  first  quality  and  de- 
cided character;  valuable  by  itself,  and  peculiarly  suited 
to  impart  character  to  other  white  wines. 

FRANKEN  RIESSLING. — Syns.  Sylvaner,  Oesterreicher. 
Vine  thrifty  and  productive.  Bunch  medium,  compact, 
shouldered;  berry  rather  small,  very  juicy,  high  flavored, 
with  an  agreeable  mingling  of  acid  and  sweet.  Makes  a 
fine  wine  of  high  character,  and  a  good  deal  of  it. 

JOHANNISBERG  RIESSLING. — Syns.  True  Riessling, 
Schloss  Johannisberg.  This  grape  and  its  quality  are 
too  well  known  to  need  laudation.  It  makes  one  of  the 
finest  of  our  wines,  and  may  be  called  the  standard  of 
excellence  in  white  wines.  Vine  vigorous,  moderately 
productive  with  long  pruning.  Bunch  small,  compact; 
berry  small,  greenish-yellow,  with  a  peculiar  gray  dot  on 
the  sunny  side. 

ORLEANS  RIESSLING. — This  is  somewhat  similar  to  the 
Franken  Riessling,  a  very  heavy  bearer  and  vigorous  vine, 
while  many  rate  its  wine  higher  than  that  of  the  Franken. 
It  is  a  very  desirable  variety. 

KLEINBERGER. — Also  a  variety  of  Riessling,  valued 
very  highly  in  Sonoma  Valley  on  account  of  its  general 
productiveness,  vigor,  and  the  uniform  good  quality  of 
its  wine. 

SAUVIGNON  VERT. — Syns.  Green  Sauvignon,  Chab- 
lis.  This  is  the  celebrated  Sauterne  grape  of  France,  and 
it  succeeds  admirably  here ;  it  is  a  very  heavy  bearer, 
its  wine  is  very  pure  in  taste,  yet  sprightly,  and  is  one 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  253 

of  our  best  white-wine  grapes.  Bunch  above  medium, 
long,  rather  loose;  berry  rather  small,  greenish  white, 
yery  juicy  and  sprightly. 

SEMILLION. — This  is  another  of  the  famous  white- 
wine  grapes  of  France.  Vine  vigorous,  productive ; 
bunch  compact,  shouldered;  berry  full,  medium,  slightly 
'oblong,  very  juicy  and  sprightly. 

SEEDLESS  SULTANA. — This  is  perhaps  the  most  profit- 
able of  all  white-wine  grapes,  as  it  is  an  enormous  bearer 
with  long  pruning,  a  vigorous  grower;  has  a  very  heavy 
bunch;  and  ripens  evenly.  Add  to  this  that  it  has  no 
seeds,  consequently  yields  a  large  amount  of  must,  and 
that  it  makes  an  excellent  wine  of  a  greenish-white  color, 
and  we  cannot  wonder  that  it  is  planted  extensively  by 
all  who  appreciate  these  qualities.  With  Mr.  E.  B. 
Blowers,  of  Woodland,  who  first  planted  it  for  raisins, 
it  produced  seventeen  tons  to  the  acre  last  year,  which, 
as  the  unusual  rains  interfered  with  curing  them  for 
raisins,  the  wine-makers  purchased  readily  at  thirty-two 
dollars  per  ton;  and  Mr.  Crabb,  who  has  made  wine  of  it 
for  several  years,  has  this  year  secured  the  whole  crop 
of  that  neighborhood  at  thirty  dollars  per  ton.  Bunch 
large  and  heavy,  shouldered;  berry  small,  round,  golden 
yellow,  without  seeds,  and  with  a  delicate  pure  taste  and 
flavor.  The  wine  made  from  it  by. Mr.  Crabb  was  one  of 
the  best  on  exhibition  among  the  white  wines  exhibited 
at  the  Grape  Growers'  Convention,  at  Dashaway  Hall. 

TRAMINEE. — This  is  one  of  the  most  famous  wine 
grapes  of  the  Palatinate  and  the  Ehine,  and  has  fur- 
nished some  of  the  noblest  wines  made  in  this  State.  It 
is  a  rather  delicate  grower,  but  an  abundant  bearer. 
Bunch  small,  shouldered ;  berry  small,  reddish-lilac, 
sweet,  spicy,  and  high  flavored,  and  rich  in  sugar.  It 
makes  a  wine  of  great  body,  smooth,  rich,  and  high  fla- 
vored. 


AMERICAN   GRAPE    GROWING 

PEDRO  XIMENES.— Syn.  Chasselas  de  Foy.  The  cel- 
ebrated Sherry  grape  of  Spain,  which  makes  a  fine  white 
wine  of  high  character  here.  Bunch  long,  loose,  not 
shouldered;  berry  full,  medium,  greenish-yellow,  juicy, 
and  high  flavored,  containing  a  good  deal  of  tannin; 
ripens  rather  late. 

WEST'S  PROLIFIC. — The  origin  of  this  grape  is  un- 
known; it  was  first  cultivated  by  Mr.  George  West,  at 
Stockton.  It  is  an  enormous  bearer,  somewhat  resem- 
bling the  foregoing,  but  heavier  in  its  bunch ;  berry 
somewhat  smaller  and  more  delicate.  Makes  a  very  fine 
white  wine,  and  an  excellent,  delicately-flavored  brandy. 

To  these,  which  are  all  of  the  first  quality  for  white 
wines,  I  would  add  several  varieties  of  Chasselas,  on  ac- 
count of  their  regular  productiveness  and  the  uniformly 
fair  quality  of  their  wines,  which  are  very  mild  and 
agreeable,  though  not  of  the  highest  character.  • 

CHASSELAS  FONTAINEBLEAU. — Syns.  Gutedel,  Royal 
Muscadine.  This  is  rather  a  delicate,  straggling  grower, 
but  a  very  uniform  and  prolific  bearer,  while  its  fruit  is 
always  even.  Bunch  medium,  shouldered  ;  berry  me- 
dium, round,  golden  yellow,  with  sometimes  a  brownish 
tinge  in  the  sun.  The  "Gutedel"  of  Messrs.  Gundlach 
&  Co.  has  already  established  quite  a  reputation,  and  is 
uniformly  appreciated  as  a  delicate,  pleasant  wine. 

CHASSELAS  VIOLETTE. — Syn.  Chasselas  Rouge.  A 
stronger  grower  than  the  foregoing,  with  peculiar,  brown- 
ish foliage,  and  has  also  the  peculiarity  that  the  young 
fruit  assumes  a  violet  tinge  when  but  half  grown,  being 
darker  then  than  when  it  is  fully  ripe;  very  productive. 
Bunch  long,  rather  loose,  shouldered;  berry  medium, 
round,  pale  red  or  lilac,  sweet  and  good.  Makes  a  rather 
richer  and  higher  flavored  wine  than  the  foregoing. 

VICTORIA  CHASSELAS. — Syns.  Red  Chasselas,  Queen 
Victoria,  Bakator,  Barbaroux.  A  very  estimable  grape, 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  255 

a  short- jointed,  stocky  grower,  especially  adapted  to 
stool  training,  and  a  heavy  bearer  of  very  large  bunches. 
Bunch  very  large,  often  weighing  six  pounds,  compact, 
and  shouldered;  berry  medium,  round,  red,  with  beauti- 
ful lilac  bloom,  juicy,  high  flavored,  and  spicy,  making  a 
very  good  white  wine. 

To  those  who  admire  a  Muscatelle  flavor,  the  small 
German  Muscatelle,  or  Frontignan,  will  be  acceptable,  as 
it  is  a  good  bearer  of  medium-sized  bunches,  which  make 
a  heavy,  yet  sprightly  wine,  with  a  delicate  Muscat  or 
Frontignaa  flavor,  which  makes  it  a  favorite  with  many. 

VARIETIES  PROMISING  WELL. 

MARSANNE. — A  beautiful  grower  and  heavy  bearer  of 
fruit  which  somewhat  resembles  the  Sauvignon  Vert,  and 
is  of  a  very  high  character,  promising  well  for  a  delicate 
wine. 

CADILLAC. — Good  grower  and  bearer.  Bunch  long 
and  loose;  berry  medium,  round.  Is  one  of  the  cele- 
brated wine  grapes  of  France,  and  the  few  samples  made 
here  seem  to  sustain  its  European  reputation. 

LA  FOLLE  BLANCHE. — Said  to  be  an  enormous  bearer, 
hence  its  name,  "  the  Crazy."  Good  wine  has  been  made 
of  it  in  this  State,  and  in  France  it  is  famous  for  pro- 
ducing the  finest  flavored  and  most  delicate  brandy. 

BUKGER. — Syns.  Berger,  Putzscheere.  An  old  variety 
in  this  State,  an  enormous  bearer  of  very  heavy  bunches, 
but  making  a  very  light,  acid  wine  in  the  valley  lands  of 
the  north,  while  the  hillsides  afford  a  better  product.  In 
the  south,  near  Los  Angeles,  very  good  wine  has  been 
made  from  it  by  Messrs.  Stern  and  Rose,  and  others.  It 
seems  to  be  well  adapted  there;  in  the  north  I  would 
plant  it  only  in  warm  locations  and  on  the  hillsides.  It 
is  a  neutral  wine,  of  very  little  character,  but  useful  for 
blending  on  account  of  its  agreeable  acid  and  smooth- 
ness. I  do  not  see  any  reason  why  those  who  can  have 


256  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

the  Sultana,  which  will  bear  the  same  quantity  and  give 
much  better  quality,  should  plant  the  Burger. 

Among  the  American  varieties  promising  highly  for 
white  wine,  the  Herbemont,  or  Warren,  is  perhaps  the 
first.  Wine  has  been  made  from  it  here,  which  is  very 
fine,  of  a  pale  straw-color,  and  fine  flavor.  The  vine 
grows  vigorously,  has  beautiful  foliage,  and  endures  all 
the  vicissitudes  of  our  hot  summers.  It  is  the  only  va- 
riety in  the  vineyards  under  my  charge  which  has  not 
suffered  in  the  least  from  the  three  hot  days  in  June, 
which  caused  coulure  in  all  others.  As  it  is  also  fully 
resistant  to  phylloxera,  it  promises  to  be  a  valuable  ac- 
quisition to  this  State,  as  it  has  already  become  in 
France,  where  its  wine  ranks  high.  For  a  full  descrip- 
tion of  it,  I  refer  the  reader  to  the  first  part  of  the  book. 

I  will  add  here,  that  all  the  varieties  of  Vitis  cestivalis 
promise  well  here;  they  have  splendid  foliage,  which  ad- 
mirably withstands  the  sun  and  drouth,  and  also  the  at- 
tacks of  the  thrip,  to  which  the  more  delicate  leaves  of 
the  varieties  of  V.  vinifera  succumb.  Norton's  Virginia, 
at  Fresno,  with  Mr.  Eisen,  has  splendid  foliage,  and  also 
bears  well  with  long  pruning,  and  here  in  our  vineyards 
the  Cynthiana,  Cunningham,  Rulander,  and  Dunn,  are 
growing  finely,  though  not  old  enough  to  bear  fruit  as 
yet.  The  improved  varieties  of  V.  riparia,  however, 
seem  to  lose  their  leaves,  and  the  fruit  is  smaller  than 
in  Missouri;  they  may  not,  therefore,  be  valuable  for  any 
other  purpose  than  for  grafting  stocks.  I  can  report  on 
them  further  next  year,  when  I  shall  have  a  number  of 
varieties  in  bearing. 

In  obtaining  cuttings  or  vines,  the  purchaser  should 
be  especially  careful  to  procure  them  of  reliable  men. 
There  is  such  confusion  existing  here  in  the  nomencla- 
ture of  vines,  that  but  very  few  know  what  they  really 
have,  and  as  a  great  many  vineyards  are  grievously  mixed, 
it  is  very  difficult  indeed  to  obtain  varieties  true  to  name. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  257 

It  will  be  a  herculean  task  to  bring  order  out  of  this  chaos, 
and  if  our  State  Viticultural  Commission  would  apply  a 
part  of  their  efforts  earnestly  to  this,  they  would  do  the 
public  a  greater  benefit  than  by  constantly  preaching 
French  and  other  outlandish  practices  and  theories  which 
may  prove  impracticable  here. 

The  foregoing  are  but  a  few  of  the  varieties  cultivated 
here,  and  no  doubt  the  near  future  will  bring  a  number 
of  others  into  notice  that  may  be  fully  as  valuable. 
Among  these  the  Trousseau  promises  well  for  making  a 
valuable,  dark-colored  wine,  especially  useful  to  be  man- 
ufactured into  Port.  The  varieties  just  named  and  de- 
scribed are  specially  adapted  to  make  fine,  dry  red  and 
white  wines,  which,  in  my  opinion,  will  be  the  leading 
interest  in  grape  culture  in  this  State. 

The  question,  whether  to  plant  more  red  or  white-wine 
grapes,  is  one  that  may  be  difficult  to  answer.  The  de- 
mand at  present  seems  to  be  very  large  for  clarets,  larger 
than  for  white  wines.  But,  on  the  other  hand,  the 
plantings  of  red-wine  grapes,  especially  of  Zinfandel, 
have  been  much  more  numerous  than  those  of  choice 
white  varieties.  It  is  certain  that  there  is  a,  class  of  con- 
sumers who  prefer  choice  hocks  and  white  wines  to  clar- 
ets, and  they  are  generally  willing  to  pay  a  good  price. 
When  the  general  tendency  seems  to  be  to  plant  red-wine 
grapes,  surely  some  should  make  white  wines  to  meet  the 
demand  for  them  which  already  exists,  and  is  sure  to  in- 
crease. Besides,  we  have  a  choicer  selection  of  white 
wines  and  white-wine  grapes  than  of  red,  and  would 
make  a  comparatively  better  article  of  them  to-day  than 
of  red  wines.  My  advice  would  be  to  plant  what  suits 
your  soil.  If  it  is  not  red,  volcanic  soil,  or  adobe,  which 
will  give  good  color,  plant  mostly  red  grapes.  If  the 
soil  is  loose,  or  sandy,  plant  white-wine  grapes.  If  the 
wines  you  make  are  good,  they  will  sell  readily,  whether 
they  are  red  or  white. 


258  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

CHAPTER    LI. 

CULTIVATION,    TRAINING,    AND    GRAFTING. 

During  the  first  summer  after  planting,  the  young 
vines  will  need  no  further  attention  than  frequent  stir- 
ring of  the  soil  by  plowing,  cultivating,  and  hoeing. 
Where  they  are  not  irrigated,'  they  will  make  but  slow 
growth  the  first  summer,  as  this  season  is  without  rain, 
from  the  beginning  or  middle  of  May  until  September, 
and  sometimes  even  longer.  Keep* the  surface  of  the  soil 
loose  and  mellow,  it  is  the  only  way  to  retain  moisture  in 
the  soil  and  keep  the  plants  alive  and  growing.  The 
vine  will  become  established  and  firmly  rooted  the  first 
summer,  and  its  progress  will  be  rapid  the  second  year. 
Cut  back  to  two  buds  of  the  young  growth,  from  which 
to  start  a  strong  shoot  to  form  the  basis  of  the  future 
vine.  Plowing  is  the  operation  next  in  order.  The 
common  practice  has  been  to  commence  in  the  middle  of 
the  row,  with  a  good  team  and  a  two-horse  plow.  Plow 
a  good,  deep  furrow  in  the  centre  of  the  row,  then  return 
in  the  row,  plowing  the  second  furrow  towards  the  first, 
and  a  third  furrow  towards  the  first  from  the  other  side, 
so  as  throw  the  soil  towards  the  middle  and  from  the 
vines.  This  is  as  near  as  you  can  come  to  the  vines  with 
two  horses,  and  a  man  with  a  single  horse  walking  in 
the  furrow  finishes  up  the  row  close  to  the  vines,  al- 
ways plowing  the  ground  away  from  the  vines,  and  to- 
wards the  middle.  A  good,  careful  man  can  come 
within  a  few  inches  of  the  vine  and  leave  but  a  small 
strip  for  the  hoe.  Hoeing  comes  next,  and  we  use 
either  two-pronged  hoes,  the  old  German  implement,  or 
spading  forks,  with  which  the  ground  is  thoroughly 
loosened  and  stirred  around  the  vine.  Then  comes  cross- 
plowing,  which  is  done  by  plowing  across  the  former  fur- 
rows at  right  angles,  first  throwing  a  shallow  furrow  with 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  259 

a  one-horse  plow  towards  the  vine,  on  each  side  of  the 
row,  which  is  followed  by  one  somewhat  deeper,  still  with 
a  one-horse  plow,  which  is  followed  by  a  two-horse  plow 
until  the  centre  of  the  space  is  finished.  This  leaves  the 
vines  in  a  bed  of  mellow  earth  around  them,  and  the 
ground  is  still  more  mellowed  by  harrowing  across  with 
an  iron  harrow,  wide  enough  to  take  the  row  pretty  close 
to  the  vines,  to  break  the  lumps  and  destroy  the  weeds. 
The  Acme  harrow  is  best  for  this  purpose.  Commence 
with  these  operations  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  dry  enough 
to  work  well,  in  spring.  If  the  winter  is  as  favorable  as 
the  two  last  have  been,  most  of  these  operations  can  be 
performed  during  the  winter  months,  which  is  also  a 
good  time  to  plant  rooted  vines,  make  cuttings,  etc. 
There  is  a  prejudice  against  planting  cuttings  in  the 
vineyard  during  winter,  as  our  old  practitioners  say  that 
the  cuttings  will  rot  in  the  cool,  damp  soil,  and  will  not 
start  as  freely  as  if  planted  in  March  or  April,  when 
the  ground  is  warmer.  This  sounds  plausible,  and  as  I 
have  had  mostly  rooted  vines  to  plant,  which  kept  me 
busy  all  winter,  I  have  not  been  able  to  test  it  practi- 
cally. I  know,  however,  that  the  young  vines  planted 
in  winter  start  readily  early  in  spring,  and  it  would  seem 
that  the  same  theory  would  apply  to  cuttings. 

The  above  is  the  most  common  way  of  plowing  in 
vogue  all  through  this  section.  Great  improvements 
have  been  made  lately,  however,  by  gang  plows,  invented 
for  vineyard  use.  I  will  describe  one  of  them,  invented 
by  a  gentleman  in  Napa  Co.,  this  State.  It  consists 
of  an  iron  frame  on  two  low  wheels,  and  has  a  tongue  to 
guide  it,  as  have  all  gang  plows.  The  iron  frame  consists 
of  five  strong  iron  bars,  running  lengthwise,  connected  by 
a  cross-bar  behind.  To  these  bars,  which  are  about  a  fur- 
row's breadth  apart,  two  plowshares  are  attached  by  iron 
clamps,  taking  the  two  centre  furrows  first,  throwing  the 
ground  together  in  the  middle.  When  a  piece  is  thus 


260  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

finished,  the  plows  are  attached  to  the  next  two  bars,  and 
take  the  next  two  furrows.  When  this  is  done,  the 
plows  are  again  set  out  further,  either  by  crooked 
shanks,  bringing  them  a  furrow  closer  to  the  vines,  or 
by  a  square  attachment  to  the  frame.  I  prefer  the  latter, 
especially  among  young  vines.  Of  course,  the  plows  must 
be  one  right-hand  share  and  a  left-hand  one.  In  loose  soil, 
in  our  valleys,  two  horses  can  pull  the  machine,  but  in 
heavy  soil,  and  on  hillsides,  it  takes  four  to  do  good 
work.  The  driver  rides  on  the  plow,  behind  the  horses, 
and  regulates  the  depth  of  the  furrow  by  a  lever,  like  a 
brake  on  a  wagon,  by  which  he  can  lift  the  plow  entirely 
out  of  the  ground  when  he  turns  at  the  end.  There 
should  be  abundance  of  room  at  the  ends  of  the  rows,  to 
turn  without  damaging  the  vines. 

In  cross-plowing,  the  shares  are  reversed  on  the  frame, 
so  as  to  throw  the  ground  to  the  vines,  and  the  furrows 
next  to  the  vines  are  taken  first.  After  the  first  two 
plo wings,  it  can  also  be  converted,  in  tough,  consistent 
soils,  into  a  cultivator,  by  attaching  four  shares  and  not 
plowing  so  deep.  It  saves  a  great  deal  of  labor,  as  it 
does  double  the  work  of  a  common  two-horse  plow, 
needs  but  one  driver,  and  does  the  work  better. 

Several  similar  plows  have  since  been  invented,  which 
claim  to  do  better  and  more  work;  but,  so  far  as  I  know, 
none  have  been  fully  completed.  They  will  plow  about 
seven  acres  a  day,  with  two  shares  attached,  and  we 
have  cultivated  an  average  of  seventeen  acres  a  day  with 
one  man  and  four  horses  when  four  shares  were  used. 

Cultivation  during  the  summer  is  generally  done  with 
sulky  cultivators,  with  five  teeth,  to  make  the  ground 
loose  and  mellow  and  keep  down  the  weeds,  using  com- 
mon field  hoes  around  the  vines  as  often  as  necsssary. 
As  the  system  of  planting  and  training  admits  of  cultiva- 
ting in  both  directions,  it  makes  it  very  easy  to  keep  the 
ground  clean  and  mellow,  especially  as  the  dry  weather 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  261 

stops  the  growth  of  weeds.  The  vines  do  not  materially 
need  a  support  the  second  summer,  especially  if  they  are 
of  varieties  of  stock  resistant  to  phylloxera,  to  be  grafted 
next  spring.  They  may  be  allcv/ed  to  trail  on  the  ground, 
and  as  cultivation  is  generally  finished  by  the  first  of 
August,  they  will  not  interfere  much  with  it. 

The  third  summer  we  expect  to  train  our  vines  and 
give  them  the  first  start  of  a  head  or  top.  If  the  young 
vine  is  a  Yinifera,  or  other  variety,  which  is  to  be  a  direct 
producer,  and  has  made  a  stocky  growth  of  three  feet, 
it  is  pruned  to  one  cane  of  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet, 
as  may  suit  the  habits  of  the  vine  and  the  fancy  of  the 
cultivator.  A  stake  of  red-wood  should  then  be  pro- 
vided for  support,  the  usual  length  is  four  feet,  by  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  though  many  prefer  stakes 
five  and  even  six  feet  long.  A  four-foot  stake  will  give 
from  two  feet  six  inches  to  two  feet  nine  inches  above 
ground,  which  is  high  enough  for  most  varieties  if  the 
head  is  formed  at  eighteen  inches  above  the  ground. 
These  stakes  can  either  be  purchased  in  bolts,  at  about 
twelve  dollars  per  cord,  and  split  by  the  vintner,  or  they 
can  be  had  sawed,  at  seventeen  dollars  per  thousand. 
If  long  stakes  are  used,  they  should  also  be  thicker,  and 
will  cost  more  in  proportion.  In  many  vineyards  they 
dispense  with  stakes  altogether,  but  I  think  this  is  very 
slovenly  culture,  and  not  to  be  recommended.  A  vine, 
if  worth  anything  at  all,  is  worth  a  stake ;  it  is  more 
convenient  in  cultivating,  gives  a  support  to  the  vine 
which  is  very  much  needed,  and  will  pay  the  additional 
cost  in  less  than  two  years  by  the  increased  yield  and 
better  quality  of  the  fruit.  The  stakes  are  pointed  at 
one  end  and  driveii,  by  a  mallet  or  sledge,  on  the  south 
west  side  of  the  vine,  as  our  prevailing  winds  are  from 
that  side,  and  by  tieing  to  that  side  the  vine  is  also 
shaded  from  the  afternoon  sun.  The  tieing  is  done 
either  with  willow  twigs,  of  which  every  vintner  should 


262  AMERICAN  GRAPE  GROWING 

raise  a  supply,  and  which  make  the  best  and  most  dura- 
ble tie,  or  with  grape  twine.  The  New  Zealand  Flax 
(Pliormium  tenax),  makes  an  excellent  tie,  and  can  be 
grown  for  that  purpose  in  swampy  places.  The  Agricul- 
tural Department  of  the  State  University  has  sent  out 
quite  a  number  of  the  plants,  and  its  leaves,  torn  into 
strips,  make  a  very  strong  and  flexible  material  for  tieing. 

GRAFTING  THE  VINES. 

If  resistant  stocks  were  planted,  they  will  be  strong 
enough  for  grafting  now.  This  operation  may  be  com- 
menced here  in  February,  and  carried  on  into  May,  pro- 
vided the  cions  are  kept  dormant  and  in  good  condition. 
The  common  cleft  graft,  as  illustrated  in  the  first  part  of 
this  book,  on  page  23,  I  still  consider  the  simplest,  best, 
and  most  successful.  To  do  it  most  conveniently  and 
quickly,  however,  I  think  it  needs  a  force  of  five  men, 
each  to  do  his  own  particular  share  of  the  work.  It 
can  best  be  done  after  the  first  hoeing,  when  the  ground 
can  be  taken  away  from  the  collar  of  the  vine,  leaving 
it  ready  for  the  operation.  One  man  now  cuts  the 
stocks  with  sharp  pruning  shears  (page  119),  keeping 
the  blade  of  the  shears  on  the  upper  side,  and  cutting 
square  across.  The  cut  should  be  made  at  a  smooth 
place,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  above  a  knot  or  joint, 
and  either  at  the  surface  of  the  ground  or  just  below  it. 
Then  make  a  longitudinal  cut  in  the  stock,  also  with  the 
shears,  cutting  straight  downwards,  and  also  with  the 
blade  of  the  shears  kept  on  top,  so  as  not  to  bruise  the 
bark.  Let  another  man  cut  the  cions,  as  figured  on  page 
23,  making  a  long,  sloping,  smooth  wedge,  thinner  on 
one  side  than  on  the  other.  Hand  No.  3  then  inserts 
the  cions,  which  he  can  do  in  stocks  of  that  size  without 
a  wedge  or  any  other  implement,  pushing  the  cion  down 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  263 

so  that  it  fits  nicely  the  inner  bark  of  the  cion  to  the 
inner  bark  of  the  stock,  and  on  the  upper  side  of  the 
latter.  Hand  No.  4  follows  with  tying  material;  bass- 
wood  bark  or  rice  straw  are  very  suitable,  if  kept  moist. 
Hand  No.  5  follows  with  a  hoe,  and  pulls  fine,  pulverized 
earth  around  the  junction,  up  to  the  top  of  the  cion,  to 
keep  off  the  sun  and  hold  the  moisture.  It  will  be 
well  to  drive  a  stake  on  the  southwest  side  of  the  vine 
immediately  after  grafting,  say  two  to  three  inches  from 
it,  to  which  the  young  shoots,  when  they  appear,  can  be 
tied  from  time  to  time  during  the  summer;  it  will  also 
serve  to  shade  and  protect  the  graft.  If  suckers  of  the  wild 
stock  appear,  they  should  be  rubbed  off,  taking  care  not 
to  disturb  the  cion,  and  in  hoeing  and  plowing  after- 
wards, the  same  care  should  be  exercised.  After-cultiva- 
tion is  the  same  as  with  the  other  vines.  If  the  graft 
grows  vigorously,  it  may  be  pinched  when  eighteen  inches 
high;  this  will  serve  to  start  the  laterals,  from  which  the 
head  of  the  vine  may  be  formed  the  next  spring,  and  also 
to  make  the  vine  more  stocky  and  ripen  the  lower  buds. 

In  this  manner,  by  dividing  the  labor,  grafting  will  be 
performed  quicker  and  better;  as  each  man  handles  but 
one  tool,  and  as  each  of  the  operations  is  very  simple  in- 
deed, he  will  soon  learn  to  do  his  part  well,  if  he  has  but 
ordinary  intelligence  and  dexterity.  I  am  sure  that  five 
men,  thus  organized,  can  easily  graft  five  thousand  vines 
per  day,  or  one  thousand  each.  Of  course,  care  should 
be  taken  that  the  cions  are  not  exposed.  They  can  be 
carried  in  a  tin  can  or  pail,  with  the  wedge  downwards, 
in  moist  saw-dust.  If  everything  is  done  well,  ninety  per 
cent,  will  grow,  and  the  few  which  fail  may  be  grafted 
again  next  season.  If  any  of  the  stocks  are  too  small, 
leave  them  until  next  season.  They  should  be  at  least 
two-thirds  of  an  inch  in  diameter  to  graft  well,  while  an 
inch  to  an  inch  and  a  quarter  is  a  still  better  size. 

There  are  a  great  many  other  methods,  such  as  the  so* 


264  AMERICAN    GRAPE    GROWING 

called  English  cleft,  or  whip  graft,  saddle  grafting,  graft- 
ing by  approach,  etc.  It  is  not  my  object  to  give  an 
elaborate  treatise  upon  grafting,  but  to  give  the  most 
simple  and  practical  method  by  which  large  vineyards  can 
be  grafted  with  the  least  labor  and  cost,  as  well  as  with 
the  greatest  assurance  of  success,  and  for  which  common 
field  hands,  with  ordinary  intelligence  and  skill,  can  be 
used.  All  the  more  complicated  methods,  as  well  as 
grafting  in  the  shop  and  setting  out  the  grafts,  I  con- 
sider as  little  better  than  impractical  nuisances,  not 
adapted  to  the  requirements  of  the  practical  vineyardist. 

With  this  method  little  or  no  time  will  be  lost,  for  we 
do  not  expect  much  fruit  the  third  summer,  and  the 
graft  will  make  nearly,  if  not  quite,  as  much  growth  as 
a  shoot  from  the  original  vine  would  have  done. 

Vines  which  were  not  grafted,  but  tied  to  the  stake 
and  pruned  as  described,  will  push  out  strong  shoots 
from  the  upper  buds.  These  are  left,  either  two  or  three, 
to  form  the  future  head  of  the  vine.  If  the  growth  is 
strong,  each  of  these  shoots  will  bear  a  few  bunches  of 
grapes,  so  that  the  crop,  the  third  summer,  will  some- 
times be  from  one  to  two  tons  of  grapes  to  the  acre, 
enough  to  pay  for  staking  and  cultivation.  In  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  State,  where  vineyards  are  irrigated,  there 
are  instances  on  record  of  two  to  three  tons  of  grapes 
even  the  second  summer;  but  here  in  the  north,  where 
we  do  not  irrigate,  it  generally  takes  four  years  before 
much  of  a  crop  can  be  obtained,  nor  is  it  judicious  to  let 
the  vines  bear  too  early,  as  it  exhausts  and  debilitates 
them.  To  form  a  good  head,  all  the  lower  shoots  should 
be  rubbed  off  as  soon  as  they  appear,  and  only  two  or 
three  of  the  upper  shoots  be  left,  according  to  the 
strength  of  the  vine. 

The  following  winter,  if  the  stool  or  head  pruning, 
which  is  now  most  generally  followed,  is  to  be  adopted, 
we  usually  cut  back  these  shoots  to  two  or  three  buds 


AXD   WINE   MAKING.  265 

each,  always  pruning  to  an  outward  bud,  so  that  the 
upper  shoot,  which  will  be  the  strongest,  will  grow  out- 
ward, as  the  object  is  to  train  the  vine  in  the  shape  of 
a  hollow  shrub,  with  as  much  light  and  air  in  the  centre 
as  possible.  This  mode  of  training  has  been  the  uni- 
versal one,  and  seems  to  be  specially  adapted  to  the  Mis- 
sion vine  and  some  other  varieties:  Zinfandel,  Victoria, 
Chasselas,  Malvaisia,  and  other  short,  stocky  growers, 
all  produce  well  ttith  it,  and  it  is  certainly  very  con- 
venient and  easy.  If  our  vine  has  three  shoots,  or 
branches,  and  is  pruned  to  three  spurs  of  two  buds  each, 
these  will  give  us  six  shoots,  enough  to  form  the  future 
head.  In  June,  in  this  part  of  the  State,  the  young 
shoots  are  generally  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  long.  The 
vine  is  then  suckered,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  which 
consists  in  rubbing  off  all  barren  and  weak  shoots,  all 
that  may  appear  from  the  bottom  and  the  stem  of  the 
vine,  and  also  all  shoots  that  show  a  tendency  to  crowd 
the  head.  This  is  also  a  good  time  to  pinch  the  tips  of 
the  remaining  shoots,  to  make  them  more  stocky  and 
shade  the  fruit  better,  as  they  will  then  throw  out  lateral 
branches.  I  know  that  many  consider  this  latter  opera- 
tion superfluous,  and  even  injurious,  but  I  have  found  it 
very  advantageous,  especially  as  a  guard  against  our 
heavy  winds,  which  have  more  power  on  the  long  and 
straggling  unchecked  shoots,  the  vine  balances  much  bet- 
ter, and  the  fruit  is  less  exposed  to  sun-scald.  It  is  dif- 
ferent in  its  effects  from  the  cutting  of  the  ripening 
wood  in  August,  which  is  absolutely  injurious,  checking 
the  growth,  and  robbing  the  vine  of  its  leaves  when  they 
are  most  needed  to  perfect  and  ripen  the  crop.  For  all 
the  Kiessling  varieties,  the  Chasselas  Fontainebleau,  Vio- 
let Chasselas,  Seedless  Sultana,  and  all  those  which  make 
longer  growth  of  cane,  especially  the  varieties  of  V.  CBS- 
tivalis,  I  think  a  different  mode  of  training  should  be 
followed,  and  the  general  experience  of  grape  growers 
12 


266  AMERICAN"   GRAPE   GROWING 

points  th^fc  way.  With  those  I  would  form  the  head 
from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  from  the  ground  the  third 
summer.  In  next  winter's  pruning,  if  they  have  made 
three  strong  shoots,  cut  back  each  of  them  to  three 
buds,  from  which  we  can  expect  at  least  six  strong, 
healthy  shoots.  In  pruning,  the  fourth  winter,  cut  the 
three  strongest  of  these,  one  from  each  branch  of  the 
vine,  back  to  a  short  cane,  say  eighteen  inches,  and  the 
others  to  spurs  of  two  buds  each.  These  canes  are  tied 
over  to  the  stake  with  a  strong  band  of  willow,  and  will 
bear  more  and  better  fruit  than  if  cut  back  to  short 
spurs.  At  the  next  pruning  these  old  arms  may  be  left, 
if  they  are  healthy  and  sound,  and  the  strongest  of  their 
branches  be  cut  back  to  spurs  of  two  buds,  while  the 
weak  shoots  are  taken  out  altogether,  or,  if  they  arc 
deficient,  they  may  be  cut  out  and  a  new  cane  from  the 
lower  spurs  tied  in  their  place.  This  method  of  train- 
ing allows  cultivation  both  ways,  and  has  been  so  suc- 
cessful wherever  tried,  that  the  use  of  stakes  becomes 
more  general  everywhere.  I  have  more  than  doubled 
the  product  of  an  old  piece  of  Chasselas  and  Muscatelle, 
which  had  been  trained  to  low  heads  without  stakes,  by 
training  them  in  this  way,  and  also  improved  the  quality, 
as  under  the  former  treatment  the  long  canes  were  blown 
over  by  the  wind,  and  the  fruit  exposed  to  the  sun. 

In  stool  training  the  vines  are  cut  back  again  to  spurs 
the  next  winter,  cutting  back  to  the  strongest  shoots, 
and  taking  out  the  weaker  ones.  Of  course  in  this,  as 
in  all  systems  of  pruning,  due  attention  must  be  paid 
to  the  strength  of  the  vine,  and  the  spurs  may  vary 
from  four  to  twelve,  or  even  sixteen,  according  to  its 
vigor. 

Cultivation  is  essentially  the  same  as  in  the  first  years, 
only,  as  the  vines  become  stronger  and  more  branched, 
especially  after  pruning,  great  care  must  be  taken  not 
to  break  and  tear  the  vines  in  plowing.  Here,  again, 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  267 

the  gang  plows  are  of  great  advantage,  as  the  plows  can 
be  so  arranged  as  to  run  close  to  the  yines  without 
breaking  the  spurs  or  stakes. 

DISEASES  AND  INSECTS. 

Of  diseases  we  do  not  suffer  very  much  here,  although 
mildew  (Oidium),  black  knot,  red  leaf — also  called  Span- 
ish Measles,  which  is  the  same  disease,  I  think,  called 
Anthracnose  in  France,  and  "  Pocken  des  Weinstocks  "  in 
Germany,  and  Coulure,  or  imperfect  setting  of  the  young 
fruit,  prevail  to  a  certain  extent.  The  best  remedy 
against  mildew  is  pulverized  sulphur,  dusted  on  the 
vines  through  a  dredge  with  a  fine  wire  screen.  It  is 
generally  applied  twice  in  the  season,  in  June  and  July, 
on  calm  mornings,  when  a  good,  active  hand  can  sul- 
phur about  five  acres  in  half  a  day.  About  two  pounds 
to  the  acre  is  Gufncient,  and  as  it  also  is  a  good  fertilizer, 
it  will  pay  to  apply  it  abundantly,  though  not  too  late  in 
the  season,  as  it  will  impart  its  taste  to  the  wine. 

Black  Knot,  also  called  Grape  Cancer  by  some,  is  a 
black,  warty  excrescence,  which  appears  on  the  stems  of 
the  vine  and  also  on  its  branches.  Its  main  causes  are 
stagnation  of  sap,  caused  by  external  injuries,  excessive 
pruning,  or  frost.  Vineyards  judiciously  pruned,  and 
not  subject  to  frost,  will  suffer  but  little  from  this  dis- 
ease. With  me  it  has  almost  entirely  disappeared,  though 
it  was  formerly  very  frequent,  when  strong  vines,  with  a 
good  growth  of  cane  fifteen  feet  long,  were  barbarously 
cut  back  to  five  spurs  of  two  buds  each  every  year.  Any 
one  who  prunes  his  vines  so  unreasonably,  should  be 
punished  by  having  the  Black  Knot  to  teach  him  better 
sense. 

Where  the  young  growth  of  a  vineyard  has  been  en- 
tirely killed  by  a  sudden  frost  when  it  was  in  an  imma- 
ture state,  so  that  the  vine  has  no  outlet  for  its  flow  of 


268  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

sap,  they  may  sometimes  be  saved  by  grafting,  when  the 
cion  will  take  up  what  would  otherwise  stagnate.  But 
if  the  reader  will  take  my  advice,  he  will  not  plant  a 
vineyard  in  a  frosty  location,  as  "an  ounce  of  prevention 
is  better  than  a  pound  of  cure." 

"  Coulure,"  or  imperfect  setting  of  the  fruit,  follows 
sudden  changes  in  the  weather,  and  has  done  much 
damage  this  year,  when  cold,  damp,  foggy  weather  was 
followed  by  hot  days,  when  a  hot  wind  blew  from  the 
north  for  nearly  three  days  and  nights,  early  in  June; 
the  vines,  whi3h  were  in  bloom  at  that  time,  did  not  set 
more  than  half  a  crop,  while  those  which  bloomed  later 
suffered  comparatively  but  lifctle  damage.  Some  varie- 
ties, such  as  the  Malbec,  and  others  of  that  class,  seem 
to  suffer  almost  constantly  from  it,  and  the  best  preven- 
tive is,  not  to  plant  such  kinds.  I  know  of  no  remedy 
which  could  be  applied,  and  fortunately  it  is  of  rare 
occurrence  here. 

Eed  Leaf,  or  Spanish  Measles.  This  will  prove  identi- 
cal, I  think,  with  the  disease  the  French  call  Anthracnose. 
It  generally  appears  in  midsummer,  when  the  fruit  is 
but  half  grown.  The  leaves  of  the  vine  show  red  spots, 
finally  become  red  altogether,  and  drop  off.  The  young 
fruit  becomes  discolored,  first  grayish,  then  shrivels  up, 
and  turns  black.  Very  often  only  a  certain  branch  of  the 
vine  is  affected,  while  all  the  others  are  healthy;  a  vine 
may  have  it  one  summer  and  be  entirely  free  from  it  the 
next.  It  is  most  destructive  on  the  Mission  grape,  al- 
though it  attacks  all  varieties  more  or  less.  It  has  never 
been  very  destructive  as  yet.  An  application  of  sulphate 
of  iron  in  solution  is  recommended  as  a  remedy,  applied 
in  spring;  some  also  recommend  sulphur,  but  I  can  see 
no  benefit  from  the  latter. 

Among  the  insects  injurious  to  the  vine,  found  in  this 
State,  the  most  formidable  certainly  is  the  phylloxera, 
and  it  has  already  made  serious  inroads  upon  this  in- 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  269 

dustry  in  various  sections  of  the  State,  though  not 
spreading  with  the  same  rapidity,  or  being  so  immedi- 
ately fatal  as  it  is  in  France.  It  has  made  its  appearance 
in  so  many  sections  of  the  State,  that  we  may  take  it  for 
granted  that  it  will  appear  .everywhere  in  time,  although 
it  may  never  gain  a  firm  foothold  in  those  districts  where 
the  soil  is  very  sandy,  and  it  can  be  submerged.  That 
its  inroads  can  be  serious  enough  even  here,  can  easily  be 
seen  in  the  devastated  vineyards  of  Sonoma  and  Napa 
counties,  where  hundreds  of  acres  of  once  nourishing 
vines  have  already  succumbed  to  it.  While  it  is  un- 
doubtedly true  that  vines  in  exhausted  soil,  impoverished 
by  constant  crop?,  yield  to  its  attacks  quicker  than  those 
on  richer  soil,  or  fertilized  with  manures,  there  can  be  no 
doubt  that  all  Vinifera  varieties  will  succumb  to  it  in 
time,  even  in  the  richest  soil.  It  is  also  just  as  apparent 
that  resistant  vines,  planted  in  soils  where  the  Vinifera 
varieties  have  been  entirely  destroyed,  and  the  ground  is 
full  of  the  insects,  will  live,  thrive,  and  produce  abun- 
dantly. The  best  and  only  safe  course  for  the  planter  is, 
therefore,  to  plant  resistant  vines;  and  I  would  consider 
it  the  hight  of  folly  for  any  one  to  plant  Viniferas  in  an 
infected  district.  Let  them  not  rely  on  insecticides  as  a 
partial  remedy.  It  is  much  cheaper,  indeed,  to  plant 
resistant  vines  at  once,  and  be  on  the  safe  side,  than  to 
doctor  a  vineyard  where  the  insect  has  once  appeared. 
The  plantings  of  Messrs.  Dresel  and  Gundlach,  in  Sono- 
ma Valley,  as  well  as  my  own,  of  over  two  hundred  and 
eighty  acres  of  resistant  vines,  have  fully  demonstrated 
the  fact  that  the  riparia  and  its  varieties  will  thrive  in 
all  soils,  and  grow  even  more  vigorously  than  the  vini- 
fera,  wherever  it  will  succeed.  My  course  would  there- 
fore be  to  plant  riparia  and  rupestris,  which  will  grow 
easily  from  cuttings,  and  graft  them  as  described  in  the 
preceding  pages.  I  am  glad  to  see  that  the  last  Con- 
vention of  Grape  Growers,  at  San  Francisco,  took  a  de- 


270  AMERICAN  GRAPE  GROWING 

cided  stand  at  last  in  favor  of  resistant  vines  as  the  only 
means  of  entire  safety,  a  conclusion  at  which  the  best 
French  authorities  have  arrived  long  ago.  The  testi- 
mony of  such  men  as  Professor  Gustave  Foex,  M.  A. 
Millardet,  Professor  Riley,  and  other  authorities  without 
number,  ought  certainly  to  be  conclusive  evidence  in  the 
case;  but  the  report  of  three  French  experts,  which  I 
give  here  in  full,  establishes  a  new  phase  of  the  question, 
namely,  that  the  French  varieties,  when  grafted  on 
American  stocks,  produce  much  more  abundantly  than 
they  ever  did  on  their  own  roots. 


CHAPTER    LIT. 

AMERICAN  VINES   IN   FRANCE. 

The  following  extract,  from  "  The  Wine  and  Spirit 
,"  contains  about  the  latest  French  experience  on 
the  subject  of  American  vines,  and  is  conclusive  enough 
to  convince  the  most  skeptical.  It  clearly  establishes 
two  points:  1st,  The  entire  resistance  of  the  American 
vines  to  phylloxera;  2nd,  The  adaptability  of  the  Vinifera 
for  grafting  on  the  American  stock,  as  it  positively  states 
that  the  productiveness  of  the  European  varieties  has 
been  increased  by  one-half  over  the  original  yield  : 

"Under  the  heading  '  Measures  for  Combating  the 
Phylloxera,'  a  pamphlet  has  recently  been  published  at 
Bordeaux,  giving  an  account  of  a  visit  paid  by  M.  A. 
Lalande,  the  deputy  for  the  Gironde,  in  company  with 
M.M.  Ed.  Lawton  and  T.  and  P.  Skawinski,  to  the  dis- 
tricts of  the  Herault  and  the  Gard,  for  the  purpose  of 
studying  the  means  employed  in  those  departments  with 
a  view  to  the  destruction  of  the  phylloxera  or,  where 
necessary,  reconstituthig  the  vineyards  already  destroyed. 


AND   WINE   MAKING. 


This  journey,  which  extended  over  six  days,  was  under- 
taken more  especially  in  the  interests  of  the  vine- 
growers  of  the  great  and  important  district  of  the  Medoc, 
the  centre  of  the  richest  vine  districts  of  France. 

"  Up  to  the  present  time,  the  ravages  of  the  phyllox- 
era, although  considerable,  have  not  by  any  means  been 
so  serious  in  the  Medoc  as  in  some  of  the  other  wine- 
producing  districts  of  France.  In  the  department  of  the 
Gard,  for  instance,  it  is  stated  that  out  of  two  hundred 
and  fifty-five  thousand  acres  of  vines,  two  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  have  been  destroyed;  while  in  the  Herault, 
which  produced  at  one  time  three  hundred  and  thirty 
million  gallons  of  wine,  and  the  average  annual  produc- 
tion of  which  was  two  hundred  and  twenty  million  gal- 
lons, the  quantity  for  1881  fell  to  seventy-seven  million 
gallons  only.  From  these  figures  it  will  readily  be  seen 
that  the  field  for  inquiry  offered  by  these  two  depart- 
ments was  an  extensive  one,  and  the  information  to  be 
obtained  should  be  of  extreme  value  as  a  guide  to  other 
districts,  and  all  the  more  so,  as  energetic  measures  have 
already  been  adopted  by  the  vine-growers  of  the  South, 
with  a  view,  if  not  to  save,  at  least  to  renew  the  vines 
which  constitute  for  them  the  chief  wealth  of  their  dis- 
tricts. 

"  Before  proceeding  further,  we  may  say  that  the  in- 
formation and  evidence  obtained  by  M.  Lalande  and  his 
fellow-travellers  throws  a  somewhat  new  light  upon  the 
question  of  the  phylloxera,  and  seems  to  show  that,  seri- 
ous as  the  damage  caused  by  this  insect  has  been,  and 
still  continues  to  be,  the  case  is  not  altogether  a  hopeless 
one.  Of  various  remedies,  some  thousands  in  number, 
suggested  for  combating  the  phylloxera,  three  only  at 
the  present  time  hold  an  important  position.  The  credit 
of  having  suggested  one  of  these,  that  of  re-planting  by 
the  American  vines,  is  assigned  to  M.  Laliman,  and  that 
gentleman  shares  with  Baron  Thenard,  M.  Dumas,  and 


272  AMERICAN  GRAPE  GROWING 

M.  Fancon,  the  honor  of  having  indicated  to  the  French 
vine-growers  the  three  means  capable,  according  to  situ- 
ation and  other  circumstances,  of  resisting  the  terrible 
plague  which  at  one  time  threatened  to  annihilate  the 
vineyards  of  France — that  is  to  say,  the  employment  of 
insecticides,  submersion,  and  American  vines. 

"Of  the  first  remedy  we  hear  but  few  particulars  dur- 
ing the  journey  undertaken,  by  M.  Lalande;  of  the  sec- 
ond no  notice  is  taken  at  all;  while,  on  the  other  hand, 
of  the  results  obtained  by  means  of  the  third,  most  strik- 
ing evidence  is  given,  and,  indeed,  it  is  apparent  that  it 
is  to  the  last  remedy — that  of  re-planting  with  American 
vines — that  M.  Lalande  and  his  fellow-travelers  attach 
the  greatest  importance. 

"  On  the  first  day  of  their  excursion  the  chief  interest 
seems  to  have  been,  attracted  to  some  vineyards  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Beziers,  where  an  extent  of  more  than 
five  thousand  acres  of  vines  had  been  preserved  for  some 
years  past  by  means  of  sulphide  of  carbon,  accompanied 
each  year  by  manuring  over  about  a  third  of  the  extent 
of  the  lands  in  question.  As  a  result  of  this  treatment, 
it  is  stated  that  the  vegetation  was  good  and  normal, 
although  there  were  some  points  where  the  sulphide  of 
carbon  appeared  not  to  have  acted  with  the  same  effi- 
ciency and  success  as  elsewhere.  The  failure  in  these 
cases,  however,  was  attributed  to  the  extreme  humidity, 
which  had  paralyzed  the  action  of  the  sulphide,  a  failure 
which,  it  is  hoped,  may  be  remedied  in  future  by  means 
of  drainage. 

"Proceeding  on  the  second  day  to  the  neighborhood 
of  Montpelier,  a  visit  was  there  paid  to  an  estate  on 
which  all  the  French  vines  had  been  destroyed  some  time 
previously,  and  which  now  presented  the  interesting  ap- 
pearance of  an  entire  reconstitution  of  the  vineyard  on  a 
grand  scale  by  means  of  American  vines  planted  ten  years 
previously,  and  subsequently  grafted  with  the  French 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  273 

vines,  which,  latter  have  since  offered  a  perfect  resistance 
to  the  attacks  of  the  phylloxera. 

"In  the  same  district  another  property  was  found 
where  the  vines,  which  were  of  a  French  variety,  had 
been  grafted  either  on  the  Lenoir,  Clinton,  Taylor,  or 
Riparia,  and  were  in  a  splendid  state  of  vegetation,  with 
an  abundant  appearance  of  fruit. 

"  Similar  accounts  are  given  as  to  a  number  of  other 
properties  visited  on  this  and  the  succeeding  days,  as  to 
which  M.  Lalande  remarks:  '  It  does  not  appear  neces- 
sary to  give  a  detailed  account  of  all  we  have  been  able 
to  observe.  We  limit  ourselves,  therefore,  to  remarking 
that,  after  having  seen  numerous  specimens  of  all  varie- 
ties of  American  vines  introduced  into  France,  we  have 
especially  noticed  some  Lenoir  and  Herbert) ont  vines  as 
presenting  a  magnificent  appearance,  with  a  fair  quantity 
of  fruit,  although,  it  should  be  stated,  much  less  so  than 
was  to  be  found  where  French  vines  had  been  grafted  on 
American  stocks.'  As  a  proof  of  this  fact,  some  par- 
ticulars are  given  of  a  property  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Montpelier,  where  all  the  French  vines  had  been  de- 
stroyed by  the  phylloxera.  Here  some  two  hundred  acres 
had  been  replanted  a  few  years  previously  with  the 
American  vine  called  Riparia,  and  these  had  been  subse- 
quently grafted  with  French  vines.  The  results  in  this 
case  were  splendid,  the  vegetation  being  very  fine,  and 
the  quantity  of  fruit  enormous,  in  fact,  all  the  vines 
vrere  loaded  with  magnificent  grapes,  and  these  extremely 
well  formed,  so  much  so  that  the  production  had  in- 
creased by  half  as  much  again  per  acre  on  the  original 
yield. 

"  Very  much  the  same  results  were  observed  on  the  last 
day  of  the  journey,  when  visiting  the  extensive  vineyards 
of  the  Duchess  Fitz  James.  This  lady  has  given  much 
attention  to  the  question  of  the  advantages  to  be  derived 
from  replanting  with  American  vines,  and  an  article  con- 


274          AMERICAN  GRAPE  GROWING 

tributed  by  her  some  twelve  months  ago  to  the  Revue  des 
deux  Mondes,  on  the  subject  of  American  vines,  may  be 
said  to  have  contained,  at  that  time,  all  the  information 
to  be  obtained  in  regard  to  the  same.  Speaking  of  this 
property,  M.  Lalande  says:  '  We  have  much  admired  here 
the  American  vines — principally  the  Lenoir — cultivated 
with  a  view  to  direct  production,  as  also  the  American 
vines  grafted  with  French  varieties.  We  have,  however, 
still  more  admired,  if  this  were  possible,  the  energy  and 
intelligence  displayed  by  the  Duchess  Fitz  James  in  the 
reconstitution  of  her  vineyards.  Some  idea  may  be 
formed  of  this  when  we  state  that  she  has  already  suc- 
cessfully replanted  one  thousand  two  hundred  and  sev- 
enty-five acres  of  vines,  and  is  making  arrangements  for 
increasing  this  replanting  to  the  extent  of  nearly  two 
thousand  acres,  thereby  inspiring  the  conviction  that  the 
magnificent  vineyards  of  this  district — now  almost  en- 
tirely destroyed — will  be  able  gradually  to  be  reconsti- 
tuted by  means  of  American  vines.' 

"  One  other  curious  piece  of  information  resulted  from 
this  visit.  It  appears  that,  it  having  been  found  that 
vines  planted  in  sandy  soils  resisted  the  attacks  of  phyllox- 
era better,  these  lands,  which  formerly  had  been  neg- 
lected, and  were  worth  scarcely  thirty-two  shillings  per  acre, 
have  now,  after  they  have  been  planted  with  vines,  in- 
creased in  value  to  nearly  one  hundred  times  that  amount. 
Thus  in  the  sandy  soil  of  Aigues-Mortes,  the  American 
vines  which  have  been  planted  there  presented  a  magnifi- 
cent appearance  with  an  abundant  show  of  fruit. 

"  From  all  the  information  obtained  during  their  visit, 
M.  Lalande  and  his  fellow-travellers  state  as  the  result 
of  their  experience,  they  found  in  the  departments  of  the 
Herault  and  the  Gard,  that  the  preference  was  given  by 
the  vine-growers,  almost  exclusively,  to  two  kinds  of 
American  vines — the  Lenoir  and  the  Eiparia,  although 
some  other  varieties,  such  as  the  Clinton,  the  Solonis, 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  275 

the  York-Madeira,  and  the  Rupestris,  are  considered  ex- 
cellent importations  for  grafting  with  French  vines. 

"  Too  much  praise  cannot  be  bestowed  upon  M.  La- 
lande  and  those  associated  with  him  in  this  journey,  un- 
dertaken as  it  was,  entirely  in  the  interests  of  fche  French 
vine-growers,  and  if,  as  appears  more  than  likely,  as  the 
result  of  their  visit,  the  practice  should  become  general 
throughout  France  of  replanting  with  American  vines  as 
a  means  of  resisting  the  phylloxera,  the  destruction  of 
the  French  vineyards,  which  at  one  time  appeared  more 
than  possible,  may,  it  now  seems  more  than  probable,  be 
averted." 


CHAPTER   LIU. 

RESTORING    AN    INFESTED   VINEYARD.-FROSTS. 

But  the  question  may  well  be  asked:  "What  shall  we 
do  with  an  old  vineyard,  infested  by  the  insect  ?  " — I  have 
the  management  of  such  a  vineyard  of  about  seventy-five 
acres,  of  which  about  twenty-five  have  already  succumbed, 
and  I  have  no  faith  in  the  application  of  any  of  the  insec- 
ticides that  have  been  tried,  believing  that  the  remedy 
will  not  be  lasting,  and  will  cost  more  than  it  is  worth. 
But  I  believe  in  the  liberal  application  of  manures. 
This  whole  vineyard,  the  crop  of  which  had  already 
dwindled  down  to  twenty  thousand  gallons  in  1882,  when 
I  took  it  in  hand,  was  well  manured  the  next  winter.  A 
part  of  it  was  treated  with  stable  manure,  a  part  with  gas 
lime,  and  another  portion  with  ammoniacal  liquid  from 
the  gas  works.  I  diluted  the  latter  by  adding  seventy 
gallons  of  water  to  ten  gallons  of  the  liquid,  and  applied 
about  half  a  gallon  of  the  solution  to  each  vine,  making 
a  shallow  trench  about  a  foot  from  the  stem.  The  gas 
lime  I  scattered  thinly  over  the  surface  of  the  soil,  using 
at  the  rate  of  half  a  gallon  to  each  square  of  eight  feet. 


276  AMERICAN  GEAPE  GROWING 

The  stable  manure  was  also  distributed  over  the  surface 
and  plowed  under.  The  ammoniacal  liquid  was  again 
applied  in  midsummer,  and  showed  astonishing  results 
in  the  increased  vigor  of  the  vines  and  size  of  the  berries. 
The  gas  lime  was  next  in  efficacy,  and  the  stable  manure 
third,  but  all  caused  an  increased  vigor,  and  though  we 
lost  over  five  acres  again  by  the  insect,  we  made  thirty- 
seven  thousand  gallons  of  wine,  which,  deducting  the  area 
destroyed,  made  our  crop  double  that  of  the  year  before. 
It  is  but  fair  to  say,  however,  that  different  pruning  and 
training,  as  well  as  better  cultivation,  contributed  largely 
to  this  increase.  I  intend  to  follow  up  this  treatment, 
and  keep  the  vines  alive  as  long  as  I  can,  and  to  replant 
the  destroyed  part  of  the  vineyard  with  American  vines. 
Those  already  set  out  show  satisfactory  growth  and 
vigor,  although  planted  in  the  same  place  where  the 
Viniferas  were  destroyed. 

In  the  first  part  of  the  book  I  have  already  given  the 
condensed  life  history  of  the  Phylloxera,  and  it  would 
lead  too  far,  were  I  to  go  into  all  the  testimony  and  details 
relating  to  this  pest.  A  word  to  the  wise  is  sufficient. 

We  also  have  the  grape  vine  Fidia  here  in  this  State.  In 
addition  to  the  remedies  given  on  page  112;  we  apply  sul- 
phur, which  seems  to  check  them.  The  Thrip  or  Leaf- 
hopper  (a  dull  white  and  yellow  insect)  is  very  abundant 
and  destructive  to  the  foliage  in  certain  parts  of  the  State. 
Spraying  in  spring  with  a  mixture  of  sulphur,  Buohach 
and  soft  soap,  through  a  fine  nozzle  manufactured  for 
the  purpose,  is  a  good  remedy.  In  fall,  when  the  grapes 
are  off,  sheep  may  be  turned  among  the  vines,  which  will 
eat  the  leaves  and  weeds,  thereby  destroying  millions  of 
the  insects,  and  enrich  the  ground  by  their  droppings. 

ISTone  of  the  diseases  and  insects  found  here,  are  such 
serious  obstacles  to  grape  culture,  as  the  unfavorable 
climate  and  the  manifold  diseases  present  to  the  grape 
growers  of  the  States  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  277 

fact,  the  ease  with  which  grapes  and  all  other  fruits  have 
been  grown  here,  has  engendered  in  many  of  the  old 
grape  growers,  a  disposition  to  ease  and  slovenliness;  and 
has  been  the  cause  of  a  great  deal  of  poor  management 
and  carelessness,  of  which  poor  results,  in  quality  and 
quantity,  were  the  natural  consequences.  Many  have 
rushed  heedlessly  into  grape  culture,  without  any  fitness 
for  the  task.  These  will  quit  it  after  a  few  years  of 
seemingly  unfavorable  results,  and  the  sooner  they  drop 
from  the  ranks,  the  better  it  will  be  for  the  ultimate  suc- 
cess of  the  cause. 

FROSTS. 

As  remarked  before,  the  greatest  care  should  be  taken 
to  avoid  frosty  locations.  But  if  any  one  is  so  unfortunate 
as  to  have  a  vineyard  subject  to  frosts,  he  can  do  some- 
thing to  avoid  the  calamity.  It  is  a  universal  practice  to 
place  pans  holding  gas  tar  in  different  parts  of  the  vine- 
yard, which  is  lighted  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  makes  a  very  dense  smoke.  Any  other  material  that 
will  make  a  thick  smoke,  may  also  be  used.  While  smoke 
may  be  a  partial  protection  if  the  thermometer  falls  but 
a  degree  or  so  below  the  freezing  point,  I  have  little  faith 
in  its  efficacy  when  the  temperature  falls  still  lower.  I 
believe  more  in  longer  pruning,  as  a  means  to  guard 
against  total  loss.  A  grape  grower  in  Sonoma  valley,  who 
has  a  very  frosty  situation,  obtained  a  fair  crop  in  1882, 
when  neighbouring  vineyards  were  badly  damaged,  by 
pruning  his  vines  late  in  May,  when  all  danger  of  frost 
had  passed.  The  upper  buds  of  the  vines,  which  had 
started  before  the  frost,  had  all  been  killed,  while  the 
lower  ones  remained  dormant.  When  he  pruned  back  to 
these,  they  started,  and  produced  a  fair  crop,  but  as  the 
grapes  were  very  late,  they  did  not  ripen  fully,  and  being 
Zinfandel,  made  a  very  acid  wine,  hardly  salable.  He 


278  AMERICAK   GRAPE   GROWING 

has  followed  the  same  course  this  season,  and  will  have  a 
late  and  imperfect  crop  again,  when  his  neighbors,  who 
pruned  at  the  usual  time,  have  a  fine  and  abundant  crop. 
I  think  that  a  crop  may  be  secured  in  such  locations 
by  somewhat  longer  pruning,  leaving  spurs  of  three  to 
four  buds,  instead  of  two  buds,  then  the  two  upper  buds 
will  start  first,  the  lower  ones  of  course  remaining  dor- 
mant. If  there  is  no  frost,  so  much  the  better,  the  first 
shoots  will  then  ripen  their  fruit,  and  any  superfluous 
shoots  may  be  rubbed  out  when  all  danger  is  past.  If  a 
frost  should  take  the  first  shoots,  then  the  lower,  dormant 
buds  will  push,  and  certainly  produce  earlier  and  better 
fruit,  than  they  will  do  if  the  vine  is  first  weakened  by 
losing  all  its  leaves  and  shoots  at  a  time  when  they  are 
needed  for  elaborating  the  sap,  and  when  excessive  flow  of 
sap  and  bleeding  are  inevitable.  This  seems  to  me  a 
simple  and  natural  preventive  of  total  loss  by  frost,  and  I 
advise  my  readers  to  try  it,  hoping  that  it  will  prevent 
this  unpleasant  calamity. 

MARKETING  GRAPES. 

This  is  a  very  important  business  in  this  State, and  many 
who  follow  it  find  it  more  profitable  than  making  wine. 
Carloads  upon  carloads  are  shipped  East,  until  California 
grapes  can  be  found  in  every  market  of  consequence.  The 
varieties  used  for  shipping  are  mostly  such  as  have  a  large 
handsome  berry  and  bunch,  and  meaty  or  solid  flesh,  with 
rather  thick  ckin,  so  that  they  will  carry  well.  The  most 
popular  varieties  are  the  Flame  Tokay  and  Muscat  of 
Alexandria,  the  first  a  large  lilac  berry  and  a  very  heavy, 
compact  bunch,  sometimes  weighing  seven  to  nine  pounds, 
the  latter  a  large  greenish-white  berry,  long,  loose  bunch, 
with  a  strong  Muscat  flavor.  This  is  also  the  principal 
raisin  grape.  The  Rose  of  Peru,  also  called  Black  Prince, 
is  shipped  considerably,  though  it  does  not  bear  carriage 
so  well.  The  earliest  grapes  shipped  are,  generally,  the 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  279 

Golden  Chasselas  and  Sweetwater.  The  Emperor,  a  late 
grape  of  handsome  purple  color,  and  Black  Morocco,  with 
the  Cornuchon,  are  also  shipped  to  some  extent.  I  hear 
of  contracts  made  for  whole  vineyards  of  these  varieties, 
at  from  sixty  to  sixty-five  dollars  per  ton,  the  buyer  paying 
freight.  They  are  generally  packed  in  boxes  of  twenty-five 
pounds  each,  and  the  same  directions  for  packing  given 
in  the  first  part  of  this  volume  will  apply  here. 


CHAPTER    LIV. 

RAISIN  MAKING. 

The  making  of  raisins  is  a  business  assuming  vast 
proportions,  and  California  raisins  seem  to  find  a  ready 
sale  at  remunerative  prices,  when  well  handled  and  cured. 
Many  engage  in  this  branch  of  grape  culture,  who  have 
concientious  scruples  against  making  wine,  and  even 
ladies  have  resorted  to  it  as  a  pleasant  and  profitable 
means  of  support.  Miss  M.  F.  Austin,  a  maiden  lady,  is 
manager  of  the  Hedgerow  vineyard,  near  Fresno,  and 
cultivates  thirty  acres  of  grapes  for  making  raisins.  Messrs. 
Briggs  Bros,  have  several  hundred  acres  near  Davisville 
and  Woodland,  Yolo  Co.,  exclusively  in  raisin  grapes, 
mostly  in  Muscats,  Muscatella  and  G-ordo  Blanco.  The 
Muscats  are  vines  of  very  peculiar  growth,  branching  close 
to  or  from  the  ground,  and  have  very  stocky,  short-jointed 
wood,  and  they  are  generally  grown  very  low,  most  of  the 
branches  resting  on  the  ground.  The  seedless  grapes,  of 
which  the  Sultana  is  the  most  prominent  and  promising, 
require  long  pruning  to  produce  well.  The  White 
Corinth,  smaller  than  the  Sultana,  has  been  grown  in  this 
State  with  varying  success;  the  general  impression  being 
that  it  is  not  sufficiently  productive.  Very  fine  samples  of 
the  dried  fruit  and  the  grapes  of  both  this  and  the  Sul- 
tana were  shown  at  the  last  Viticultural  Convention,  and 


,-:..,^-^ 

..V.v.'*  /.; 
•-.'•'*•  i  ' 

280,          AMERICAN"  GRAPE  GROWING 

as  the  Sultana  is  also  an  excellent  wine  grape,  there  can 
be  no  risk  in  planting  it  largely. 

As  I  am  not  experienced  in  raisin  making,  I  insert  here 
an  article  by  Mr.  R.  B.  Blowers,  from  the  Report  of  the 
State  Board  of  Viticulture  for  1880.  Mr.  B.  has  made  rai- 
sin making  a  speciality  in  Yolo  Co.  and  has  been  very  suc- 
cessful. He  has  himself  constructed  a  very  practical 
dryer  in  which  he  finishes  up  the  drying  begun  in  the 
field.  The  working  is  described  in  a  very  practical  manner. 

The  following  is  the  Report  of  Mr.  R.  B.  Blowers, 
Commissioner  for  the  Sacramento  District: 

"  Raisin  making  being  one  of  the  important  interests  in 
this  viticulturual  district,  I  will  explain  the  California 
method.  Raisins  are  made  from  the  Muscatella,  Gordo 
Blanco,  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  preferably  of  the 
former;  also  a  seedless  raisin,  highly  esteemed,  made  from 
the  seedless  Sultana.  The  grapes  should  be  allowed  to 
remain  on  the  vine  until  quite  ripe,  and  show  a  yellowish 
or  golden  color,  and  being  more  translucent  than  when 
too  green.  Then  they  should  be  carefully  picked  and 
placed  upon  a  drying  tray  (usually  two  by  three  feet  in 
size),  and  exposed,  with  an  inclination  toward  the  sun, 
in  some  convenient  place,  generally  between  the  rows  in 
the  vineyard,  or  in  some  contiguous  open  land.  After 
having  been  exposed  a  sufficient  time  to  become  about 
half  dried,  they  are  turned  once  in  this  manner,  viz. :  two 
workmen  taking  an  empty  tray,  place  it  upon  a  full  one, 
holding  them  firmly  together,  and  with  a  swinging  motion 
turn  them  over,  and  replace  the  now  turned  grapes  in 
their  former  position.  The  turning  should  be  done  before 
the  dew  is  quite  off  of  the  grapes  in  early  morning;  then, 
when  the  grapes  have  become  so  dry  as  to  lose  their  ashy 
appearance,  some  being  a  little  too  green  and  some  quite 
dry  enough,  they  are,  after  removing  those  entirely  too 
green,  slid  from  the  tray  into  large  sweat  boxes,  having 
a  thick  sheet  of  paper  between  about  every  twenty-five  or 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  \C  '-281 

thirty  pounds  of  raisins,  and  then  removed  toTntJy  lore- 
room,  where  they  should  remain  two  weeks  or  more. 
When  ready  to  pack,  it  will  be  found  that  the  too  moist 
ones  have  parted  with  their  surplus  moisture,  which  has 
been  absorbed  by  the  stems  and  drier  raisins.  The  stems 
are  now  tough  and  the  raisins  soft  and  ready  to  pack. 
They  are  carefully  placed  in  packing  frames  made  of  iron 
or  steel.  The  large  and  fair  ones  being  placed  carefully 
in  the  bottom  of  the  frames,  the  surplus  stems  and  im- 
perfect berries  cut  away,  then  the  average  raisins  are 
arranged  in  and  weighed,  placing  five  pounds  in  each 
frame,  pressed  enough  to  make  them  firm  in  the  frame, 
but  not  enough  to  break  the  skin.  They  are  then 
passed  to  an  inspector,  who  examines  the  exposed  side  of 
the  raisins,  removing  any  imperfect  ones,  then  placing 
the  wrapper  paper  on  the  frame,  holds  it  in  place  with  a 
wooden  or  steel  plate,  turns  it  bottom  up,  drops  the  left 
end  into  the  box,  slides  the  plate  quickly  from  under  the 
frame,  and  it  drops  into  the  box,  then  pressing  slightly 
upon  the  movable  bottom  of  the  frame,  the  frame  is  re- 
moved; the  bottom  of  the  frame  is  then  pressed  more 
firmly,  to  cause  the  raisins  to  fill  the  space  formerly 
occupied  by  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  frame;  then  it  is 
removed,  and  the  face  of  the  latter  is  exposed,  all  imper- 
fect berries  or  too  wet  ones  are  removed,  and  all  vacan- 
cies or  hollows  filled  by  large,  loose  raisins.  The  label  of 
the  proprietor  is  then  placed  on  the  face;  the  ends  of  the 
wrapper,  and  then  the  sides  are  folded  over,  the  box  cover 
nailed  on,  and  they  are  ready  for  market. 

"  The  complaint  is  sometimes  made  that  the  California 
raisins  have  tough  skins,  too  large  and  too  many  seeds, 
lose  flavor  in  cooking,  lose  their  bloom,  and  do  not  keep 
well.  The  most  of  these  objections  arise  from  an  imper- 
fect knowledge  of  the  best  varieties  from  which  to  make 
raisins.  If  Californians  would  confine  themselves  to  varie- 
ties which  centuries  of  experience  have  proved  to  be  best 


283  AMERICAN  GRAPE   GROWING 

in  Europe,  there  would  be  more  satisfaction  in  the  result. 
Cultivation,  irrigation,  local  climate,  kind  of  soil,  and 
exposure  to  sun,  all  have  an  influence  in  modifying  the 
characteristics  of  any  one  variety.  Virgin  soil  and  vigor 
of  vine  may  make  the  seeds  fuller,  as  it  does  in  the  cereals, 
but  it  should  not,  other  things  being  equal,  make  the 
skins  thicker,  but  the  contrary. 

"As  a  soil  for  raisins,  a  rich,  sandy  loam  is  preferred; 
the  climate  should  be  warm;  the  soil  moist;  winter  irri- 
gation in  average  years  is  quite  as  important  as  summer 
in  our  dry  valleys.  For  safety  against  many  kinds  of 
insect  pests,  the  phylloxera  especially,  a  location  is  desir- 
able where  water  is  plenty  and  evenness  of  land  surface 
permits  winter  submersion.  In  such  favorable  locations 
a  larger  berry,  thinner  skin,  better  yield,  etc.,  will  be  the 
result.  The  vines  are  planted  eight  by  eight  feet  in  many 
locations,  but  growers  of  the  greatest  experience  prefer  a 
greater  distance  apart;  some  plant  eight  feet  by  ten  feet, 
some  ten  by  ten  feet,  thus  giving  greater  vigor  to  each 
vine,  enabling  it  to  resist  enemies  of  all  kinds  more  surely. 

"  Many  hundred  tons  of  shipping  grapes  are  sent  East 
from  this  district  to  all  principal  markets  in  the  United 
States.  The  Emperor,  Tokay,  Black  Morocco,  and  Mus- 
cat family  are  most  liked  for  the  Eastern  market. 

"  Irrigation  is  a  very  important  factor  in  the  success  of 
the  fruit  grower,  but  if  the  situation  is  good  in  other 
respects,  and  no  ditch  water  can  be  secured,  it  is  found 
that  in  many  parts  of  the  State  an  unfailing  supply  lies 
but  a  small  way  beneath  the  surface  in  gravel  ridges. 
Former  watercourses  having  been  filled  with  gravel,  the 
surface  stream  diverted  sometimes  many  miles  away,  leave 
quite  a  large  flow  of  water  in  the  gravel.  This  being 
tapped  by  a  well,  the  only  equipment  needed  is  a  straw- 
burner  engine  and  rotary  pump,  and  one  hundred  or  more 
acres  can  be  irrigated  with  economy,  insuring  a  good 
profit  and  a  pleasant  home. 


WINE  MAKING.  283 

"  In  an  experiment  made  recently  in  Yolo  County,  after 
having  submerged  the  entire  vineyard  for  nearly  two 
weeks,  such  a  well  being  on  the  place,  the  ditch  water 
was  shut  off  from  twenty  acres  of  the  vineyard,  and 
while  the  water  still  covered  the  entire  surface  to  the 
extent  of  over  nineteen  acres,  the  pump  was  run  five 
hours,  supplying  the  seepage  and  raising  the  water  five- 
eighths  of  an  inch  over  the  entire  surface,  showing  that  in 
twenty-four  hours  three  inches  in  excess  of  the  seepage 
could  be  added  to  nineteen  acres  after  the  ground  had 
been  saturated. 

"Cost  of  planting  and  cultivating,  irrigating,  labor, 
subsistence,  etc.,  including  total  expense  for  first  year,  is 
from  twenty  to  twenty-five  dollars  per  acre,  if  thoroughly 
well  done;  second  year,  fifteen  to  twenty  dollars;  third 
year,  many  varieties,  if  well  cared  for,  yield  a  profit;  if 
not  well  attended  to  it  may  take  a  year  or  two  longer. 
Nothing  pays  better  than  care,  and  nothing  loses  more 
surely  than  negligence  in  vine  growing.  In  pruning,  the 
habit  of  each  variety  grown  should  be  closely  studied.  In 
grafting  great  care  should  be  taken  to  choose  stock  with 
wrood  of  similar  growth;  if  the  variety  desired  is  a  coarse 
wood  and  large  grower,  a  similar  stock  should  be  selected; 
if  wood  is  of  fine  texture  and  slow  growth,  a  wood  of  fine 
texture  should  be  selected  as  grafting  stock.  As  fruit 
growing  is  destined  to  be  the  pursuit  of  a  large  portion  of 
the  agriculturists  of  this  State,  and  their  experience  shows 
a  yearly  increase  of  insect  pests,  doing  great  damage  to 
the  various  branches  of  the  industry,  a  State  entomolo- 
gist, whose  duty  should  be  to  study  the  habits  of  all  in- 
jurious insects  and  assist  in  devising  means  for  their  ex- 
termination, seems  to  be  an  actual  necessity;  also,  the 
enactment  of  some  law  compelling  those  careless  of  their 
own  interests  to  keep  their  fruit  farms  from  breeding  in- 
sects for  the  contagion  of  surrounding  districts." 


:. :-          AMERICAN  GRAPE  6ROWIXG 

CHAPTER    LY. 

WISE   MJUOXG  IS  CJLLIFOE3TCA. 

Wine  Baking  is  much  more  simple  and  less  laborious 
here  than  in  Missouri  and  the  Eastern  States,  as  our 
dry  summers  always  mature  the  grapes  sufficiently  to 
make  a  good,  salable  wine,  if  well  handled  in  ferment- 
ing. The  practices  of  Gall  and  Petiot  are  neither  useful, 
necessary,  nor  profitable  here,  where  grape-juice,  if  proper 
varieties  are  sekcted,  is  perfect  enough  to  make  a  good 
wine,  and  is  cheaper  tiian  additions  of  sugar  and  water. 
In  my  practice  here,  during  two  vintages,  very  dissimilar 
in  their  product,  I  have  not  found  the  least  difficulty  in 
making  a  good,  sound  wine  from  every  grape  I  have  han- 
dled; my  wines  were  always  fully  through  fermentation 
in  less  than  six  days,  and  clear  enough  to  be  marketed 
in  six  weeks  from  the  time  they  were  made.  They  were 
shipped  as  far  East  as  Connecticut,  when  not  more  than 
a  year  old,  and  arrived  in  perfect  condition. 

Let  it  be  understood,  therefore,  that  all  the  practices 
given  in  the  following  pages  relate  only  to  pure  grape- 
juice,  and  the  wine  made  from  it.  I  am  indeed  glad 
that  I  am  making  wine  in  a  State  where  all  these  manip- 
ulations, necessary  a*  they  are  in  a  leas  favorable  cli- 
mate, are  entirely  superfluous. 

The  directions  about  the  construction  of  cellars  and 
fermenting  rooms,  as  given  in  Part  3  of  the  book,  will 
also,  for  the  most  part,  apply  here,  although  it  is  not 
necessary,  in  this  temperate  climate,  to  have  the  fer- 
menting room  under  ground.  On  this  place  we  hare  a 
three-story  wine-house,  with  a  capacity  of  sixty  thousand 
gmilnmm  whk'h  admirably  answers  all  purposes.  It  is 
built  of  stone,  forty  by  sixty  feet;  the  lower  story  is 
mostly  under  ground,  and  twelve  feet  high,  not  arched, 
but  with  a  double  floor,  which  is  supported  by  a  double 


AXD    WINE   MAKING.  285 

• 

row  of  strong  wooden  pillars  twelve  feet  from  the  wall. 
This  gives  room  for  four  rows  of  one  thousand  gallon 
casks,  one  on  each  side  and  two  in  the  middle,  with  suffi- 
cient room  between  for  pumping  and  racking.  AVe  have 
here  two  rows  of  six  casks  on  each  side,  one  row  of  five 
casks  across  at  the  further  end,  and  two  rows  of  five 
casks  each  in  the  middle,  making  a  capacity  of  twenty- 
seven  thousand  gallons,  to  which  we  can  easily  add  five 
thousand  more  by  putting  smaller  casks  on  top.  This 
keeps  an  even  temperature  of  about  sixty  degrees,  sum- 
mer and  winter.  The  second  story  is  entirely  above 
ground,  ten  feet  high,  and  with  the  same  capacity  as  the 
lower.  This  is  used  as  the  fermenting  room  proper,  and 
contains  two  rows  of  casks  of  one  thousand  gallons  capa- 
city each,  in  the  middle,  with  smaller  casks  and  ferment- 
ing tanks  on  each  side.  The  third  story  is  really  only  a 
halt'  story,  and  contains  stemmers,  crushers,  and  presses. 
The  grapes  are  handed  up  in  boxes  over  a  platform  at 
the  back  end  of  the  building,  which  is  built  into  the 
easi  side  of  a  hill.  The  upper  story  contains  also  some 
fermenting  vats  for  white  grapes,  grape  boxes,  and  other 
implements  used  in  wine-making,  and  it  serves  as  a  shop 
in  which  to  make  cutting's,  etc.,  in  winter.  The  presses 
are  connected  by  hose  through  holes  in  the  floor  (which 
is  also  supported  in  a  similar  manner  as  the  lower  one) 
with  the  casks  and  fermenting  vats  below,  so  that  any  of 
the  casks  on  the  second  or  first  floor  can  be  filled  directly 
from  the  press. 

The  process  I  have  followed  here  has  been,  to  ferment 
the  true  white-wine  grapes,  such  as  Chasselas  Fontaine- 
bleati  and  Violet.  Victoria  Chasselas,  Muscatell,  etc., 
when  stemmed  and  crushed,  for  about  twenty-four  hours 
on  the  skins,  then  press  them,  and  run  the  juice  into 
casks  in  the  second  story,  where  it  finishes  fermentation. 
The  average  temperature  there  is  about  sixty-live  to  sev- 
enty-five degrees. 


283  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

When  I  make  white  wine  from  Mission  and  Malvasia, 
as  I  have  had  to  do  here,  as  these  have  a  good  deal  of 
color  in  the  skins,  I  stem  and  crush  the  grapes,  and  then 
press  immediately,  but  very  lightly.  This  juice  is  run 
from  the  press  into  the  thousand-gallon  casks  on  the  sec- 
ond floor,  and  finishes  its  fermentation  there;  this  is 
generally  over  in  less  than  a  week.  The  remainder  of 
the  grapes  is  then  thrown  into  the  fermenting  vats,  also 
on  the  second  floor,  and  ferments  there  until  the  mass 
begins  to  cool  off,  being  stirred  and  thoroughly  mixed 
about  three  times  a  day,  so  as  to  have  an  even  tempera- 
ture in  all  parts  of  the  fluid.  It  has  generally  finished 
its  violent  fermentation  and  become  quiet  in  four  to  five 
days;  it  is  then  pressed,  and  the  young  wine  run  into 
the  casks  on  the  first  floor,  where  it  matures  rapidly,  and 
is  generally  ready  for  racking  in  a  few  weeks.  The  true 
red- wine  grapes,  such  as  Zinfandel,  Burgundy,  etc.,  are 
stemmed  and  crushed,  and  all  put  into  fermenting  vats 
in  the  second  story.  Many  take  the  first  juice  from  the 
Zinfandel  and  make  white  wine  from  it.  This  is  mostly 
done  to  obtain  deeper  color  in  the  red  wine,  but  our  vine- 
yards yield  color  enough,  and  I  think  it  deprives  the 
wine  of  its  best  qualities,  while  I  have  never  yet  seen  a 
white  Zinfandel  wine  which  I  could  call  first  class. 

The  whole  mass  is  stirred  and  turned  several  times 
every  day,  and  pressed  as  soon  as  the  must  has  lost  its 
sweetness  and  assumed  instead  the  bitter  taste  character- 
istic of  young  red  wines. 

The  grapes  should  be  thoroughly  ripe,  but  not  over 
ripe.  This  is  easily  tested  by  crushing  a  few  bunches, 
pressing  the  juice  through  a  cloth,  and  testing  it  with 
the  sacharometer  and  thermometer.  The  thermometer 
should  be  at  sixty  degrees  if  inserted  in  the  must.  The 
sacharometer  mostly  in  use  here  is  Balling's;  twenty-five 
degrees  of  Ballings'  is  about  equal  to  one  hundred  of  Oech- 
sle's,  or  one  to  four.  Each  two  degrees  of  Balling  will 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  x!87 

be  one  per  cent,  of  alcohol  in  fermented  and  clarified 
wine. 

Here  again  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  you  should 
know  the  material  from  which  you  make  wine.  The 
Ohasselas  varieties,  for  instance,  contain  but  about  three 
pro  mille  acid,  when  the  must  indicates  twenty-five 
on  Balling's  scale,  and  will  make  a  livelier  wine  when 
taken  if  they  show  but  twenty-two  or  twenty-three,  than 
if  allowed  to  go  up  to  twenty-five,  or  even  higher.  The 
Riesslings,  Sauvignon  Vert,  etc. ,  may  be  allowed  to  ripen 
to  twenty-five,  as  they  contain  more  acid,  although  they 
will  also  make  a  good  wine  if  taken  at  twenty-two  or 
twenty-three.  None  of  our  light  wines  ought  to  show 
higher  than  twenty-five,  except  perhaps  the  Zinfandel, 
which  contains  more  acid  than  any  other  Vinif era  I  know. 
It  must  be  very  ripe  to  come  up  to  twenty-five,  and  then 
contains  four  and  a  half  to  five  pro  mille  acid.  When  in 
that  stage,  many  of  its  berries  are  already  shrivelled,  as 
it  ripens  unevenly;  as  it  colors  early,  many  wine-mak- 
ers are  led  into  the  beliaf  that  it  is  ripe  enough,  and 
gather  it,  when  it  should  really  hang  a  week  longer.  If 
well  ripened,  on  good  soils,  it  makes  a  very  fine  claret, 
but  it  is  so  universally  grown  and  planted  in  all  locations, 
and  often  handled  so  ignorantly,  that  we  find  a  great  deal 
more  poor  than  good  Zinfandel.  But  can  we  wonder  at 
this,  when  a  paper  which  claims  to  be  the  leading  organ 
of  the  grape  growers,  advocates  ignorance  in  its  columns, 
says  that  chemistry  and  science  have  nothing  to  do  with 
wine  making,  and  do  more  harm  than  good  ? 

It  is  this  ignorance  among  the  great  mass  of  our  wine- 
makers  that  has  been  the  cause,  to  a  great  extent,  of  so 
much  poor  and  sour  wine.  The  idea  prevailed  that  the 
ripest  grapes  made  the  best  wine,  and  few  were  aware  of 
the  fact  that  there  is  a  limit,  a  time  when  each  variety 
should  be  taken,  when  the  sugar  and  acid  are  in  the 
proper  proportion,  and  that  at  this  period  fermentation 


288  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

will  commence  quickly,  and  go  through  perfectly,  if  other 
conditions  are  favorable.  But  take  the  Mission  or  Chas- 
selas  at  thirty,  or  even  above,  and  then  have  indifferent 
fermenting  rooms,  and  you  cannot  make  a  good,  sound, 
dry  wine;  but,  to  make  anything  out  of  it,  it  must  be 
fortified  with  brandy  to  make  sweet  wine.  The  great 
trouble  in  making  dry  wines  in  this  State  may  be  summed 
up  in  the  following  causes:  Varieties  of  grapes  which 
will  not  make  fine  wine  ;  gathering  and  working  the 
grapes  at  the  wrong  time;  imperfect  fermenting  vats  and 
rooms;  negligence  and  slovenliness  during  fermentation; 
and  improper  handling  afterwards. 

Two  of  the  leading  grapes,  those  which  produced  most 
abundantly,  were  the  Mission,  originated  and  first  distri- 
buted by  the  Jesuit  Fathers  of  the  Mission  St.  Gabriel,  and 
the  so-called  Black  Malvasia,  and  most  of  the  older  vine- 
yards were  largely  composed  of  these.  Neither  is  a  fine 
wine  grape ;  the  Mission  has  little  flavor,  but  developes 
a  great  deal  of  sugar  and  tannin.  Its  white  wine 
will,  with  age,  develop  a  certain  sherry-flavor,  but 
is  harsh,  heady,  and  heavy,  affecting  the  nerves  of 
those  who  drink  it  freely,  and  its  red  wine  has  only 
roughness,  while  it  lacks  flavor  and  that  agreeable 
acid  so  essential  in  good  claret.  The  Black  Malvasia  (so- 
called,  though  it  is  no  Malvasia)  is  a  large,  pulpy,  black 
grape,  with  a  heavy  bunch,  and  large,  oblong  berry.  It  is 
a  good  table  grape.  It  has  not  color  enough  to  be  worked 
alone  into  claret  or  port,  but  the  first  juice  is  made  into 
white  wine,  which  is  passable,  but  has  no  distinguishing 
qualities  or  fineness.  The  red  wine  is  said  to  make  about  as 
good  port,  in  quantity,  if  worked  into  it  the  first  season, 
as  has  as  yet  been  produced;  but  as  a  dry  wine,  though 
passable  the  first  year,  it  developes  a  very  disagreeable 
flavor  with  age,  and  contains  too  much  acid.  Most  of 
the  so-called  California  hocks  and  clarets  were  formerly 
made  of  these  two  grapes,  and  even  the  best  of  them 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  289 

were  not  choice  or  fine  wines.  Their  culture  should 
therefore  be  entirely  abandoned,  except,  perhaps,  for 
liqueur  wines,  and  even  for  these,  I  think  we  now  have 
better  varieties. 

I  have  already  alluded  to  picking  each  variety  at  its 
proper  time.  This  should  be  done  when  the  grape  is 
ripe  enough,  but  not  too  ripe.  This  time  is  when  it  con- 
tains sugar  enough  to  make  a  wine  varying  from  eleven 
to  twelve  per  cent,  of  alcohol,  or  when  the  sacharometer 
indicates  from  twenty-two  to  twenty-five  Balling,  and 
from  three  and  a  half  to  four  and  a  half  pro  mille  acid. 
It  will  then  make  a  lively  and  pleasant  wine,  agreeable  to 
the  palate,  and  of  good  bouquet,  as  wines  deficient  in 
acid  cannot  develop  bouquet.  This  will  necessitate  some 
experimenting  with  the  different  varieties,  but  a  little 
practice  with  the  tongue»will  soon  enable  any  man  of  or- 
dinary intelligence  to  make  a  close  guess,  and  the  instru- 
ments will  determine  positively.  No  doubt  we  can  also 
derive  great  benefit  from  blending  different  varieties  of 
grapes ;  for  instance,  the  Zinfandel  has  flavor  and  a 
sprightly  acid,  but  is  rather  thin  in  color  and  taste. 
The  Lenoir  will,  I  think,  supply  both  of  these  deficien- 
cies, and  I  hope  still  more  from  Norton's  Virginia  and 
Cynthiana.  Each  locality  will  have  its  own  special  varie- 
ties in  future,  which  it  will  produce  in  the  greatest  per- 
fection, and  which  are  suited  to  its  soil  and  climate.  It 
is  generally  believed  that  the  southern  part  of  the  State 
will  not  make  as  good  light,  dry  wines  as  the  north, 
while  it  will  excel  in  the  heavy,  sweet  wines.  While  I 
concede  the  latter  as  the  natural  consequence  of  a  longer, 
and  warmer  season,  which  will  develop  more  sugar  and 
body,  I  am  not  at  all  sure  of  the  former.  On  a  recent 
visit  to  the  south,  I  found  some  excellent  dry  wines 
made  from  the  Burger  and  Blaue  Elben,  by  Mr.  Rose 
and  others,  and  also  some  very  fine  wines  made  from 
mixed  white  grapes  in  several  cellars,  also  very  fair  clar- 
13 


290  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

ets.  The  Burger  does  not  ripen  perfectly  with  us,  leing 
a  tremendous  bearer,  and  late,  it  makes  a  rather  light, 
acid  wine,  of  a  negative  character.  At  the  south  it 
ripens  fully,  and  makes  a  fuller  wine,  with  pronounced 
"bouquet.  Why  cannot  other  varieties  be  picked  and 
worked  there  when  just  ripe  enough,  and  thus  make  good, 
dry,  sprightly  wine  from  them  ?  I  would  not  be  afraid 
to  try  it,  with  strong  hopes  of  entire  success. 

Imperfect  fermenting  vats  and  rooms  are  certainly  the 
cause  of  a  great  many  poor  wines.  I  would  have  the  fer- 
menting vats  rather  wide  and  low  than  high  and  narrow, 
as  they  generally  are  here.  Say  five  feet  high  and  six 
feet  wide,  or  still  wider.  They  are  here  generally  made 
of  red  wood,  which  makes  very  good  fermenting  vats, 
though  I  do  not  think  it  is  fit  for  casks  to  keep  wine  in, 
as  it  is  too  apt  to  leak.  A  ggneral  practice  here  is  to 
have  false  bottoms,  or  rather  tops  to  the  vats,  perforated 
with  holes,  to  hold  the  skins  and  pomace  tinder  the 
fluid  when  fermenting,  and  through  which  the  fluid  bub- 
bles constantly.  Experience  has  taught  me  to  discard 
these  altogether,  as  the  mass,  when  thrown  in,  will  re- 
main cooler  at  the  bottom  than  at  the  top,  where  it 
comes  in  contact  with  the  air.  The  consequence  is,  that 
fermentation  commences,  and  is  more  violent  at  the  top, 
where  it  often  is  at  nearly  blood  heat  when  it  is  yet 
cool  below.  My  practice  is,  to  press  the  pomace  down 
frequently  with  wooden  pestles,  and  mix  it  thoroughly 
with  the  fluid  below,  so  as  to  equalize  the  temperature  as 
much  as  possible,  when  I  will  have  a  thorough,  steady 
fermentation  in  the  whole  mass.  I  thus  avoid  that  un- 
pleasant, burnt  taste  generally  called  '/tank  taste,"  which 
is  found  in  so  many  of  our  clarets  especially,  and  fer- 
mentation has  never  been  stopped  or  interrupted  by  a 
slight  change  in  the  temperature,  as  is  the  case  in  many 
other  establishments. 

The  fermenting  room  should  be  so  constructed  that 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  291 

the  temperature  will  not  fluctuate  too  much.     The  cli- 
mate in  this   State  is  peculiar,  the  days  are  sometimes 
very  hot,  while  the  nights  are  nearly  always  cool.    Nearly 
all  of  the  fermenting  rooms  are  simply  board  sheds,  with 
only  one  thickness  of  boards  between  the  inner  and  outer 
atmosphere,  so  that  the  changes  inside  are  almost  as  sud- 
den as  those  outside.     This  should  not  be;  if  the  fer- 
menting room   cannot  be  built  of    stone,   it  should  at 
least  have  double  walls  of  boards,  with  the  intermediate 
space  filled  with  sawdust,  spent  tan,  or  other  non-con- 
ducting materials,  so  that  it  will  keep  as  even  a  tempera- 
ture as  possible.     Sudden  changes  interrupt  fermenta- 
tion, and  are  very  injurious.     Negligence  and  slovenli- 
ness during  the  whole  process  of  wine  making  has  a  great 
deal  to  do  with  a  poor  product.     Everything,  from  the 
boxes  in  which  the   grapes  are  picked  to  the  cask  in 
which  the  young  wine  is  to  perfect  itself,  should  be  clean; 
as  should  the  crusher,  press,  fermenting  vat,  and   the 
whole  building,  which  should  also  be  well  ventilated,  so 
that  the  air  is  pure.    I  have  seen  many  so-called  wineries, 
which  looked  more  like  slaughter  houses  than  the  cleanly 
establishments  in  which  wine,  the  noblest  fluid  which 
God  has  given  to  man,  is  to  be  made  and  perfected.     If 
mould  and  dirt  are  left  on  the  fermenting  vats  from  one 
year  to  the  other,  until  the  air  is  sour  and  fetid  with  the 
smell  of  decay,  how  can  we  expect  wine,  the  most  sus- 
ceptible liquid  that  we  can  handle,  to  taste  and  smell 
fresh  and  pure  ?     Before  using  the  vats  for   ferment- 
ing, they  should  all  be  washed  with  a  solution  of  sal  soda, 
and  the  floor  and  press-room  should  be  scrubbed  every 
few  days  during  wine  making.     Casks  can  easily  be  kept 
clean  and  pure  by  fumigating  with  sulphur,  when  empty, 
but  before  using  they  should  be  washed  to  free  them 
from  the  taste  and  smell  of  sulphur,  which  also  tends  to 
prevent  fermentation. 

Improper  handling  afterwards,  also   has  a  great  in- 


292  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

fluence  on  the  wine.  The  casks,  as  soon  as  fermen- 
tation has  ceased,  should  be  filled  up  to  the  bungs,  and 
clean  bungs  driven  in  lightly  at  first,  and  firmly  when  the 
wine  has  become  quite  still.  As  soon  as  clear,  wine  should 
be  racked  into  clean  casks,  as  described  in  the  proper 
place.  Smaller  casks  are  very  difficult  to  clean,  as  the 
lees  are  so  adhesive,  yet  it  is  important  that  they 
should  be  all  taken  out.  It  is  best  to  open  the  cask,  and 
brush  it  inside,  but  if  a  cooper  is  not  at  hand  to  do  this, 
they  may  be  cleaned  by  putting  a  small  chain  through  the 
bung-hole,  and  then  shaking  the  cask  well,  with  a  few 
buckets  of  clear,  pure  water;  this  should  be  repeated  until 
the  water  runs  out  clear.  Use  as  little  sulphur  as  possible; 
some  are  in  the  habit  of  sulphuring  strongly  every  time 
they  rack  or  ship  the  wine.  This  gives  an  unpleasant 
smell  and  taste,  and  such  sulphured  wine  is  apt  to  cause 
headache.  It  is  an  old  exploded  idea  that  the  lees  are 
the  mother  of  the  wine,  and  that  it  should  remain  on  them 
to  gain  strength.  The  lees  are  the  excrements  of  the 
wine,  and  the  sooner  they  are  separated  from  it,  the  better. 
Generally  the  young  wines  are  here  sold  to  the  merchant 
within  the  first  six  months.  Of  course  they  should  be 
racked  again  before  shipping,  and  if  not  sold,  they 
should  be  racked  again  the  second  time  in  March. 

I  am  aware  that  I  conflict  in  my  views  on  fermentation 
with  those  advanced  by  Mr.  Arpath  Haraszthy,  who  dis- 
courses upon  fermentation  at  every  meeting  of  the  State 
Viticultural  Convention,  and  is  considered  an  authority 
on  the  subject.  He  claims  that  the  finest  white  wines, 
such  as  Riessling,  etc.,  should  also  be  fermented  on  the 
skins,  putting  perforated  heads  on  top,  to  keep  down  the 
skins.  I  do  not  claim  to  be  an  authority,  nor  do  I  believe 
in  authorities.  We  are  all  seekers  after  truth,  and  each 
honest  opinion,  supported  by  successful  practice,  is  en- 
titled to  respect.  Practice  has  taught  me  that  white  wine, 
fermented  on  the  skins,  becomes  harsh  and  rough,  losing 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  293 

all  the  agreeable  smoothness  and  fineness  which  we  ad- 
mire in  fine  white  wines,  and  I  have  never  been  able  to 
find  as  fine  wines  made  by  Mr.  Haraszthy's  method,  as  I 
have  seen  from  those  who  make  their  wines  in  a  similar 
way  to  mine. 

WINE  MAKING  APPARATUS. 

Grapes  are  gathered  here  in  boxes  holding  about  forty 
pounds  each,  which  each  gatherer,  when  filled,  carries 
out  to  the  avenues  between  the  blocks,  from  where  they 
are  hauled  to  the  cellars  in  wagons.  Boxes  were  formerly 
made  very  loosely,  so  that  a  great  deal  of  juice  was  wasted, 
but  they  are  now  manufactured  with  bottoms  of  a  single 
board,  and  well  nailed,  so  that  there  is  but  little  leakage. 
The  crushers,  stemmers,  and  presses  in  the  smaller  estab- 
lishments are  similar  to  those  described  in  the  third  part 
of  the  book.  The  large  establishments,  however,  use 
crushers  and  stemmers,  as  well  as  various  kinds  of  hydrau- 
lic presses,  which  do  an  immense  amount  of  work,  with 
comparatively  few  hands,  and  do  it  in  a  very  thorough 
manner.  They  are  generally  run  by  steam  power,  and  will 
work  up  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  tons  of  grapes  per 
day,  if  run  to  their  full  capacity. 

Cooperage  of  all  dimensions  is  now  made  in  the  State, 
although  most  of  the  material  for  oak  casks  comes  from 
the  East  in  shooks  and  is  set  up  by  the  coopers  here,  as 
California  oak  is  too  brittle  and  coarse-grained  to  work  to 
advantage.  Casks  of  one  thousand  to  two  thousand  gal- 
lons are  worth  about  ten  cents  per  gallon.  The  casks  for 
shipping  East  are  generally  so-called  puncheons,  holding 
about  one  hundred  and  sixty  gallons,  and  are  much 
cheaper,  costing  about  three  dollars  and  fifty  cents  each. 

LIQUEUR  WINES. 

It  may  be  expected  that  I  should  say  something  about 
liqueur  wines,  which  form  a  considerable  part  of  the  pro- 


294  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

duct  of  the  State,  especially  of  the  southern  portions. 
They  may  be  divided  into  three  principal  classes,  Port, 
Sherry,  and  Angelica.  The  first  two  have  mostly  been 
made  from  the  Malvasia,  and  Mission  grapes,  as  the 
latter  develops  a  sherry  flavor  in  its  white  wine  when  it 
becomes  older;  the  last  is  chiefly  made  from  Muscat  of 
Alexandria.  As  I  have  never  made  them  to  any  extent, 
my  readers  must  not  expect  me  to  go  into  detail,  for  while 
I  am  willing  to  tell  all  I  know,  I  do  not  like  to  speak 
about  anything  of  which  I  do  not  know,  or  know  at  most 
simply  from  hearing.  Sherries  and  ports,  in  fact,  all 
three  of  these,  are  fortified  with  grape  brandy,  and  the 
first  two  cooked  or  heated  in  separate  rooms,  built  for  the 
purpose.  Angelica  is  made  by  adding  enough  grape  brandy 
to  the  sweet  must  to  arrest,  or  rather  prevent,  fermenta- 
tion, and  the  lees  and  other  impurities  precipitated  by 
an  addition  of  quick  lime,  which  clears  it  within  forty- 
eight  hours.  Sherries  are  made  from  white  wines,  or 
rather  the  first  run  of  the  Mission  grape,  as  the  object  here 
is  to  make  a  light-colored  wine  with  a  peculiar  flavor  and 
great  body.  Port  is  made  from  red  wine,  as  it  should 
contain,  besides  deep  color,  a  certain  sweetness  and 
alcoholic  strength,  a  large  amount  of  tannin.  I  do  not 
pretend  to  be  a  judge  of,  nor  an  admirer  of  these  wines, 
and  must  leave  it  to  others  who  are,  to  give  a  more  full 
description  of  them  and  the  methods  by  which  they  are 
made.  A  very  learned  essay  by  one  of  the  first  experts, 
Mr.  Pohndorff,  who  has  followed  the  business  in  Spain, 
and  described  the  process  of  making  and  maturing  natu- 
ral sherries,  impressed  me  with  the  idea  that  our  Ameri- 
can people  are  too  impatient  to  wait  ten  years  before  a 
sherry  can  be  fully  matured  and  sold,  and  seemed  to  me 
about  the  strongest  argument  against  making  it  here  in 
that  way,  which  I  have  ever  listened  to. 


AKD   WINE   MAKING.  295 

SPARKLING  WINES. 

There  is  at  present,  I  believe,  but  one  firm  in  the  State 
who  make  sparkling  wine  by  the  old  or  natural  process,  fer- 
menting in  the  bottles,  and  I  have  heard  many  conflicting 
opinions  as  to  the  success  they  meet  with.  While  some 
think  highly  of  the  Eclipse  champagne,  others  rate  it 
far  below  the  best  brands  of  French  champagnes,  but  I 
think  upon  the  whole,  it  meets  with  very  ready  sale. 
There  is  a  good  deal  of  sparkling  wine  made  in  the  quick 
or  artificial  way,  by  impregnation  with  carbonic  acid  gas, 
which  is  sold  much  cheaper,  and,  as  far  as  I  am  able  to 
judge,  is  a  very  healthy,  harmless,  and  enlivening  bev- 
erage. I  do  not  pretend  to  be  a  nice  judge  of  the  article, 
but  I  have  compared  some  of  the  f* Eclipse  Extra  Dry" 
with  carbonated  wine,  made  here,  and  especially  with 
some  made  in  New  York,  from  California  wine,  shipped 
there,  and  my  preference  was  for  the  last;  nor  have  I  ever 
felt  any  bad  effects  from  the  use  of  these  carbonated 
wines.  At  any  rate,  I  think  the  crusade  led  by  some  per- 
sons against  these  carbonated  wines,  to  petition  Congress  to 
impose  a  special  tax  on  them,  a  very  injudicious  measure. 
If  the  sparkling  wine  manufactured  by  them  is  really  so 
much  superior  to  carbonated  wine,  it  would  seem  to  need 
no  special  legislation  to  foster  and  protect  it. 

THE  MAKING  OF  BRANDY. 

Brandy-making  is  another  important  branch  of  Cali- 
fornia grape  industry.  To  show  how  important  it  is,  I 
need  only  mention  the  fact  that  one  firm  made  one  hun- 
dred and  fifteen  thousand  gallons  of  brandy  last  year, 
with  four  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  gallons  of  wine, 
and  that  all  this  brandy  is  already  disposed  of. 

While  I  am  no  admirer  of  distilled  liquors,  and  do  not 
claim  to  know  much  about  them,  yet  I  believe,  as  long 
as  they  are  consumed  to  the  extent  that  they  are  in  this 


296  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

country,  pure  grape  brandy  would  be  more  wholesome  to 
use  than  the  often  poisonous  and  adulterated  liquors  now 
sold  as  whiskies  and  brandies.  So  far,  most  of  the  brandy 
has  been  distilled  from  the  pomace  and  lees  of  wine, 
which,  as  connoisseurs  say,  will  not  make  as  smooth  and 
delicate  an  article  as  that  made  from  the  wine  of  certain 
varieties  of  grapes,  the  Folle  Blanche,  for  instance,  which 
is  the  great  Cognac  grape  of  France.  Yet  while  this  may 
be  the  case,  certain  manufacturers  have  already  gained  a 
name  for  their  brandies.  Gen.  Naglee  at  St.  Jose  has 
taken  great  pride  in  ageing  his  brandy,  and  it  ranks  very 
high.  Mr.  Geo.West,  of  Stockton,  has  produced  a  very 
delicately  flavored  and  fine  brandy  from  West's  Prolific, 
and  I  suppose  that  this  industry  will  perhaps  progress  to 
perfection  as  rapidly  as  the  wine  industry.  More  care  in 
its  manufacture,  and  better  material,  will  bring  better 
results  as  its  natural  consequence. 


CHAPTER    LVI. 

EXTENT   OF    GRAPE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

The  extent  of  grape  growing  in  the  State  can  hardly  be 
estimated,  as  there  are  no  official  data  at  hand  that  I  am 
aware  of.  The  planting  of  new  vineyards  progresses  at 
so  rapid  a  rate  that  it  is  difficult  for  any  one  to  even  ap- 
proximate to  it.  When  we  look  at  only  a  few  of  the 
largest  plantations,  we  may  form  an  idea  of  how  rapidly 
these  plantings  are  progressing. 

Ex-Governor  Leland  Stanford,  at  his  vineyards  at 
Vina,  found  seventy-five  acres  in  vines,  planted  by  his  pre- 
decessor, Mr.  Gerke,  to  which  were  added  one  thousand 
two  hundred  and  fifty  acres  of  new  plantations  in  1882,  and 
one  thousand  five  hundred  acres  last  spring,  and  I  thkJt 


AND    WISE   MAKING. 

the  intention  is  to  add  one  thousand  to  one  thousand  two 
hundred  acres  per  annum  for  several  years  to  come.  The 
Natoma  Water  Co.,  at  Folsom,  Sacramento  County,  had 
something  like  six  hundred  acres,  mostly  in  table  grapes, 
and  have  added  one  thousand  two  hundred  acres  last 
spring,  with  the  intention  of  adding  as  many  more  next 
spring,  for  which  the  plants  are  already  rooted  in  cutting 
beds.  Mr.  Horatio  P.  Livermore,  the  business  man- 
ager, is  a  very  intelligent  and  painstaking  gentleman, 
and  imported  many  of  the  choicest  wine  grapes  of  Spain 
and  Portugal  last  spring,  besides  growing  twenty  thou- 
sand Lenoir  for  their  own  planting.  Messrs,  Stern  & 
Rose,  at  San  Gabriel,  Los  Angeles  County,  have  seven 
hundred  and  fifty  acres  in  vines,  and  made  at  their  mam- 
moth  establishment  last  year,  four  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  gallons  of  wine,  and  one  hundred  and  fifteen 
thousand  gallons  of  brandy.  The  San  Gabriel  Wine  Co., 
Mr.  De  Barth  Shorb,  manager,  has  one  thousand  five 
hundred  acres  of  vineyards  surrounding  their  new  build- 
ings, one  of  which  has  a  capacity  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  by  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet,  and  the  other 
of  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  by  two  hundred  and 
sixteen  feet,  and  three  stories  high,  are  capable  of  work- 
ing up  two  hundred  tons  of  grapes  per  day.  Messrs, 
Kohler  and  Frohling,  the  pioneer  wine  makers  of  the 
State,  have  an  immense  establishment  at  Los  Angeles, 
where  they  make  mostly  sweet  wines  and  brandy,  and 
another  in  Sonoma  County,  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
acres  of  bearing  vineyards,  where  mostly  light  wines  are 
made,  and  three  large  cellars  in  San  Francisco.  Vine- 
yards of  from  two  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred 
and  fifty  acres  are  quite  frequent  all  over  the  State,  and 
Xapa  Valley  presents,  from  the  town  of  Xapa  up  to  Cal- 
istoga,  a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles,  an  area  of  al: 
continuous  vineyards.  These  extend  through  the  whole 
breadth  of  the  valley,  and  far  up  amon^r  the  slopes  of  the 


298  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

mountains,  wherever  a  spot  could  be  found  congenial  to 
the  vine,  and  not  too  difficult  to  reach.  Among  the 
leading  producers  in  this  beautiful  valley  are  G.  Groez- 
inger,  Yountville,  with  several  hundred  acres  in  bearing, 
H.  W.  Crabb,  Oakville,  three  hundred  and  fifty  acres, 
G.  Niebaum,  Kutherford,  Chas.  Krug,  Mrs.  J.  0.  Wein- 
berger, Wm.  Scheffler,  Beringer  Bros. ,  and  others.  The 
total  amount  of  wine  made  in  sixty -four  cellars  last  year 
in  Napa  County,  was  two  million  six  hundred  and  forty- 
five  thousand  one  hundred  gallons.  I  have  no  data  for 
Sonoma  County  for  that  year.  Its  product  in  1880  was 
estimated  by  the  commissioner  of  that  district,  Mr.  J.  de 
Turk,  one  of  the  heaviest  producers  and  wine  makers,  at 
two  million  one  hundred  and  eighty  thousand  gallons, 
and  the  number  of  acres  of  bearing  vines  at  seven  thou- 
sand, with  three  thousand  not  bearing.  Mr.  L.  J.  Eose, 
commissioner  of  the  Los  Angeles  district,  estimates  the 
yield  for  the  same  year  at  three  million  eight  hundred 
thousand  gallons  for  the  district,  and  the  value  of  it  over 
a  million  of  dollars.  Mr.  Arpad  Haraszthy,  President  of 
the  Board,  estimates  the  wine  yield  of  the  year  1880  at 
between  ten  and  twelve  million  gallons,  and  its  value  at 
three  million  three  hundred  and  twelve  thousand  five 
hundred  dollars.  Since  that  time,  immense  plantings 
have  been  made,  but  I  can  find  no  data  upon  which  to 
base  an  estimate  of  the  increased  yield.  As  the  general 
yield  of  the  crop  is  light  this  year,  it  may  be  safe  to  esti- 
mate it  at  about  the  same  as  in  1880,  though  it  should 
be  at  least  one-fourth  larger,  were  the  crop  the  same,  and 
should  we  have  as  abundant  a  crop  in  1883  as  in  1880, 
the  entire  production  of  the  State,  would  come  up  to 
twenty  million  gallons.  It  is  very  much  to  be  regretted 
that  we  have  no  later  estimates,  and  it  would  seem  that,  * 
if  they  could  be  made  in  1880,  they  could  be  made  in 
the  following  years.  Such,  however,  seems  not  to  be  the 
case,  although  the  efforts  of  Mr.  Gardner,  editor  of  the 


AND  WINE  MAKING.  299 

St.  Helena  "Star,"  who,  with  commendable  enterprise, 
gathers  a  full  report  of  the  product  of  Napa  County  each 
year,  shows  how  easily  it  might  be  done. 

During  the  last  few  years,  however,  grape  culture  has 
advanced  with  giant  strides,  stimulated,  no  doubt,  by 
the  gratifying  success  and  the  good  prices  obtained  for 
viticultural  products.  Here,  in  Napa  and  Sonoma  coun- 
ties, it  'would  seem,  indeed,  as  if  the  prices  paid  for 
grapes,  for  the  purpose  of  wine  making,  would  hardly 
allow  a  living  profit  to  the  wine  makers  and  dealers.  Last 
year  the  prices  ranged  from  twenty-five  dollars  per  ton, 
paid  for  Mission,  to  thirty-five  dollars  per  ton  for  Zin- 
fandel,  Riessling,  Chasselas,  and  other  finer  varieties,  and 
this  year  the  finer  varieties  seem  to  bring  the  same  price, 
while  Mission  and  Malvasia  have  gone  down  to  twenty 
dollars  per  ton,  unless  extra  well  ripened  and  heavy,  to 
fit  them  for  ports  and  sherries.  When  we  take  into  ac- 
count that  a  ton  of  grapes  generally  yields  about  one 
hundred  and  thirty  gallons,  and  that  the  young  wines  of 
last  year  have  not  generally  sold  at  over  twenty-eight 
cents  per  gallon,  at  an  average,  to  the  dealers  in  San 
Francisco.  I,  for  one,  can  not  see  how  the  wine  makers 
can  afford  present  prices,  and  make  any  profit.  That  it 
is  a  very  profitable  business  to  the  growers  is  apparent, 
if  we  figure  up  the  cost  of  establishing  a  vineyard  in  full 
bearing,  planted  with  resistant  roots,  to  make  it  perma- 
nent. This  may  be  estimated  as  follows: 

Preparing  land,  plowing,  harrowing,  and  rolling, 

per  acre $  5.00 

600  Riparia  vines,  including  freight- ._  -..  -       -25.00 

Marking  and  planting ---     5.00 

Cultivation,  first  year 10.00 

Cultivation,  second  year . 10.00 

Grafting,  including  cost  of  cions -  —     5. 00 

Staking  and  tieing --  10.00 

Cultivation  and  pruning,  third  year 20.00 

Cultivation  and  pruning,  fourth  year .  20.00 

$100.00 


300  AMEEICAtf   GEAPE   GROWIKG 

This  year,  the  fourth,  the  vineyard  ought  to  bear,  say 
three  tons  to  the  acre;  calculating  at  the  present  prices 
for  choice  grapes,  this  would  pay  for  all  the  labor  up  to 
this  time,  and  leave  the  vineyard  free  of  debt  to  its  pro- 
prietor, except  original  cost  of  land,  and  interest  on  cap- 
ital; this  can  not  be  calculated,  because  land  for  vine- 
yards in*  these  counties  brings  all  kinds  of  prices.  Good 
vineyard  lands  in  the  neighborhood  of  St.  Helena  and 
Rutherford  may  now  be  estimated  at  two  hundred  and 
fifty  dollars  per  acre,  while  nearly  as  good  locations  can 
be  had,  but  not  exactly  in  the  "grape  boom/'  at  fifty 
dollars  per  acre.  Perhaps  it  would  be  safe  to  average 
good  vineyard  land  at  one  hundred  dollars  per  acre, 
without  improvements.  Bearing  vineyards,  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  St.  Helena,  have  been  sold  as  high  as  one 
thousand  dollars  per  acre,  but  this  is,  in  my  estimation, 
a  fictitious  value,  based  on  the  high  prices  for  grapes  now, 
which  may  not  continue.  In  fact,  I  believe  there  will 
be  a  decline,  and  that  very  soon.  But  if  choice  wine 
grapes  come  down  even  to  twenty  dollars  per  ton,  they 
would  still  bring  a  handsome  profit  to  the  grower,  esti- 
mating the  cost  of  cultivation  at  twenty  dollars  per  acre, 
and  the  product  at  four  tons  to  the  acre. 

I  have  given  these  figures  mostly  for  my  Eastern 
friends,  who  may,  like  myself,  wish  to  make  California 
their  home.  That  they  admit  of  very  wide  variations  I 
freely  acknowledge.  They  are  based,  however,  upon  a 
liberal  estimate  of  costs,  in  establishing  a  vineyard  on 
resistant  roots,  so  as  to  be  safe  from  phylloxera.  If  you 
want  to  risk  the  cuttings  of  the  varieties  of  Vinifera, 
and  save  the  expense  of  grafting,  the  whole  estimate  can 
be  cut  down  to  at  least  seventy  dollars.  But  this  I  would 
consider  poor  policy,  and  I  would  not  adopt  it. 

I  speak  with  reference  to  but  one  part  of  the  State. 
There  are  new  settlements  opening  out  every  month, 
every  year,  wherever  cheaper  lands  can  be  had,  and  where 


AND   WINE  MAKING.  301 

the  beginner,  with  limited  means  and  a  few  years  of  hard 
labor,  may  find  a  home  at  much  less  cost.  These,  of 
course,  are  districts  at  present  not  reached  by  railroads, 
but  which  may  be  opened  in  a  few  years.  If  a  man 
seeks  a  home  which  will  furnish  all  the  facilities  at  once, 
where  all  the  industries  are  already  established,  and  he 
has  a  sure  market  for  his  products  every  day,  he  has  to 
pay  for  all  these  advantages.  There  are  lands  to  be  had, 
however,  on  a  still  different  plan,  which  many  adopt. 
Large  landholders  are  parcelling  out  their  lands  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  State;  they  furnish  the  land,  while 
the  cultivator  furnishes  the  labor  and  the  plants  for  the 
vineyard,  works  it  for  three  years,  and  at  the  end  of  that 
time  they  divide,  the  owner  taking  one  half  of  the  vine- 
yards, the  other  half  going  to  the  planter.  I  have  heard 
of  many  such  arrangements  in  the  neighborhood  of  Ana- 
heim, Los  Angeles  Co.,  which  worked  to  the  mutual 
satisfaction  of  both  parties.  It  is  comparatively  easy 
there  to  plant  and  cultivate  a  vineyard,  as  the  soil  is 
sandy  and  very  readily  worked.  But  the  land  must  be 
irrigated  at  least  once  a  year,  and  the  irrigating  privi- 
leges, etc.,  may  bring  the  cost  to  about  the  same  as  where 
the  land  is  purchased.  Grapes  are  cheaper  there  also, 
bringing  only  from  eighteen  to  twenty-five  dollars  per 
ton.  But  the  yield  is  also  greater,  being  from  seven  to 
eight  tons  per  acre.  These  vineyards  produce  at  least 
a  year  earlier  than  those  do  without  irrigation.  In  the 
neighborhood  of  Fresno,  where  I  spent  a  day  this  fall,  I 
have  seen  vineyards,  planted  eighteen  months  ago,  but 
irrigated  once  a  year,  produce  three  to  four  tons  to  the 
acre  this  fall;  in  the  third  year  they  will  produce  as  much 
as  ours  do  here  the  fifth  season.  But  still  I  would  not 
like  to  live  there,  as  the  climate  is  very  hot  in  summer, 
cold  in  winter,  and  is  also  considered  unhealthy. 

Grapes  are  generally  sold  to  the  wine  makers  at  the 
above  prices,  who  manufacture  them  into  wines,  which 


302  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

are  sold  to  the  dealers  in  the  city  when  they  are  from 
three  to  six  months  old.  The  average  price  paid  for 
young  wines  from  the  cellar  has  been  from  twenty-two 
to  thirty  cents  the  gallon  for  round  lots,  including  all  in 
the  cellar,  varying  somewhat  with  the  quality  and  the 
proportion  of  wines  of  the  choicest  varieties.  Perhaps 
twenty-five  cents  would  be  a  fair  average  estimate  for 
cellars  containing  one  half  of  Mission  and  Malvasia. 
The  dealers  mature  and  blend  the  wines  to  suit  their 
trade,  and  sell  them,  when  matured,  to  their  customers 
throughout  the  State  and  further  East.  The  consump- 
tion of  our  wines  here,  especially  the  better  claret,  among 
those  who  formerly  consumed  imported  wines  altogether, 
is  increasing  very  fast,  as  they  become  aware  that  they 
can  obtain  a  better  wine  at  less  price  at  home  than  they 
receive  from  abroad;  and  it  would  increase  still  faster  if 
the  nefarious  practice  of  selling  honest  and  good  Cali- 
fornia wines  under  foreign  labels  was  less  general.  But 
the  old  saying,  "  far  fetched  and  dear  bought,"  is  as 
true  with  many  of  our  would-be  aristocracy  as  it  is  any- 
where ;  they  will  readily  pay  treble  the  price  for  an  article, 
however  inferior  it  may  be,  if  it  is  only  shipped  thou- 
sands of  miles,  and  carries  a  foreign  label.  A  great  many 
unscrupuloiis  dealers  take  advantage  of  this  tendency, 
and  use  French  or  Ehenish  labels  for  California  wines, 
thus  obtaining  higher  prices  than  they  would  get  for 
them  under  their  true  character,  and  robbing  our  home 
product  of  its  proper  appreciation. 

THE  FUTURE  OF  THE  INDUSTRY  IN  CALIFORNIA. 

Although  speculations  on  the  future  are  generally  idle 
and  premature,  still  the  question,  will  "grape-growing 
pay  in  the  future?"  is  ever-recurring,  and  I  can 
only  give  surmises.  I  have  a  deep  and  abiding  faith  in 
the  ultimate  success  of  the  industry,  for  the  follovring 
reasons : 


AND  WINE  MAKING. 


1.  We  have  the  finest  climate  in  the  world,  and  can 
always  make  a  good  product,  even  in  the  most  unfavora- 
ble seasons. 

2.  We  have  remunerative  crops  every  year,  if  we  avoid 
frosty  locations,    though   not    always   equally  good   or 
abundant.     Entire  failures  are  unknown. 

3.  We  can  make  good  wines,  and  produce  table  grapes 
and  raisins  every  year.    This  has  been  fully  demonstrated 
by  the  crude  beginnings  of  the  past,  which  have  already 
produced  wines  superior  to  the  average  of  European  im- 
portations, and  inferior  to  but  few. 

4.  We  can  raise  grapes  and  make  wine  cheaper  than 
any  other  nation  or  climate,  for  reasons  given  above;  and 
if  present  prices  drop  down  one-third,  or  even  more,  the 
producer  will  still  make  a  fair  profit. 

5.  We  have  the  world  for  a  market.     We  can  satisfy 
every  taste,  as  soon  as  our  vineyards  and  wine-making 
establishments  are  skilfully  handled.     We  can  produce 
light,  agreeable  dry  wines,,  red  and  white,  as  well  as  all 
the  heavy  ports,  sherries,  and  sweet  wines,  and  we  can 
produce  them  at  less  cost  than  any  other  country,  be- 
cause we  have  no  failures.   All  we  need  is,  to  have  our  pro- 
duct  fully  known  and   appreciated,  to   make   it    sell. 

That  we  shall  have  many  reverses  yet,  that  there  will 
be  thousands  who  have  commenced  grape-growing  with 
high  hopes,  and  with  over  sanguine  expectations,  who  will 
drop  out  of  the  ranks  in  a  few  years,  because  they  lack  the 
necessary  intelligence  and  perseverance,  I  fully  believe. 
But  this  is  as  it  should  be,  and  will  be,  all  the  world  over. 
It  is  the  old,  old  tale  of  the  "survival  of  the  fittest," 
which  will  repeat  itself  here,  and  in  this  calling,  as  in 
every  other  country  and  business;  and  those  who  pei  se- 
vere and  are  fit  for  the  task,  will  reap  the  benefits.  Poor 
wines  will  be  a  drug  in  the  markets  in  a  very  few  years, 
and  none  but  roally  good  wines  will  find  a  ready  sale. 


304  AMERICAN   GRAPE   GROWING 

Let  it  be  so;  we  can  spare  the  poor  wines,  and  those  who 
make  them;  their  loss  will  be  our  gain. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

I  have  come  to  the  end  of  my  task.  That  it  can,  at  the 
best,  be  but  imperfectly  performed,  treating  of  such  an 
industry  in  a  necessarily  condensed  form,  no  one  knows 
better  than  myself.  We  have  an  immense  field  before 
us,  where  there  is  yet  room  for  millions  of  willing  and 
intelligent  heads  and  hands.  With  the  high  price  of 
labor  now  paid  (one  dollar  per  day  and  board  is  about  the 
average),  thousands  of  intelligent,  industrious  laborers 
can  find  lucrative  employment,  and  no  one  who  is  sober 
and  industrious  need  fear  but  he  can  make  a  living  here. 
The  many  vineyards  planted  by  capitalists  as  a  good 
investment  of  their  money,  when  they  come  into  bearing, 
will  need  the  supervision  of  skilful  men,  and  there  will 
be  in  a  few  years  a  great  field  for  intelligent  men,  more 
so  even  than  there  is  now,  and  all  such  should  be  wel- 
comed as  desirable  acquisitions.  We  have  a  State  Board 
of  Viticulture,  created  by  act  of  Legislature,  with  an 
appropriation  of  ten  thousand  dollars,  annually,  who  have 
already  collected  and  distributed  much  valuable  informa- 
tion, held  two  annual  conventions  of  grape  growers,  and 
exhibitions  of  viticultural  products,  and  who  could  accom- 
plish still  more  good,  did  its  presiding  officers  freely 
tolerate  diiferent  views  from  their  own  and  en  courage  the 
full  and  free  expression  of  the  opinions  and  experience  of 
all  practical  men. 

The  Agricultural  Department  of  our  State  University, 
under  the  able  management  of  Prof.  Hilgard,  has  already 
rendered  efficient  aid,  by  analyses  of  soil,  experiments  in 
fermentation,  researches  in  regard  to  Phylloxera,  and 
resistant  stocks,  lectures  and  reports,  etc.,  and  could  do 
still  more,  were  its  means  sufficient  to  do  all  the  faculty 
would  like  to  accomplish. 


AND   WINE   MAKING.  305 

In  conclusion,  I  wish  to  tender  acknowledgments  for 
the  information  gained  from  the  reports  of  our  State  Viti- 
cultural  Commission,  the  pamphlets  issued  by  the  State 
University,  and  to  the  press  throughout  the  State.  Also 
I  would  return  my  grateful  thanks  for  the  kindness  and 
courtesy  shown  me  by  my  brother  grape  growers  through- 
out the  State,  who  have  welcomed  the  stranger  in  their 
midst,  and  freely  imparted  the  knowledge  and  experience 
gathered  through  long  years  of  arduous  labors;  especially 
the  Messrs.  Crabb,  Groezinger,  Krug,  Weinberger,  and 
others  in  Napa  Valley;  to  Messrs.  Dresel,  Gundlach, 
Winkel,  Hill,  and  others  of  Sonoma;  to  Messrs.  West,  of 
Stockton  ;  Mr.  Blowers,  of  Woodland  ;  Mr.  Lefranc,  of 
San  Jose ;  Messrs.  Kohler,  Bundscheu,  Lachman,  Schil- 
ling, and  others,  of  San  Francisco,  for  much  of  the  infor- 
mation contained  in  these  pages.  My  effort  is  somewhat 
desultory,  and  must  needs  be,  with  so  vast  a  task  be- 
fore me.  If  it  serves  but  to  give  a  little  more  insight, 
and  impart  some  useful  knowledge  to  new  beginners,  I 
shall  have  accomplished  my  object. 


INDEX. 


Acidiraeter.  TwitchelPs. .  201  -217 

^Estivalis  Class... 54 

Arbors,  Vines  Upon 93 

Barney,  Hon.  Hiram 185 

Baskets  for  Packing 122 

Bateham,  M.  B.,  Grapes  and  Wine 

in  Ohio 135 

Birds  in  the  Vineyard 114 

Border  of  Vines 109 

Bottling  Wine .211 

Burr's,  John,  Seedlings 191 

California,  Grape  Culture  in  Fres- 
no Co 162 

"  Grape  Culture  in  Napa 

Co 166 

4k            Grape  Culture  in  Sono- 
ma Co     163 

"  Phylloxera  Problem  in..  186 

Cambre,  Eugene,  on  Graf  ting 25 

Campbell,  Geo.  W.,  Grape  Culture 

'   inSouthern  Ohio 127 

Carrying  Vat 203 

Cashin,   T.    D.,  Grape   Culture   in 

Maryland 174 

Oashin's  Trellis 170 

Caska 199 

"     Preparing 206 

Catawba  Must  Gallized 227 

Cjllar  Furniture 193 

Classes  of  Grapes,  ^Estivalis 54 

•'     "        "      Cordifolia.  ......  55 

"     "        '•      Labrusca 35 

"      "       "      Riparia... 65 

C  Monies  for  Grape  Growing 23S 

Cordi  folia  Class    65 

Cornelius,  Mr.,  Method  of  Grafting.  25 
Cost  of  hstablishing  a  Vineyard. .  .191 
Crabb,  H:  W.,  Viticulture  in  Napa 

Co.,  Cal ....169 

Crooked  Lake,  N.  Y.,  Grapes  .123-142 

Cultivation  of  Vineyard ...  87 

Cuttings,  Grafted , 26 

Discarded  Labrusca  Varieties 53 

"        ^stivalis  Varieties 63 

Diseases  of  the  Vine 432 

"  "        "  "Greeley  Rot  ".140 

"  Mildew  on  Kel- 

ley's  Island..  140 
of  Wine 211 

307 


Drainage  on  Kelley's  Island 138 

Draining  the  Soil 31 

Dresel,  Julius,  Viticulture  in  Sono- 
ma Valley,  Cal .Ki6 

Egg  Harbor,  N.  J.,  Wines 190 

Eckel,  Rudolph,  Grape  Growing  in 

W.Texas 159 

Eisen,  Gustaf,  Culture  of  the  Grape 

in  California 162 

Engelmann,  Dr.,  on  Native  Grapes  13 

Fermentation 233 

"  Changes  Caused  by. 222 

the  Second 210 

Fermenting  on  the  Husks. .. 207 

Frosts,  Protection  from 115 

Fruit,  Thinning 95-118 

Funnel  for  Wine 200 

Gall,  Dr.,  On  Wine  Making 218 

Gallizing  214 

"  Gallonizing  " 214 

Gathering  and  Marketing  Fruit ....  121 
kl         Grapes  for  Wine. . .  .124-202 

Girdling  the  Vine 117 

Golden  Willow  for  Tying 91 

Grafting,  Advantages  of 22 

"        Methods 23 

"         Up9n  Cuttings ..26 

Grape  and  Fruit  Colonies 238 

"     Cholera  lOt 

Grape  Culture  in  California.162-106-169 
"  and  Wine  Making  on 

Crooked  Lake,  N.Y.142 

In  Maryland 174 

•'  In  Missouri 180 

"  In  Southern  Ohio 127 

"  In  Southern  Texas. .  .145 

"  In  Tennessee 182 

"  In  Western  Texas, ...  159 

"  On  Kelley's  Island,  O.138 

Grapes,  Classification  of..     .      ....  11 

European 12 

Natives  Species  of 12-151 

Scissors 120 

Time  to  Gather  for  Wine.  .202 

What  to  Plant 31 

When  Ripe.  .  121 

Grape-Sugar 233 

Gray  Rot l:>4 

Horizontal  Arm  Training 90-101 


308 


INDEX. 


House  Cellar  for  Wine 195 

Husks  and  Lees— Uses  for 212 

Hybrids  of  Labrusca 35 

Inarching  the  Vine 24 

Insects,  Injurious  to  the  Grape 105 

Aphis 112 

Beetles Ill 

"       Bees 113 

"       Camel  Cricket    113 

"       Cut-worm Ill 

"       Devil's  Horse 113 

"       Grape-Vine  Fidia 112 

"       Grape-Vine  Root  Louse 105' 

"       Grape-Vine  Sphinx 112 

"       Grasshopper 112 

*'       Lady  Bug 113 

"       Leaf -Folders 93-111 

"       Mantis 113 

Phylloxera 105 

"       Plant  Louse 112 

Rear-Horse 113 

"       Rocky  Mountain  Locust.  ..112 
"       Root- Louse  of  the  Grape.  .105 

Thrips 112 

Useful 113 

Wasps 113 

Iowa— White  Elk  Vineyards 184 

Jaeger's,  Hermann,  Seedlings 64 

Keeping  Grapes 122 

Kelley's  Island, O.,Grape  Culture  on.138 

Keuka  Lake,  N.  Y.,  Grapes  at 142 

Labrusca  Class 35 

Langendoerfor's,  F.,  Seedlings  —  62 

Laterals,  Treatment  of 93 

Layering  to  Fill  Vacancies 97 

Leaves,  Removal  of 118 

Location  and  Soil  for  Vineyard 28 

Madinger's,  Jacob,  Seedlings 53 

Manuring  the  Vine 97 

Maryland,  Grape  Culture  in 174 

Mildew 103 

Miller,  Sam.,  on  Early  Winter ,191 

Mill  For  Grapes    199 

Missouri,  Grape  Culture  in  180 

Mucnch,  Hon.  F.,  on  Grape  Culture 

in  Missouri 180 

Must,  Its  Change  Into  Wine 219 

"     Normal 215-228 

a     of  American  Grapes 224 

Must-Scale 200-216 

Oechsles'  Must  Scale .200-216 

Ohio,    Grape    Culture    and    Wine- 
Making  in..,  ...135 


Ohio,  Southern,  Grape  Culture  in.. 127 

Old  Vines,  Renewal  of 119 

Onderdonk,  G.,  on  Grape  Growing 

in  Southern  Texas  145 
"          on    The    Grapes     of 

Texas 151 

"         Memoranda  on  Grape.153 
"          on  The  Vineyard  in 

Texas 154 

Packages  for  Marketing 122 

Phylloxera  Problem  in  California..  .186 

Pinching  the  Laterals 93 

"         Young  Shoots  92 

Planchon,  Prof.,  on  Phylloxera 106 

Planting  the  Vine  81 

Pleasant  Valley  Wine  Co 143 

Poeschel    &    Scherer,    Success    in 

Grafting 22 

Press  for  Grapes 193 

Propagation,  by  Cuttings 19 

"  by  Grafting 22 

"  by  Inarching 24 

by  Layers 21 

"  by  Seeds 16 

Protection  in  Winter 115 

Pruning  and  Training 87 

Pruning  Saw 120 

Pruning  Shears 119 

Racking  the  Wine 238 

Raisins  in  California 172 

Riparia  Class 65 

Ripeness,  How  Known  121 

Ripening,  To  Hasten 117 

Ricketts'.  J.  II.,  His  Seedlings 51 

Riley,  Prof.  C.V.,  on  Phylloxera.105-107 

Rommell's,  Jacob,  Seedlings 65-70 

Rulander  Wine,  Experiments  With. 226 

Saccharometer 200-216 

Seedling  Vines 17 

Seeds,  Sowing 17 

Soil  and  Location  for  Vineyard 23 

Soil,  Preparation  of 30 

Spotted  or  Brown  Rot ,101 

Sugar  Used  in  Wine  Making 233 

Tennessee,    Grape    Culture    Near 

Chattanooga 183 

Texas,  Grape  Growing  in  Southern.  145 
"          "  "        in  Western..  159 

"      Native  Grapes  of 151 

Thinning  the  Fruit 95-113 

Training  as  Border 100 

"        Horizontal  Arm 101 

"  "         Spiral  , 173 


INDEX. 


333 


Training  Horizontal  Zig  Zag 175 

in  Stool  Form 99 

iu  Western  N.  Y 100 

"        on  Arbors  and  Walls 9s 

to  Stakes 99 

Trellis,  Cashiii'a 176 

To  Build 85 

Tubs  in  Wine  Making .200 

Tying  Material ...  91 

Urbana  Wine  Co 142 

Vacancies,  To  Fill 97 

Vallet'e,  Jno.,  Method  of  Grafting    24 

Vat  for  Carryi ng  Grapes .203 

Vats  for  Fermenting 199 

VARIETIES  OP  GRAPES— Synonyms  in 
Italics. 


Alvey  

Amber 

Aminia 

Ariadne 

Bacchus 

Baldwin  Lenoir. 
Barry 


70 
43 
75 
74 
63 
43 


Beauty  ......................  44 

Black  Defiance  ..............  44-133 

Black  Eagle  ................  44-133 

Black  July  ..................  63-146 

Black  July  (Berckmans1)  .......  154 

Black  Spanish  ...........  61-145-161 

Black  Spanish  in  Texas  .......  159 

Btoomsburg  ...............  .  .  77 

Brighton  .......................  46 

Brighton  in  Ohio..;  ...........  130 

Bnllace  .......................  15 

Bush  ........................  151 

Catawba  ......................  35 

Catawissa  Bloom  _________  ......  77 

Christine  .....................  43 

-Clinton  .......................  76 

Columbia  County  ...............  77 

Concord  .......................  35 

Concord  in  Ohio  .............  128 

Cottage  ......................    53 

Creveling  .......  ..............  77 

Cunningham  .  .  ................  61 

Cunningham  (Berckmans')  .....  153 

Cynthiana  .....................  54 

Delaware  ......................  77 

Delaware  in  Ohio  ..............  131 

Devereux  .......................  61 

Duchess  ...............  ........  47 

D.iun  ...  ...153 


Early  Champion 44  . 

Early  Dawn 46 

Early  Winter 191 

Elvira 66 

Elvira  in  Ohio.... 131 

Essex  36 

Eva 45 

Far  West 64 

Frost 14 

Gei-man  Grape 77 

Goethe 3(5 

Golden  Delaware 175 

Hagar 63 

Harwood. 153-157 

Heath    77 

Herbcmont 58 

Herbemont  in  Texas 157 

HerbemonVs  Madeira 5S 

Hermann 62 

Highland 51 

Italian  Wine 77 

Ives 39 

Jack 61 

Jacques 61 

Jefferson 51-133 

Lady 45 

Lady  in  Ohio 129 

Lady  Washington 51-133 

Laura  Beverly 77 

Lenoir 61-145 

Lenoir  (Bcrckmans') 154 

Lincoln 63 

Lindley ,.... 39 

Long 61 

Mabel 134 

Martha 39 

Massasoit 39 

Missouri  Riesling    74 

Moore's  Early 46 

Moore's  Early  in  Ohio 130 

Muscadine 15 

Mustang. .151 

Naomi 75 

Neosho 63-65 

Niagara 46-132 

Noah 74 

Northern  Fox 13 

Norton's  Seedling 57 

Norton's  Virginia 57 

Pearl  73 

Perkins 40 

Pizarro 74 

Planet...  ..  53 


310 


IKDEX. 


Pocklington , . .  .47-132 

Prentiss 48-133 

Seedling  No.  1 51 

No.  2 51 

Purity 78-130 

Eacine. 65 

EedEwer 54 

Ricketts1  No.      1  52 

No.    11   52 

"         No.  502  53 

No.  250 52 

"         No.  331 58 

No.  231 75 

"         No.  234 75 

No.  413 75 

Riverside 14 

Rogers'  Hybrids  No.    1 36 

"  4k         No.    4 43 

No.    7 39 

"  "         No.  39 43 

No.  41 36 

"         No.  43 43 

Rommeirs  No.  14 73 

No  20 73 

Rulander 62 

Salem 40 

Scuppernong 78 

Southern  JSstivalis 152 

Southern  Fox 15 

Storm  Kin? 53 

Summer 13 

Taylor 76 

Telegraph 43 

Traminer 77 

Transparent 70 

Triumph 45 

Uhland 73 

Virginia  Seedling 57 

Warren 58 

Warren  in  Texas 157 

Warrentoi  58 

White  Norton,  Balsiger's 65 

White  Norton,  Langendoerfer's  65 


Wilder  43 

Willis 134 

Winter '. 14 

Worden's  Seedling 130 

Varieties,  Choice  of 31 

"          Difficult  to  Classify 77 

for  Different  Localities.79  80 

Vine.  Diseases  of 102 

Vines  to  Plant    81 

"     Treatment  the  First  Summer.  84 

"  "         "  Second      "       87 

"  Third        "        91 

"  "         "  Fourth      "       96 

Vineyard,  Cost  of 191 

Cultivation 87 

"         in  Texas 154 

"         Location  and  Soil 28 

Vitis  sestivalis 13 

"    candicans 151 

"    cordifoHa 14 

"    Labrusca 13 

"    riparia 14 

"    rupestris 151-160 

"    vinifera 12 

"    vnlpina .15-78 

White  Elk  Vineyards 184 

Wine,  After  Treatment 210 

'•      Bottling 211 

"      Cellar 195 

"         "    Substitute  for 198 

"      Diseases  of 211 

"      Flat  and  Turbid 211 

"      Making  195 

"  "        Gall's   and    Petiol's 

Method 213 

"  "        on  Crooked  Lake 143 

Made  Easy 286 

"      at  Egg  Harbor,  N .  J 190 

"      Dry. 222 

"      Sweet 222 

"      White  or  Red 205 

Winter  Protection 115 

Wires  for  Trellis 85 


CONTENTS  OF 

American  Vines  in  France 

Diseases  and  Insects 

Frosts 

Grafting  the  Vines 

Extent  of  Grape  Growing  in  Cal. . 

Marketing  Grapes 

Nursery,  The 

Raisin  Making 

Stocks,  Species  for 

"      Propagation  of 


THE  ADDED  CHAPTERS. 
.270     Training  the  Vines 
.267 

.277 
.262 
.296 
.278 
.244 
279 
.240 


Vineyard,  The 244 

Cultivation  of 258 

"        Preparation  of  Ground  . .  245 
"        Restoring  an  Infested. .  .275 
Selection  of  Varieties  for  247 

Wine  Making  in  California 284 

'k         "       Apparatus  for 293 

Wines,  Liqueur  ...   293 

Sparkling S95 


Gardening  for  Young  and  Old. 

THE 

CULTIVATION  OF  GARDEN  VEGETABLES  IN  THE 
FARM  GARDEN. 

By  JOSEPH    HARRIS,  M.S., 

Author  of  "Walks  and  Talks  on  the.  Farm,"   "Harrison  the  Pig,"   "Talks  on 
Manures,'1'1  etc 


CONTENTS. 

Introduction.— An  Old  and  a  New  Garden. -Gardening  for  Boys.--How  to 
Begin.— Preparing  the  Soil.— Killing  the  Weeds.— About  High  Farming.— Com- 
petition in  Crops.— The  Manure  Question.— The  Implements  Needed.-Start- 
ing  Plants  in  the  House  or  in  the  Hot-bed.- The  Window-box.- Making  the 
Hot  bed.-Cold  Frames.— Insects.— Tlie  Use  of  Poisons.-.The  Care  of  Poisons. 
—The  Cultivation  of  Vegetables  in  the  Farm  Garden.— The  Cultivation  of 
Flowers. 

ILLLUSTRATED. 

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